The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: RoyC on 13.06. 2017 16:27
-
Would this fit my 1958 8inch full width hub ?
It states it;s for Triumph / BSA 8" full width hub.
-
There are problems fitting these.
They are not designed for A7 or A10 forks. The brake was designed to fit 1968 forks which had a longer brake plate anchor lug . In most cases fitting this brake in A7 forks means that the lug does not engage properly and safely with the brake plate. Owners make it fit by building up the brake plate/extending the lug.
Photo shows the difference in length of the fork lugs - 1968 A65 Lightning fork top and A7/A10 fork at bottom.
The brake will fit your hub but the hubs also differ - the A65 hub has a 1 5/8 wide braking surface (A7/A10 1 1/8) and a verticle spoke flange which increases the strength of the hub considerably.
I fitted such a brake to my A10 and at the same time fitted the A65 hub and forks.
There are a number of posts on the forum on this subject.
-
Thanks Julian, I'll give it a miss then.
Roy.
-
It's been done by some, and there a few threads or mention in other threads on here if you do a search.
That one is from a '68, and slightly different to the '69/'70 ones
-
If I had this hub re-rimmed could I use it on my A7 ?
Roy
-
I jammed one into my Road rocket a long time ago, but forget how I did it....chances are you still need to deal with the Anchor lug, and maybe the axle length/clamp stud thingamejiggas
-
I jammed one into my Road rocket a long time ago, but forget how I did it....chances are you still need to deal with the Anchor lug, and maybe the axle length/clamp stud thingamejiggas
Thanks Dutch,
I know about the lug but you say that the spindle would want something doing with it ?
-
I fitted this exact brake to my 63 Super Rocket.
As Julian detailed, the hub anchor required a weld build up.
I ran it in the original A10 hub and wheel for awhile then realized that it due to the width really should be in the matching a65 hub ( also noted by Julian)
I recently made that change and the result is very good braking.
Glen
-
I fitted this exact brake to my 63 Super Rocket.
As Julian detailed, the hub anchor required a weld build up.
I ran it in the original A10 hub and wheel for awhile then realized that it due to the width really should be in the matching a65 hub ( also noted by Julian)
I recently made that change and the result is very good braking.
Glen
I have taken the bull by the horns and purchased it and am having a stainless rim + spokes fitted.
Need something better with a sidecar fitted.
Is there a problem with the spindle fitting ?
-
I didn't have any problem with the axle/spindle.
I used the original 1963 A10 spindle in the A65 hub/wheel.
You will be happy with the new brake Roy.
If you need any advice on arcing shoes to drum and trueing the drum, I have a great and easy method that I lifted from this site, then added a step to.
Glen
-
I didn't have any problem with the axle/spindle.
I used the original 1963 A10 spindle in the A65 hub/wheel.
You will be happy with the new brake Roy.
If you need any advice on arcing shoes to drum and trueing the drum, I have a great and easy method that I lifted from this site, then added a step to.
Glen
Thanks Glen. Could you point me to the method of how to true the drum? I need to true my rear drum, when I had my wheels rebuilt the drums went out of true.
-
.......... but you say that the spindle would want something doing with it ?
I think maybe I also did the same as Glen that time;
I didn't have any problem with the axle/spindle.
I used the original 1963 A10 spindle in the A65 hub/wheel.
I was probably thinking of the issue was grafting the complete '69 wheel into the Plunger using Conical triple clamps- which are a bit wider(?), so needed to cut the stud grooves a bit wider in the axle.
I'd have thought if the rims are laced and tensioned progressively and evenly, they shouldn't pull the drum out of shape... *dunno*
Might be worth doing a dummy installation of the complete hub before lacing the rim on, though I'm not sure it would achieve anything other than progressive fitment
-
Why not go the whole way and fit *smile* a disc brake?
Thats what I normally do anyway
-
The a65 2 leader that Roy bought is very close in appearance to the Eddie Dow Duetto 2, which was the hot setup for A10s and Goldstars back in the day.
I'm not sure exactly when the Duetto 2 first became available, but I have a photo of it on a Goldstar racer on a track somewhere in the 1950s.
It also is powerful enough to lock the front wheel, all you really need.
Glen
-
The arcing of the linings can be done with self adhesive emery paper or sandpaper. I bought a few self adhesive backed sanding discs in 180 grit, then cut strips the same width as the drum. Stick them to the drum, assemble the brake and axle into the wheel on a bench, then turn the brake plate in the hub while applying light pressure to the brake arm.
You could also fully assemble the wheel into the forks and rotate the wheel while applying the brake lightly.
It takes very little effort to remove a lot of brake lining, so be careful not to overdo it. Just take a bit off then check to see if the linings are cut everywhere or if they need another go.
Try the brake out on the road, it may work fine. My 2 ls brake gripped well after this treatment but had pulsation.
This was caused by runout in the drum. To cure that I reversed the emery, sticky side on the brake linings and emery against the drum. This process takes a lot more time and effort than arcing the linings, but in 30 minutes or so and a few emery changes the drag on the drum was perfectly even all of the way around.
I used a c clamp( g cramp UK) on the brake linkage to gradually move the brake out as the process went on.
This got rid of all brake pulsation, even at low speed.
Glen
-
hi guys, put his one on mine, I had the edge rim turned off as I thought it looked better? also tapped thread in cable guide so as to fit an adjuster, it works well, cheers
-
hi guys, put his one on mine, I had the edge rim turned off as I thought it looked better? also tapped thread in cable guide so as to fit an adjuster, it works well, cheers
I like it.
Apart from the fork lug being extended, did you have any other problems to overcome ?
-
The arcing of the linings can be done with self adhesive emery paper or sandpaper. I bought a few self adhesive backed sanding discs in 180 grit, then cut strips the same width as the drum. Stick them to the drum, assemble the brake and axle into the wheel on a bench, then turn the brake plate in the hub while applying light pressure to the brake arm.
You could also fully assemble the wheel into the forks and rotate the wheel while applying the brake lightly.
It takes very little effort to remove a lot of brake lining, so be careful not to overdo it. Just take a bit off then check to see if the linings are cut everywhere or if they need another go.
Try the brake out on the road, it may work fine. My 2 ls brake gripped well after this treatment but had pulsation.
This was caused by runout in the drum. To cure that I reversed the emery, sticky side on the brake linings and emery against the drum. This process takes a lot more time and effort than arcing the linings, but in 30 minutes or so and a few emery changes the drag on the drum was perfectly even all of the way around.
I used a c clamp( g cramp UK) on the brake linkage to gradually move the brake out as the process went on.
This got rid of all brake pulsation, even at low speed.
Glen
Thanks for this Glen, I will have to try this on my out of true drums.
P.S. - Just ordered some self adhesive backed sanding discs in 180 grit. See how it goes ;)
-
With better braking will I need to change the 15w fork oil to a thicker oil to increase damping or will I be ok with the 15w?
-
Hi Roy, had the lug on slider built up and just fitted it the lug needed about 5mm extension, cheers
-
Hi Roy, had the lug on slider built up and just fitted it the lug needed about 5mm extension, cheers
Thanks for that. *wink2*
-
Hi Roy, fits no problem (needs lug build up), looks cool and works great.
Cheers Thomas