The BSA A7-A10 Forum

Technical => Clutch, Primary, Gearbox => Topic started by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 15:04

Title: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 15:04
I am just trying to determine what length to cut my clutch pushrod to.
What position should the pushrod lever be in for new clutch plates A or B ?

Thanks, Roy.

Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Billybream on 18.12. 2017 15:25
Your lever appears bent, but should not make any difference to operation.
With the clutch engaged fully, handle bar lever back to the bar the lever on the gear box should be parallel to the gear box casing as per pic A.
Ensure you have a good working ball in the gear box lever and after cutting your push rod harden the end.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 15:58
Thanks for that Billy.
When you say "Ensure you have a good working ball in the gear box lever", do you mean the ball in between the two halves of the pushrod ?
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Billybream on 18.12. 2017 16:32
Hi Roy.
If you take off the gear box inspection cap directly below the clutch lever you will see the actuator arm and adjusting screw, you will find a ball in this screw but it's crimped so difficult to replace. So just get a new screw easy to find on EBay.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 17:07
Hi Roy.
If you take off the gear box inspection cap directly below the clutch lever you will see the actuator arm and adjusting screw, you will find a ball in this screw but it's crimped so difficult to replace. So just get a new screw easy to find on EBay.
Thanks for that. Just ordered a new one.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 18.12. 2017 17:41
With the clutch engaged fully


Should be 'With the clutch disengaged', i.e. with lever pulled the clutch plates are separated.
Engaged fully = when your riding and lever not being pulled in.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 18:41
With the clutch engaged fully


Should be 'With the clutch disengaged', i.e. with lever pulled the clutch plates are separated.
Engaged fully = when your riding and lever not being pulled in.
Thanks Roger.
The handlebar bit threw me, " With the clutch engaged fully, handle bar lever back to the bar " .
Now that you have said " Disengaged ", it makes sense.

Roy.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Billybream on 18.12. 2017 19:04
Sorry for misleading you Roy, should have said clutch withdrawn fully.
A senior moment.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 19:37
Anyone got any idea where I can get a NEW or VERY GOOD clutch operating arm ?
Been looking for ages.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: scotty on 18.12. 2017 19:51
SRM do a nice stainless one

S
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Greybeard on 18.12. 2017 20:05
Anyone got any idea where I can get a NEW or VERY GOOD clutch operating arm ?
Been looking for ages.
I had mine replated.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 18.12. 2017 20:13
SRM do a nice stainless one

S

Tried SRM, Product not available. - http://shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/gearbox-arm-stainless-steel-b-group-swingarm-1950-63 
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: ellis on 18.12. 2017 20:50
I got mine from dragonfly in Broad St Bungay . A nice stainless one.

ELLIS
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: KiwiGF on 18.12. 2017 22:18
Anyone got any idea where I can get a NEW or VERY GOOD clutch operating arm ?
Been looking for ages.

If it’s just the shaft is worn oval on your current arm making you search for a new one.....they can be held in a chuck and made round again, my engineer did mine and then made a new bush for the gearbox cover to fit it. Only downside was that he had to make a tiny centre hole in the visible part of the arm, to hold it straight during machining.

As he said, it won’t need to be done again for another 60 years will it  *smile*
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 19.12. 2017 06:32
Anyone got any idea where I can get a NEW or VERY GOOD clutch operating arm ?
Been looking for ages.
If it’s just the shaft is worn oval on your current arm making you search for a new one.....they can be held in a chuck and made round again, my engineer did mine and then made a new bush for the gearbox cover to fit it. Only downside was that he had to make a tiny centre hole in the visible part of the arm, to hold it straight during machining.

As he said, it won’t need to be done again for another 60 years will it  *smile*

Mine is not worn, just cosmetics.  :!
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: duTch on 19.12. 2017 06:41

 
Quote
Mine is not worn, just cosmetics.  :!

 Not just cosmetics- an arm bent like that will also affect the angle of the pushrod adjuster, which can be obviously adjusted but not without affecting the cable adjustment..... which comes back tho the original question;
 
Quote
What position should the pushrod lever be in for new clutch plates A or B ? 
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 19.12. 2017 11:00
Anyone got any idea where I can get a NEW or VERY GOOD clutch operating arm ?
Been looking for ages.
I had mine replated.

