The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Gearbox, Clutch, Primary => Topic started by: bsa-bill on 06.08. 2018 17:34
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I need to measure my clutch pushrod but think it's right, possible a new clutch cable is too long (all adjustment used) so I thought of adjusting the position of the pushrod screw adjuster in the gearbox, (the thing with the locknut and small ball bearing in it) I think I recall it's on a spline on the lever.
Now I fancy having a go at moving it without taking the gearbox cover off, if I fail and something falls in the box well then the cover will have to come off.
So I'm asking if anyone has attempted this, and if so did you succeed
(ever the opsomist)
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If you move it on the splines,it may not contact the push rod correctly. It should contact at right angle at or just before full lift.
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Surely you have one of those telescopic magnetic pens in your workshop for when the split pin or nut falls?
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Bill, I think I tried to do that but wouldn't happen- I think something to do with the split-pin....and I agree with B-reg, although more important to have the internal adjuster arm square to the rod. If you just want to measure the rod, I'm sure you're aware it'll slide out through the arm after removing the adjuster screw.
I also agree with the magnet-on-a-stick....trouble is they invariably latch on to things I don't want'm to... *pull hair out*
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Bill,
Tried it about a month ago. The problem for me came with trying to get the nut back on. But first, there was getting the nut off without dropping it, getting the split pin out without dropping it....etc. etc.
Just take the cover off and save a lot of time and frustration ;)
Nice, the "P" on my keyboard has decided to poop the bed if you dont pound on it. *sad2*
Lee
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Bill,
I don't see much use in measuring the pushrod. If it's too short, pull it out, cut it in half, put a 1/4" ball in the middle, then cut off the excess from one of the halves.
Richard L.
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Thanks guys
Pushrod is 11.5 inch as should be, the magnetic telescopic rod is a godsend, also very useful for removing clutch plates.
Now I think there is more to this, I had an SRM pressure plate installed, I needed to remove the clutch which I did but when I came to put it back together again I'm damned if I could get the spring nuts back on, too much pressure needed to compress the spring and get the nut started.
I had 6 plain and 5 friction plates in it, worked great and can't recall much difficulty put it on on.
Anyway I gave up and put on the original BSA tin pressure plate back on with 4 friction and 5 plain plates, new clutch cable and original pushrod, when all are together the pushrod just pokes out of the gearbox end by about a couple of mil, also the clutch doesn't grip even with the nuts having a good 1/4 of an inch or more of thread through and the spring well inside their cup.
primary chain is parallel with chain case top edge but it seems like the clutch needs to go further on the mainshaft, can't think what would prevent it being fully on.
Looks like it's got to come off again.
Anyone know what space there should be between the chain wheel and the inner primary case, I can get my finger in ?
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Hi Bill,
I can get my finger in ?
Something wrong there I believe, *????*
Normally the chain is quite close to the rear case
You have me confused about the SRM pressure plate ?
The SRM unit has tha screwed adjuster in the pressure plate and the radial needle roller bearing, plus the pusher that acts on the thrust bearing
Fitting all this means that the original pushrod has to be shortened *????*
Anyway Maybe I can claim a little victory in answer to your earlier question *smiley4*
in that I did move the widget on the clutch arm without dropping anything into the box *woo* *woo*
John
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Dismantling the lever without taking the cover off can be done but needs lean fingers, good quality long nose pliers and no hurry...
Distance from clutch to primary should be about 1/4”. Do the sprockets line up? That’ll probably tell you more about the clutch position.
Getting the nuts to grip the studs needs a hefty push with the SRM plate on! Seems like the SRM plate is more domed. I have 6 plain and 5 friction plates in and remember having a hard time catching the first turn of thread.
Don’t remember the exact distance but from memory I’d say that the pushrod should stick out by at least 6 to 8 mil.
