The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: RoyC on 22.10. 2017 16:18
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Is it possible to change the fork springs without removing the forks ?
Thanks,
Roy.
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Hi Roy
Short answer No *ex*
It is possible to drop out the fork legs and mudguard complete if you can raise the front end high enough
Its not a big job to pull the front end apart to change the springs
John
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Thanks John.
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I have ordered my springs (BSA A10 A50 A65 SIDECAR FORK SPRINGS PAIR 'NEW' 42-5145) from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-A10-A50-A65-SIDECAR-FORK-SPRINGS-PAIR-NEW-42-5145-UK-MADE-/322682937187?hash=item4b2166df63:g:QWgAAOxyUrZSpGXo .
Do I need to get any special tools to do the spring change ?
Thanks,
Roy.
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There is a tool which screws into top threads and acts as a drift when hit with a hammer to separate shaft from taper - then it is used to draw the shaft back throught the yokes on reassembly. Part 61 3350 in photo.
Link is to a commonly available tool.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORK-STANCHION-REMOVAL-INSTALL-TOOL-BSA-NORTON-TRIUMPH-/331185703113?epid=677694663&hash=item4d1c34c8c9:g:ICQAAOSwR29ZHAq9
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screws into top threads and acts as a drift when hit with a hammer to separate shaft from taper
ouch
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There is a tool which screws into top threads and acts as a drift when hit with a hammer to separate shaft from taper - then it is used to draw the shaft back throught the yokes on reassembly. Part 61 3350 in photo.
Link is to a commonly available tool.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORK-STANCHION-REMOVAL-INSTALL-TOOL-BSA-NORTON-TRIUMPH-/331185703113?epid=677694663&hash=item4d1c34c8c9:g:ICQAAOSwR29ZHAq9
Thanks Julian.
Just ordered it, although it doesn't look like the one in your photo, or am I missing something ? *doh*
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The modern multi bike tools are longer.
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The modern multi bike tools are longer.
Thanks Julian
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Tools and springs have arrived.
Could someone tell me what all the round plugs are for ?
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I've not used a tool like that (I use an old fork cap nut welded to some studding to pull the stanchions up) but I think you need to use just one of the plugs supplied (the one that has the correct thread for bsa forks), this screws temporarily into the stanchions, and the tool then uses the plug to pull the stanchions up ?
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I've not used a tool like that (I use an old fork cap nut welded to some studding to pull the stanchions up) but I think you need to use just one of the plugs supplied (the one that has the correct thread for bsa forks), this screws temporarily into the stanchions, and the tool then uses the plug to pull the stanchions up ?
Thanks kiwgf.
I did eventually sort it out.
Job all done, it was a lot less complicated than I was dreading.
Thanks to all for the help, AGAIN.
Roy.
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What w fork oil do you recommend? Ebay have everything from 5w to 30 w.
Just a few pictures.
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I use 20 which is fine for normal solo use, you might find 30 better with your outfit, but worth trying both to see which suits you.
I think anything under 20 a bit too thin for our old design forks.
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I use 20 which is fine for normal solo use, you might find 30 better with your outfit, but worth trying both to see which suits you.
I think anything under 20 a bit too thin for our old design forks.
Thanks Julian, I've ordered some 30w.
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Had 20w in at first but the ride was to harsh so now I run with 10w in and its much smoother. By the way I do have SRM damper rods in so 20w may have been too thick. *beer*
ELLIS
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I've got damper rods from George Prew and use 30 grade this suits me fine but of course it as been noted that recently I'm even more of a fat ba'tard ,it's the winter coming don't you know !! *smile*