The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: Worty on 02.04. 2024 14:20
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Fellas! I want to put an tap directly onto the oil tank feed so I can prevent wet sumping by turning it on and off (it empties the tank completely in a few days). I believe the thread onto the tank is 1/4 BSP, which means the oil pipe is the same. The plan is to screw the tap directly onto the tank, and the feed line onto the tap. The main issues are how to make the connections oil tight, especially as there's a 'conical' end to the armoured pipe which goes into the tank connection. I can use a combination of genius and rubber piping, but wanted to avoid over complicating the issue. Happy to see other members' solutions if they have them.
Don't worry, I WILL take major precautions to switch the oil back on before riding. *eek* *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *good3* *beer* *beer*
This is what I was looking at.
https://www.pipeworksuppliers.co.uk/products/stainless-steel-316-bspp-mini-ball-valve-male-x-female-1?variant=39296699957411¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2021-04-14&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2a6wBhCVARIsABPeH1spu9a3vcghR3I6_NFnd5swY7GGhiI-99ubs-zImMG4IN7a4-dbLrgaAmZoEALw_wcB
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Attenion Berger. New work coming your way.
Hopefully kidding, but this is known risky business. Everyone here will tell you, "Don't leave it to your memory."
Richard L.
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Why not get one of the ones that has a connection to the mag cutout so you can't forget it?
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Don't worry guys, I KNOW I won't forget (famous last words, eh). *eek* *eek*
As Richard says, Bergs is on alert. *wink2* As for the maggie set up, it's a bit pricey (ok, not as much as a motor). *pull hair out*
I have 'skills' when it comes to remembering important stuff, and I always use back up plans, so fret not my friends. *dunno* *dunno*
Anyhow, I'll take my chances and see what happens - any tips on the connections apart from the obvious. 👍👍👍
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worty you tight sod get your hand in your pocket and put an extra 35 £'s to your original tap and have no worries. on the other hand forget to turn it on and take it to rivet man. *wave* *beer* *whistle*
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"Hang on a minute lads, I've got a great idea."
Worty: "Bergs, I have a very, very, very cunning plan." Bergs: "Is it as cunning as a fox what used to be Professor of Cunning at Oxford University but has moved on and is now working for the U.N. at the High Commission of International Cunning Planning?" Worty: "No, it's more cunning than that!"
Don't worry, I can assure you all that I won't forget the oil........................................DOH *doh* *doh* *doh* *doh* *doh*
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You could do worse than fitting a Velocette one (readily available) in the feed line. I believe this has been done before.
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The biggest lie you can tell your self is, I WON'T FORGET THAT *sad2*
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The Magneto Guys tap looks the obvious choice, but I can see Worty's dilemma when it comes to the money. A simple circuit with a plunger type switch operated by the tap handle in the closed position is one way of doing it, but these lash ups are by no means fail safe.
Note that many taps are not full bore, so check the open tap hole is no smaller than the bore of the feed pipe. Screwfix and the rest of them are a reasonable source for simple on/off fittings.
Swarfy.
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You could do worse than fitting a Velocette one (readily available) in the feed line. I believe this has been done before.
The Velo item is a nice sturdy component too and works fine on mine, but enough Velo owners change them out for manual taps so they aren't fit-and-forget either.
As the taps are only turned off when the bike is garaged again, why not just make up a sign to hang on the speedo or whatever?
Swarfy makes a good point though, the bore size of some of those taps (the oil supply not being pumped but by gravity) is relatively small compared to the pipe size.
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Baldrick errrrm Worty listen to your mates having nearly lost a motor to an automatic valve going wrong spend a bit of cash and get the right bit of kit. ( I hadn't checked the return to the tank after 3 mins I remembered to see nothing coming back and I checked this religiously but that one day nearly cost me dearly )
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I didn't want an automatic as I didn't want to trust something so important to a ball and spring bit of kit. I get everyone's concerns, but I'm 'UBER' careful with this stuff. This is from a bloke who does a pre-ride inpsection of everything, every time. Chains, oil levels, tyres, various nuts and bolts, lights, fuel level, oil return (EVERY time I start it), etc. I never just jump on and ride, not even on the Kwaka, I always do my pre-ride checks, even to the point of rotating the tyres to see if I have anything stuck in them - OCD I reckon! I was stung by RM's debacle to the tune of mucho wonga, and always have that in mind too. *angry* *angry*.
