The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: andy on 07.11. 2015 11:22
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Hi all I have a question/query in which I hope you guys could help me with I'm building a A10 and on the oil tank which is mounted with new rubbers ect but when I came to fit the oil lines the unions are touching up against the frame tube ????? Am I missing sommat or doing anything wrong.
I have tried turning the battery tray/oil tank bracket both ways.
Should there be any spacers between said bracket and battery tray.
Many thanks in advance.
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If we're talking S/A Andy this from Draganfy's excellent site.
The thickness of the rubber pad that holds the tank from touching the frame down tube (42-8342) I've found to be a wee bit critical at times
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yes thanks.......... I should have said its a S/A. I was also thinking that and also its just popped into my head that the unions look rather long and large as the pipes are of a unknown origin......as I don't know if there are different types of unions between makers of said pipes/unions ???
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i use thick rubber or foam pipe insulation along the frame tube and squeeze it down with the tank bolt . this helps keep the tank and unions clear of the frame and stops the rubber or foam vibrating out.
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brilliant just the idea I was looking for *smiley4*
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Hi All,
I have found that the steel spacer tube 42-8331 that fits through the rubber sleeve 42- 8341 on the mounting bolt is very often missing
resulting on the tank being squeezed too tightly towards the frame downtube *problem*
In the diagram it looks like the steel sleeve is larger than the rubber one ?? this is not the case
When the assembly is correct the bolt is locked solidly to the oil tank bracket and the rubber sleve is compressed the correct amount to steady the oil tank
This is another example of the "usual faults" found whenn rebuilding A & B models *razz*
HTH
John
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Glad it`s not just me then....... Same problem exactly, the oil tank unions are silly close to the frame tube on mine, and the hexagon of the rocker feed locknut had dug a triangular pit in the tube whilst merrily vibrating against it.
I dont think BSA really thought these things out too much/ at all?.It must be the silliest,costliest, most complicated way to do the simplest of jobs, and succeeds only in being er,um, weirdly CR_P! What were they thinking of.......... ? *eek*
The curved ,slotted bracket on the back of my tank itself is welded on too high/low (cant remember which) resulting in it being a mile from anything like reasonable alignment with the front mount assembly........ and the whole sorry, complicated plot finally relies on chunks of rubber wedged between the frame and the tank.....I`m surprised BSA didn`t just stuff rags in there!!!!!
For years I have puzzled at it thinking,"what have I got wrong" but no, I had it as BSA intended all the time....... The Japanese must have been mystified........Best of luck, Bob C
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I think I used 15mm i.d. radiator hose split along its length on the frame tube for my tank....but another method I've used for making nice soft rubber cushions for the frame such as under the tank is to use old inner tubes and glue several layers together to get the exact thickness you want, and to make an even better job of it wrap the rubber pieces around a tube of similar size to the frame when gluing so they have the correct shape as well *work* *work*
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Glad it`s not just me then....... Same problem exactly, the oil tank unions are silly close to the frame tube on mine, and the hexagon of the rocker feed locknut had dug a triangular pit in the tube whilst merrily vibrating against it.
I dont think BSA really thought these things out too much/ at all?.It must be the silliest,costliest, most complicated way to do the simplest of jobs, and succeeds only in being er,um, weirdly CR_P! What were they thinking of.......... ? *eek*
The curved ,slotted bracket on the back of my tank itself is welded on too high/low (cant remember which) resulting in it being a mile from anything like reasonable alignment with the front mount assembly........ and the whole sorry, complicated plot finally relies on chunks of rubber wedged between the frame and the tank.....I`m surprised BSA didn`t just stuff rags in there!!!!!
For years I have puzzled at it thinking,"what have I got wrong" but no, I had it as BSA intended all the time....... The Japanese must have been mystified........Best of luck, Bob C
Yeah, it's a wonder that they're still in business.
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I use 22m pipe insulation which works fine .
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I am still lost on the intent of BSA with regard to the oil tank mounting. Is it that the intent is to pull the tank against the frame onto a rubber pad to steady the tank? If so, what is the purpose of the spacer (distance piece) and the rubber in the mounting bolt assembly? I don't get it. Why does one need all the spacers and curved washers to secure the tank against the frame downtube. Also, is the other end of the tank supposed to be rubber mounted?
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Norsa1,
The tank is rubber mounted on both ends. Look at part number 42-8341 in the picture. Part number 42-8342 is called a "buffer". My feeling about BSA's parts lists is that they tended to use the word that best describes the part in proper English.The number one dictionary definition for "buffer" seems to fit well: "any of various devices or pieces of material for reducing shock or damage due to contact". Actually, I am not sure if the tank would pull up against the downtube without the buffer. Never tried it, however, I think there is a good chance of getting close enough to abrade with vibration. I don't think the buffer is actually intended to steady the tank, even if it does some of that job.
Richard L.
