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Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Lucas, Ignition, Charging, Electrical => Topic started by: Happy Hans on 30.10. 2018 19:28

Title: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 30.10. 2018 19:28
Hello,

I have a problem with installing my auto advance unit. While tightening the double threated centre nut I recognized that the A/R unit goes not deep enough onto the conus of the armature, it doesn't fits firmly, even didn't touches it . Seems wether the fibre sprocket is too thick, because it touches the inner timing case before the A/R unit touches the conus, or the armature of the magneto goes not deep enough into the timing case, or something else. By the way the k2f magneto is freshly rebuilt by david lindsley and I'm very satisfied with his work.

I would be glad if somebody have an idea what causes the problem.

Thanks in advance, Hans
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: chaterlea25 on 30.10. 2018 19:38
Hi Hans
Is the "U" shaped washer fitted under the nut on the A/R unit ?
it sits into the dished washer/shim
If this is missing the nut may not clamp the unit
It is easily made by cutting a slot from a suitably sized flat washer

John
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 30.10. 2018 19:48
Yes it's fitted, and when tightening the nut only slightly it will come loose when I try the kickstart some times. When I tighten the nut firmer the whole drive train goes firm, then it is not possible to kickstart again. So I thought that it has something to do with the contact that the fibre sprocket has with the inner case.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: trevinoz on 30.10. 2018 20:08
Maybe the magneto armature is not protruding far enough due to shimming on the wrong end or the taper is worn.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 30.10. 2018 20:29
I dont believe that there is something worn, because the magneto is totally overhauled, but that it has something to with the armature is not coming out enogh maybe could it be, but then I am down because that should not occure after I payed a huge amount of money for the mag renovation. Maybe it is worth to messure the length of the armature end coming out of the housing and have a comparision to another one ,or to messure the cone somehow.

Thanks, Hans
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: trevinoz on 30.10. 2018 20:45
Measure it Hans and post result.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 30.10. 2018 20:56
I measured it. The distance between the housing flange and the end of the taper is 24,7mm.
Sorry I only have it in mm's.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 30.10. 2018 21:33

 Hans- I had the same thing with my ATD and initially I made a conical brass shim to pack it out, but when I did my rebuild 7 years ago, I figured the only real option was to carve some material from the casing behind the unit - that was about the time I bought the Dremel...*work* I have somewhere the details of how much I carved

 I bought a spare maggie at a swap last wekend , and these are the measurement of the taper /thread;
 Case to end of thread;      23.52mm  (0.926")  ......
 Taper length;                   11.36mm  (0.448")
 Thread length;                 11.76mm  (0.463" )   

 My regular maggie is in hosptal at the moment, will measure that when I have it back


Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 30.10. 2018 21:47
Carving some material, I think could be an option if there is not too much necessary to get contact between the unit and the taper. Dutch do you mean the distance between the inner timing case or the maggie case to the end of the thread?

Thanks for your help.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: morris on 30.10. 2018 22:18
Hi Hans, I measured an ATD I had lying around.
The taper depth is 18 mm to where the thread starts.
The taper protrudes about 9.5 mm behind the gear.
The gear is 15 mm wide
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Klaus on 30.10. 2018 22:29
Hi Hans,
please check the 2 bolts comming througt the housing. May be the rear one is too long, so the gear get in touch.

Klaus
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: chaterlea25 on 30.10. 2018 22:36
Hi Again Hans,
Can you "feel" the unit touching the engine cases?
On one bike a long time ago I found that the nut was going to the end of the threads and still the unit had not seated on the taper!
Eventually I had to remove the first 1 or 2 internal threads on the nut

I would remove the magneto from the engine again, then trial fit the unit on the shaft,
If it tightens up ok then go to plan "dremel"
If the nut will not tighten on the taper make a thicker U shaped washer as a first move

John
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 30.10. 2018 23:46
 Hans, it's from the bearing flange on the Maggie case, right next to the bearing and shaft( the bolt flange is another 2.45mm )
 I measured it with digital caliper,  the analogue ruler is just for demo.
 This is I believe the correct maggie for my '53 engine BA10
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: kiwipom on 31.10. 2018 03:23
Guys surely this unit should go together without talking a grinder or a hacksaw to it,  presumably Happy Hans had this working before the mag was reconditioned. I would go back to the guy who did the work and see if he can figure it out, cheers
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 31.10. 2018 03:52

 Yes KP, one would think so,  but we sometimes reluctantly need to work with what w have
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Swarfcut on 31.10. 2018 09:45
 Guten Tag Hans...

    Simple stuff first..check lower magneto mounting bolt does not enter the timing case to catch on the gear.

   If you are using the same auto advance unit as before , then the magneto must be the problem. For some reason the shaft is not sticking out as far as it should.

      First check the ATD , the fibre gear should be a standard 15mm thickness.  The collar on the ATD base should be level with or slightly below the end of the centre taper mounting, pushed towards the fibre gear.. This fixes the gear in relation to the ATD internal taper.

