The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Lucas, Ignition, Charging, Electrical => Topic started by: muskrat on 13.01. 2014 19:10
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Manosound raised the question about a poll to see how many of us have converted to 12 volt systems.
If you have a bike on each system (1 on 6 and 1 on 12) vote for your favorite and reply to the post with your thoughts.
Sorry to jump in Richard, I've never started a poll so I thought I'd better see how it's done. *smile*
Cheers
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I first converted to 12 volt on my racer (1992) so I could run electronic ignition. I had a total loss system (no charging). I saw the results (trophy's) almost straight away. Years later after retiring from racing the '51's mag was playing up so I put the racers ignition on her and used a converting reg. Now the racer is on the road as my cafe all 3 of my BSA's are 12 volt.
Safety is a good feature. The horn doesn't just go beep, it goes GET OUT OF MY WAY. *whistle*
Cheers
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Good plan, and the results will be interesting!
I'm a committed 12v person, whether alternator (late B31 and Oilfields converted using simple rectifier/regulator options and/or upgraded stators) or dynamo (AMC twins and A10). To begin with I retained my A at 6v, but gave in a while back and went 12v when she needed a battery.
All with DVR2s, courtesy of Manormike. No probs, but I live in the relative back of beyond and don't do traffic much, so higher cut-in speeds don't matter. Decent size batteries in all cases, wet ones for me, ranging from 8amp hours to about 12 depending on space.
One nice thing is the ability to use heated grips on a dynamo bike on the open road, if headlight kept down to 35W halogen and if original thick dynamo windings retained, when there are 80W available all the time at cruising speeds.
No way back for me, unless I lived in a town. Which will never happen unless/until senility steals the decision-making faculties.
Cheers, Bill
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I have converted both my A10's and my s/arm B33 to 12v. Std generaters with DVR2's. The A10's both have Manortech belt drive conversions.
The better lighting is an advantage but I dont do a lot of night riding on my old bikes anymore, the main advantage is being able to buy globes easily plus there is a lot wider range of batteries available in 12v.
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staying with 6v
S
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12 Volt for me also.. Trevinoz restored my old Gen rewinding it to 12 Volt Neg to Earth at my request,
coupled to a DVR2 .. 12 Volt globes are available at any servo or auto accessory outlet.
& I use a 12 Volt trickle charger which I swap from bike to bike to keep the battery's in tip top condition. *smile*
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Well, this isn't exactly what I meant, since it won't return the results as raw number. Nevertheless, mine is 6V.
What I meant was something like that which is available here: http://pollcode.com/ . Just going to this site to see what I meant won't be a problem, but I didn't want to take the chance of sending people off into some malware site for my lack of knowledge.
Richard L.
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Richard
Did you see the poll question/answer at the head of the OP.
It has the response totals to each question
S
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Scotty,
Thanks. Too much hurry. I missed that.
Richard L.
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Here in rural Oz it doesn't matter because you will get killed by suicidal kangaroos at night time. No night riding here since animal lovers have decided that 50 million kangas are endangered!
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perhaps this needs widening to include magneto v coil as that's usually part of the equation.
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Is that for real about no night riding? Perhaps you could argue that the roos are unlikely to be attracted to a dim 6V headlight.
Richard L.
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Is that for real about no night riding? Perhaps you could argue that the roos are unlikely to be attracted to a dim 6V headlight.
Richard L.
My word they are... you cant even light a cigarette with a match @ night without risking being mugged by them.. or the drop bears... *help*
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You have problems with drop bears as well Wozza, their a damn nuisance over here. Something should be done about them.
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I've stayed with 6V on both of my bikes. I'm a purist when I possibly can be. No offense to 12 volters, just my perspective....... (Oh, and I don't ride at night!) *smile*
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Hi everyone , mines coverted to 12v .I didn't think much about at the time I'd been off bikes for some years and just thought 12v would be easier to get bulbs etc for. Also as I was starting from basically a box of bits I was able to pick up info from bike mags and the BSAOC forum and then fit as I got to the electrics .I fitted a Hawker reg and I think He rewound the dynamo as well and used his beltdrive conversion and have had no probs in 8 yrs other than a slight drop in charge rate last year due I suspect to the belt either picking up some oil or needing adjustment,I'll sort that in the next month or so .One of the best benefits ,for me ,was being able to use LED bulbs from our Mr gooff and again I'll be upgrading my head light bulb from him shortly. Be interesting to hear how many are "converted " best wishes BobH.
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Someones got to ask, what the hells a drop bear ?? and aren't you allowed to shoot roos anymore ?? regards BobH
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My experience with 6V, fitted halogen, 10W pilot for day riding & 35W for night = both light and charging working fine.
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http://australianmuseum.net.au/Drop-Bear
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The world-wide search for the biggest BSers is officially ended.
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Hej
I'm running standard 6v and magnet with no problems - but have been considering 12v conversion with dynamo belt drive as well - as I would like to put LED indicators on the bike (anyone with tips and tricks about that?) and of course getting bulps would also be easier...
Joergen
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After some thought I voted for twelve although I run both, 12 volt for Eclectronic ignition on the Rocket but won't be converting the six volt Flash though.
On balance it's something that can be done to improve the bike safety without altering the look of the bike
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I have 6v, also with halogen lights (35/35, 21/5), but apart from a battery to engine case earth for the generator, I have no battery to frame-earth connection but run good (10A) earth wire to all services. Tail/brake light is nice and bright, but in ambient (streetlight) areas, I have to check with 'hand-over' if the headlight is on..... *conf*
The new aftermarket horn also scares the crap outta me. ...when I accidentally knock it *eek*
When I collect my young fella from the airport, I wait out the back where there's a bushland reserve, and last time I coulda sworn I saw one (D.B) run out of the bushes and across the tarmac ...if it got into the landing gear it could end up anywhere *eek*
They're tenacious critters...do anything for a drop..!!
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Methinks I agree with Richards assumption, regards BobH.
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Methinks I agree with Richards assumption, regards BobH.
You blokes must be talking about that Musky bugger... *whistle*
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Yeah clicked my vote.
Happy to stay with mag and 6v. Keep things simple. Nice bright headlight too, only problem being the lens - dip shows up the mascot on my front guard just lovely, high beam gets me in trouble down the way at Stansted. Quiet squeaky cheap aftermarket horn though.
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Pretty happy with the 6v setup, certainly after installing the dynamo belt drive on the SA. Will keep the plunger to 6v also.
