The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 1946-1950 => Topic started by: Rookie_V#60 on 25.04. 2018 08:27
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My LS did not even have the kill button when I got it.
Have now installed an ignition switch and a charge indicator LED,
because the ammeter does not indicate exactly.
Cheers Rudy
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G'day Rudy.
I put a charge light on my A10 Cafe as I don't have an amp gauge, and a toggle switch as an engine cut out.
Hope there's no chance of sparkles that close to your carb.
Cheers
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The long stroke had the kill button on the end of the magneto.
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The long stroke had the kill button on the end of the magneto.
Sorry not mine, may be lost in the last 70 years. I first had to install a new cap (with kill button ) for the magneto.
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Good useful post Rookie - thanks
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Yes my 51 A7 had the button on the end cover. Think it got lost in a few house moves.
Cheers
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Hi Rookie,
That wiring diagram is for a negative earth bike.
I guess you know that, but thought I would point it out just in case.
Regards
Pat
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Yes Pat,
it is a 1948 Longstroke A7 .... and they had ..... negative earth !!! I think BSA switched a little bit later to pos. earth.
Cheers Rudy
.
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That's a neat setup Rookie. Does it light up when the key is turned on, or just when the system is charging/floating or just on ?
It doesn't appear to be wired to the lights as a reminder that the lights are still on when you shut down (like what I need)...
I have the same magneto end cover, but removed the button and run a wire to a cut-out switch that is part of the OIF/Conical brake lever block. Not really an 'ignition' switch though is it; engine runs when disconnected and stops when connected ? *conf*
I'm also running -ve earth, but it doesn't look quite like that.... *eek*
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Hi Dutch,
the switch has an opener and an closer . If you take off the key the opener ist closed and short cut the magneto. If you put the key in and turn it on the opener "opens" (no more killing the magneto) and at the same time the closer switch on the LED.
It has + from the ammeter and - from the D-Terminal of the dynamo.
When the dynamo starts loading the D-Terminal get also + and the LED is dark (off).
That's all, to see If the ligths are on you can install an other LED via ligth switch.
Cheers Rudy
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Thanks RookaRudy That's about how I figured, but.;
When the dynamo starts loading the D-Terminal get also + and the LED is dark (off).
That's all, to see If the ligths are on you can install an other LED via ligth switch...
That's the bit I was curious about, so when you pull up at idle/low revs, I take it the LED comes on again (due to low generation,cutout cuts out-as they do) ?
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Yes on very low revs the LED comes again, it is a charge indicator!
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Yes it's a balance thing. When the flow (for the want of a better word) from the dynamo exceeds the flow from the battery the light goes out and vice versa.
Remember the old cars at night you'd be watching that dull glow of the red light, hoping to make it home.
Cheers
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I think being green was what made me curious, wouldn't red be better?
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mine is red, red means trouble.
Cheers
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Here's what I've done on my '48 A7. Original cut out on end of magneto.
Reco standard generator, 12 volt negative earth, electronic reg inside old reg. Gutted an old amp meter and fitted an LED volt gauge inside. Also a hidden switch on the battery negative wire to save the battery when not in use. When I switch on that switch the volt gauge fires up and tells me that the 12v electrics are on, how flat the battery is and after starting the engine that the battery is being re-charged. I also have the same set up on the Super Rocket but with the magneto cut out switch on the 'bars.
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Here's what I've done on my '48 A7. .............
oh yeah ? I've seen yours- here's mine.. *smile*...I bought a high quality(cheap Jaycar) analogue V meter and temporarily zip-tied it to the whatever cable 5 years ago...still running well... *smile*
all in fun...I'm interested in this- I recall a couple of threads a while ago where LED's were discussed as charge indication, and in one thread,I think was GB showed off his u-Beaut 'Gizmo'(?) and I went off on a tangent wondering if this or similar concept would work with another LED wired in the other way to show discharge...at that point I think (one of the's ) Trev queried 'what I was trying to achieve' ..... *dunno2*....but now we're making progress.......
mine is red, red means trouble.
I suggest yours would be on constantly.. *smile*
I'm still keen to chase up Rookies idea as a way to illuminate the amp meter (which I have done, but only does colours- kinda, work in progress, also discussed and used ~260Ω ? resistors- thanks Chater-John)
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Good one duTch.
I admit to have done similar many times. Gee those cable ties are great.
