The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: Macbeth on 03.05. 2024 00:03
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Gents I’ve no one around me with any life experience in old BSA’s
I’m getting my A10 back shortly after a complete top to bottom engine rebuild equivalent to the GDP of a small pacific nation (you do not want to know believe me). I’m an habitual oil changer through genetics & will be popping an oil filter in straight away - will mount it on a small bracket clear of everything just in front of the tool box
I’m not keen at all on an inside tool box mount nor steel lines (just my pref). So this leaves it easy to find and fit a quality billet alloy oil filter holder with no real space issues
Obviously I’ll source one which takes a commonly avail filter & I will use temperature / oil rated rubber hoses with quality clamps
Is there anything I need to know re flow rate / pressure with the A10 relative to the oil filter & housing ? Will a standard oil filter mount which takes a typical modern bike K&N, Ryco, HiFlo cartridge filter be sufficient ?
Cheers
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Fitted on last week. I got a Norton Commando aftermarket copy. The key issues are:
Location of the inlet and outlet in relation to the mounting holes. A lot seem to be the opposite of what fits.
Some like the one I got came with fixed pipes, I cut these off and tapped 1/4 BSP. I wanted to tap 3/8 BSF and use BSA oil unions but the holes were too big.
The filter is only important in so far as its a common size. That means you can easily buy replacements and quality ones if you want. If its an oddity you are stuck.
The big problem I didn't foresee is the poor quality of the ally casting, so I would recommend a billet housing as this will give you stronger threads.
My bike came as a bitsa / part cafe racer so I have some flexibility on looks. I've mounted the filter where the engine plate cover would be (mine is missing) and fixed to the bottom of the battery tray. This has required some very tricky pipe making but it makes for a very neat pipe run once it done.
Std engine pipe runs to filter inlet and outlet is about 2 1/2" straight into tank with a short flex section.
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I have used this Morgo filter for the past few years. Much more compact than the Norton type. Takes HF197 filter.
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Just about to do an oil change on our MAZDA 2. The oil filter is tiny!!!! Can diameter 66mm, height 66mm. OD of sealing ring 63mm. Dunno what thread, probably metric, ID18.9mm a little larger than most. Cost me £4 + VAT. Coopers FIAAM FT5406. Worth a look.
Swarfy.
Additional. Julian's cross lever is how I like it, see todays brake cable posts. Filter Thread M20 x 1.5 according to web search.
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That's a nice filter unit, looks better made than the one I have just fitted. My swap over if I get problems.
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Unique filter - takes one Royal Enfield 50063A or 888414 element.
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Just about to do an oil change on our MAZDA 2. The oil filter is tiny!!!! Can diameter 66mm, height 66mm. OD of sealing ring 63mm. Dunno what thread, probably metric, ID18.9mm a little larger than most. Cost me £4 + VAT. Coopers FIAAM FT5406. Worth a look
Swarfy.
Additional. Julian's cross lever is how I like it, see todays brake cable posts.
Cheers mate I’ll def go & have a butchers at it. Ideally I’d like a head unit that takes a KN204 the same as my Honda. Easy to have 2 bikes on the same filter
The Guzzi however is inside the bloody sump &$?@!
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Fitted on last week. I got a Norton Commando aftermarket copy. The key issues are:
Location of the inlet and outlet in relation to the mounting holes. A lot seem to be the opposite of what fits.
Some like the one I got came with fixed pipes, I cut these off and tapped 1/4 BSP. I wanted to tap 3/8 BSF and use BSA oil unions but the holes were too big.
The filter is only important in so far as its a common size. That means you can easily buy replacements and quality ones if you want. If its an oddity you are stuck.
The big problem I didn't foresee is the poor quality of the ally casting, so I would recommend a billet housing as this will give you stronger threads.
My bike came as a bitsa / part cafe racer so I have some flexibility on looks. I've mounted the filter where the engine plate cover would be (mine is missing) and fixed to the bottom of the battery tray. This has required some very tricky pipe making but it makes for a very neat pipe run once it done.
Std engine pipe runs to filter inlet and outlet is about 2 1/2" straight into tank with a short flex section.