But then again, I'm a kind of nostalgic person.... ;)
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I'm also 6 Volt however I've fitted a couple of 12V Cree LED driving lights by using a magic box I found on eBay which allows 12V items to be used with 6V systems. It was designed to run 12V radios and the like on old US cars. I also fitted a 6V halogen side light and some red 6V LED's to the rear. All helped by using a dynamo belt drive to increase charging.
Peter
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staying with 6v
S
Care to share your thoughts on why?
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Having now received votes from an astounding 5% of the membership, I believe we can say with complete confidence that there is a clear and definitive preference or prevalence of 6V systems on our bikes. *conf* *whistle*
Richard L.
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I,m still on 6 volts, never ride at night now, and only fair weather adventures.
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Billy,
Did you vote at the top of page one of this topic?
Ricahrd L.
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Having now received votes from an astounding 5% of the membership, I believe we can say with complete confidence that there is a clear and definitive preference or prevalence of 6V systems on our bikes. *conf* *whistle*
Richard L.
I don't think that necessarily follows. Need to know what the 5% of this forums membership is compared to the total number of bikes still around?
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Having now received votes from an astounding 5% of the membership, I believe we can say with complete confidence that there is a clear and definitive preference or prevalence of 6V systems on our bikes. *conf* *whistle*
Richard L.
I don't think that necessarily follows. Need to know what the 5% of this forums membership is compared to the total number of bikes still around?
...on "our" bikes. [Again, *whistle*]
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I voted for 6v but have to eat lots of carrots before venturing out at night....
I'l try 12v on my B31 project and see how that goes, but as the dynamo is gear driven I will not be able to speed the dynamo up, but on the other hand the engine will most ljkely get a good thrashing at all times.......
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Gave up with 6V after seeing the beam being blown to one side in a very strong wind one dark night.
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I am surprised really. 12v can be achieved without any outward signs. They must be making 6v heated grips now!
Cheers
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I am surprised really. 12v can be achieved without any outward signs. They must be making 6v heated grips now!
Cheers
Same as 12V but must have them wired so they only switch on one at a time! *wave*
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Gave up with 6V after seeing the beam being blown to one side in a very strong wind one dark night.
*lol*
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Gave up with 6V after seeing the beam being blown to one side in a very strong wind one dark night.
Not so bad if it comes back to centre after the wind drops off......??? :!
I've lost track of the benefits- (which I'm sure have been covered)
Is "60W"@12V actually brighter than 60"W" @ 6V? The way I understand it is the genny is still arbitrarily ~60W/6Vx10A, so @ 12V there is still ~60W (12V x 5A)
Benefits being less voltage drop, which on 6v, can be rectified with thicker wire and availability and wattage selection of 12v bulbs, but will not higher wattage work the system harder.....?
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genny is still arbitrarily ~60W/6Vx10A (http://genny is still arbitrarily ~60W/6Vx10A)
Not quite sure that's right duTch, what you quote is what the regulator allows, The dynamo voltage varies with it's revs and is often quoted as 12 volts or more (depends on individual dynamo)
I read 18 volts on mine when testing.
Also 12 allows better bulbs to be used (halogen bulbs can be had for 6 volt but for BPF they do alter the beam)
Battery comes into this as well, if you have a good battery then the lights should not dim even if he dynamo fails to deliver 6 or 12
(will keep calling it a dynamo - generator )
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yeah Bill, I think that kind've what I meant, which reminds me that I think Musky(?) said a 12v reg will do the job.....I think I need to reread that...all a bit heady *conf*
Guess one day when I'm bored, I'll test the 'dynie' output-( is that by connecting D+F to + and body to - on the meter...???)
FTR- I have been using a 6V 35/35 halogen in a H4 Hella glass, and have a 35/35 halogen BPF in a 'Lucas' glass which I haven't road tested yet.
Don't want this pickle, just wanna....
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I'm not sure of the "laws" but I don't think DC voltage works the same as AC, where if you double the voltage, you halve the amperage. I converted my '61 to 12v pos earth and noticed that I blew an inline 5 amp fuse I had installed, at night, with the lights on, when I pressed the horn button. I checked my Alltette horn and it was drawing nearly nine amps. I adjusted the horn as best I could and although I could change the sound, I could not reduce the amperage. I then swapped it to my '54 Golden Flash (still 6v), and the horn drew 4 amps. My solution was to put in a 10amp fuse, no problem now. So in my case a doubling of the voltage, doubled the current drawn. I'm sure someone out there can explain this phenoma.
My reason for converting iin the first place was that my regulator was boiling my battery, so I wanted to use a Boyer regulator and my dealer suggested I change to 12v, brighter lights, easier access to bulbs etc. Can't say if it's so much better.
Clive
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Hi all, I'm on 6v positive earth, the day my dvr2 'll need replacement, i'll probably go for for 12V, just to see what happens..
Denis
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Can't say if it's so much better.
I think the bulbs are better Clive, but again difficult to compare due to variables, my 70s Mini did not have anywhere as good lights as my present Focus.
I think (but stand to be corrected) that the laws are the same for direct and alternating current - ye canna change the laws o phiysics Jim
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hi Denis, i'm not sure if all dvr2's are the same but in case it makes a difference to your plans my dvr2 can be configured to be 6v positive earth or 12v positive earth so i can convert to 12v without having to buy another one.
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With AC, a little thing called power factor comes into play which determines the current draw.
However, all of our bikes are DC whether generator or alternator equipped
Trev..
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Hi Musky, I think its a great concept this here poll. But I am afraid I may have messed it up a little. You ask at the beginning for those who have both 12v and 6v systems to respond to the poll. I only have the 6v system and I was sucked in and replied... and I fear others may be guilty of the same... and perhaps even some more (seemingly) enlightened 12 volters will have short circuited the purity of the poll as well.
Now the real issue with the poll outcome is... you look like having a mix of responders... owners of 6v 12v and both. How you evaluate that across a forum of "mixed" voltage owners I am not sure....
I recon that ya total numbers at the end of each line will give a great general overview. Pure mathematical excellence in the poll regarding the number of forum members is irrelevant to the outcomes.
Yep... I am a dull 6v owner and likely to stay that way as I build a second bike. Far too many drop bears here for night riding.
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I think everybody should get out more often!
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Hi KiwiGF,
Yes , that's right, my dvr2 is for both 6 or 12. It's for positive or negative earth that it makes a difference. So as for changing from 6 to 12 V you then only need a 12V battery, 12V lightbulbs and hope your dynamo won't notice?
Thx, Denis
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hi denis, yep your dynamo wont notice i reckon albeit there are posts on this forum saying otherwise eg some over heating, theres a wire on the dvr2 that needs adding/changing to make it 12v. It does mean the battery wont start charging until the engine hits more rpm though, compared to when its only required to make 6v.
