The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: jhg1958 on 14.09. 2025 17:26
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Finally got around to changing the reserve petrol tap a job I have been putting off for ages. I bought a replacement some time ago.
I bought the tap with the right thread but little thought about other aspects.
When I fitted it I noticed the tap had no shoulder on it. I thought I could use ptfe tape to seal the threads but each time I found the threads weeping petrol.
Yesterday I noticed tthe ptfe tape had been stripped off so not that surprising that it was not sealing. This time I put an O ring on and a liberal amount of Hymolar blue and at last success.
I wish remembered where I bought it or when.
John
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Odd that it has no locknut as you need that to lock it in the right position. Some don't seem to mind the plunger pointing in odd awkward directions, but I like mine to be a straight outwards pull.
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i went to the pub so i know nothing but i bet it's chinesium and came with a union jack on the packaging *beer*
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Re sealing the thread:
Wrap the thread tape on in the same direction that the tap screws in; this will ensure it doesn't peal off as the tap is fitted.
Better still, use 569 loktite.
Cheers
Richard
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Firstly they are not original and guess what, I dont care ! I use Paoli (BAP) taps on all my bikes, they dont leak, are not effected by modern fuel and are easy to turn on and off. I have a Moto Guzzi that is 42 years old with them fitted and they still work like new. Dont bother with thread tape, thats designed for water, use 569 (hydraulic sealant) loctite as Richard has suggested.
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Well they are brass (probably India) not chineesum. See the picture of chineesium one that I bought some time ago.
I wrapped the PTFE tape the right way around so that was not the problem. Fortunately the Hymolar is working well.
Loctight 569 is not readily available in the UK. The price of is astronomical.
My main tap is a 1/4 turn flat lever from SJ Engineering. The problem was it was 1/4 BSP so I am a little concerned about flow rates. Why did BSA go for such a big thread?
John
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Who knows, but it's been working for 60+ years so I wouldn't worry too much... ;)
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I bought a set from British Cycle supply they were from India one was ok the other one leaked so bad I threw it way the threads were very loose and it would be too expensive to return .
the sales person did ask me if a set from India would be ok as they were out of stock of the good ones and he said they have had no problems with the Indian version...... probably the ones that had a leak got tossed like mine .
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Since we’re on the subject of taps
Are they suppose to have a lock nut to adjust the direction of the pull?
Because I’m pretty picky like that too!
I found a pair of NOS Ewarts taps many years ago, have been saving them for when the tank gets restored and going to replace the cork seals with new rubber o-rings
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Since we’re on the subject of taps
Are they suppose to have a lock nut to adjust the direction of the pull?
Because I’m pretty picky like that too!
I found a pair of NOS Ewarts taps many years ago, have been saving them for when the tank gets restored and going to replace the cork seals with new rubber o-rings
There seem to be locknuts on the lever types, but I haven't seen them on the stock 1/8 BSP Ewarts ones. Tend to have to use washers (fibre, dowty, whatever) to get them pointing where it's comfortable.
Never tried O rings in lieu of corks, have to say - but when the darn things start leaking I regularly go to cheapo plumbing valves with some mods, which don't leak. (Sometimes I'm lucky and successfully recycle old ones, of which I seem to have a stupid number, some shown in the pic. Occasionally, I'll shell out for new decent quality ones if feeling flush.)
A constant source of joy. Not.
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I bought a packet of new corks off Ebay. Literally 30 seconds is all it takes to have a fully-operational tap.
I like BAP taps if I'm buying new though. No Chinesium crap...I've suffered that too many times after buying a bike.
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Hi All,
I tried the O ring solution, it was a failure in that the fuel still flowed when in the off position . It was also incredibly stiff *ex*
On several BSA models the 3/8 bsp reducer sleeve has a built in filter on the top. These have a shoulder to accept a fibre washer between it and the tank.
John
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I too had a failure with the o ring conversion, the rings seemed to get torn where they cross the drilling in the tap. Also tried the Draganfly conversion which replaced the cork seal with a neoprene one. This sealed OK but it was extremely difficult to operate the tap.
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Not for the rivet counters but……
had these billet taps with petro tape on the threads for years with no leak dramas
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Update
I gave up.
Hylomar failed to keep the petrol from weeping out of the thread for very long, I assume vibrations took its toll. I gave up with this brass tap and bought the same as I have on the LHS SJ engineering on Ebay. As they also supply the adapter it make life easy and the single 1/4" tap seems to be ok for most of my riding.
John
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Firstly they are not original and guess what, I dont care ! I use Paoli (BAP) taps on all my bikes, they dont leak, are not effected by modern fuel and are easy to turn on and off. I have a Moto Guzzi that is 42 years old with them fitted and they still work like new. Dont bother with thread tape, thats designed for water, use 569 (hydraulic sealant) loctite as Richard has suggested.