For the reminder, I'm attaching a piece of string from the fuel tap to the oil tap that runs over the seat. It would take an imbecile not to think, 'hmm, I wonder which imbecile put a piece of string from the fuel tap to the oil tap, never mind, I'll ignore it'. the item I'm getting has an advertised 7mm bore, which I believe will be enough (I measure my oil lines at around the same). Will check anyway. I was hoping to screw the tap and lines on without tails, so it'll mainly be the bore via the ball valve itself that I will have to double check. *beer* *beer*
Watch this space *smile*
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The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week. To make matters worse the failure mode is laying down new memories not recalling old ones, so your recall of the work you did on the bike two years ago will be unchanged, but the recollection that you fitted a tap two months ago may fail. Its why reminders fail. You see lots of videos of old bikes with a note on the tank or bars "oil tap" and that works for a while, but one day you look at it and think, ""yes I must get one of those". When you get to "who put that note there?" its time to stop.
I've just lapped the pump faces, re-seated the ball and fitted a new spring. I've also tapped and fitted a drain in the sump plate and I've got a clean jar to drain the sump oil to put it back in the tank. I'm hoping it doesn't wet sump, but if it does my plan is not to fit a valve.
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The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week. To make matters worse the failure mode is laying down new memories not recalling old ones, so your recall of the work you did on the bike two years ago will be unchanged, but the recollection that you fitted a tap two months ago may fail. Its why reminders fail. You see lots of videos of old bikes with a note on the tank or bars "oil tap" and that works for a while, but one day you look at it and think, ""yes I must get one of those". When you get to "who put that note there?" its time to stop.
I've just lapped the pump faces, re-seated the ball and fitted a new spring. I've also tapped and fitted a drain in the sump plate and I've got a clean jar to drain the sump oil to put it back in the tank. I'm hoping it doesn't wet sump, but if it does my plan is not to fit a valve.
Point taken Rob, but if my memory gets that bad, one day I'll forget to drain the oil from the sump, try to kick it up, experience hydraulic lock and possible blow the thing up anyway. So far, I've never forgotten to drain the sump. So, it's either the risk of forgetting the tap, or forgetting to drain the sump. Either way, I've got a potential engine buster which is dependent on memory. I honestly think that if I'm in the position of forgetting the tap, I'm not really safe to maintain the bike properly and shouldn't be on the road anyway.
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My solution is a 'Remove Before Flight' flag that I put around the oil tap I've fitted every time I turn it off. If I'm out for the day on the bike I don't turn the tap off as it's not going to drain too much in a day, so the tap is only turned off if the bike is being left for a few days. The flag is a reminder to turn the tap on before the bike is wheeled out of the shed.
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My solution is a 'Remove Before Flight' flag that I put around the oil tap I've fitted every time I turn it off. If I'm out for the day on the bike I don't turn the tap off as it's not going to drain too much in a day, so the tap is only turned off if the bike is being left for a few days. The flag is a reminder to turn the tap on before the bike is wheeled out of the shed.
Yes Tim, exactly this. To me, it's just about getting into a mindset and routine about the bikes. When I was a kid riding around the countryside, the farmers cut the hedges and left the cuttings all over the road. On a little 100cc Yam with thin tyres, punctures were common. My partial solution was to check the tyres round, on the road, after I'd passed, as most punctures occurred by leaving a thorn in that'd be pushed further and further into the tyre. The same diligence is with me now and, although mistakes can be made, all one can do is mitigate the risk as much as is practicable (and affordable in my case).
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It’s the as yet unforeseen scenarios that will lead to the engine being started with the oil tap off. After working on the bike being one, being interrupted during the starting ritual being another, countless others.
It would be cheaper to fix the wet sumping issue. The unforeseen WILL happen.
Just my 2 cents worth *sad*
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The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week.
It's getting into a "set routine" with a certain bike. Bikes with total loss oil systems (Scotts being one) have to have the oil turned on, and (as Worty says) it just becomes a part of the starting routine.
Obviously fixing the sumping issue is the ideal solution, but I don't see too much wrong with a tap and large sign in the short-term.
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Rex, you've just reminded me of my two stroke Yam YB100 that had a separate tank for the 2 stroke oil rather than being ready mixed in the tank. Although it didn't have a tap, if you didn't check it and you ran out of oil, the engine would seize. I got into the habit of checking it daily as I was doing around 20,000 miles per year on it at the time and we used to buy 25 litre drums of the stuff.
