The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: RoyC on 13.07. 2017 18:15
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My bike was collected yesterday to have chair fitted but as we were pushing the bike to the van we noticed a noise just like when you are changing gear on a push bike when the chain is trying to go onto the next cog, but more of a cracking sound.
The chain had the 1/2 inch up/down play when on the centre stand and the same on the primary chain.
Does the chain tighten up when it is off the centre stand ?
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Sounds like either the chain has stretched or the sprockets are worn to cause this noise.
ELLIS
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Sounds like either the chain has stretched or the sprockets are worn to cause this noise.
ELLIS
Thanks Ellis.
Funny thing is, when on stand with engine running and wheel freewheeling, not a sound.
When the bike comes back I will have to ride it around and see what happens.
Does the chain tighten up when it is off the centre stand ?
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Could be the chain rubbing on the rear chaincase.
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Yes the chain does tighten up when you take it off the center stand. I sit on the bike and get someone to measure the free play. I usually go for about 1/2 " and that seems about right. Good luck RoyC.
ELLIS
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Yes the chain does tighten up when you take it off the center stand. I sit on the bike and get someone to measure the free play. I usually go for about 1/2 " and that seems about right. Good luck RoyC.
ELLIS
That could be my problem then ellis as I set the 1/2 inch when on the stand
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Could be the chain rubbing on the rear chaincase.
It's not a rubbing sound Julian, more of a cracking sound.
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Hi,
The chain is tooooo tight *eek* *eek* *eek* *eek*
Where did you come up with 1/2in for the final drive chain?? *conf2*
John
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Roy,
Your rear drive chain will need more than 1/2 inch and needs to be done on the ground. Unless you have a modern superbike where the engine sprocket is on the same axis as the swing arm (which the BSA doesn't have - it's a good bit in front of the S/A pivot) - the chain will tighten when the suspension moves.
1/2 inch slack on the stand will result in the chain being stretched when you sit on the bike or the suspension moves. I know some literature might suggest 1/2 inch - I'd always give it more than that.
good luck Raymond.
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When the bike comes back I will have to ride it around and see what happens.
Ffs don't do that; that's the kinda dumb shit I'd do. ... *eek*
I agree with the above re; ' too tight', but as you've already sent it off elsewhere, you could maybe at least chase it up and loosen the axle, back off the adjusters incrementally and equally, (to maintain their alignment) *ex* until there is at least some slack on the chain, then nip it up until you can check it properly
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On a swinging arm model according to the handbook the total free movement of the rear chain should be 1 1/4 inches which reduces quite a bit when off the stand.
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Hi,
The chain is tooooo tight *eek* *eek* *eek* *eek*
Where did you come up with 1/2in for the final drive chain?? *conf2*
John
I'm probably mixing it up with how much slack to give a fan belt on the car *red* *doh*
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On a swinging arm model according to the handbook the total free movement of the rear chain should be 1 1/4 inches which reduces quite a bit when off the stand.
Thanks for this info, I think I will fit a new chain when the bike comes back.
What chain do I order ? The handbook states - Chain size and pitches :- Front = 1/2" x .305" 67 and Rear = 5/8" x 3/8" 98. whatever that means !!!!!!
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On a swinging arm model according to the handbook the total free movement of the rear chain should be 1 1/4 inches which reduces quite a bit when off the stand.
Thanks for this info, I think I will fit a new chain when the bike comes back.
What chain do I order ? The handbook states - Chain size and pitches :- Front = 1/2" x .305" 67 and Rear = 5/8" x 3/8" 98. whatever that means !!!!!!
I imagine that the figures represent: Pitch, width and number of links.
I think you need to do something about the tight chain ASAP as it is putting a lot of strain on the gearbox bearings etc.
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What chain do I order ?
Personally I would contact http://www.the-chain-man.co.uk/ What he does not know about chains is not worth knowing. As others have said the chain is best adjusted with the bike on the ground, in fact I always do mine this way and I also get someone to sit on the bike too.
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I think you need to do something about the tight chain ASAP as it is putting a lot of strain on the gearbox bearings etc.
I have emailed them and asked them to slacken off the chain before they ride it.
Thanks for all the advice.
I am now really concerned.
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....I am now really concerned.
If the bike hasn't been ridden, (much) like that you should be ok; these machines are very resilient.
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On a swinging arm model according to the handbook the total free movement of the rear chain should be 1 1/4 inches which reduces quite a bit when off the stand.
Thanks for this info, I think I will fit a new chain when the bike comes back.
What chain do I order ? The handbook states - Chain size and pitches :- Front = 1/2" x .305" 67 and Rear = 5/8" x 3/8" 98. whatever that means !!!!!!
As you know there are two chains in the drive chain, the (front) one in the primary chain case (to the gearbox) and the (rear) one to the rear wheel, so I think that's what the two sizes are, being referred to above (I think.....)
The cracking noise COULD also be coming from the primary chain, as a tight rear chain will usually pull the gearbox backwards and tighten the primary chain.
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The cracking noise COULD also be coming from the primary chain, as a tight rear chain will usually pull the gearbox backwards and tighten the primary chain.
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I did check the primary chain through the filler hole and it did have slack in it.
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....I am now really concerned.
If the bike hasn't been ridden, (much) like that you should be ok; these machines are very resilient.
The bike hasn't been ridden at all.