How bad was your leaver before you had it replated ?
Did the replating affect the splines and thread ?

I have this one but it's a little pitted.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Greybeard on 19.12. 2017 11:44
My clutch lever was about like that. In the attached photo taken when I started the latest restoration you can see that I'd previously painted it to hide the missing chrome and rust. The platers masked the splines so they were not affected. I was lucky to find a platers in the Midlands who specialise in vehicle work. They do good work. I also had them do the plunger shrouds, petrol tank, kick start and gear levers. I don't think they have a website. Here are their details.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 19.12. 2017 12:25
Thanks for that Steve.
Did they get rid of the pitting or just chrome over it ?
I used to live and work near Walsall.
Roy.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 19.12. 2017 12:41
Mine is not worn, just cosmetics.  :!


Roy, not sure if this is possible but couldn't you take it to an engineering firm to get it straightened?


And duTch is dead right - it'll effect your adjustment bent like that.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 19.12. 2017 13:06
Mine is not worn, just cosmetics.  :!

Roy, not sure if this is possible but couldn't you take it to an engineering firm to get it straightened?

It's not worth straightening because the finnish is not up to scratch.
I've got oxy and a big hammer.  *work*
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 19.12. 2017 17:57
Found one here:-


Pt. No. 67-3180.


https://www.ebay.fr/itm/BSA-A10-A7-B33-B31-54-62-Getriebe-gearbox-67-3180-65-3360-lever-hebel-kuppl-zug/173039047939?hash=item2849ee5503:g:tWQAAOSw0A9aN8GU (https://www.ebay.fr/itm/BSA-A10-A7-B33-B31-54-62-Getriebe-gearbox-67-3180-65-3360-lever-hebel-kuppl-zug/173039047939?hash=item2849ee5503:g:tWQAAOSw0A9aN8GU)

It's a German eBay site. Immediate purchase price 23.80 Euros (£21.00 according to currency exchange). Postage to Royaume uni (that's UK) is 18.00 Euros (=15.93). So a total of £38.00.


Looks ok and description when translated says it's in good condition.


Having said that Dragonfly pt. no. 67-3180 for 54-62 A& & A10 in stainless is £39.52 + pp if they have it in stock.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 19.12. 2017 18:14
Found one here:-


Pt. No. 67-3180.


https://www.ebay.fr/itm/BSA-A10-A7-B33-B31-54-62-Getriebe-gearbox-67-3180-65-3360-lever-hebel-kuppl-zug/173039047939?hash=item2849ee5503:g:tWQAAOSw0A9aN8GU (https://www.ebay.fr/itm/BSA-A10-A7-B33-B31-54-62-Getriebe-gearbox-67-3180-65-3360-lever-hebel-kuppl-zug/173039047939?hash=item2849ee5503:g:tWQAAOSw0A9aN8GU)

It's a German eBay site. Immediate purchase price 23.80 Euros (£21.00 according to currency exchange). Postage to Royaume uni (that's UK) is 18.00 Euros (=15.93). So a total of £38.00.


Looks ok and description when translated says it's in good condition.


Having said that Dragonfly pt. no. 67-3180 for 54-62 A& & A10 in stainless is £39.52 + pp if they have it in stock.

Thanks for that Roger but I already have one in better condition than that one.


Draganfly have no stock. They say that if you order this it will be put on back order.

Picture of the one that I have. I am in the process of getting it rechromed.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Greybeard on 20.12. 2017 10:56
Roy,
I've only just remembered that when I had my gearbox overhauled the box of bits I got back contained my original clutch lever. I've just braved the cold and dug it out from my mancave. I've taken some pictures. The lever is still very good but the shaft is worn. If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing. This is from a Plunger box by the way.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 20.12. 2017 16:07
Roy,
I've only just remembered that when I had my gearbox overhauled the box of bits I got back contained my original clutch lever. I've just braved the cold and dug it out from my mancave. I've taken some pictures. The lever is still very good but the shaft is worn. If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing. This is from a Plunger box by the way.
The lever part is miles better than mine but that shaft is completely shot.
Does the shaft and arm separate ?
My shaft is good but the arm is rubbish.