I am really good at forming habits around routine things (to blow my own trumpet), especially if there's the possibility of it costing me a lot of cash. Ironically, I entrusted RM to build the engine as I didn't trust my own abilities, and that cost me dearly. After Bergs rebuilt the motor, I owe it to him to take care of it.
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Well, what's the simple, safe pragmatic solution?
Just fit a sump plate with a drain plug. 2 minutes to undo, drain, and retighten before each ride.
?
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Well, what's the simple, safe pragmatic solution?
Just fit a sump plate with a drain plug. 2 minutes to undo, drain, and retighten before each ride.
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Been doing that for ages - my concern is if I'm away from home for a few days and I don't have an oil pan and spanner to hand. I do have a couple of irritating oil leaks too, so keeping as much oil out of the sump is preferable.
Anyway, in the event I forget to turn the tap off after a ride, that'd be my back up. *good3*
I would turn the tap on and off after every use anyway, just to consolidate the habit in my brain. I never forget to turn the petrol on, so I know it'd be the same for the oil.
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I would search for a brass On/Off valve in preference to stainless steel, it will most probably be nickel or chrome plated anyway, and if the face of the BSP thread is not flat for provision of some kind of sealing washer, easier to correct.
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Topdad -------- Baldrick *clap* *lol* *lol* *lol* *lol* *yeah* *wink2* *good3*
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The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week. To make matters worse the failure mode is laying down new memories not recalling old ones, so your recall of the work you did on the bike two years ago will be unchanged, but the recollection that you fitted a tap two months ago may fail. Its why reminders fail. You see lots of videos of old bikes with a note on the tank or bars "oil tap" and that works for a while, but one day you look at it and think, ""yes I must get one of those". When you get to "who put that note there?" its time to stop.
I've just lapped the pump faces, re-seated the ball and fitted a new spring. I've also tapped and fitted a drain in the sump plate and I've got a clean jar to drain the sump oil to put it back in the tank. I'm hoping it doesn't wet sump, but if it does my plan is not to fit a valve.
the other option will be to tell your wife to remind you THEY NEVER FORGET ANYTHING *smile*
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The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week. To make matters worse the failure mode is laying down new memories not recalling old ones, so your recall of the work you did on the bike two years ago will be unchanged, but the recollection that you fitted a tap two months ago may fail. Its why reminders fail. You see lots of videos of old bikes with a note on the tank or bars "oil tap" and that works for a while, but one day you look at it and think, ""yes I must get one of those". When you get to "who put that note there?" its time to stop.
I've just lapped the pump faces, re-seated the ball and fitted a new spring. I've also tapped and fitted a drain in the sump plate and I've got a clean jar to drain the sump oil to put it back in the tank. I'm hoping it doesn't wet sump, but if it does my plan is not to fit a valve.
the other option will be to tell your wife to remind you THEY NEVER FORGET ANYTHING *smile*
Damn straight *evil* *evil* *evil*
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Was talking to a guy at a car meet on the weekend, he said "when I get home I'm going to give the wife a good listening to" *smile*
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Surely if the bike is wet sumping that badly there is a bigger issue that needs sorting. Mine will get slightly smoky after four to six weeks of inactivity but not to any major extent. Perhaps its time for a deeper look?
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Surely if the bike is wet sumping that badly there is a bigger issue that needs sorting. Mine will get slightly smoky after four to six weeks of inactivity but not to any major extent. Perhaps its time for a deeper look?
Point taken Slymo! I'm still not clear in my head where the ball bearing is that's supposed to prevent w/s. However, I do know that my motor has been stripped more than a Soho dancer, so I'm unwilling to do that again (especially as it's only done 1100m since the Bergs rebuild). Other than the w/s, the oil returns as it should, and the motor sounds as smooth as a nut. The old adage of 'it it ain't broke, don't fix it' springs to mind - or in my case, 'if it ain't broke a lot, don't fix it a lot'. *beer* *beer*
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Worty, I'm late to contribute as usual, but just in case you decide differently.
My swing arm A10 only wet sumped about a cup full after about two weeks of idleness, so I made a point of riding it before it got any worse. Luckily for me now . . . as I can’t ride for another 8 months, in 2021 I fitted one of The Magneto Guys cut out taps. Admittedly it cost £49.50, plus the other bits I had to buy to fit it, but for me it was well worth it.