Are those genuine Paioli (BAP) taps? The ones I've seen that are genuine have Paioli and Made in Italy stamped on them. I recently cancelled an order with an Ebay seller as the listing stated 'Made in England' on them. When I enquired, he said his supplier did not reveal the source of manufacturer. When I pointed out that BAP taps are not made in the UK, but in Italy or India, he offered to cancel the order.
I would suspect that most taps are made either in India (BAP) or China (Wassell).
Can anyone recommend a supplier for a main tap (with tube), that isn't a piece of crap please!
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Can anyone recommend a supplier for a main tap (with tube), that isn't a piece of crap please!
If you're not concerned with originality then I use Pingel taps 6211-BR, they are pricey though
https://pingelonline.com/motorcycle-fuel-valves/6211-br.asp
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After no success with corks sealing. I found gas ball valves, with home made levers work well.
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After no success with corks sealing. I found gas ball valves, with home made levers work well.
They flow a lot, shut off reliably, don’t leak, last a long time and are cheap.
Making a quaint lever sounds like a good project, by the way.
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I've been making some enquires about British made taps as a few sellers seem to be claiming they're 'British made'. After challenging one seller, he said their supplier doesn't supply information on source, another said they were 'imported - both declined to answer any further questions!!
However, one place did respond and say the taps they sell are British made and are manufactured by 'Velocette engineering'. I've had a quick look online, and found a place that seems to sell 'genuine spares', but nothing on a specific company called Velocette engineering that claims to manufacture the taps.
I know you fellas are well connected, and some may own Velos - can you shed any light on this?
Would still like to set up a database of quality parts and spares that have been/are attested to by people on this forum. We've all come across the Chinesium and Indianium that are not fit for purpose, but where do we go for good quality pattern parts that we can rely on?
In the past, I've used TMS and C&D for parts that seem to be ok. CB also sells a good range of bits and pieces at competitive prices. The biggest gamble is Ebay, although genuine used items can be fine.
With all our combined years of experience and fixing these bikes, surely there must be more extant, reputable sellers who will put their name to the stuff they sell??
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That database would only be as good as people's personal experiences though.
Many swear by Feked, while I wouldn't touch them ever again.
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That database would only be as good as people's personal experiences though.
Many swear by Feked, while I wouldn't touch them ever again.
Mixed experiences with Feked. What I don't like is they pull you in with ex VAT prices, then pile on the postage. Four 1/4" ball nipples aren't bad for 96p each (inc VAT), it's the £4 odd postage that puts me off.
I don't get much from them these days, but what I have had has been reasonable up until now.
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velocetteonline.co.uk show a good range of petrol taps. No idea if they are UK made or not.
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Back in the day garden machinery.....Suffolk Colt anyone? and British Seagull outboard engines used Ewarts type fuel taps. You can still get Seagull bits. Here's a link, chosen at random from a few others.
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/british-seagull-outboard-fuel-tap
But as with anything marine and specialised there is a premium to pay. Dunno how these compare with your average Chinesium offering. These must be made of some precious metal!
At this price level even the most neglected original tap is worth saving for the need of a new cork. An in line filter takes care of the damaged or missing original gauze, and as it came fitted to a bike back in the day, an old tap should fit an original tank thread with no problem.
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/british-seagull-outboard-metal-fuel-tap-overhaul-kit
Swarfy.
PS Bought temporary fuel tank, hang on a strap type. Plastic moulding OK, stiching on the strap pulled apart easily, tap is OFF when operating lever in line with the outlet, contrary to any other on/off lever in general use. Should have guessed, made in India.
INDIUM....... PAH!!
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Back in the day garden machinery.....Suffolk Colt anyone? and British Seagull outboard engines used Ewarts type fuel taps. You can still get Seagull bits. Here's a link, chosen at random from a few others.
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/british-seagull-outboard-fuel-tap
But as with anything marine and specialised there is a premium to pay. Dunno how these compare with your average Chinesium offering. These must be made of some precious metal!
At this price level even the most neglected original tap is worth saving for the need of a new cork. An in line filter takes care of the damaged or missing original gauze, and as it came fitted to a bike back in the day, an old tap should fit an original tank thread with no problem.
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/british-seagull-outboard-metal-fuel-tap-overhaul-kit
Swarfy.
PS Bought temporary fuel tank, hang on a strap type. Plastic moulding OK, stiching on the strap pulled apart easily, tap is OFF when operating lever in line with the outlet, contrary to any other on/off lever in general use. Should have guessed, made in India.
INDIUM....... PAH!!
Hasn’t got a very big hole through it.
(https://www.sheridanmarine.com/public/assets/images/shop/stock/1709251200/british-seagull-outboard-replacement-metal-fuel-tap-with-removable-hosetail-fitting-1709568806-l.jpg)
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Maybe fine for those of us who don't ride everywhere with the throttle against the stop, eh TT. *whistle* :-:
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Maybe fine for those of us who don't ride everywhere with the throttle against the stop, eh TT. *whistle* :-:
It’s not about “everywhere.”
It has to be “Never ride with a big throttle opening anywhere at all,” if not enough petrol is getting through.