A 6v horn should sound louder and still work on 12v by all accounts!
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The fact you say you have belt drive means that the probability is that you have an increase in dynamo speed, Most if not all kits are made this way. The DVR2 belt drive is faster than the SRM one.
this will reduce the engine speed to balance out the load .
You really cant beat (my thoughts ) 12 volt -VE earth. You can then fit normal LED stop/tail bulb for a couple of pounds from ebay without the complexity or expense of ones from, Goff. You can get lower powered 35 watt halogen H4 bulbs (if you dont want to use 50 watt ones) so you can fit any of the standard round 7" front car lights. I use a Hella which gives a good beam. Try getting a 6 volt bulb if your fails on the way to Germany or Wales come to that.
If you want to go to electronic ignition then no problem they mostly work on 12 volt -ve earth too. Fitting GPS, phone chargers or any other extra in the future will be no problem. just my two penneth.
Dave.
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Warmshed, I could not have put it better myself. I agree with all that you have said.
John
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The fact you say you have belt drive means that the probability is that you have an increase in dynamo speed, Most if not all kits are made this way. The DVR2 belt drive is faster than the SRM one.
this will reduce the engine speed to balance out the load .
You really cant beat (my thoughts ) 12 volt -VE earth. You can then fit normal LED stop/tail bulb for a couple of pounds from ebay without the complexity or expense of ones from, Goff. You can get lower powered 35 watt halogen H4 bulbs (if you dont want to use 50 watt ones) so you can fit any of the standard round 7" front car lights. I use a Hella which gives a good beam. Try getting a 6 volt bulb if your fails on the way to Germany or Wales come to that.
If you want to go to electronic ignition then no problem they mostly work on 12 volt -ve earth too. Fitting GPS, phone chargers or any other extra in the future will be no problem. just my two penneth.
Dave.
Totally agree with going 12V but I am not aware of any particular issue with +ve earth for powering GPS and phones etc. As long as they are connected through some connector or similar mounting hardware, it should be possible to wire them accordingly to work with +ve earth. Only issue I see could be with electronic ignition if it is "grounded" through the engine/frame earth. 12V LED bulbs are readily available but the ones I have used are polarity sensitive. Not sure if all LED's are polarity sensitive though.
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Can't comment on drop bears and such beasts of the night because I've never met (that sort) of nocturnal predator, nor a 'roo! But I will say as one who does ride in the dark a lot, I won't be going back to 6v. Maybe it's just my eyesight, but I find a decent 12v set-up really is better.
If I didn't ride at night I'd probably just have an ancient duff battery, for that 'period look' doncha know, and not bother much about a dynamo. That's a common enough approach here in France, but it is a very limiting factor. Rain, dual carriageways, fog . . . etc.
And to Ethelred's 'mag v coil/alternator' point . . . on an A you'd almost certainly go 12v to get the electronic options if you wanted to do without the mag. On things designed with 6v alternators and coil ignition as original you might persevere at 6v for 'originality' (even if of the near-invisible sort), but the reality is that 12v with proper rectifier/regulator solid state boxes is better (than AC/DC switches with excess spaghetti hanging off the back to 'manage' the alternator, or a zener diode to waste the excess) if you actually want to go anywhere - and get back again.
Biased? Who? Me?
Cheers, Bill
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Well.... after the SA's magneto packed up again *angry* I have changed my mind, and just ordered a Pazon ignition and a 12v conversion kit. But the plunger's definitely staying on 6v! (for now..... *conf*)
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Well.... after the SA's magneto packed up again *angry*
Who rewound your magneto?
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Well here's for the Luddite tendency...
I ride an old BSA coz it's like a time machine. I get out on the lanes round here and ride for miles, day and night. The lanes and B roads haven't much changed and I could be riding along in the 1950s. Kicking it to start it, buggering about with points and magnetos, running on straight 40 oil, peering into the darkness, it's all part of the trip. I have installed a solid state regulator and a hi-tech battery, but neither of those affect the sensual pleasure of the old-fashioned ride. I could see better and probably have less breakdowns if I modernised, but then I could have bought a pretend old bike like a modern Bonnie if I were that way inclined.
To each his own; your bike - your money. I'm just a incurable 6volt romantic with these machines and common-sense has nothing to do with it.
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If I'm honest I changed to 12v simply 'coz I felt it would be easier to get bulbs etc. I don't at this time ride at night but that may change . I certainly rode at night in my youth , no point in going to London with all the fun awaiting and arriving half way through the day , no, ride through the night get there at sparrow fart time and enjoy never seemed to notice the lack of light ,was that simply youth or was that we just did not have an alternative back then ,regards BobH
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I stayed on 6V because I had a lovely fresh magneto and dynamo to work with. And changing just seems to substitute one set of potential problems for another. I am running solid state rectifier and LED lights to the rear however.
Problem with sourcing 6v bulbs duly noted. But I've got two filaments at the front and two 'bulbs' at the back so I reckon I'll always get home with some kind of illumination.
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[/quote]
Totally agree with going 12V but I am not aware of any particular issue with +ve earth for powering GPS and phones etc. As long as they are connected through some connector or similar mounting hardware, it should be possible to wire them accordingly to work with +ve earth. Only issue I see could be with electronic ignition if it is "grounded" through the engine/frame earth. 12V LED bulbs are readily available but the ones I have used are polarity sensitive. Not sure if all LED's are polarity sensitive though.
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Keith, most LED bulbs are polarity sensitive. They are normally all made as -Ve earth which is why the bulbs via Goff (good supplier) are more expensive, he makes them for people with +ve earth, they are rarely available from most other sources, certainly all the cheaper ones are available only as -ve earth.
The majority of electronic ignitions are supplied as -ve earth, you will limit your choice if you go +ve earth.
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Just curious, but is there any electrical advantage/disadvantage between positive and negative earth (apologies for being a bit off topic)
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This is a great question and I am still trying to figure out what part of it is most important and why, based on what I've just read. Apparently, battery corrosion is less when the positve terminal is earthed. Also, it appears that spark is better when it jumps from the electrode to earth. Then (again, I just read this), our magnetos send opposite polarity spark to the cylinders, so this aspect might not matter. (Groily or other magneto mavins will please correct me if I've read that wrong or it does not apply apply to K2F.).
I put this stuff out there so I can be slapped-about with corrections and learn thereby.
Richard L.
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Heard you should swop plugs over as one side deposit conductor material and the other erodes its? Also, it was something to do with the way current was thought to flow. Historically it was from +ve to -ve but more recently thought to be the other way, who knows?