Cheers
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The little gizmo, (not much larger than a bean) I bought is wired into the speedo light. This is necessary unless you fit a battery switch. My bike has the cowpat around the headlamp and instruments. I've stuck the device, out of sight using BlueTac to the clear plastic on the side of the ammeter. It is an integrated circuit that has a tri-colour LED that shows by red/amber/green the state of charge. If I'm not using the lights I can see from the ammeter if I have charging, in poor light I can see the glow from the LED in the ammeter. I love subtle modernisations like this.
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any idea where you purchased said doo dah GB
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Gee those cable ties are great.
out of sight using BlueTac to the clear plastic on the side of the ammeter.
I've never bought any of either, but figured out how to undo and reuse zippies, other than that I have a stockpile of unused ones I've found discarded on jobs -can't stand waste *rant*
......... It is an integrated circuit that has a tri-colour LED that shows by red/amber/green the state of charge.........
I think that was the essence of my previous query...based on Rookies setup, if GB's shows green when charging & red when discharge, it should be....and that's about when brainfart set in.... *pull hair out*
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any idea where you purchased said doo dah GB
EBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-LED-Battery-Voltmeter-Charge-monitor-Indicator-Alternator-warning-light-lamp/201338527109?epid=1488730382&hash=item2ee0b61d85:g:URoAAOxyRhBS2H1r
Please note, they work OK on 6v as well. The plastic bezel is removable if not required.
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any idea where you purchased said doo dah GB
EBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-LED-Battery-Voltmeter-Charge-monitor-Indicator-Alternator-warning-light-lamp/201338527109?epid=1488730382&hash=item2ee0b61d85:g:URoAAOxyRhBS2H1r
Please note, they work OK on 6v as well. The plastic bezel is removable if not required.
Where did you put this in the charge wiring circuit ? (Mine is + earth)
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Where did you put this in the charge wiring circuit ? (Mine is + earth)
Roy, all the info is up there ↑ and on the item Ebay page. ;)
My bike is 6v + earth. As I have no way of isolating the feed I just powered the device from the bulb in the speedo*. This means I only see the faint glow in the ammeter if it is dark. If one wanted to see the LED nice and clearly at all times it could be mounted more obviously but you'd need to arrange an off switch to avoid draining the battery.
* The gizmo is only interested in the voltage in the machines wiring. It changes colour depending on its built-in parameters; eg., on my 6v machine: <6v = Red light, >6v = Green light, 6v = yellow light.
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Cheers GB, just ordered, will be working on the RGF this year and it's just what I need, (it's 12 volt )
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I don't think I will be doing this one if it depends on remembering to turn a switch on and off. *sad2*
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I don't think I will be doing this one if it depends on remembering to turn a switch on and off. *sad2*
It doesn't on mine; but then, it's only useful when the lights are on.
If you wanted to fit a, (possibly hidden) double pole switch you could use one set of contacts to kill the Mag and the others to turn this device on. I've knocked up a schematic diagram. Anyone see any problems with it?
For clarity; the contact pairs are 1 & 3 and 2 & 4
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I am hopeless at electrics but, what has the magneto got to do with seeing if the dynamo is charging ?
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Hi All,
Just a notion for one of you guys with spare time to try ?
What about connecting the LED gizmo to the "D" of the voltage regulator ?
This will only show voltage when the engine/ dynamo is charging ??
It may flick on and off during daytime running ?? as the regulator switches on and off ?????
No switch needed *bright idea* LOL
John
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Hi All,
Just a notion for one of you guys with spare time to try ?
What about connecting the LED gizmo to the "D" of the voltage regulator ?
This will only show voltage when the engine/ dynamo is charging ??
It may flick on and off during daytime running ?? as the regulator switches on and off ?????
No switch needed *bright idea* LOL
John
What wire is that on a DVR2 ?
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Hi Roy,
Its the yellow wire
http://dynamoregulators.com/documents/dvr2-data.pdf
John
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John beat me to it.
Connect the five leads as follows (and study the wiring diagram): Black lead (Negative Earth) OR Red lead (Positive Earth) to Earth / frame / chassis Green lead to Field Yellow lead to Dynamo Brown lead to Ammeter White lead to Brown lead for 6 V operation White not connected (insulated) for 12 V operation
Good one GB, I've put it in my watch list, I'll need two 6v (XT500 & AG175) and two 12v (51 A7 & CB1100F). The only head scratch is with the A7 converted to 12v through a DVR2. 6v if it goes on the dynamo side or 12v if on the battery side.