I see a lot of plastic housings about. I’ll def grab a billet unit 👍
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Ok after 4-5 days reading as much as I can find I’m pretty much ok with it. I’ve got too much dosh into this to mess up a new engine
My last question - with a simple Norton filter put in the return line of a 1960 A10 ..do I need to re-rout the tappet feed to ‘after’ the filter
I’m just reading too many conflicting views of “it’s not going to increase tappet oil flow enough to warrant doing” or “your tappets will love it” or “yes def move it to after the filter”
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For regular oil changes at 1000 miles is an additional filter necessary, personally no, just stick with Classic type mineral oil, especially if you are confident in the cleaniness of the sludge trap and oil tank,
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For regular oil changes at 1000 miles is an additional filter necessary, personally no, just stick with Classic type mineral oil, especially if you are confident in the cleaniness of the sludge trap and oil tank,
Cheers
Yep new every thing. Rods ,barrels, pistons, crank sent for a grind, valves, oil pump.. there’s nothing left untouched. After run in it’s going to be on a fleet diesel 20-50 mineral oil same as my Guzzi.
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My view is that the rocker feed comes after the filter. My reasoning is that any restriction after the T off will send more oil to the rockers, and this continuing cycle will result in an ever gradually increasing volume of oil doing a sump, pump, rocker, sump path rather than a sump, pump, tank (with a bleed to the rockers). The result is less oil in the tank, more in the sump, baffled, confused and covered in oil syndrome.
Doing the plumbing is easier, so it's a matter of inserting the filter of your choice in the return line from the pump. Plenty of examples on the Forum.
Swarfy.
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I've got the rocker feed plumbed in as std with the filter ahead of it in the return line. Not expecting any problems. I went for the filter becuse of my bad experience with sludge traps. My plunger Flash blocked and seized taking the skirt off one cylinder in the process, and my A65, would sludge up quite quickly despite regular oil changes. OK the A10 will be pootled about but I don't want another blocked trap
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I've got the rocker feed plumbed in as std with the filter ahead of it in the return line. Not expecting any problems. I went for the filter becuse of my bad experience with sludge traps. My plunger Flash blocked and seized taking the skirt off one cylinder in the process, and my A65, would sludge up quite quickly despite regular oil changes. OK the A10 will be pootled about but I don't want another blocked trap
Cheers mate. So no issues re excess oil going to rockers 👍
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Don't forget this is on the return line so the oil comes out the engine, up the line into the filter then out the filter to the tank where the rocker oil feed splits off. This means the rocker oil feed may be less with a filter in the return, but the easy fix will be to enlarge the holes in the rocker banjo bolt if there's a problem.
The rocker feed take off is near the bottom of the tank about level with the top of the block, the only thing pushing oil to the rockers is the head of oil in the tank and the resistance to flow in the stand pipe.
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Hi Limeyrob, I agree with you except for the bit "This means the rocker oil feed may be less with a filter in the return". As the oil pump is positive displacement, then the filter has no effect on the oil volume returning (unless it is blocked). The ratio of oil flow to Tank vs Rockers depends solely on the relative resisitances to flow of the tank outlet hole size at the top of the tank inner steel tube vs. the rocker banjo orifice size. If they are still standard hole sizes, then the rockers will be getting the designed oil flow.
Col
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Don't give me headache while I'm on my coffee break *smile*
I fear you are right, volume is the same, pressure drop across filter may be irrelevant because the downstream side is set by the height of the stack pipe and hole at the top, its the upstream pressure that's higher not the down stream lower.
Back of the class for me :!
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my oil feed to rockers is after the filter and i have a clear piece of tube fitted, the oil flow is not restricted at all and looks the same as before the filter was fitted. same set up with clear tube
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my oil feed to rockers is after the filter and i have a clear piece of tube fitted, the oil flow is not restricted at all and looks the same as before the filter was fitted. same set up with clear tube
That’s sounds an idea. My issue is I only had the bike a week & put just 60-80klm on it, i checked it had ample oil & return before riding every time then I went to change the oil & found all the metal. I do honestly believe the chap whom sold it to me had no idea. He wasn’t that sort of chap yet barely knew what model A10 it was.
So it’s been away from me being rebuilt since & it’s coming back soon & I wanted to get everything bought & ready for it as soon as it’s back re oil filter fitment. I don’t have the bike in front of me so assuming yours is the same then I should be fine 👍
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Hi Limeyrob, I agree with you except for the bit "This means the rocker oil feed may be less with a filter in the return". As the oil pump is positive displacement, then the filter has no effect on the oil volume returning (unless it is blocked). The ratio of oil flow to Tank vs Rockers depends solely on the relative resisitances to flow of the tank outlet hole size at the top of the tank inner steel tube vs. the rocker banjo orifice size. If they are still standard hole sizes, then the rockers will be getting the designed oil flow.
Col
Tks Col great info 👍