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Would you all believe that 6V bulbs are readily available from India and are cheap as chips.
I bought about 30 for myself and others and the landed price came to somewhere between A$2 - A$3 each.
They are motorcycle pre-focus type (filaments in the right position) and can also be had in 12V.
Trev.
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On the pos/neg polarity of sparks, if you've got a single, negative sparks are preferable - for being stronger - because electrons like going from the centre electrode to the earth one if they can. But not an option we get with a twin mag, as one spark is always going to be positive. Folk say you should swap the plugs round now and again to compensate, but have to say I never do. The plugs in my A (NGKs as it happens) have been in there for 30K+ miles now, and you'd have to be a lot smarter than me to know which had run pos and which neg. They both look good as new.
Just a throwaway line, but I reckon a lot of plug trouble is actually symptomatic of other issues with the mag (or the carb). (But I agree some plugs do prematurely fail for no obvious reason.)
On the pos/neg earth Q for the electrical system generally etc, I really dunno. 'They' said years ago, and the 'continentals' followed it, that negative earth avoided corrosion of bodywork on cars, and didn't I read once that Rolls Royce were always Neg earth? But frankly, a lot of cars just rusted away whatever you did after they'd abandoned chassis. None of my bikes ever has (rusted away), despite terrible neglect, and I run pos earth, except on a couple of things with electronic ignition conceived for neg earth. I don't really think it makes a lot of odds.
But I'm sorry your mag's died again Morris - that's depressing. They shouldn't die like that, they really shouldn't!
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The good news with LEDs is they are quite robust and connecting them up the wrong way wont harm them, they are polarity sensitive in as much as they only work one way but all that is necessary is to reverse the connection
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Only trouble is some lamp holders are connected to earth so you cant reverse the wiring. I see some LED fittings (though rare), have diodes fitted inside them so you can fit them to either polarity
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LED +ve earth bulbs are also available from:
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/online-shop-for-led-bulbs-and-light-boards-etc.php
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Only trouble is some lamp holders are connected to earth so you cant reverse the wiring
True
have diodes fitted inside them so you can fit them to either polarity
Ah a diode in a Light Emitting Diode, wonder if they just double them up wired up each way so one will always work - obvious but still clever
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But I'm sorry your mag's died again Morris - that's depressing. They shouldn't die like that, they really shouldn't!
Agree. That's why it's going to be revived and be reused on the plunger!
The swingarm's magneto is still as was when I bought the bike. A wile ago the right plug refused to spark, so I took it part and found a dirty carbon coated slipring. Cleaned it up, renewed the brushes, but now it started to develop the same symptoms again.
When taking it apart I found that he who did the last overhaul didn't do a good job, so I'll be sending it to someone who knows what he's doing.
The swingarm is going to be converted to electronic sparking, mainly because I will be using it as a daily runner, and also a bit as an experiment because I want to know if it will behave any better.
Thanks for your kind words of condolence....
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True
have diodes fitted inside them so you can fit them to either polarity
Ah a diode in a Light Emitting Diode, wonder if they just double them up wired up each way so one will always work - obvious but still clever
Actually the polarity insensitive ones employ four small diodes (in a bridge) to steer the current to the LED(s) in the correct direction. A small version of the familiar alternator rectifier, but tiny and only cost a few pennies/cents/sou.
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Glad you're going to revive the mag on your plunger Morris, and be interested how you get on with the new box of clever tricks. If the mag has got a mucky slipring again, then maybe the brush quality is the problem, as there are a lot out there that are too soft and leave deposits, despite lots of comments from unhappy owners that you'd think would deter people from selling them. The brushes must not 'write' like a pencil on paper, but should leave only faint traces. There have also been some pretty horrible sliprings out there over the years, and pattern HT pick-ups that leak from brand new, so I'm sure when you have the thing sorted out properly it will fine again! Good luck.
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This is a great question and I am still trying to figure out what part of it is most important and why, based on what I've just read. Apparently, battery corrosion is less when the positve terminal is earthed. Also, it appears that spark is better when it jumps from the electrode to earth. Then (again, I just read this), our magnetos send opposite polarity spark to the cylinders, so this aspect might not matter. (Groily or other magneto mavins will please correct me if I've read that wrong or it does not apply apply to K2F.).
I put this stuff out there so I can be slapped-about with corrections and learn thereby.
Richard L.
It all goes back to steel hulled ships used in WW II.
They discovered that you could use eletrodes connected to the ships batteries to protect the hulls in place of the big chunks of zinc formally used.
Thus leaving more zinc for important things, like brass buttons for generals.
Post WW II some clot in the auto electricial trade decided that running + earth would stop cars & bikes rusting and they managed to convince every one that what works in full contact highly conductive salt water would also hold for partial contact less conductive rainwater & condensation.
Proper metallurgical research into galvanic corrosion proved this to be rubbish in the early 50's but the auto industry persisted with it .
there are some highly esoteric reasons why neg earth is better than pos earth but thr primary reason was to be consistent with domestic electricity.
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I changed to 12 volt some time ago with the original dynamo, DV2 regulator, also running an SRM dynamo belt conversion for a better output at lower revs. I will stay with 12volt as the electric starter requires 12 volt to work, need the electric start even having had a new right hip joint replaced 9 weeks ago!!
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G'day Rich. What size and type of battery are you using?
The 12 volters are catching up. *fight*
Cheers
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Good Morning Old Chap
I am using a 15amp per hour SVR battery, the two side tabs on the battery tray have to be bent flat to allow it to go in, also the seat may touch the top, depending on how much it has bent, a couple of washers to raise the front works just fine. I hope to post a picture if I remember how
Richard
C:\Users\Richard\Desktop\IMG_0195.JPG
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lets try again
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Good choice. That'll crank her over quite well.
Cheers
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G'day Rich. What size and type of battery are you using?
The 12 volters are catching up. *fight*
Cheers
I guess the 6 volters need to be more enlightened? *whistle*
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It was cold at 07,00 hours this am. Frosty even. It was still cold at midday. Light enough not to need everything on by about 07,45 hours - Hot Hands are very good!
Tomorrow will be the same, but maybe wet. Same early start for a full day's riding with other loonies. Hot Hands will be good again. They'll actually need their mulled wine when we stop to warm their hands up. I'll just enjoy mine. 12v? No competition!
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I haven't voted, as am only running 6V, which works fine so long as I keep up a tail wind to blow the light in front, have to slow down occasionally let it catch up.
A couple of years ago, I took a bunch of genny bits, (sorry, dyny bits) to Les McKitterick the now-retired legendary auto sparky, and asked him about converting to 12v, he just looked at me and asked 'why ? '. At that time I didn't know enough to have a case, so left it go....