Cheers
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I am hopeless at electrics but, what has the magneto got to do with seeing if the dynamo is charging ?
They are unrelated.
My idea just uses a double pole switch that can control two different circuits. Before you could start the bike you'd have to click the switch to enable the magneto. At the same time the charge indicator would be powered.
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They are unrelated.
My idea just uses a double pole switch that can control two different circuits. Before you could start the bike you'd have to click the switch to enable the magneto. At the same time the charge indicator would be powered.
Fairly much the same as Rookie has done
The Gizmo is a nice idea and I considered it, but with the cost of postage to Au added on, decided I'd see what I can bodge up ...
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A) This will only show voltage when the engine/ dynamo is charging ??
B) It may flick on and off during daytime running ?? as the regulator switches on and off ?????
C) No switch needed *bright idea* LOL
John
A: That was the reason, as my ammeter was spinning.
B: Yes, at low speed, the LED will light up and also if there is too much current.
C: If there is no switch, the LED is always on when you shut down the engine.
Rudy
Here the original and my new wiring diagramm again. Also the LED's
and the keyed switch (universal for Scooter or Quad) with 2 contacts -1 opener (magneto) and 1 closer (dynamo), so you have 2 functions with 1 turn.
Sourced via evil bay in China total cost: 5€
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As I was going to sleep I realised my circuit has a problem. When the switch is closed the mag is earthed so engine is stopped, but, the charge indicator is powered! I need to arrange to short the mag but cut power to the LED. I'll draw a new circuit idea after breakfast.
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The Gizmo is a nice idea and I considered it, but with the cost of postage to Au added on, decided I'd see what I can bodge up ...
Muskie seems interested; maybe you could share the UK to AU shipping cost. Any other forum members interested?
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I sent the vendor a ?. How much for 4 + post to AU. See what he says.
Cheers
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Muskie seems interested; maybe you could share the UK to AU shipping cost. Any other forum members interested?
yeah ta not really that fussed- I think I have it covered and can live without it, and would still need to add in extra leg and hassle of postage probably only a few$$, but see what vendor says anyway
What I have done though, to alleviate the stress on lighting I've lashed out $90 on a LED headlight insert ($75+ $9 postage +$5 PPsurchrge *eek*), supposedly draws 1.8A @6V 4-4.5K lumens....I'll keep yea posted on that- just waiting for it to arrive...
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I am hopeless at electrics but, what has the magneto got to do with seeing if the dynamo is charging ?
They are unrelated.
My idea just uses a double pole switch that can control two different circuits. Before you could start the bike you'd have to click the switch to enable the magneto. At the same time the charge indicator would be powered.
I like this idea, there is no way that you can forget to turn the LED off if you have to flick the switch to stop the engine and visa versa.
Now waiting for your revised diagram. After your Weetabix. *smile*
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On my Ariel Square Four MKII I have a similar installation, but here also an oil pressure indicator ( red as very important and essential for a SQ4). The Ariel has an ignition switch by factory .
For my BSA I'm still searching a position for an oil pressure switch.
Rudy
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I am hopeless at electrics but, what has the magneto got to do with seeing if the dynamo is charging ?
They are unrelated.
My idea just uses a double pole switch that can control two different circuits. Before you could start the bike you'd have to click the switch to enable the magneto. At the same time the charge indicator would be powered.
I like this idea, there is no way that you can forget to turn the LED off if you have to flick the switch to stop the engine and visa versa.
Now waiting for your revised diagram. After your Weetabix. *smile*
I made a start but a boring person asked me to go and buy skirting board!
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OK, Roy, sorry if the word 'relay' fills you with dread but really it shouldn't. Here is my new improved schematic. When the, (now single pole) switch is 'Off' the relay is unpowered and the Normally Closed, (NC) contacts are earthing the magneto. When the switch is at 'On' the relay is powered, opening the NC contacts, enabling the mag. At the same time the charge indicator is powered. Any thoughts chaps?
Of course the switch could be a keyed one.
Suitable relays are not expensive:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/0366293/
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OK, Roy, sorry if the word 'relay' fills you with dread but really it shouldn't. Here is my new improved schematic. When the, (now single pole) switch is 'Off' the relay is unpowered and the Normally Closed, (NC) contacts are earthing the magneto. When the switch is at 'On' the relay is powered, opening the NC contacts, enabling the mag. At the same time the charge indicator is powered. Any thoughts chaps?
