The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: coater87 on 30.05. 2018 17:43
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Does someone make a fitting to do what I am showing in the pictures?
With this mish mash of parts, some type of clevis would be perfect. I would have 90 degree pull angle and still have adjustment.
If I change the arm for another 30 or 45 degree, I not only get a bad pull angle but I am out of adjustment the other way. *conf*
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Remove 1/2" of the outer?
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Is the wheel locked when cable and lever are connected?
I’m asking this because both mine show about the same distance between cable and lever when disconnected. When connected it still needs a couple of turns at the handlebar adjuster to get the right adjustment.
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Does someone make a fitting to do what I am showing in the pictures?
With this mish mash of parts, some type of clevis would be perfect. I would have 90 degree pull angle and still have adjustment.
If I change the arm for another 30 or 45 degree, I not only get a bad pull angle but I am out of adjustment the other way. *conf*
You might consider shortening the outer cable, which of course has the effect of lengthening the amount of cable movement. Got a Dremel?
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Ok,
So they don't make this piece. *sad2*
The outer on this cable could be 1 inch longer as is, shorten it any more and I think it will be junk. (I added a right hand turn joke, but I don't think you have NASCAR in Europe;) )
I measured it against a good length cable, it's 1 and 3/8 of an inch shorter. It honestly may be too short to really be usable. *conf*
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Is the wheel locked when cable and lever are connected?
I’m asking this because both mine show about the same distance between cable and lever when disconnected. When connected it still needs a couple of turns at the handlebar adjuster to get the right adjustment.
Hi Morris.
I skimmed the drum, then I re-lined the shoes. The shoes were Ferodo, but made for a triumph. Could be a little thicker, I don't know because I have no BSA shoes to compare with.
With this combination and the reproduction cable my brake is locked tight with zero adjustment left.
I will build something to make this work. I paid extra because the cable was UK made.
*sad2*
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Hi Lee,
Have you tried reversing the brake arm at the hub?
turning it over is usually equal to half a spline as they are not cut "square" with the lever
A big chain split link might join up the bits you have if all else fails *eek* *eek*
John
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Is the wheel locked when cable and lever are connected?
I’m asking this because both mine show about the same distance between cable and lever when disconnected. When connected it still needs a couple of turns at the handlebar adjuster to get the right adjustment.
Hi Morris.
I skimmed the drum, then I re-lined the shoes. The shoes were Ferodo, but made for a triumph. Could be a little thicker, I don't know because I have no BSA shoes to compare with.
With this combination and the reproduction cable my brake is locked tight with zero adjustment left.
I will build something to make this work. I paid extra because the cable was UK made.
*sad2*
Mmm... right. I guess 60 years of mix and match takes its toll. I relined the SA's rear brake recently and had a similar problem. I called my cable supplier and made him measure the cables he had. In the end it was a cable for a B31 that fitted best. But still had to make a little ferrule for the outer cable to make it work the way I wanted. Anyway, fairly decent now for a 7" FWH. Won't pull any skid marks but I'm happy as is.
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Hi Lee,
Have you tried reversing the brake arm at the hub?
turning it over is usually equal to half a spline as they are not cut "square" with the lever
A big chain split link might join up the bits you have if all else fails *eek* *eek*
John
Hi John,
This one is either dead straight or so close to it flipping the lever makes no noticeable difference. I don't understand why BSA did this- as you say they would have two positions for the exact same money it cost them to make the part.
I will weld up some type of shackle to get that cable working. I think the cable would be OK if the shoes were broken in just a little. We will see.
Lee
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This is why I no longer buy off-the-shelf cables....too often they don't either fit well or at all.
A riding mate's s/a A10 has the new rear brake cable adjuster wound out to the max with new shoes. Treat yourself to a 75W soldering iron and do them yourself and then they're bound to fit!