I just took the bits and made up one that works and when it claps out, I'll consider the options that I'm learning from this discussion *smile* (still none the wiser *eek*).
It all goes back to steel hulled ships used in WW II.
They discovered that you could use electrodes connected to the ships
A few years ago (2005), I did some work at a new 400+ metre long wharf at the end of the river, and 4 foot steel piles were used, exposed part wrapped with lanolin lagging covered with fancy tar/poly stuff from top down to low water mark only.....this had me curious when/how they were going to finish the job.... *conf*
One day a mega transformer turned up- to cut the story shortish, turns out it runs I think a high voltage/low amps DC through the piles and stops corrosion, the guy assured me the more corrosive the (electrolyte) water, the better it works.... more *conf*... but can't remember the polarity- sorry !
He also reckoned it keeps the sharks at bay...(no pun intended).. *????*
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Staying with 6v, keeping everything original.
That said I'm hoping the mag and dynamo don't pack up.
Tom *problem*
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Had a frightening experience tonight. When coming back by car from the supermarket, I nearly drove in on a couple of bikers coming from the opposite side.
I had to shift to the opposite lane due to some roadworks, when I saw a couple of dim lights which I thought where two pushbikes coming towards me.
I thought they where still far away so time enough as it was just a short stretch of roadworks, but then it struck me that they where coming in far to quickly to be pushbikes, so I hit the brakes and went back in lane just in time. It was two blokes on two old bikes (couldn't see the marque) with headlights barely stronger than a candle, and when they passed me I saw in my rearview mirror two very faint rearlights disappear in the dark....
Moral of the story; 6 or 12V, just make sure your light is strong enough so you'll be recognized as a motorised driver!
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12v for me, the DVR2 regs are excellent! :)
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Well here's for the Luddite tendency...
I ride an old BSA coz it's like a time machine. I get out on the lanes round here and ride for miles, day and night. The lanes and B roads haven't much changed and I could be riding along in the 1950s. Kicking it to start it, buggering about with points and magnetos, running on straight 40 oil, peering into the darkness, it's all part of the trip. I have installed a solid state regulator and a hi-tech battery, but neither of those affect the sensual pleasure of the old-fashioned ride. I could see better and probably have less breakdowns if I modernised, but then I could have bought a pretend old bike like a modern Bonnie if I were that way inclined.
To each his own; your bike - your money. I'm just a incurable 6volt romantic with these machines and common-sense has nothing to do with it.
What a magnificent statement Ethelred *ex*
FWIW my A7 is 6 volt and the lights work OK, although I don't intentionally ride it at night. Way too much wildlife (mostly small brained Kangaroos) out here in the scrub.
I didn't vote on the poll as the A10 SR will be 12volt, and my votes would be one each way. The electrics need to be rebuilt/replaced, so the upgrade will take no extra cost or effort
Cheers TC
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perhaps the question should be - do you have six or twelve volt eyes *eek*
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Gentlemen.
FWIW I have one of each, 12v on the A10, and 6v on the B31. I found that the most worthwhile mods are a DVR2 and a headlight relay inside the shell. There's a considerable volt drop in those thin wires to and from the dipswitch. Both headlights are bright and I can see where I'm going. That's the main thing, after all.
Regards
Tim.
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^^^
the most worthwhile mods are a DVR2 and a headlight relay
Good tip about using a relay. And 6V with halogen bulbs is giving good lights. I'd see the main reason for going 12V would be the addition of electronic ignition.
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12V also allows the use of LED's and readily available replacement bulbs. Also the use of HID headlamps and this type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281363715688?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
ATB
Keith
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Conversely when I wired mine on 6v I paid particular attention to wire dimensions and joints. Apart from the disparity between the headlamp position and reflector causing the dip to be too low and the high to be up in the sky it’s certainly bright enough. I’d bought relays but have seen no reason to fit them to date. Conversely on the H1 which is of course 12v, despite paying a lot of attention to the connectors when I put the original loom back in whenever someone approaches from the rear at night I find myself riding in my own shadow.
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A good byproduct of converting to 12 volts is, for the same load you draw half the current. This means half the volt drop due to resistance of cables and connections. This comes free.
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Why not both 6V and 12V!
I haven't seen anybody else using this kind product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301173896517?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have bought one and it seems to work perfectly, so I will keep the 6V battery and use 12V for lighting etc.
Have to "flash" for negative earth since this device is not isolated and have common minus, negative earth makes it easier to use LED bulbs.
An advantage as I have read in this/other threads is that with 6V the dynamo provides charge at lower RPMs compared to 12V.
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"An advantage as I have read in this/other threads is that with 6V the dynamo provides charge at lower RPMs compared to 12V."
Are you saying the unit allows the 6V dynamo to charge at lower revs than a 12V dynamo?
Or 6V dynamo will out put more at lower revs compared to a 12V one?
Keith
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A 6v dynamo, in standard trim, is capable of producing 20v quite easily. The dynamo spins slightly quicker than the engine (about 10% quicker if I remember correctly) so, at tickover speed most dynamos deliver somewhere between 6 and 7 volts but, depending on the type of regulator you use, you may need slightly over 7 volts from the dynamo to charge a 6v battery. The faster the dynamo spins the higher the voltage - generally. If you use a standard 6v dynamo with the standard gearing it will not deliver enough voltage to charge a 12v battery until about 2000 or even 2500 r.p.m. You can buy a belt kit so that the dynamo spins faster but, if your dynamo is old and has been the victim of vibration the pegs and bearing housing will be worn, so spinning it at a higher r.p.m. might not be desirable if the armature is not well balanced. However, many people use this set-up and are perfectly happy. Alternatively you can have a dynamo rebuilt with a 12v armature and 12v field coil and the dynamo will produce about 12v at about 1000 r.p.m. i.e no need to fit a belt kit but the dynamo conversion might cost about £160.
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I have a rigid 650..the cases are 51...no idea when any of the rest went out the door...gear box case is 49 and frame 48..
using a 6 volt dynamo podtronics 12v reg wassel ignition 10 amphr doorbell battery...and indicators...I have changed all lights to LED switching any on does not wiggle the ammeter needle...I have a horn from a late model landrover...it buries the needle but is SO LOUD... I have fitted a digi voltmeter on my handlebar ..it gives me real time on my dynamo..and when shut off ..battery voltage..i use an LED pilot light in my headlight normal around town running ..the dynamo keeps the dry cell at 12.7v
the wassel allows dynamic timing with a light and degree wheel...easily adjustable to 1 degree...