I had an email from them, they got the message and will slacken it off for me. Pheew. *yeah*
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Hi Roy,
Your Primary chain is going to be a 426 size chain. They will all either state 426 size or cross reference back to 426. It says you need 67 pitches, order a chain with 70 or so because you just never know with old stuff what might have been changed over the years from stock.
Pitches means links, do a quick google and you will understand in 2 minutes what it would take me 20 to type.
Your drive chain will be 530 size chain and you need 98 pitches, again get it a little longer.
I would not bother trying to fit anything but regular chain. They make o-ring, x-ring, all kinds of coatings, I would just concentrate on getting chain you know will fit. Regular chain.
Lee
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And buy yourself a tin of chain grease. Drop the chain in and heat the tin until it becomes liquid and sends off a bit of smoke into the air. Hook the chain out and hang it over the tin till it cools down. I find chain grease does not fling much off at all. *smiley4* *smiley4*
ELLIS
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Most decent dealers will supply you with the correct chains.
2 weeks age I bought primary and rear chains for my A10 from C and D Autos. Next day delivery and fitted perfectly.
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On the primary chain do not go for 70 links go for the proper amount.
67 indicates a half link which I am fairly certain an a10 has so if you order 70 links you will not get a half link with it unless you order it on top of ordering a chain.
You will also need a chain buster (or a grinder) if you need to shorten the chain
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And buy yourself a tin of chain grease. Drop the chain in and heat the tin until it becomes liquid and sends off a bit of smoke into the air. Hook the chain out and hang it over the tin till it cools down. I find chain grease does not fling much off at all. *smiley4* *smiley4*
ELLIS
All the chain grease on ebay is in aerosol tins, how do you boil this after spraying the new chain ?
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Comes in a tin like this item. Heat the tin and submerge chain in it. Being careful not to get hot grease on yourself and avoid upsetting it in the kitchen.
Pull on the new rear chain by linking it to the old. Keep the old rear chain one for when you remove new one for lubricating. It is a nightmare getting a rear chain on with the chaincase otherwise.
I used to use such lub but have been using sprayon for a number of years it being much easier.
All a matter of personal choice.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PUTOLINE-CHAIN-WAX-1KG-BOILING-TIN-FOR-NON-O-RING-CHAINS-MOTORCYCLE-MX-ENDURO-/121884077581?epid=2032067339&hash=item1c60db6e0d:g:-bQAAOSw--1WseV2
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Comes in a tin like this item. Heat the tin and submerge chain in it. Being careful not to get hot grease on yourself and avoid upsetting it in the kitchen.
Pull on the new rear chain by linking it to the old. Keep the old rear chain one for when you remove new one for lubricating. It is a nightmare getting a rear chain on with the chaincase otherwise.
I used to use such lub but have been using sprayon for a number of years it being much easier.
All a matter of personal choice.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PUTOLINE-CHAIN-WAX-1KG-BOILING-TIN-FOR-NON-O-RING-CHAINS-MOTORCYCLE-MX-ENDURO-/121884077581?epid=2032067339&hash=item1c60db6e0d:g:-bQAAOSw--1WseV2
Thanks for that Julian, just ordered one.
I suppose that it can be used again & again until all gone.
I cant order a chain at the moment, phone out of order *sad2*
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It will last a long time, as will your chain, properly lubricated, in the rear chaincase.
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Here was me thinking the days of boiling a chain in Lynklyfe were ancient history. Frankly, these days I can't be bothered, especially after the odd spill. I now apply semi-fluid grease with a narrow paintbrush. It doesn't fling and does a pretty good job of lubricating the chain. Applying it takes less than 2 minutes, unlike the boiling saga. The other handy hint is to make sure the engine breather points at the gearbox sprocket or chain. That can help keep the chain lubricated on long journeys at least.
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Spills - once upset the tin on shed floor took ages to clean it up! Then change to spray on.
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Nothing but nothing lubes a chain better than boiling in grease.
Done it all my life and get excellent service from all my chains & sprockets.
Trick is to run 2 or more ( I run 4 ) chains at a time.
Drag the lubed chain through and pop the clip back on takes few minutes.
Drop the old chain into some solvent to clean properly then at a latter date boil it up and pop it back in the tin after it has hardened and it will be ready for the next time.
Generally do the chains 2 at a time.
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My mom was not best pleased when I spilled it over her cooker. Link-life was not the easiest to clean up. *pull hair out*
ELLIS
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My mom was not best pleased when I spilled it over her cooker. Link-life was not the easiest to clean up. *pull hair out*
ELLIS
I think I will do it in the garden on a GAZ camping cooker in an old meat tin, then if it spills it will only go into the meat tin, I hope *whistle*
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My mom was not best pleased when I spilled it over her cooker. Link-life was not the easiest to clean up. *pull hair out*
ELLIS
And you survived to tell the story, she really must have loved you.
I had to do it on the kero stove and even then it had to be on the other side of the shed away from the house & only then when I was downwind.
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Happy days. *smile*
ELLIS
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My mom was not best pleased when I spilled it over her cooker. Link-life was not the easiest to clean up. *pull hair out*
ELLIS
And you survived to tell the story, she really must have loved you.
I had to do it on the kero stove and even then it had to be on the other side of the shed away from the house & only then when I was downwind.
It's just me and the dog, so no worries. *wink2*