Of course the switch could be a keyed one.
Suitable relays are not expensive:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/0366293/
Thanks GB. I know what a relay does and I can follow a simple wiring diagram, I just can't design one *sad2*
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Diagrams printed off, relay and on off switch ordered from RS. *good3*
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Diagrams printed off, relay and on off switch ordered from RS. *good3*
I'm impressed! Please keep us up to date with the project. Are you able to put the relay and switch somewhere out of the rain?
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Diagrams printed off, relay and on off switch ordered from RS. *good3*
I'm impressed! Please keep us up to date with the project. Are you able to put the relay and switch somewhere out of the rain?
Thinking of putting the relay in the toolbox, and switch, or ignition switch under but level with the seat. I will put the LED by the handlebars. The battery is in the boot of the sidecar.
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Hi,
Rudy, the "D" wire from the dynamo to the regulator only has voltage when the dynamo is charging
none when the engine is stopped.
This is how normal charging lamps work , using the voltage from the dynamo to balance the battery voltage applied to the other side of the lamp, 12v either side of the lamp = no light
Muskie,
The DVR 6-12 conversion reg just regulates the voltage at a higher level, the dynamo voltage will rise to 20v easily on open circuit
So you need another 12 v LED gadget
GB,
Switches with one normally open and one normally closed contacts are readily available
no need for complex relays *bright idea*
John
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GB,
Switches with one normally open and one normally closed contacts are readily available
no need for complex relays *bright idea*
Double pole but working opposite each other?
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Hi GB
Yup, I would search on RS or Farnell, maybe Maplin if they are still open
It can also be achieved with an industrial latching push button or keyswitch where you can add your chosen contact types
(I'm rusty on this stuff since I packed up the sparky game *conf2* in 2009)
John
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Just the job. I'll research those switches tomorrow. Thanks.
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GB,
Switches with one normally open and one normally closed contacts are readily available
no need for complex relays *bright idea*
Double pole but working opposite each other?
Possibly something like what Rookie has ?
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*conf* Come on lads, I've ordered my switch and relay now. *sad2*
But if there's a better way, I can order something else. *conf2*
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*conf* Come on lads, I've ordered my switch and relay now. *sad2*
But if there's a better way, I can order something else. *conf2*
It's always worth waiting a while here to get other people's response before leaping. If there is a suitable switch you may not need the relay. Laters.
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Only look on my replay #34
Cheers Rudy
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Only look on my replay #34
...and the keyed switch (universal for Scooter or Quad) with 2 contacts -1 opener (magneto) and 1 closer (dynamo), so you have 2 functions with 1 turn.
Sourced via evil bay in China total cost: 5€
Sorry Rudy, I did not understand that first time through. I didn't know such a switch existed. It now makes sense to me. Do you have a link you can paste here?
Do you want a keyed switch RoyC?
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Only look on my replay #34
...and the keyed switch (universal for Scooter or Quad) with 2 contacts -1 opener (magneto) and 1 closer (dynamo), so you have 2 functions with 1 turn.
Sourced via evil bay in China total cost: 5€
Do you want a keyed switch RoyC?
Is that like an ignition switch ?
I want the best way to get a charge LED.
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Do you want a keyed switch RoyC?
Is that like an ignition switch ?
I want the best way to get a charge LED.
I guess so Roy. See Rudis photos
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I want the best way to get a charge LED.
My charge light is if the headlight doesn't brighten when I rev it, means it ain't a chargin'.... *conf2*
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I want the best way to get a charge LED.
My charge light is if the headlight doesn't brighten when I rev it, means it ain't a chargin'.... *conf2*
Is this so even with a fully charged 55ah battery and led headlight bulb?
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Is this so even with a fully charged 55ah battery and led headlight bulb?
Quick Logic test suggests I'd have to say even more so... *conf2*
** But my logic is not always in synch
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LED has arrived, just waiting to know what this switch is, *dunno2* and a new diagram from GB *computer*
I can wire things together, but, I know nout about components or wire gauges.
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LED has arrived, just waiting to know what this switch is, *dunno2* and a new diagram from GB *computer*
I've had a quick look at RS but I'm not sure about the correct description. I've asked Rudi to post a link to the one he got. The problem with buying stuff from China or Hong Kong is the shipping time. I'm sure RS or Farnell will have one, albeit more expensive.