I managed to straighten my existing bent arm with a ring spanner.

Roy.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: Greybeard on 20.12. 2017 16:39
...my original clutch lever...
...If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing.
The lever part is miles better than mine but that shaft is completely shot.
Yup. Seems I ran my gearbox dry!
Quote
Does the shaft and arm separate ?
It'd be nice if they did but I cannot see a join. Probably sweated together with braze or silver solder during construction.

Did you speak to ACF Howells? I'm pretty sure they built up with copper plating to fill rust pitting on all my parts. I know they did that for the petrol tank.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 20.12. 2017 17:01
...my original clutch lever...
...If it's better than yours and you'd like it you can have the thing.
The lever part is miles better than mine but that shaft is completely shot.
Yup. Seems I ran my gearbox dry!
Quote
Does the shaft and arm separate ?
It'd be nice if they did but I cannot see a join. Probably sweated together with braze or silver solder during construction.

Did you speak to ACF Howells? I'm pretty sure they built up with copper plating to fill rust pitting on all my parts. I know they did that for the petrol tank.

I got a quote back for stripping and chroming - £114 + carriage,
 I thought it was a little steep.

Thank you for your kind offer, but if I can't use it it's a waste of your time posting it.

Roy
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 20.12. 2017 17:08
I have got my SRM clutch fitted OK.

Slight problem.
Can a stretched primary chain cause it to be tighter in one place  than in another ?
If so I will have to order another primary chain.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 20.12. 2017 17:08
I managed to straighten my existing bent arm with a ring spanner.


The SRM 4 spring is a very light action compared to the 6 spring, especially if it wasn't adjusted correctly, so I would think your arm would be ok now. When it's all up together you can access it and if not 100% happy you can always revert to plan B.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 20.12. 2017 17:26
Can a stretched primary chain cause it to be tighter in one place  than in another ?


Even a new chain will have tight spots but on a worn one they will be more noticeable. To test if wear is acceptable lay the chain out in a straight line and squeeze the links together to take up all the slack for 12", count the links in that 12" and measure it. Pull all 12" of those links apart and measure again. The difference is the amount of wear. If it is more than 1/4" then the chain should be replaced.


Done both my primary and rear chain when I changed my clutch to save stripping down again as both were on the border line.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 20.12. 2017 17:32
I managed to straighten my existing bent arm with a ring spanner.


The SRM 4 spring is a very light action compared to the 6 spring, especially if it wasn't adjusted correctly, so I would think your arm would be ok now. When it's all up together you can access it and if not 100% happy you can always revert to plan B.

Your right Roger, it's a lovely action compared to the 6 spring.

Any thoughts about the chain being tighter in one place to another ?

Roy.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 20.12. 2017 17:34
Another thing Roy, but I expect you already know this, is to adjust the primary chain for 1/2" free play in the centre at the tightest part of the chain.
Rear chain is 1 1/4" in centre at tightest spot.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RogerSB on 20.12. 2017 17:37
Any thoughts about the chain being tighter in one place to another ?


Crossed in the post Roy, see reply 29.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 20.12. 2017 17:58
Can a stretched primary chain cause it to be tighter in one place  than in another ?


Even a new chain will have tight spots but on a worn one they will be more noticeable. To test if wear is acceptable lay the chain out in a straight line and squeeze the links together to take up all the slack for 12", count the links in that 12" and measure it. Pull all 12" of those links apart and measure again. The difference is the amount of wear. If it is more than 1/4" then the chain should be replaced.
Thanks Roger. Not knowing how long the chain has been on I'll replace it. I'm replacing the rear one anyway.
Title: Re: Clutch lever setting
Post by: RoyC on 22.12. 2017 11:40
New primary chain arrived.
I laid it down by the side of my existing chain and the old chain was 3/4 of a link longer over 70 Links.
No wonder that my old chain went from dead tight to 1" of play when rotating the engine.
I fitted the new chain and there is ½" of play all round the engine cycle.  *smile*
My worst fear was that I had a bent shaft, Pheew.

Thanks to all for helping to sort this out.
Roy.