The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: A10 JWO on 26.09. 2018 14:54
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1959 RGS replica built by Andy at Leigh Classic Motorcycles about 5 years ago. Stunning looking machine ( photos to follow ). Only 400 miles since full restoration. The correct stamped gearbox fitted and high compression stamps on engine which appear correct. A few issues possibly because it has been standing.
I rode it home, only a couple of miles and a metallic screaming sound came out of the nearside or front of the engine. Woke up a few pedestrians I can tell you. Seemed to be clutch related ?
Once home it would not start again. I am not going to break this down into the various sections of the forum, fuel, electrical etc.
Chemotherapy is causing breaks in the progress to date.
The clutch crankcase was empty of oil, now rectified.
Engine oil spotless and good return as you would expect.
The Monobloc primary was full of rubbish and the spotless tank flushed out.
It is fitted with a cable advance and retard via a choke lever.
Fired it up today after many kicks and it sounded nice. During the many kicks it is kicking me back with slack on the cable control.
The amp-meter is not doing anything, totally stagnant.
The new 6 volt battery flat as a pancake. not surprising as it has been through a few winters.
I need to get the timing/starting aspect right as everything else is like brand new. All of my A10's had auto advance so I am like a fish out of water with this system.
It is not possible to spend hours on this bike due to circumstances, so some patience and useful help will be appreciated. This will probably have to go back on the market in the near future once it is running sweet again. Regards and thanks for reading this thread.
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All of my A10's had auto advance so I am like a fish out of water with this system.
Hi A10 JWO
You will know then that auto advance had to be in full advance position to time the engine, I would presume manual A/R to be the same
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With slack in the cable it will be at fully advanced, to prevent kick back you will need to take up the slack in the cable to retard the timing slightly.
The lever will pull up the cable and move the mechanism within the magneto to retard mode.
I only retard for intial starting and sometimes use it to assist on steep hills.
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Hi A10JWO
Being as the bike has been standing for a while it is worth removing the screwed end cap on the mag and checking the cam ring is moving back and forth with the A/R lever, it sometimes sticks on full advance. Sometimes the cable sticks as well and needs oiling but this normally causes it to stick on full retard.
While you are in there draw a piece of emery through the points - mine corrode if left too long between starts.
Good luck with it.
Jim
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Lawnmowerman, that one is interesting. Must admit once we moved the lever on the handlebars and lost the spark. Will have another look tomorrow, thanks lads.
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Lawnmowerman, that one is interesting. Must admit once we moved the lever on the handlebars and lost the spark. Will have another look tomorrow, thanks lads.
Aaah - perhaps the mag is on its way out. The spark is usually strongest at max advance - moving the A/R lever to retard will weaken the spark and if the mag is iffy then it will kill the spark altogether.
Jim
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Cleaned to Mag, now starts 2nd kick but will double check the timing. Thanks for replies.