Takes away the risk of forgetting to turn it on, you’ve just got to remember to turn it on before kicking over, which I did a couple of times initially and wondered why my bike wouldn’t start - until it dawned on me!
Just in case, here's a photo and being a bit pedantic sections of my drawing of how I fitted mine. Drawing in sections as too big for here and you wouldn't read it.
Rog.
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Firstly I'm in the camp that says there's another problem. Over years of BSA's I've found they get about 1/2 pint in the sump after a month or two and will soon clear it in a few minutes of idling.
The little ball is under a screw on the inside of the timing side crankcase next to the plain bush. Assume the screw will not come out and order a new screw, ball and spring. You give the seat the smallest wipe with a drill then put the ball on it and give it a decent whack with a flat ended punch so form the seat. I did this a few weeks ago and tested the new spring. I reckon it would take a psi or two to lift it so it holds back against the pump flow enough to stop the oil under gravity but opens as soon as the pump is running. Mine was full of all sorts of gunk so its possible yous is stuck open or the spring has bust.
If you go down the tap route buy the one with the switch. You will easily spend close on that with an industrial ball valve one you've got adapters, sorted the taper vs strait BSP and got the bore opened up. Then there's the explaining every time someone looks at it and sees the tap they will say "did you know you can get one that shuts of the mag for £45.." and you will reply though gritted teeth "yes but I preferred to save £20 and spend 2 hours more and look I have this little rag I tie on the bars.." I'd spend the money to avoid that alone.
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Cheers Rob. I reckon it must be stuck or bust as Bergs built the engine and it was as clean as it was ever going to get. There were a lot of issues with the engine initially as it was built by an incompetent we now refer to as RM. If you ever have a chance, go to Worty's A10 Engine Rebuild and look at what Bergs found - it was a complete horror story.
I won't be taking the motor apart just for this issue, it's just not worth it as I prefer to be on the road than have the bike in pieces again. When this engine blows (if it does), there won't be any repairs or rebuilds as it'll be going for spares. Bergs and MWAS (his brother) saved the motor from the scrap heap with much work and skill, so it's as good as it'll ever be.
I'm going to take a stab at the job with the item I've ordered, and see what happens. My only concern, at present, is the ID bore on the ball valve itself. I believe it's the same as the metal part of the oil line, but I'll check. Not bothered about comments or remembering to turn it on, I have my methods one way or another. *good3*
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Been thinking on this. If you take the oil pump off the little ball will be facing you about 3/4" inside the upper front hole (I think). You should be able to feel it with a gentle prod with a kebab stick or tooth pick. As you say, perhaps its not been put in right.
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Been thinking on this. If you take the oil pump off the little ball will be facing you about 3/4" inside the upper front hole (I think). You should be able to feel it with a gentle prod with a kebab stick or tooth pick. As you say, perhaps its not been put in right.
Cheers Rob, but as Bergs built the motor, I've no doubt it's been put in correctly. Whatever the issue, I don't believe it was present when it was rebuilt this time. If I do have need to remove the pump, I'll have a check to see if the ball moves against the spring smoothly. I'm guessing that it may be possible to remove the ball and spring with a strong magnet and replace in reverse. This may sound like rubbish, but is a bit more tech than what I'm used to. Is the 'upper front hole' obvious once the pump is removed?
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Ooops:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt0IrMgQumA
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worty the ball and spring that came out of the damaged and messed with crank case half on your engine went back in and a codged up oil pump went on as well { the best i could do out of 4 and several days of misery if i remember correctly resulting in me nearly claiming for mental health issues and no finger prints left, mind you that could be an advantage *lol*] i spent days trying to make up a pump that would turn without the steam raised on the titanic needed to making it spin knowing i had to keep the price down.... the one thing i did bully you into was buying my brand new ATD that i really wanted to keep because there was no way i was putting that other piece of scrap on......NOW TAKE 50£s out of your moth eaten wallet and put a valve into the oil line that will prevent you from starting it without oil flow , you have my permission to leave it open after your ride and i think you may well do that....you saved over a grand by not letting it go to srm , mind you if they had seen the mess that i saw they would have scrapped it and tried to sell you another motor for 3 grand, they wouldn't have wanted to waste their time doing the bag of scrap , now be a good boy and order the fkn valve that will stop your problem. ps what oil have got in it and don't get mardy like some people do and take this badly, luv ya *wave* pps just a few reminders of the mess. now be a good boy and put a proper valve in like roger did , job done!!!!!