12 volt means easy access to bulbs horns ...and whatevers...I also use a navman when I have to...
I,m getting a magneto rebuilt...as I have some concerns about riding on the dynamo...as I don't think it was ever made for that....once cut out is engagaed..my dynamo is always making 13.8 v I don't know if it il do that continually...
originally...the wassel ign came up on ebay for cheap...and my last maggy rebuild took nearly a year...
if the magneto doesn't work as well as the wassel...I would like to fit a Kubota type alternator on the end of my E3L...like the sportster guys do with their delco generators...
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6V with positive earth is good originality, and for a bike used for show and summer fun.
Problems with 6V: Heavy ware on contactors, more difficult to get 6V bulbs and GEL batteries etc.
Low voltage and moisture are not good friends.
Hard to get proper lighting beam out of Headlamp bulb (Pre Focus) 6 Volt, 30/24 Watt, even with new reflector
You can get 6V LED +VE, but they are still new and in development…. Or 6V halogen bulbs, but they draw a lot of amp.
12V with negative earth is good for an everyday and practical running a bike, you can easily get electric parts and gadgets like GPS, H4 halogen headlights, flashers, relays, LED bulbs etc.
Going the 12V route with the Prince of darkness (Lucas) dynamo is a problematic route.
Fitting a 12V armature, field coil + 12V electronic regulator. There is the issue with the thin wires in the armature.
Stepping up voltage with a 12V regulator on a 6 Volt dynamo is stressing the matter even further.
The more bullet proof way is an 12V Alton generator. That can feed high output main beam all day.
I would love to have a “police” 12V crank shaft fitted generator on my A10. But finding the primary covers etc. for that is like finding “rocking horse manure”
Besides that, I am sure that the covers are not so pleasant to the eye as the std. primary cover.
What is best ?
Depending upon the usage of the bike and the money you are willing to spend…
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I fitted a 12v Alton alternator in place of the dynamo , problem solved i can now run a standard 65/55 w H4 halogen bulb , i live in the countryside where there are no street light so a decent light is a must, also fitted the srm belt drive for the dynamo, needs a slight mod to make it fit the Alton, works well. next thing to try is the LED conversion, some of my mates in the club say it is brilliant and would not go back to a halogen bulb. 12v bulbs are much easier to get.
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No comment on the Alton alternator matter. This is about funny jargon and figures-of-speech. I've always appreciated the British use of the term "brilliant" to mean "great," or "wonderful," or "excellent," but would stop short of using it to describe a light bulb unless I was talking about its relative light output. *smile* ;)
Richard L.
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well the LED conversion compared to the halogen is just that, it is a much brighter and whiter light so i think the term brilliant is justified, having ridden a bike at night with one fitted there is no comparison , the LED wins every time and uses less power as well.
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Ah! Killing two birds with one stone. *smile*
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I use an Alton and I would say don't sell the old dynamo.
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No comment on the Alton alternator matter. This is about funny jargon and figures-of-speech. I've always appreciated the British use of the term "brilliant" to mean "great," or "wonderful," or "excellent," but would stop short of using it to describe a light bulb unless I was talking about its relative light output. *smile* ;)
I feel you're taking the pi$$ here, however;
*idea* *idea* I've heard "...brilliant white light" plenty of times and figured it as the definition, so would've thought that other uses of "brilliant" were derived from it
*smile*
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/brilliant
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duTch, the simple definition #3 describes you. No pith intended. *smile*
Cheers
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I'm on 6v at the moment, Bike back on the road next week so I will see if its ok.
ELLIS
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So I'm worried about this from Mister Thrasher:
"I use an Alton and I would say don't sell the old dynamo". Hmmmm...
(Also see my topic re: 7.4v LiPo batteries).
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I have stuck to 6v system on most of my bikes but I have improved the lighting system by fitting 6v pos led lighting, I know that the led pre focus headlight units are a little expensive at the moment, but I can be seen by everyone and I can also see much better at night in the country, I did have a problem with one of my small bikes C15, whereas I could not get anything out of it, so I change that to 12v but that was alternator, left the 6v horn on it which is loud now, halogen lighting on that one, which is very good. *yeah*
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After a few night rides (days are getting shorter), I am quite happy with my 6V headlight... I do no races at night.
I have a new LED tail/stop light, what I think is very bright.
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Installing a relay into the headlight circuit is an improvement as well (the dimmer switch only sends a signal to the relay; does not carry full load current - less voltage drop - globe burns brighter).
Richard
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So I'm worried about this from Mister Thrasher:
"I use an Alton and I would say don't sell the old dynamo". Hmmmm...
Some people say the latest Altons are better, but they have a terrible history of failing in service.
I had a three phase one stop working, a few months from new. They sent another, geared single phase one for free.
That has worked for a good few thousand miles, but other users have had geared type Altons fail.
And don't expect anything like prompt attention from the Alton makers.
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Converted to 12 volt in 1976 using standard Lucas E3L and JG control unit. Did many night miles due to commuting for shift work using a 60/55 watt H4. Converted because of poor 6 volt lights and battery boiling with mechanical regulator..
The JG lasted until 2010 when I replaced it with another of the same.
No longer commuting. Have fitted an Osram Night Racer 35/35 watt HS1 bulb in a Lucas flat glass H4 light unit and LED tail/stop. Good light output easily balanced by dynamo.
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Having been an auto electrician for over 20 years in a previous life I converted to 12 volt without any hesitation or regret
Mind you none of my bikes are standard anyway I am far from a purist
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Bikerboy (sorry to hijack this thread, but it's 'kinda' relevant). I've asked this question on a few forums, but so far no answer.
6v batteries are increasingly hard to get.
Can we use a 2 cell LiPo battery (at 7.2v), instead of a 6v battery (Obviously I'm running a 6v dynamo).
My question is, how would the regulator be charging the LiPo?
It'll be about the amps I guess, 30c - 40c cells are easy to get and cheap, would they handle it ok?
(Yes we could go a hard shell pack for safety).
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my limited knowledge tells me that LiPo/ (Li-ion) cells require a different charging parameter...I've acquired a few 18650 Li-ion cells to play with but *dunno*
what is ??? It'll be about the amps I guess, 30c - 40c cells are easy to get and cheap, would they handle it ok?
??
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So I'm worried about this from Mister Thrasher:
"I use an Alton and I would say don't sell the old dynamo". Hmmmm...
Some people say the latest Altons are better, but they have a terrible history of failing in service.
I had a three phase one stop working, a few months from new. They sent another, geared single phase one for free.
