The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: hdawson on 28.12. 2018 06:27
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I need to purchase a rear brake cable for my '61 a10.
The part number in my spares list is 42-7032 with a diagram which clearly shows a ball connector at each end which I need.
However all searches at my usual suppliers shows a cable with a clevis connector at one end.
Any advise would be appreciated.
Cheers, Hadrian.
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G'Day H D,
Perhaps you have an Ariel hub, in which case the following may be correct.
I had great difficulty getting a cable for my '61 Golden Flash last year. Mine did have the clevis, having an original BSA hub. There were 3 types - Underslung - Overslung - and somethingelseorother. None were correct length.
https://www.classicbikepartscheshire.com/control-levers-spares-c122/brake-cables-c187/bsa-a7-a10-rear-brake-cable-made-in-england-oem-no-42-7030-genuine-doherty-p2994
Not trying to steer you towards this company, just the first hit after googling 42-7030 for Ariel hub.
Cheers
Colin
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Have a look at here:
https://degroot-bsa.nl/product/rear-brake-cable-a7-10-b31-b33-ariel-hub-en/
Its only the other side of the world *conf*
cheers Klaus
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Maybe I'm unlucky, but just about every cable I've ever bought for a specific application ends up needing either the outer or inner shortening to fit the bike properly.
I invested in a soldering iron, flux and solder and now all my cables fit perfectly.. *smile*
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I think it quite common for cables not to fit properly.
One issue is that a number of cables currently being sold have moulded solder nipples mening the cable cannot be shortened without having a brass nipple to solder in place.
Rear brake cables are a difficult to find in the right length. There were 4 different ones made by BSA. One for Ariel type hubs. One for the early 1958 iron hubs, a different one for the later 1958 iron hubs due to the repositioning of the square in the hub lever, and a fourth for 1960 on with the hub lever pointing down.
Correct fitted length of rear cable depends on the position of the left side footrest and the psoition of the brake pedal on the splines in relation to the short lever the other end of the crossover shaft.
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..... furthermore some people have the wrong brake plate for the frame. The early fwh frame had a square bracket where the brake cable attaches, the later frame just has a steel plate brazed to the frame. The early brake plate has the brake adjuster lug as a casting, whereas the later brake plate utilises a threaded extension to the torque arm bolt. make sure you have the correct brake plate for frame to start with.
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Many thanks you for your replies.
Looks like I will have to buy something that looks similar and then get out the wire cutters and soldering iron (again) *eek*
To quote a former Australian Prime Minister- "Life wasn't meant to be easy" *problem*
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G'day Hadrian.
Make sure your soldering is well and truly up to it. Don't want one of those nipples coming off in an emergency breaking situation.
Cheers
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Hi All
get out the wire cutters and soldering iron (again)
hdawson,
Most soldering irons would not be up to soldering the rear brake cable fittings properly
A solder pot is much better for this job (and all other cable making too)
John
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Too right.
Thanks again for the advice *smile*
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Don't want one of those nipples coming off in an emergency breaking situation.
The lack of braking could cause a breaking situation!
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Ha had it happen going into stop corner at Amaroo Park. Had to trow her back two gears get the back end slidding sideways and gas it, went round speedway style!
Next pit stop for undies!
Cheers
My favourite track https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAXve7E_0XA