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Heh, it's ok Bergs, trust me *eek* *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *pull hair out*
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worty i have a few spare washing machine water valves, red and blue take your pick , brass gate valves , brass up and over steam valves , modern day crappy household screw driver operated isolation valves that fail miserably when you need them to work, all these are free and all you have to do is pipe them up.....but best of all i have a pair of 50 year old mole grips that you can lock on to your oil pipe every time you leave the bike .. just like those cut corner mechanics do on flexi brake pipes, these come at a price though because they don't trap any skin like some of the newer ones do. *problem*
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Cheers Bergs, but I have one of those submarine valves which is so large I won't be able to get on the seat - so no danger of seizing it up. *wink2* *wink2* *wink2* *good3* *good3* *beer* *beer* *beer*
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Jeez!!! If bergs had a pressure gauge it would be off the scale by now......
Worty. That pesky valve is in the top hole nearest the timing bush. It consists of a ball bearing pushed under light spring pressure onto a crude seating,( as detailed by Rob,) towards the pump. It cannot be accesses from outside, only by splitting the cases. Later A65 design overcomes this, and is an A10 modification detailed on the Forum. With the pump removed the ball can be pushed off its seat with a matchstick or similar, and be felt to return.
For those folks in a similar situation, crude way of cleaning the oilway and seat is to remove the pump, hold the valve open and apply aerosol solvent cleaner, eg carb, brake ,WD to the centre hole where the PRV Mounts. This should backflow any debris in the oilway. Follow with a a good dose of compressed air, valve still held open, finally pump oil down the oilway, observe exit from the PRV hole. Pumping oil the other way from the PRV should result in no flow from that pump oilway if the ball and seat are good. A weak, broken or jammed spring means the valve won't seal well enough to prevent draindown.
I'd stress this is not ideal, but can go some way to improving the sealing of the ball without major dismantling, if the problem is muck and sediment sludge on the seat and ball. Simply pushing solvent down the oilway washes debris to the timing bush, BAD, at least this method keeps trash out of the motor.
Those cases look simply stunning for attention to detail, so I doubt simply cleanliness is a factor. Ball in cam feed still an enigma. Fair play to MWAS and bergs for bringing it back from the brink. Give it a present, punt the switch, sleep easy.
Swarfy.
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Cheers Swarfy! Bergs is a tough ol' bird though, and I have no illusions as to what comments he'd make if I forget to switch the oil on (won't happen though, trust me). *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *pull hair out*😱😱😱
I do appreciate people's concerns about forgetting but, let's face it, some things are far more dangerous to forget - like forgetting the wedding anniversary, for example. *pull hair out* *pull hair out*😱😱😨😨
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Worty,
You are a lesson in sticking to your guns and believing in yourself against all well-meaning advice.
Richard L.
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Worty,
You are a lesson in sticking to your guns and believing in yourself against all well-meaning advice.
Richard L.
Cheers Richard, you wouldn't believe the half of it, and I appreciate the compliment. Having said that, I totally accept the intent of the well-meaning advice, and I appreciate people's concerns! I've always taken a laissez-faire, slightly risky, approach to life - why do you reckon I got married *ex* *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *pull hair out* *razz* *beer* *beer* *beer* *beer*
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I have faith that you will not forget Worty (you cannot possibly after all this and even if you do I'm absolutely sure that you would not share it on here LoL) *smile*.....
however, I am intrigued to see your solution and setup, if you would like to share it with some pics afterwards (if you dare Lol!!). After looking at Rogers pics with the Magneto Guys stuff, I'm interested to see how neatly this can be done, cheers...
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I have faith that you will not forget Worty (you cannot possibly after all this and even if you do I'm absolutely sure that you would not share it on here LoL) *smile*.....
however, I am intrigued to see your solution and setup, if you would like to share it with some pics afterwards (if you dare Lol!!). After looking at Rogers pics with the Magneto Guys stuff, I'm interested to see how neatly this can be done, cheers...
No probs Jules, would be happy to (and thanks for the vote of confidence!). My goal is to make the setup work as unobtrusively as possible and in the simplest way. I was trying to get a ball valve with a 'coned' end so it'd fit the existing pipe more easily, and then screw the tap directly onto the oil feed on the tank. I may get stuck for space, especially if I need to use a coned adapter on the valve body, so I'll see how I get on.