That has worked for a good few thousand miles, but other users have had geared type Altons fail.
And don't expect anything like prompt attention from the Alton makers.
That's my second regulator failure on the Aton just occurred!
Have now fitted one of those £10 Asian regs off Ebay.
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Hi TT
The Altons now come with "podtronics " rectifier regulators rated at 200 Watts
I think other reg's arn't up to the output from the alternator
People fail to realise that alternators /dynamos work flat out to raise the battery voltage
If this rate of charge is too high for the battery it will cook the battery *warn*
Likewise with a dud battery the charging system works flat out trying to raise the voltage top the cut out point
John
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Can we use a 2 cell LiPo battery (at 7.2v)
I'd be very anxious about trying a lithium battery. they charge at different voltages, need to be well managed in charging current and explode/burn when the parameteres are wrong. this has been mentioned before here in a couple of posts:
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=10919.msg82146#msg82146 (https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=10919.msg82146#msg82146)
if you do try this do it on a bench and do some reading first - hate to see another a10 burn.
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Thanks Mike, I'd completely forgotten that earlier thread.
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Been using Cyclons for ages and would never think of using any other type of battery.
Originally I bought 2 of the 2,5Ah 6 V packs ( which fit nicely into an old Lucas battery case ) but pinched one for another bike and have ben running on the one battery for a couple of years without any problems.
The Cyclons do not self discharge and the plates being round with fiberglass matt between them never break off.
OTOH the double dipper LED headlamp globe was a total wast of money providing less than no useable light, but with the LED tail lamp & std headlamp I have 1/2 of lighting with all lights on and no generator.
Fitted a 3 W high pressure halogen parking globe which gives out more useable light than the LED Headlamp so with the3W parlingbulb & 0.5W tail/stop lamp night riding is no problem
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6v for me - keeping the bike standard as far as possible. I reckon the bikers-of-the-60s' eyesight wasn't better than mine so it'll do for me. I use a Powersonic 8ah sealed AGM unit which is often used for alarm stand-by systems and seems to work fine at present. Night riding is fine although I don't have to dodge crazy roos!
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12v for me using two cyclon batteries in series, DVR2 regulator, belt drive kit to spin the dynamo a bit faster with LEDs all round. Not too keen on the headlamp "double dipper" so may go to a BPF halogen.
Jim
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fit a cibie Z beam light unit which is an H4 fitting, then go to classic dynamo and regulator conversions and buy one of their better ones, it has the same beam pattern as a standard H4 halogen light, got them fitted to all my bikes now, not cheap but works and you can adjust the dip from left to right hand drive or something in between. i agree the double dip stuff is not great.
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I have a zero volts system at present, the Lucas is shot.
I'm looking at the various options and tempted by the Alton with belt drive kit.
You get a sped up system which should produce decent power at fairly low revs, 150 watt max output,12 volts for bright lights, solid state voltage regulator and of course brushless permanent magnet alternator with warranty.
It's also a nice looking unit and drops a few pounds of weight off the bike vs Lucas E3l weight.
The downside is cost, about 400 GBP for the complete kit with tax.
Then , what is the cost for a Lucas rebuild ( armature gone according to testing) and so on?
Glen
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i have an early Alton which i have modified to take the srm belt drive , works a treat on my A7ss and has done for years, got LED lights all round and about to fit some period style indicators that fit into the handle bar ends like a mirror, should make night riding a bit better, hand signals don't get seen these days.
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Postage from UK is a deterrent, but for Aussies, I lashed out a couple of months ago and bought a LED insert from http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/page6.html (http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/page6.html), I think ~$75, plus postage and credit/paypal surcharge (won't use that again)..
This one may be the same as previously just mentioned, but is actually brilliant in comparison, and same pattern as the H4 I was using, and even shimmers off the road-signs so I know it's functioning... *clap*
Also bought a pair of 12V ones (slightly different design) for $25 from a random ebay, and they seem ok, but haven't used them yet
I'll edit in a piccy or two from the phone later if I remember
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6v still here on both A7SS and A10SR and no intention of changing unless my ailing hip forces me to go electric start.
LED bulbs from DynamoRegulatorConverstions are so much better and headlight backed up by a dippable Exposure Strada 1200 light on the bars.
That combination has tranformed my night-time riding. the LED bulb gives the spotightand the Strada wide angle beam lights up the verges on country lanes that you cannot see well with headlight alone. I simply clip the Strada to whichever bike I am riding. Charge lasts 3½hrs on full beam and 10 hours on dip, amazing technology.
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...headlight backed up by a dippable Exposure Strada 1200 light on the bars.
That combination has tranformed my night-time riding. the LED bulb gives the spotightand the Strada wide angle beam lights up the verges on country lanes that you cannot see well with headlight alone. I simply clip the Strada to whichever bike I am riding. Charge lasts 3½hrs on full beam and 10 hours on dip, amazing technology.
I think it should be good for that price!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Exposure-Lights-Strada-including-Remote/dp/B01KMWQZFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533976741&sr=8-1&keywords=exposure+strada+1200
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I had a look on 'D-R-Conversations' *smile*, and their light looks a look like mine, but theirs doesn't show all the entrails.... here's the pics I took back then, a bit deceptive due to a couple of street lights.... last pic is same street with lights turned off, and 20 metres further back on the speed bump but ambient light from the overhead street light, engine off so had lost about a volt but *doh* doesn't matter anyway (no light on)
With all lights on, they were drawing 1.1A high or low, and 1.13 with brake light added (all LED )... I'll show pics up the other way tho too...
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Dutch - i've still got those classic dynamo regulator conversions LEDs both 6v and 12v on my bsas and they are still great. there's a series of pics and measurements comparing them with 'lesser' bulbs and halogens here: https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=11047 (https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=11047)
sounds like they are still the best out there, esp for 6v
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6v still here on both A7SS and A10SR and no intention of changing unless my ailing hip forces me to go electric start.
LED bulbs from DynamoRegulatorConverstions are so much better and headlight backed up by a dippable Exposure Strada 1200 light on the bars.
That combination has tranformed my night-time riding. the LED bulb gives the spotightand the Strada wide angle beam lights up the verges on country lanes that you cannot see well with headlight alone. I simply clip the Strada to whichever bike I am riding. Charge lasts 3½hrs on full beam and 10 hours on dip, amazing technology.
Wow - for £260 you are almost into Alton alternator territory with an H4 bulb
Jim
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You get what you pay for in this life! and you only need one for the fleet! plus they are available for about £190.
I'll see if I can manage a night shot.
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mike, I remember reading that, probably what motivated me. I forgot to mention that I'm using a Hella H4 reflector which seems to be about like the lower profile (shallower) ones of yours.
