The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: jhg1958 on 28.07. 2020 17:01
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Do I need to fit the gearbox before the engine on a Swinging arm 1961 A10?
Since the engine is fully rebuilt and it is seriously heavy, I was considering laying it on its side and fitting the frame to the engine. Then lifting the whole lot back on to the stand. Stupid idea I know but has anyone tried this?
John
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I do this on most of my rebuilds, and it worked well on the plunger A7. I'd rather jiggle a frame around than a heavy engine unit!
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Do I need to fit the gearbox before the engine on a Swinging arm 1961 A10?
No. Gearbox can be installed afterwards.
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Cheers. The Haynes Manual suggests that the gearbox should be fitted first but I am sure I took it out first.
I will let you know when I have finished.
John
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Yes definitely engine first. I recomend wrapping card around the front down tubes to protect them from graunching during the fit. Either that or ensure you have a fine brush and some suitable touch up paint. On second thoughts do both.
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Done *smile*
It was a lot of faff but no heavy lifting and no damage to the newly powder coated frame. Thanks for th advice for covering it up, you can see I followed it.
I could not get my head around the engine plates. so I spent a lot of time pre-fitting, making sure the new bolts went through them as the holes had been reduced with the powder coating.
The frame needed a lot of wooden blocks to get it level.
I dropped a bloody washer through the dynamo hole and into the timing cover! Now recovered and the new alternator fitted
The new engine bolts were all different lengths but no guide on where to put them meant I spent an hour swapping them over.
As I thought, I am missing a crankcase bolt. The bad news I that it is at the bottom and I will have to raise the engine to get it in.
I am missing two of the bolts where the pressed steel support bolts onto the engine. I will get some stainless steel bolts and fit them later.
One of the head stays is too short. I am sure they were fitted when I took the engine out. I will have to make one up.
But it is starting to look like a bike after many months of effort.
John
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The engine plates are a bit of an IQ test. They look so simple but it took me ages to work out how they fitted in. Good luck with the build. S:)
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Looking good John, I've been wondering how to get my engine assy back in and the frame on side hadn't occurred to me, cheers
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All this struggling doesn’t make sense to me. I put the frame on a solid wooden surface – ideally a stout workbench but some wood on the floor will do. What we’re looking for is a solid platform across (underneath) the frame. Find a lump of wood about an inch thick to fit between the frame bottom rails. Another piece an inch thick by around a foot square to sit outside the frame, both resting on your platform. Put engine on this 2nd piece. If the frame is on the floor, stand astride the bike and slide engine across into frame. If it’s on the bench, ‘walk’ it into the frame. No gut-busting heaving required, just two minutes work for one person.
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Yeah but that's the easy way!
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Hi JHG,
Have a look at the A7-A10 Engine section for the post "Just Wondering???(removal of the engine). It's quite recent. On page 2 you'll find a description of my engine fitting frame. Works a treat even with the mag and dynamo pre-fitted.
However purpose of this post is to tell of a problem I met with the gear box fitment. Like yourself I used a new bolt kit. Note that BSA used studs with a nut on each end. One bolt sits tight behind the foot rest mounting. If it is fitted left to right as I did the bolt head prevents the pegged footrest spacer being fitted. If I had fitted it the other way I could have removed the nut tapped the bolt back and had an easy life. A stud would have allowed the same thing. In the end, to save a week of needless spanering, I ground a big chamfer on the inside edge of the spacer and could just knock it into place. Not nice but it's quite solid. You would think that the suppliers could send a simple note with their product about location and fitting direction. *smile*
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Thanks for the advice littleguns.
Unfortunately my bolt kit only had engine bolts and they were threaded both ends. I used the old bolts on the gearbox. One of these bolts had a strange bolt head. It was thin and slightly domed with only two flats on it. Now I know why.
John
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Hi JHG,
Wish i'd had one of those bolts, but again without any guidance I'd have probably fitted it in the wrong place. Excellent picture. I'm sure it will help others *smile*
Len
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Thanks for the advice littleguns.
Unfortunately my bolt kit only had engine bolts and they were threaded both ends. I used the old bolts on the gearbox. One of these bolts had a strange bolt head. It was thin and slightly domed with only two flats on it. Now I know why.
John
That style of bolt was used a lot in the '30s' model BSA's eg Slopers. Also plunger/ ridged singles for the gearbox mounts.
Can't remember seeing them on A10's though.