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The SRM unit has tha screwed adjuster in the pressure plate and the radial needle roller bearing, plus the pusher that acts on the thrust bearing
Fitting all this means that the original pushrod has to be shortened *????*
Yep,John I have a shortened pushrog for the SRM . this pushrod is standard 11.5 inch
the pushrod should stick out by at least 6 to 8 mil.
It's well short of that, something is amiss
in that I did move the widget on the clutch arm without dropping anything into the box
Well done, but now don't think that's the problem, and I'm not exactly calm and serene at the mo
Thanks guys - it's got to come off, the push rod not coming through enough is the the tell tale, busy with other stuff tomorrow, Wednesday and Thursday but I'll let you know what I find
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Hi Bill, Last year I fitted a SRM 4-spring and had to shorten my pushrod. I'm kicking myself because before putting everything back together again I didn't think to measure it.
However I did make notes for myself of how to get the correct length (based on SRMs instructions) and I've attached a pic of it here in case its of any help.
At the same time I had to move the operating arm on the spline slightly. The outer cover was off but even then I still had some difficulty getting the tiny split pin in the tiny holes. I don't think I could have done it with the cover on.
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Roger;
.. Last year I fitted a SRM 4-spring and had to shorten my pushrod. I'm kicking myself because before putting everything back together again I didn't think to measure it.........
From my earlier reply #3;
......If you just want to measure the rod, I'm sure you're aware it'll slide out through the arm after removing the adjuster screw...
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HI guys , the rod I'm using on this standard 4 spring clutch is the standard 11.5 inch rod.
The actuating arm is no longer the main issue as the rod when pushed through and into the tin pressure plate only shows through into the gearbox by a couple of mill at most, this coupled with the extreme difficulty of starting the spring screws when the SRM clutch was in makes me think that something has prevented the clutch going far enough on the drive shaft. ( I'm thinking about the key )
only one way to find out - hey ho
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HI guys , the rod I'm using on this standard 4 spring clutch is the standard 11.5 inch rod.
And thats the problem I need the 11.13/16 one, ordered from Polly Palmer this afternoon.
I had forgotten or did not know of this longer pushrod, never had cause to buy one, just cut the existing one down for srm clutch.
and my other alloy pressure plate just uses the old pushrod.
Sorry to take your time up and thanks for your replies, might be useful for someone in the future
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I don't get it. 10 minutes of labor and an old ball bearing from your junk collection (old steering head set) and you would already be back on the road.
Richard L.
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10 minutes of labor and an old ball bearing from your junk collection (old steering head set) and you would already be back on the road.
A ball bearing would not be enough, the difference is almost half an inch.
I want the bike to be as near original as is practical as I intend to sell it and as good as I can get it without bogdes, and whilst the ball bearing trick is well known a new owner may not be aware of it, with the consequence of a ball bearing ending up rolling around the gearbox - sorry not with my name in the frame.
Also both my bikes are negative earth purely for the convenience of both being similar ( the red bike is electronic ignition so needs 12 volts negative earth), I had a negative earth DVR2 on this bike , this I have replaced with a positive earth version, again anyone with knowledge of the bikes will expect Positive earth, also oil filter has been removed, inuring the expense of new oil pipes - again for the sake of expected originality, ( to be honest many user will not ride enough miles to make a filter worthwhile)
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I don't get it. 10 minutes of labor and an old ball bearing from your junk collection (old steering head set) and you would already be back on the road.
Richard L.
Or better still, a 1/4 X 1/4" clutch roller. Much kinder on the push-rod ends.
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I don't get it. 10 minutes of labor and an old ball bearing from your junk collection (old steering head set) and you would already be back on the road.
Richard L.
Or better still, a 1/4 X 1/4" clutch roller. Much kinder on the push-rod ends.
...but not in the junk collection. Besides, it doesn't change the fact that the activating arm has a ball bearing in it.
Bill, you couldn't get by on 1/16" less, or two balls and 3/16" cut from one of the pushrod halves? At this point, I'm beating it to death for laughs, since you've ordered a new rod.
Richard L.
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Who is Polly Palmer?