Full updates on their way!
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So, my goal to make the setup work as unobtrusively as possible and in the simplest way seems to have worked (see pics). *woo*
I was faffing for an hour trying different combinations from the oil tank end wondering where I'd get the space for the plumbing I was planning. Then, with a moment's inspiration, I thought, "What about the crankcase end." Bingo, *bright idea* I removed the gear lever (for better access), then the return pipe and speedo drive (again for access), removed the feed pipe at the adapter and screwed the tap straight on to the adapter and the oil line onto the tap. I even managed to locate the tap out of sight so it doesn't look out of place. No cutting of hoses, excessive plumbing, etc, etc, and no-one will notice it's there unless they really look. Ok, so you have to get on your hands and knees to reach it, but it serves my purposes in it solving my issue, not spoiling the look of the bike, being discreet, and being inexpensive - very pleased! *woo* *woo* *woo* *good3* *good3* *beer* *beer* *beer* *beer*
Part used was as follows and takes about half an hour at a leisurely pace:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134968355064
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Most impressed, some clever thinking there, neat cost effective solution.
Might need to add label to bike with instruction for starting, just incase you are not about.
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Cheers BB. Would be a shock to anyone trying to nick it when it seizes up after a few miles though. Sure, the engine will be knackered, but that's what insurance is for *wink2*
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… if I remember correctly resulting in me nearly claiming for mental health issues…
In all fairness, wasn’t this point already past? *smil* *fight* *beer*
Richard L.
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… if I remember correctly resulting in me nearly claiming for mental health issues…
In all fairness, wasn’t this point already past? *smil* *fight* *beer*
Richard L.
It begins...........😨😨😨😱👍
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I think the valve body should be painted bright red or iridescent green. Who would you be worried might notice it? It affords a belt and suspenders reminder to go with your otherwise perfect, but, let’s face it, memory not getting better with years. If you find yourself abused by the color as time goes on you can remove it (the paint, that is).
Richard L.
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True about who would notice it. One thing that would be noticeable is the sound of grinding metal and imminent failure if I should happen to forget. *eek*
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good job Worty, very neat and unobtrusive.... now about the memory LoL! good luck mate *good3*
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There is a graphic demonstration of the consequences of failing to turn on the oil tap on an A65 engine being rebuilt on Paul Henshaw's YouTube channel at the moment. The operator obviously guessed what was happening fairly fast so the damage in this case is limited to one journal and she'll bearing on the drive side. Quite lucky really.
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That's not the first nor will it be the last one he's had for this either... *sad2*
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Hi All,
I have a Guzzi single which has a manual oil tap on the tank outlet, the oil tank is fitted up front under the petrol tank so visible when riding the bike.
All the same I have a sticker on the steering damper knob that reads 710 *????*
John
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Hi All,
I have a Guzzi single which has a manual oil tap on the tank outlet, the oil tank is fitted up front under the petrol tank so visible when riding the bike.
All the same I have a sticker on the steering damper knob that reads 710 *????*
John
Go on, what is 710?
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Depends where the damper knob ends up.. ;)
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*????* *????*
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C'mon worty you have to be quicker on the draw. think about it *lol*
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C'mon worty you have to be quicker on the draw. think about it *lol*
Nope, still don't geddit. Is there some rude connotation somewhere - brain doesn't compute.
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Rex knows and so should you know, *pull hair out* *bash*
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Maybe Berger is referring to this.
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Berger,
Just realized I may have spoiled the fun of Worty finally kenning to it. Sorry about that.
Richard L.
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Berger,
Just realized I may have spoiled the fun of Worty finally kenning to it. Sorry about that.
Richard L.
N(D)ope, never heard of it so never would have got it. Get the 'oil' bit totally (in terms of the two types), but the rest of it is lost on me. There was never any mention of this 'back in the day'. Either that, or I was too 'distracted' to notice - where the hell did that all come from?
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Worty o dear forget the dope , dope , Rex nailed it for you , turn the damper rod knob [ haha pun intended] 180 degrees and what will it read?
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My find was 10 seconds on Google.
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Ah, yeah, but maybe I'd forget to turn the damper knob and spend so much time wondering why 710 was written there I'd forget to turn the oil tap on. *wink2* *wink2* *wink2* *good3*
Where the hell did that crap come from anyway - guess I was never really part of the 'scene' but partied like a fool anyway *ex*
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Surely if the bike is wet sumping that badly there is a bigger issue that needs sorting. Mine will get slightly smoky after four to six weeks of inactivity but not to any major extent. Perhaps its time for a deeper look?
