The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Lucas, Ignition, Charging, Electrical => Topic started by: mikeb on 13.01. 2017 21:41
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Hi - this is a new version of an old thread with some LED indicator pics and mounting close-ups, inspired by Brian's question on an old thread: http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=86291;topic=3161.15;last_msg=86308 (http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=86291;topic=3161.15;last_msg=86308)
Brian - first series of pics - these are 12V indicators got via an Aus bike shop but also available on AliExpress for about 25 UK pounds per set. they have a cluster of amber LEDs on a board and changeable lenses. on the A10 the front ones are mounted on a small bracket each side that attaches to the speedo/tacho mounting bolts. so they can be removed with no damage to the bike. at the back they are attached with brackets via the numberplate cap-screw and the bracket wedges in each side against the enclosed tail lamp mount unit.
the LED units are bright enough but a little directional.
the switch block I got via ebay cost less than 10uk pounds and looks like old 70s japanese style. i didnt go for the a65 style switches as they are $$$ and would encourage changing the right hand side too. goes ifne.
the a10 is still 6v so there a small step-up unit inthe headlamp shell, but you wont have that problem.
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next the LED indicators on the b33 plunger (similar tinware to earlier a10s)
same style indicators, got from AliExpress, black as they suited the bike better. to me they look like the old lucas indicator style on a65s etc tho smaller and more discrete. my flasher beeps (useless at speed) but ok at the lights and I can see the indicators as they are mounted high.
the front ones are mounted non-destructively like this: the indicators have a M10 female thread so I got some M10 threaded rod, drilled a hole for wires up the centre (and filed it oval for 2 wires) then turned down one end of the bar (i don't have a lathe so in the hand-drill and against the grinder *eek*) then put a BSCy thread on one end, so it screws into the headdlamp shell nut and secured with a nut on the inside. advantages are no damage or change to the BSA and can be removed in 10 minutes. and looks good.
the rear indicators were easier as the tail lamp mounting unit is open so one bracket holds both indicators and secured to bike by number plate screws.
the switch unit was an experiment in mounting two 'old style' switches together as I ran out of room for two next to each other. it works ok but fiddly and I'm not recommending it. it could be its own thread on good ideas that aren't worth the effort.
I like LED indicators due to their low power use not loading up the dynamo. incandescent indicator bulbs can be over 20W each, then add a tail bulb and brake light (21+5w) and headlamp (60w is decent light) = over 120watts total. plus speedo. the E3L is rated 60 watts. maybe ok if you have a 35W headlamp, no indicators and don't sue your brakes but then you may have other problems.