I think my first diagram will apply but you will need to attach the contacts to suit, ie. NC. for the mag earth and NO. for the LED device. This means that when the switch is in the 'Off' position the NC. contacts will be earthing the mag and the NO. contacts will disconnect the LED gizmo. Obviously, when the switch is 'On' the reverse will apply.
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...I know nout about components or wire gauges.
The wire guage is not very important here. The LED will hardly draw any current, likewise the mag earth.
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Sorry for the delay had first to change on eBay.com uk and au be sure you get it:
And yes you has to be patient, shipping is free but need 2-3 weeks until you have it.
Example for the Switch:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Ignition-Switch-Key-For-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki-KTM/282642852704?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D51382%26meid%3D29987319dff24bcb996947d75a90fbdc%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D391809014334%26itm%3D282642852704&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A5a5f99cb-4d2a-11e8-930d-74dbd180e981%7Cparentrq%3A1b3ed8081630a688cee08089ffff64f8%7Ciid%3A1
and the LED's:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8mm-6V-12V-24V-220V-LED-Wasserdicht-Leuchtmelder-Kontrollleuchte-Signalleuchte/391809014334?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D51382%26meid%3D6b8fd19e66344153a9bb88ff96bc33b5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D282642852704%26itm%3D391809014334&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A01fe5eb5-4d2b-11e8-821d-74dbd180b553%7Cparentrq%3A1b4322741630ab6bacfad92fffff5abe%7Ciid%3A1
Cheers Rudy
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Like this ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Ignition-Key-Switch-For-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki-KTM/253412848956?epid=933677177&hash=item3b0095353c:g:V7MAAOSwSwVaWelR
Does this do away with the need for a relay ?
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Exactly the same!
You need no relay the current to mag and LED is very low.
You can easyly check via ohmmeter which of the wire pairs are the opener and the closer.
Rudy
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Exactly the same!
You need no relay the current to mag and LED is very low.
You can easyly check via ohmmeter which of the wire pairs are the opener and the closer.
Rudy
Thanks Rudy, I will order that switch.
I know I'me thick when it comes to electrics, but I can't figure out how to work GB's circuit without the relay. As stated before, I can't design a circuit.
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Does this make sense and would it work ?
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Hi Roy,
take GB's diagram from replay #26 .
Cheers Rudy
P.S. Sorry you was quicker than I, yes your circut ( + earth) works!
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Hi Roy,
P.S. Sorry you was quicker than I, yes your circut ( + earth) works!
Great.
A big thanks for all your help.
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I've been out all day, (my wifes birthday).
Roy, please check that the switch you buy has both NC. contacts and NO. contacts. This means that when the switch is off one pair of contacts will be open while the other pair will be closed.
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Does this make sense and would it work ?
Your diagram is ok. But you need to make sure that the switch does what I described, ie., one circuit closed while the other circuit is open
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Instead of connecting the lamp to earth as shown, which will not indicate whether the battery is being charged but only that there is life in the battery.
Connect it to "D" instead as has been suggested previously.
This way the lamp will be illuminated when the generator is not charging and will be out when it is. Just like any conventional system.
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I've been out all day, (my wifes birthday).
Roy, please check that the switch you buy has both NC. contacts and NO. contacts. This means that when the switch is off one pair of contacts will be open while the other pair will be closed.
This is the one I've ordered - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Ignition-Key-Switch-For-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki-KTM/253412848956?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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The special charging device discussed is connected between a live feed and earth.
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Instead of connecting the lamp to earth as shown, which will not indicate whether the battery is being charged but only that there is life in the battery.
Connect it to "D" instead as has been suggested previously.
This way the lamp will be illuminated when the generator is not charging and will be out when it is. Just like any conventional system.
TrevinOz, pease will you read up about the special device we've been discussing.
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Got my LED.
Fitting instructions.
For 'Ignition on' operation, connect Black to negative supply, and Red to switched feed from an ignition switch.
Can someone put me clear as to how this will fit into my diagram.
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Is this what they mean ?
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Sorry RoyC, I'm a bit busy to read this at the moment. I'll get back to you as soon as I can. As a quick test just wire the LED device anywhere between a live wire and earth. The seller says you cannot bugger it up by reverse connecting it.
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Got my LED.
Fitting instructions.
For 'Ignition on' operation, connect Black to negative supply, and Red to switched feed from an ignition switch.