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Hi,
To add to Richards points
The steel tube fits inside the rubber sleeves, When the bolt is fully tightened it still leaves the tank sandwiched
and isolated from the frame between the rubber pieces and the cup the rubber sits into
As Bill said the thickness of the rubber pad needed between the frame and tank back can vary from one bike to the next
A point to watch out for is that the spacer sleeve 42-8339 that sits inside the frame at the rear mounting often gets lost
Then some over enthuastic Muppet squashes the frame plates inwards overtightening the bolt *problem* *problem* *angry* *angry*
John
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A point to watch out for is that the spacer sleeve 42-8339 that sits inside the frame at the rear mounting often gets lost
Then some over enthuastic Muppet squashes the frame plates inwards overtightening the bolt *problem* *problem* *angry*
Such a great point. Exactly what had occurred with my A10. I was not the Muppet.
Richard L.
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+1.
Tube now replaced.
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I am on a steep learning curve with my A10 but maybe it is good to be taken out of your comfort zone occasionally!
I have removed my oil tank to do the recommended "deep clean" and it is taking an age. Not helped by having to find the correct sized spanners from my box of non-metrics put away a long time ago and quietly rusting and gathering cobwebs under the bench.
I was about to post some questions but the exploded parts diagram is a life saver and it has answered most of them. I will be placing an order with Draganfly later as I have a few PO modifications to correct, particularly the bushing on the rear mounting. I didn't think mine looked right - see photo.
I am having difficulty removing the copper washer on the banjo of the rocker feed. I am guessing the washer has spread through over tightening? I believe they should be fibre washers 5-203 and 2-2894? Photo attached.
Also the oil return pipe inside the top of the tank is further back than one I saw on a YouTube video but guess it's not a problem? Sorry about poor photo.
Brian
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Hi Brian, the end mounting which should go to the rear suspension frame fitting is well goosed , the 2 connections are just the oil feed and return, on the return you should also have a joint to take oil up to the rockers .
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Many thanks - new parts ordered!
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Also the oil return pipe inside the top of the tank is further back than one I saw on a YouTube video but guess it's not a problem? Sorry about poor photo.
Brian
The pipe provides a visual of the oil return, very useful for start up. As long as you get a healthy jet of oil out of it, it's fine. Its tube so can be moved if you want it to... but the main thing is just seeing the return flow and it being higher than the oil level.
A mate forgot the buffer pad and managed to split a seam on his super rocket tank, tightening it up.
The earlier plunger oil and petrol tanks were bolted up solid without rubber mounts and the pre swing arm fuel tanks in particular were very prone to splitting and is mentioned in many period tests.
The move to rubber mounting was very successful and the fuel tank mountings didn't really change much from '54 to 72.
I've lost count of the fuel tank splits my ZB has suffered. We've even added the underside studs to improve.
But putting together a basket case swing arm bike missing some of the oil tank fittings can be a challenge though as bits are typically lost
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This may help.
Diagram taken from Priory Magnetos website. https://sites.google.com/site/priorymagnetos/home
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Please note the above diagram is lifted from the Priory Magnetos website. I've no problem with that but I'd appreciate a reference. I'm happy for forum members to lift anything off my site as long as I get a reference at the same time! Many thanks. Andrew
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This may help.
Hi Roy, *welcome*. Please will you go to 'Pictures, Stories & Introductions' and tell us a bit about yourself and show us your motorcycle(s).
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Please note the above diagram is lifted from the Priory Magnetos website. I've no problem with that but I'd appreciate a reference. I'm happy for forum members to lift anything off my site as long as I get a reference at the same time! Many thanks. Andrew
Very sorry Andrew. *respect*
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No problem, glad you've found something useful on the site!!
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Please note the above diagram is lifted from the Priory Magnetos website.
I was wondering where that came from. Now I know why it's so well done and thorough.
Richard L.
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Me again!
I have only just got around to fitting the new parts I got from Draganfly to correctly mount the oil tank - a job 3 and a half years in the waiting - not to shabby eh? *eek*
Sadly the rubbers supplied are well too small. I can't find anyone on the interweb with them is stock and am wondering what best to do. I assume it should be "just" a case of finding the right hose and chopping off a bit but I am really struggling with that.
Does anyone have one they are willing to part with for an appropriate number of beer tokens please?
Brian
PS The photos show my old rubber on the right and its supposed replacement on the left.
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Yes , that's correct.
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Hi Brian and All
I was doing some servicing on a friends A10 and as usual the oil tank mounting rubbers were in sh*t
He ordered form Drag's and likewise The rubber's supplied were not correct, also disappointed that they were just cut off pieces or tubing *sad2*
The last lot of correct parts I got was from Autocycle Eng, but also try phoning C&D and Kiddiminster
John
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What is the correct length for the 42-8331 distance piece? I'm missing both, and need to fabricate my own as they seem to be permanently out of stock at all the usual suppliers. I assume the ID is just big enough to fit the bolt that passes through.
I am also missing one of the 42-8339 distance pieces that fit inside the frame ears near the shock absorber mounts, but I can use the one I have as a reference to fabricate the other one.
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Made my own from a washing machine transport mount - seems to have done the job.
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Hi All,
From memory the spacers are all 1inch long
I have found that the frame plates can have been squeezed together by a DPO who left out the spacer
A threaded stud with two nuts fitted inside the frame shock mounting can be used to spread the plates back to original
John