The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: limeyrob on 06.04. 2024 10:39
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I'm putting the bottom end of my A10 together this weekend. The new sludge trap is in and so are the new flywheel bolts and I'm setting the end-float.
New TS bush and shells and crank grind.
Question is what do people do about pre-filling the sludge trap with oil? Also the oil-ways to the relief valve and oil pump?
I will coat everything in oil and i will motor the engine on a paddock starter with the plugs out but the sludge trap has a lot of volume.
Thanks
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In less enlightened times folks oiled the journals, bolted on the rods, got it all back together with a dab of oil here and there, kicked it over and fired it up. That was me in 1972.
This time I would cover the big end journal oil holes with a piece of masking tape, leave off the timing side sludge plug, put the crank on it's side and fill the trap with oil, then fit the plug. OK, a bit messy but in the first few seconds of running the big ends need to be well lubed, and when it comes to assembling the rods there will be plenty of oil oozing onto your nice clean and polished journals.
Swarfy.
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That's exactly why I asked, I too would have given it all a wipe of oil and started it up just as I too did in the 70's but somehow that seems wrong now *smile*
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i use millers oils assembly lubricant, a very sticks like glue assembly oil that takes care of crank , camshaft etc etc on first start up. it is good initial protection , job done.
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Hi All,
A good old fashioned pressure oil can with a tapered end to the spout is what I use,
Before fitting the oil pump inject oil into the feed to the crank, keep pumping until you get drips of oil out the sump plate hole or until you get a hydraulic lock
Then fit the pump and inject oil into the feed connection on the crankcase,
Put oil in the tank and wait until it flows out the e d of the feed pipe before connecting
it..
John
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I'm putting the bottom end of my A10 together this weekend. The new sludge trap is in and so are the new flywheel bolts and I'm setting the end-float.
New TS bush and shells and crank grind.
Question is what do people do about pre-filling the sludge trap with oil? Also the oil-ways to the relief valve and oil pump?
I will coat everything in oil and i will motor the engine on a paddock starter with the plugs out but the sludge trap has a lot of volume.
Thanks
I oil everything as normal on assembly then use gravity and a hose on a funnel connected to the in feed line ….and turn the motor over on the srm comp nut until oil comes out the return line
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All good stuff, though I'm surprised no-one's mentioned the old nonsense about "taking the bike for a walk" yet.
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Its not nonsense, I've done it but its damn hard work even with the plugs out. Its surprising how far you have to walk in 4th to get a return.
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Its not nonsense, I've done it but its damn hard work even with the plugs out. Its surprising how far you have to walk in 4th to get a return.
And a long walk back , getting too old for pushing bikes, the SRM pump was a bitch to bleed had an air lock , took a bit of cranking the speed wrench until I tipped the motor up ang got the air bubble out
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I managed to get a return from my SRM oil pump just by kicking it over. Mind you I had problems getting it to start.
So it can be done.
John
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Since i posted this tread I've gone and bought a 12v paddock starter so I'll be using that. Its overpriced and now I've seen how its made I'd make my own but its already sorted another bike which needed priming and had a stiff engine from a rebuild (and probably standing for several years).
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Since i posted this tread I've gone and bought a 12v paddock starter so I'll be using that
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Wow no expense spared Rob how much did that set you back?
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Too much. £500 and I reckon I could make it for under £100 now i see how its made. I needed it because I had bought a project Matchless with a rebuilt engine that was just too stiff to get a decent kick. Its not yet road registered so I couldn't insure it or push it up and down the road. The options were get it picked up by a local bike shop (they are very good) and pay them to start it and run it for a while or buy the starter. Since the A10 will also need a first start soon I bought the starter. It did the job, motored the Matchless for a series of 30 second runs with the plug out then started it. Now after about 45 mins running it starts on the kick starter. If the same happens with the A10 once that's freed up I'll put the starter on e-bay for (say) 3-400 and treat it as part of the rebuild costs.
Its a useful tool but no good as a replacement for kick starting since you can't take it with you on a ride.
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Its not nonsense, I've done it but its damn hard work even with the plugs out. Its surprising how far you have to walk in 4th to get a return.
It's nonsense in the respect that it's not needed. BSA (or any other manufacturer come to that) didn't do it, they just made sure the relevant parts were lubed on assembly.
Apart from which, how many engine revolutions would you get pushing it in top gear for say, quarter of a mile? Probably as many as actually running the engine for a few seconds, which would be OK to do as the engine's been lubed when being rebuilt.
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I think its worth it. I see now that many "super cars" (OK an A10 is not in that club *smile*) have electric oil priming pumps so the oil pressure is up before the engine starts. After an oil change I on my vehicles I motor on the starter until I see a flicker on the gauge. We can all agree that a lot of wear occurs in the first few seconds of running and this is about cutting that since we can.
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years ago in the 80's i took mine for a walk in 4th gear ever since then i have well lubed the parts and fired it up noting it takes only a few seconds for returning oil. the only times i have known my bike not to return oil through the return pipe is when i put the pipes on wrong *bash* and when my mate owned it in the 70's and poured stp oil treatment into the tank and it took well over a minute to start returning while we panicked *help*
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I was pretty much the same Bergs back then, but I nowadays do what you and Rex and others do.
(Worth reminding oneself that returning oil doesn't mean much though if you've chucked half a pint down the engine during assembly, just proves the scavenge side works - unless you have a loooong hard look at the return.)
If you were really religious about pushing things in top with the plugs out, or kicking away for ages at risk to kickstart teeth etc, you'd be maybe doing it every oil change, not just after a rebuild, 'cos by the time you've drained tank, sump, oil pipes, filters etc - and probably left things open to drip away while you have a cup of, a Black &T, a smoke *eek*, or a break for some recreational with the beloved (yeah, right), there's norrawholelot in there priming things, just residual 'dirty' on journals, trapped in troughs etc.
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i drain the sump squirt into rocker spindles make sure delivery to engine is full fire it up and watch it speedily flow up the clear pipe to the rockers and tank .