The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: LynnLegend on 07.04. 2018 22:13
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Hi all,
Took the bike out today for a quick dash to the petrol station (3 miles) and after filling up she wouldn't kick. Plugs were dry, carb was tickled, petrol tap open, spark was good, but had to rely on a push start from two lads on the forecourt. One of them thought my idle was a little slow, so I faffed with air screw, but I haven't had this problem before.
When I got home, I killed the engine, then kicked again and fired up no problem.
I had recently fitted a new silencer, but have been out on a 30 mile ride (with a pub stop in the middle) and had no problems.
I'm happy to write it off as a "bike is 60 years old" thing, but would welcome your thoughts on this.
Thanks in advance,
Sam.
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Sounds like the start of a failing magneto saga.
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Hi Sam,
3 miles at this time of year gets the temp to the zone where neither hot or cold starting techniques work *sad2*
I would fit a new set of plugs for a start, The plugs seem to suffer from the crap fuel thats sold nowadays and have a very finite life *sad2*
Hard starting at times is the first symptom, this can happen suddenly, one day fine crap the next *ex*
John
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I'll add my support to the possibility of a s00n-to-expire maggie. On two occasions I tried everything else before conceding defeat and had it overhauled. The first time took ten or so years of convincing, in which time it did about 20 miles tops (1 mile each way to the local bike show times 10). The second time was last year and I sent off for an 'EasyCap', but didn't use them as I put it in for analysis before they arrived, but one wouldn't have worked anyway due to a burnt wire in the outer windings...and consequently shot condensers...
I suggest as a backup, you invest in a 'EasyCap'. Our member 'groily' is the Guru on these;
http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm (http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm)
http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/parts/index.htm#EasyCap%E2%84%A2%20magneto%20condensers
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I had the warm/tepid restart problem, fixed with an easy cap.
Prior to fixing the mag, you could actually hear a big change in engine tone when sufficient heat got thru to the mag. The engine sound suddenly went dull .When stopped at the next stop sign the idle would be erratic or the bike would die altogether.
It would not restart on the kicker until cool again, then it would start in 1-3 kicks.
With the easycap, it doesn't show those symptoms at all anymore.
1-2 kicks hot, cold or tepid and the engine sounds sharp all of the time.
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I always put a hand on the barrel to check the temp, if the engine is between hot and cold I press the tickler for 1 second and this slightly richens the mixture and makes for an easy start. HTH.
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I find with the fuels we have down here, if the bike has been running for less than about 1/2 hour I have to turn off the taps and starve the engine off.
If I don't do this the plugs load up and it wont start with the kick starter.
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Before you send the mag off for a rebuild, check the easy stuff first i.e. the condition of the points, mag pick-ups, HT leads, plug caps, plugs and most of all the timing.
If you have a kill switch, check that too.
I had what I thought was a condenser on the way out on my M20, turned out to be a breakdown inside the mag pick-up, even though the carbon looked like it had plenty of life left.
Regards
Pat
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I'm with the 'in between hot and cold' brigade. If it started fine when you got home it's probably OK. If you have never had the magneto rebuilt or you don't know what's inside it you should look into this.
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...but yes, I also overlooked/forgot to mention the obvious first checks of slipring, pickups, crud in fuel, and or blockage, points- anything in the firingline....and the oldest trick in the book of a forgotten killswitch *whistle*
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Hi all,
Thanks for you comments so far.
I will keep an eye on the issue, and if it persists will try an "easy cap". I'm not too concerned as she fired up fine with a push start so I shouldn't be left in the sh.. It's nice that wherever I go people want to talk and help - wouldn't get that on a Japanese sports bike.
Thanks again,
Sam.
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...but yes, I also overlooked/forgot to mention the obvious first checks of slipring, pickups, crud in fuel, and or blockage, points- anything in the firingline....and the oldest trick in the book of a forgotten killswitch *whistle*
The spark plugs we get here in the U S of A no longer have the ceramic coating to keep plug dry down inside because the newer vehicles do not need it, also the plug makers are cheapo's. So if you over tickle the tickler, and soak the protruding part of plug, it is the same as flooded, it will not start. NGK plugs here 1 in 3 are duds almost, I use Bosch and Champion. Champion is the cheapest made plug on the planet, but these bikes like them, plus they do not dry foul, from normal combustion process, as easily as the others do. Bosch plugs because of the SHI**Y fuel they give us, Bosch translates in the middle of the other plugs heat ranges by 1/2, so you can fine tune for plug fouling. I always go one range hotter than factory recommended, because of the fuel we get, mine burn medium tan to dark tan like the pictures. I may be running a bit rich because Bosch I go 2 numbers hotter and they burn fine. But I also get header pipe pop on the over run, which says too rich ( it usually means that anyhoo )
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Spot on Bill