The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: bakerlonglegs on 27.03. 2016 11:16
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Hello,
I'm working my way through a restoration of a barn-find '53 A10. I've got a load of small parts that are too good to throw away but very rusty and deeply pitted on the outside. Things like wheel spacers, brake arms, steady straps, wheel nuts, etc, etc, where the threads are OK. Smaller nuts, bolts and washers are just being replaced (with the wonderful assistance of Priory Magnetos *smile* ). However, there's a growing pile of stuff which I'm thinking should be OK but just need a tidy up so as not to let the rest of the bike down.
What do you guys do with very pitted stuff like that?
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Wire brush and oily rag, but I'm not restoring.
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There are lots of rust treatments and I prefer this one.....
http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/deox-c
Its a powder you mix with water, keep in a big plastic container with a lid and just give parts a bath in it for a day or so....works well.
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Bench grinder with 6" dia. wire brush wheel or wire brush on a hand electric drill, pickle in dilute phosphoric acid then dry and paint as required.
I keep meaning to set up a small zinc or nickel plating bath but that's still on the 'to do' list.
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Wire brush as above for the loose stuff, and either of molasses (best, but needs subsequent treating), vinegar, phosphoric (seems to be decreasing in content, but sourced some that is 70% and use it neat, but sometimes dilute to suit) and I think chromers (platers) use caustic soda *citation needed
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I used an electrolytic process to de-rust bits. The iron cylinder head and barrel were the most difficult to clean any other way.
I had already set up a large plastic container in the fresh air outside my garage with strong Caustic Soda, (Lye) solution to degrease (ferrous only) items. I left the bits in the caustic for a couple of weeks, checking and turning them every few days, (rubber gloves and safety specs needed). After a pressure wash they showed a nice clean but in places rusty surface.
I found some threads online about using a caustic solution combined with a power source to reverse oxidation. I wired up my old-school battery charger to the BSA chunks one at a time and put a ferrous node, (or is it anode? Google it) in the fluid but not touching the job. Lots of bubbles showed that something was happening. I needed to turn the job around every now and then so the node was in direct line with the various surfaces and after a while the block and head were showing a good gray colour.
Encouraged by my success with electrolysis I attempted zinc plating as shown here: http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/160243-zinc-plating-at-home.html
Some items got zinc plated quite well but anything with deep pitting was not very good, probably not really clean enough. Unfortunately my battery charger got fed up with pumping out serious current during this torture and blew the transformer. I gave up at that point.
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Take them to a metal finishing shop for Zinc Plating, during my rebuild I had a box full of fasteners, bolts, collars, spacers, bushes, brackets etc zinc plated, the finish was great, like a matt chrome, and cost was only £30.00. Turnaround time was 24hrs, and saved me a fortune.
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cover all rusty parts in a container with warm water with accetic acid powder added cheap to buy at homebrew shops soak for 24hrs amazing how clean and rust free they become
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Badly pitted fasteners and spacers which require plating go into the bin. Anything which is painted gets cleaned, filled and painted.
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[quoteI found some threads online about using a caustic solution combined with a power source to reverse oxidation. I wired up my old school battery charger to the BSA chunks one at a time and put a ferrous node, (or is it anode? Google it) in the fluid but not touching the job. Lots of bubbles showed that something was happening. I needed to turn the job around every now and then so the node was in direct line with the various surfaces and after a while the block and head were showing a good gray colour.[/quote]
I also found lots of threads for derusting the inside of fuel tanks, but using sodium carbonate as an electrolyte (washing soda/ soda ash?), instead. I haven't done it though
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This is what you want. It's a Laser gun.
https://youtu.be/CLaBFkeHG0A
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Thanks very much for all the suggestions! *respect*
It's a very exciting time on the project. I'm approaching the first dry build where I get to see this pile of bits form a bike, to check everything does actually go together before I get stuff painted.
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Molassis works well to remove rust but takes a few days to work. Pitted items that are to be painted I sandblast then fill, rub back then paint. Wheel spacers go in the lathe and get a light skim. Flat items I sand on glass with sandpaper on it. FYI a zinc plating kit at home is the restorers BFF *smile*
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"This is what you want. It's a Laser gun."
We, the boys and I, were watching that the other night and had 2 questions...
Is it a hoax?
How much and where?
OK, perhaps that's 3 questions.
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"This is what you want. It's a Laser gun."
We, the boys and I, were watching that the other night and had 2 questions...
Is it a hoax?
How much and where?
OK, perhaps that's 3 questions.
http://www.cleanlaser.de/wEnglish/produkte/high-power-cl-1000.php
Another video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSBGVhzGVxY
And here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQyLqIaXY2Y
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I am fairly sure this has been on here before but in case I am going mad.
Rust has 6 water associated with the molecule Fe203.6 (H20).
The laser boils the water and turns it into super heated dry dissasociated steam and in doing so it blasts the rust from the surface.
It was tried 30 years ago for use on rolling & extrusion billets with limited success.
It worked but was not economical when compared to a man with an angle grinder or scabble gun.
The Aluminium industry then ran with it as oxide on the surface of aluminium billets rips up the roll face.
They also trialed plasma guns again with limited success.
Looks like the control units have gotten better & lasers have gotten cheap enough to make it viable.
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Steel bolts:
Clean with a steam cleaner. A good boil up I at tub.
Rust are removed with a bath in hydrochloric acid.
Sand blasting removes surface rust, but the is a residue of rust In pitting’s after sandblasting, and it will start “growing” again.
The hydrochloric acid removes all rust from the items.
After this treatment : Cu plating and Ni plating, with a DIV kit.
Works well.
http://gaterosplating.co.uk/Bright-Nickel-Plating-Kit.php
or:
http://gaterosplating.co.uk/Zinc-Plating-kit.php