Point taken Slymo! I'm still not clear in my head where the ball bearing is that's supposed to prevent w/s. However, I do know that my motor has been stripped more than a Soho dancer, so I'm unwilling to do that again (especially as it's only done 1100m since the Bergs rebuild). Other than the w/s, the oil returns as it should, and the motor sounds as smooth as a nut. The old adage of 'it it ain't broke, don't fix it' springs to mind - or in my case, 'if it ain't broke a lot, don't fix it a lot'. *beer* *beer*
This is what your looking for but need to split the cases to find it … note the difference in spring length with the original that been compressed since 62 and the new one
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Sort of strayed off topic there Sean.
Anyhow, I am much the wiser after seeing the item in question. As for my motor, the next time it comes apart, it probably won't be going back together in my lifetime - that'd be a joy for posterity (and so would the anti-wet sumping set up). If I blow the motor, watch this space for a variety of spares.*good3* *beer*
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My old and news springs were very much like that photo. I did notice that the BSA spring had proper closed ends and the new replacement was just cut. A small detail but it shows BSA paid attention to detail.
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Hi All,
Sean,
The ASV ball valve only works if the pump does not leak through the joints, spindle, or porosity
Worty, *conf2* *conf2* ,, *bright idea* *bright idea* LOL
John
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Hi All,
Sean,
The ASV ball valve only works if the pump does not leak through the joints, spindle, or porosity
Worty, *conf2* *conf2* ,, *bright idea* *bright idea* LOL
John
Thanks John, I have my moments *eek*
It is nice to see oil (710) still in the tank (and the electrics working now I've put a working battery on) *woo* Apart from the oil leak from the speedo drive and (AGAIN) the l/h fork seal, I feel the bike is now *complete* in the sense everything is working and it's running beautifully (hats off to Bergs and MWAS again). When it's running like this, I don't want to be on anything else! *woo* *woo*
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Hi All,
Sean,
The ASV ball valve only works if the pump does not leak through the joints, spindle, or porosity
Worty, *conf2* *conf2* ,, *bright idea* *bright idea* LOL
John
Thanks John, I have my moments *eek*
It is nice to see oil (710) still in the tank (and the electrics working now I've put a working battery on) *woo* Apart from the oil leak from the speedo drive and (AGAIN) the l/h fork seal, I feel the bike is now *complete* in the sense everything is working and it's running beautifully (hats off to Bergs and MWAS again). When it's running like this, I don't want to be on anything else! *woo* *woo*
I put the blue pump in no problems with wet sumping since doing both the spring/ball and pump
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Blue pump??
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worty blue pump
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One of these:
https://shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/srm-a7-a10-oil-pump-kit-billet-high-delivery
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Hi All,
I have fitted SRM pumps to several project bikes I built including my own,
I have also modified a few to the A65 nrv spring and ball fitted behind the pump.
The last engine I built was a huntmaster and it got a hepolite pump, as no blue pumps available at the time *sad2*
It is running great and no wetsumping either..
I have heard reports that there can be problems with the hepolite pumps, indeed the first one supplied was drilled incorrectly so the fixing bolts broke through into the oilways, I wrote about that at the time on here..
John
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Say, that's a nice pump - can I have one?
Argggghhhhh, just seen the price :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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Say, that's a nice pump - can I have one?
Argggghhhhh, just seen the price :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
G'day Worty.
Yes the pretty blue pump ain't cheap. I resisted for a long while but bit the bullet on the recent plunger rebuild. It 99% cured the wet sumping.
I'd love to put one on the Cafe but I'd have to drill holes in it for the end feed conversion. Maybe Johns reject Hepolite would do!
Cheers
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Say, that's a nice pump - can I have one?
Argggghhhhh, just seen the price :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
G'day Worty.
Yes the pretty blue pump ain't cheap. I resisted for a long while but bit the bullet on the recent plunger rebuild. It 99% cured the wet sumping.
I'd love to put one on the Cafe but I'd have to drill holes in it for the end feed conversion. Maybe Johns reject Hepolite would do!
Cheers
Forget it Musky, I'm on the way round to John's now with fifty quid and a bottle of scotch. *smile*