The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Steverat on 24.11. 2018 18:39
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Josef's outer cups are impacted, you can see the ball indentations in the cups. Does anyone know where I can get one of those extraction tools that screw into the cup for then knocking out from the steering head? My internet search skills failing me here.....
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I welded a piece of bar across the races on each bearing and tapped them out with a drift. The heat from the welding must have helped. I wrote it up with a sketch, if you wan't to search for it.
I bought a couple of taper roller bearings to replace the old bicycle style balls and cups.
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G'day Steve
Ditto as above.
Cheers
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I had trouble getting my bearing races out so I took the frame to my local engineering blacksmith. After a few trials with various techniques and some choice swear words, he used a plasma cutter to cut through the steel. He confirmed that the bearing cups were seized into the frame and thought there was no way a threaded drift would have got them out.
This has left a few marks on the frame seat where the new tapered roller bearing from SRM will seat, but I’ll dress these out with my Dremel.
The price for this work? £20. A bargain considering everything! *smiley4*
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Finally I found the part number for the extractor in Haynes, its 61-3063. They do work well, I've had one before a long time ago, just can't find my old one anywhere.
Drags are sending me one for £33.60. Might be a bit more than welding things to the cups but I prefer.
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dong my Gutzzi ones, I was suggested to run a bead of weld around the inside of the cup and they'll fall out- which I did and they/it did.... *whistle*
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Yes that sounds elegant, the shrinkage of the solidifying weld pulls the cup in I suppose
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I must have been lucky cos when I renewed mine with tapered rollers from G Prew I simply turned the frame upside down and back then drifted the old cups using a brass bar I had , it didn't do any harm and they are still working fine 8 -9 yrs on
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In my case the cup ID isn’t small enough to get a drift onto the edge of it. Yes you are luckier
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top dad same here I tapped mine out same method about 38yrs ago *good3*
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Has anyone had the frame wear around the bearing cups. My top one has always been easy to just push out with light pressure. I was wondering if its the reason for the front judder.
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I have heard of people using Loctite bearing fit around the cups if they are a tad loose. It would be a good idea to clamp them in the housings until it sets with a length of studding and large washers.
Jim
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I have heard of people using Loctite bearing fit around the cups if they are a tad loose. It would be a good idea to clamp them in the housings until it sets with a length of studding and large washers.
Jim
Loose on my Guzzi V50 after two big front end impacts. Just loctited in - all good.
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As I recall there was enough lip on the cups to employ a long punch or bar from the opposite end of each cup to tap it out, memory again though
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As I recall there was enough lip on the cups to employ a long punch or bar from the opposite end of each cup to tap it out, memory again though
I found that that was not the case with me, hence the welding trick.
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For what it's worth, if I recall, when I put new taper roller bearings in I think I carved grooves @ 180˚ in the casting top and bottom to enable use of a drift for when I need to replace them....sorry rivet counters (not)- bearing in mind that my bearings are different OD size for Conical Forks, so had to have a sleeve made to pack 'em out, so the 'grooves' aren't so deep *work*
(.......for when I need to replace them- bearing in mind that my bearings are different OD size.....) yes, unavoidable pun *whistle*
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Finally Drags failed to send the tool, and Nick got fed up of my whingeing and came round with his welder.
Here they are, free at last.
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Finally Drags failed to send the tool, and Nick got fed up of my whingeing and came round with his welder.
Here they are, free at last.
Free the ring piece two.
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Turned a cylindrical bar down to right diameter (can’t remember what it is). Put a really rubbish thread on it.it didn’t screw in properly but held well enough for me to put another bar through the head and knock the cup and tool out together. Didn’t fancy the Drags price for something I’d only use once.
Adrian
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Just a prompt really Steverat, my frame had been badly bushbashed and the headstock had worn out of round, so when I fitted the new bearings it was impossible to get them to sit square, they were either too tight or too loose on rotation.....after careful hand rework by a local guy (in Aus), he then fitted rollers too which he had to customize for fit, with good outcome.....