Can someone put me clear as to how this will fit into my diagram.
Roy, if you are still struggling.
First off, have you had a play with the LED device to prove that it works? Just holding its wires across the battery live and the frame should give it power. May need to reverse the connections to suit your bikes polarity.
Do you have a way of checking continuity; such as a multimeter or a battery and bulb, (better yet is a buzzer or bell)? First identify the switch contacts; there should be 2 pairs. With the switch turned 'Off', (key out I presume) you should see one pair of contacts are shorted by the switch. Turn the key and those contacts should show open circuit. These contacts are for the mag earth so run a cable to suit that circuit. The other pair of contacts should be open circuit when the switch is at the 'Off' position and shorted when the switch is turned to 'On' position; they are the contacts for the charge indicator.
Using a switch for the mag is more secure than it used to be when thieves would know that they only had to pop the end cap off the mag to overcome the security switch. However, don't trust the switch too much.
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Connected the LED across + - on my spare battery, light works OK.
Just waiting for my ignition switch now.
If the switch works like I hope, my diagram should work.
I will keep you informed on the progress.
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Connected the LED across + - on my spare battery, light works OK.
Just waiting for my ignition switch now.
If the switch works like I hope, my diagram should work.
I will keep you informed on the progress.
Roy, my first diagram applies as well. I didn't realise at first that I'd made a mistake in the switching so then considered using a relay. Notice that I showed 4 contacts; ie. two pairs. I didn't know at the time that you can get a switch that turns one set of contacts off and another set on at the same time. If I can help any more just shout. *smile*
I was hoping you'd temporarily connect the LED device to your bike to see that it does what it's supposed to do, ie. change colour as the revs change.
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Connected the LED across + - on my spare battery, light works OK.
Just waiting for my ignition switch now.
If the switch works like I hope, my diagram should work.
I will keep you informed on the progress.
I was hoping you'd temporarily connect the LED device to your bike to see that it does what it's supposed to do, ie. change colour as the revs change.
Not yet.
I've been fitting an extended tickler to keep my finger dry.
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Connected the LED across + - on my spare battery, light works OK.
Just waiting for my ignition switch now.
If the switch works like I hope, my diagram should work.
I will keep you informed on the progress.
I was hoping you'd temporarily connect the LED device to your bike to see that it does what it's supposed to do, ie. change colour as the revs change.
Not yet.
I've been fitting an extended tickler to keep my finger dry.
Off topic Roy *smile*
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How are the keyed switch projects going?
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How are the keyed switch projects going?
Just finished it today.
I will take some pictures to show you.
The cut out works great when the key is turned off, when the key is turned on the light comes on, like an ignition light to let me know it is ready to kick it over. *smile*
A couple of bad pics of the LED and switch brackets I made (all stainless).
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How are the keyed switch projects going?
Just finished it today.
I will take some pictures to show you.
The cut out works great when the key is turned off, when the key is turned on the light comes on, like an ignition light to let me know it is ready to kick it over. *smile*
A couple of bad pics of the LED and switch brackets I made (all stainless).
Looks fantastic. I hope the charging indicator does what it is supposed to do, i.e. changes through three colours.
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It's green at the moment.
The battery is fully charged so I don't think it will show any other colour until the battery has discharged a little.
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It's green at the moment.
The battery is fully charged so I don't think it will show any other colour until the battery has discharged a little.
Mine shows a discharge, (red) when turned on, (via the speedo bulb), amber when the engine is running, red when the headlamp is turned on, and moves to green when the revs rise. The thing mirrors what the ammeter is doing.
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It's green at the moment.
The battery is fully charged so I don't think it will show any other colour until the battery has discharged a little.
Mine shows a discharge, (red) when turned on, (via the speedo bulb), amber when the engine is running, red when the headlamp is turned on, and moves to green when the revs rise. The thing mirrors what the ammeter is doing.
Just popped down the garage to have a look, it does change colour from green to orange when the headlight is turned on (LED only draws 25w from a 55Ah battery http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyWhyNotLEDs.htm ), I haven't started it up yet to see what happens when running.
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*bright idea*
Can not resist, *eek* *eek* have invested € 2.36 for a voltmeter in addition to the ammeter and my load indicator LED.
Already at the kick start, there is a significant increase in the voltage. Not so fine workmansship only fixed with 2 cable ties *eek*
And even invested in a headlight LED that works really great. *smile*
Cheers Rudy