It's a bit hard to see in my pics, but low-beam spread has the defined horizontal kicking up to the left- no fan and I haven't checked for heat.
$90 AuClams compared to £60GB plus postage doesn't seem too bad after all (ATR, £60 = ~$105)
Sav that looks handy, but even £199... *eek* pics will be good.
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On the Empire Star 6 volt neg earth
1) The night
2) The 6v LED
3) LED plus Exposure light
4) Exposure light on its own
5) Lighting up the garage and showing the Emp with my home made riser bar for light / roller box / satnav on runs
Expensive but I believe my safety is worth paying for.
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That's fairly bright Sav, but the LED alone looks a bit 'spotty', and could be a bit higher, is that with high or low beam?
What reflector/lens combo are you using?
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The LED bulbs I bought for my bike were happy with any voltage from 6-24v but were specific on polarity. For me they remove the argument about voltage although with good wiring and clean reflectors my 6v bike was indistinguishable from the 12v one in light brightness.
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The dynamoregulaor LED bulbs have two LED's, one either side of a blade, one for dip two for full beam, so very hard cut-off. I have not played with the focal length of the bulb position on the prewar bike, reflector is not good on that bike, The combination works fine for a 1937 bike, a vast improvement on what I had out of a standard BA15d bulb from the limited dynamo power.
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The LED bulbs I bought for my bike were happy with any voltage from 6-24v but were specific on polarity. For me they remove the argument about voltage although with good wiring and clean reflectors my 6v bike was indistinguishable from the 12v one in light brightness
That's handy partial info....what breed of insert and reflector are they ?
One Thing I have trouble with is colour (which is easily worked out),and 'stated * lumens*' *conf2* which means farqueall really- it depends on how the 'lumens' are calculated...then there is 'Lux' which I think is more relevant....depending on the situation *pull hair out*
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12 Volt & LED's on BOTH bikes now...
The Swing arm is Neg to Earth..
& the Plunger is Pos to Earth...
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G'day Woz.
Could end up a bit confusing. Make both the same earth. I did.
Cheers
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How does one vote - or has the poll closed? Don't tell me someone is reading all the posts and filling in a spreadsheet!
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How does one vote
Scroll back up to the top of the page
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'Scroll back up to the top of the page'
Already looked there for a while, but can't find a way to vote. What am I missing? Maybe poll is now closed.
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you should see this
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you should see this
............. yep- just worked for me
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bsaBill - not me I'm afraid. All I see is the poll result, but no means of casting a vote . But never mind, it's not important and I know when to give up.
Re the 6v debate; all my 6v vehicles - including a T20 Ferguson tractor - have stayed on 6v. After all, we're talikg wattage for lights / horns etc, and when using 6v instead of 12 that merely means twice the amperage for the same result. Provided the wiring is suitable, there should be little or no difference. For electric starting there can be a difference, as discharge rate is proportional to battery plate area, and 12v batteries usually have greater surface area meaning, on a tractor (or car etc) you may only get say 200A x 6v compared with 300A x12v. Just when you need more, you get less. But then few our bikes have been converted to electric start and the modern ones (eg my firestorm) are 12v from new.
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you should see this
That’s weird... normally once voted it should disappear. Otherwise it would be possible to vote a million times if you wanted. Haven’t changed your PC or something?
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looks like I'm in a virtual Tardis maybe, with option to freeze time
No actually I wondered if it was an unknown feature of Firefox (it has a few) so I've just tried it in Edge and Chrome - comes up just the same, possible to do with the way I open the tab (goes straight to recent posts?), I have tried to see if I could vote again and yes I could if I then pressed sumbit , which I didn't
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On this Android tablet I do not see the voting buttons; only the results.
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Difficult choice. The A10 is 6 volt and sticking with it, the A7 is 12 volt and sticking with it. I would say that if you have a decent 6 volt system (separate earth wires make all the difference), why change? If you need a dynamo overhaul, why not go 12 volt?
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G'day RD.
Are you logged in? Only members can vote. If your not logged in you will still see the topic but the voting won't be available.
Cheers
Ps: DOH, you must be logged in to post a reply *bash*
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That ore you have already voted and forgotten about it, its been going since Jan 14 I know I must have voted but can't remember it!? *eek*
I would have as I am very much in favour of 12V *fight*
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I prefer three phase ....
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Still with six volt here on all bikes.
The downside I am experiencing is that EVERY six volt LED headlamp I have purchased has given me trouble.
M23 BA15 frequently goes dim like a side light on dip. I ride with an Xposure push-bike light in case!
A10SR double dipper BPF is on full beam whether dip or main (both sides tested from separate supply and whole bulb illuminates)
Two of the new improved LED bulbs just bought from Goffy (very helpful!) have gone straight back as one had no dip and the other did not dip, just went dimmer on both sides.
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EVERY six volt LED headlamp I have purchased has given me trouble
Sav - the 'classic dynamo regulator conversions' 6v 5th gen bulb shines brightly on my 6v a10. it should for the price of it. but it is h4 so you need a new reflector or get creative with the bulb mount and some tie wire into the old bpf reflector. all the other 6v bulbs i tried were rubbish.
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Cheers will take a look at that once I have tested the replacement bulbs that arrived promptly, as usual, from Goffy.
Might be a few days as I lost an argument with a medium sized tree I was felling after the weekend's storm damage. Damn thing pivoted and sprung back, skinning my knuckles rather a lot (lucky really) . Won't be wearing gloves for a few days!
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Bring back acetylene. 0 volts. Just need water (plenty of that about) and no prince of darkness to frustrate you at every turn. My charging has just stopped. Again. Can't keep up with fixing things anymore, so just charge the battery once a week (no night riding).
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G'day Sav.
"Might be a few days as I lost an argument with a medium sized tree I was felling after the weekend's storm damage."
Can never be too careful. https://tinyurl.com/yym9s3ce
Cheers
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Needs to take a chainsaw safety course!!
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Caption. Save on Healthcare Costs with our DIY Vasectomy Kit.
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I'm sticking with the 6v on my GF for now because I've just bought a big new lead acid battery for my bike and I don't know if I'll ever ride this bike at night. Headlamp seems nice and bright though. Unless I've just wrecked my dynamo.... I forgot to remove the bridging strap (linking F and D when testing a few days ago) and revved the bike a bit to see if charge was showing on the ammeter....careless. The trouble is the previous owner fitted a 30 amp ammeter so it's hard to see the needle move. What ammeter should I fit... 6 or 12 amps? Advice appreciated.
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`12A