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Richard I call it shitty wassell because they sold shitty parts to me in the 80s that caused me more *work* *fight*
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Who is Polly Palmer?
I believe PP is something to do with the BSA Owners Club.
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I believe PP is something to do with the BSA Owners Club.
yep - a stalwart of long time standing. had stuff off him in the past, Welsh I think
you would already be back on the road.
I am on the road - two bikes remember, just concentrating in getting the Gold one ready to sell in condition that I would like to buy one, then the new owner can add , modify or whatever as he/she learns and requires.
Now be honest how many of you would want to buy a bike that required nothing done to it for years and years to come ( should maybe cut that bit)
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Polly was President for a long time & owner Bri-Tie motorcycles in Wales.
HE kept a large inventory of BSA parts, particularly A 7 & A 10 parts
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Bri-Tie
Yes - couldn't quite remember the name
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I would Bill, I would want the bike made with the correct parts that fit!
Buy a bike that was put together as intended, using parts that were not purchased from J.C. Witneys? One with real gaskets. where the correct TPI of bolts was used? A bike that is not made of 90% "one off little bitty special parts" that the PO had to modify and make because he was a 3 buck Chuck?
Everyone is scared to buy a bike built with the cheapest of everything. Not the 80 dollar part, always the 30 dollar version and not the good oil or fuel, always the cheap shit. Never sealed with paper gaskets and grease, always bathroom silicone caulk.
NOBODY wants that cheap skate bike, yet a lot of people seem to build them. *sad2*
Lee
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Bill,
Does Polly run a business from which anyone can make purchases, or do you have to know him personally?
*fight* (I couldn't find an emoji of a dead horse being beaten.)
Perhaps the ball bearing in the middle of the pushrod is not original equipment, but it's hard to consider it in the realm of "bodge". Certain members I respect have suggested the technique, for example:
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=10900.msg81939#msg81939
Then, there is one BSA-Bill, to whom the technique was not unfamiliar.
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=582.msg81371#msg81371
Richard L.
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Does Polly run a business from which anyone can make purchases, or do you have to know him personally?
may still trade as Bri -Tie, makers of the original anti wet sump valve I think, also sells on Ebay as bikerbsa (20998).
Well to my mind I have had as much pleasure from improving my Bikes as riding them, Bodge was a rather harsh term I agree.
I'm not selling a substandard bike, it has st/st rims and spokes, standard bore, good tyres, halogen light, DVR2 regulator.
Ball bearing in the clutch rod is a good mod if you do it and know it's there, if your not aware and remove the rod the bearing could end up in the box, NOT good, similarly Negative earth was fine for me, but nothing wrong with Positive earth and it's what is expected, it cost me the price of a new DVR2 to change it back.
Just trying to do the right thing buy the buyer
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I would Bill, I would want the bike made with the correct parts that fit!
Everyone is scared to buy a bike built with the cheapest of everything. Not the 80 dollar part, always the 30 dollar version and not the good oil or fuel, always the cheap shit. Never sealed with paper gaskets and grease, always bathroom silicone caulk.
.......PROGRESS..... cheers
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Bodge was a rather harsh term, I agree.
To be fair, no one called the ball bearing trick a "bodge," ('cept me) I was just reading into it.
So, your intention, as stated, is to take all the pleasure out of the bike by making all the improvements yourself, leaving none for the new owner. Now we know the kind of person you are. ;) *smile*
Richard L.
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no one called the ball bearing trick a "bodge,
Actually I did, I should have used something like alteration, myself I never found the need, and the pushrod from Britie was £10.50, not a lot for originality.
Rummaging in the shed yesterday I came upon a six spring clutch, a light flicked on, this is where the 10.5 inch pushrod came from I think, then I believe there were two four spring clutches differing in the width of the basket ( thanks John) so some small relief for getting it wrong (still learning see - a good thing)
New rod should be here today or tomorrow, I'm off shopping and haircut today, shed will have to survive without me *smile*