   Without the retaining bolt fitted, the ATD should seat on the magneto shaft taper (conus) and grip with just hand pressure to turn the magneto.  It should not touch the crankcase. My ATD seats on the taper shaft when pushed on 15mm from the end of the thread.  So you need at least 15mm of taper showing.  When fitted, I have about 3mm of shaft showing between the ATD and the magneto oilseal lip, checked with difficulty with the magneto removed.  So you should have at least 18mm of taper shaft from end of the thread to the oilseal lip. From oilseal lip to end of shaft, including thread is  26mm.  Remove the magneto and try this. You should be able to check that the ATD  fits.

   If the gear touches the crankcase  then the magneto is not fitted OK, or the magneto shaft is too short. Maybe the magneto oilseal is too thick or not in its proper place. The bearing may not be fully seated. This would move the magneto armature into the magneto body, (because the bearing is not in the right place) and shorten the available shaft length.

  There should be no need to cut your crankcase. 

   Swarfy
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 31.10. 2018 09:57

 Interesting and timely topic, as I have mine off at the moment but won't have it back in my possession until tomorrow (work dependant)...so'll measure it up then
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 31.10. 2018 11:27
Swarfcut I think you are right with the fact that the taper  is not coming far enough out of  the housing.  I recognized when I removed the maggie that the a/r Unit touches the flange of the mag bodie before     getting in contact with the conus.
The thickness of the fibre sprocket is 15 mm.
So what to do? Dismantle the maggie and checking what is wrong inside, or send it back to Lindsley ?

Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 31.10. 2018 11:47
I tried some pics, hope its possible to see someting.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Swarfcut on 31.10. 2018 12:09
 Guten Tag Hans.

    I think you have found your answer. The magneto has not been rebuilt to give the correct length of spindle. You have paid a lot of money for a  magneto which is not fit for purpose as we say in England. You have to decide whether to send it back or fix it yourself.  I would first contact Mr Lindsley, he may advise you what to do, or simply ask you to return it. If the internal parts are are OK, it can only be a simple assembly problem, which you can fix yourself.

  As you have spent a lot, of money I would only try  to fix it yourself if you have no result from Mr Lindsley.  If this is the case, please let the forum know of your experience.

  If you can find the UK websites  for Priory Magnetos or Brightspark Magnetos there is information  there to help you. I would  highly recommend  both of these companies.

   Viel  Gluck

  Swarfy.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 31.10. 2018 12:15
Swarfcut and all the others thank you once  again. I love this forum
Let you know the results after connecting Mr. Lindsley
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: groily on 31.10. 2018 17:13
Just went and measured a couple of customer K2Fs to compare with your measurements Hans.

From the circular raised register on the drive end flange to the end of the threaded section (when all threads are there as yours are) is typically 7/8ths of an inch - 22mm in metric. The thickness (depth) of the collar on the inboard side of all the 4 Beesa-spec atd units I have here is 5/16ths from the rear flange of the centre section, give or take a gnat's cock as we say - or 8mm.

Your pic seems to show 19mm sticking through from the register - which is 1/8th or 3mm short and more than enough to cause the problem.

As to 'why', it is hard to say. I rather doubt Dave Lindsley would have put bits in the wrong places on the inside, but there must be some problem with the internal fit - or something unimaginably horrible has happened to the armature in the past resulting in a loss of length which couldn't be rectified without replacing the whole armature.

It is just possible the oil seal isn't sitting properly in its recess behind the drive end bearing race, or that the race somehow didn't go fully home. If the latter, you'd notice because the oil seal would be a loose fit. It is also possible that there is shimming on the drive end (behind the bearing's inner race) which would shorten the bit that sticks though to the atd, but I can't think why and 3mm is inconceivable.

It might be worth taking an HT pick-up off and seeing if the brushes are dead-centre on the slipring at the other end though, which they should be. If things aren't aligned correctly there, that would tell you something.

Although your mag might (probably) take a simple sprocket or gear, with fixed camring mags designed for atd use, I think most of us do a trial fit with a known good ATD after assembly to be sure one will go on and stay on. I have a spare timing side crankcase lying about which I use just for this purpose. It's not totally foolproof and the problem of folk finding their own atd won't go on isn't unheard of, to be honest - Beezermac at Priory Mags has a brilliant bit of text on his site about what to worry about and what NOT to worry about with the things, which I quote frequently to people who are concerned. But a desperately worn male or female taper is a problem you can't get round in a hurry.

If you are going to have a look yourself, bear in mind that it could affect your guarantee . . . but, that said, it would only take 15 mins to have a look if you wanted:
*contact breaker off
*pick-ups off
* earth brush (next to the drive end flange on top) off
* SAFETY spark screws out - diagonally opposite, 2 of, at HT pick-up end
* cb end housing off - just a few screws
Then you can pull the armature out. The magnetism won't run out all over the floor . . . so no need for keepers on these ones.

Then, you can look at the inside.
First, check the cb end bearing outer race is flush with the housing it sits in. It should be near as dammit. It can't really have sunk too far in to cause the drive end to be 'short' - but funny things do happen.
Then, look down the body at the drive end. You should see the outer bearing race flush or near-as with the alloy it sits in. If it's well proud, there's something wrong. Behind the race is an insulating washer to prevent return HT current passing through the bearing, and the oil seal. The oil seal should be dead central and not at all loose. If it's skew, there's a prob as it will have stolen valuable space in getting trapped out of line. If it's loose, then the bearing race, or the insulator, or something isn't fitted correctly. Sometimes, the housing will have been messed up in the past if (for example) someone has  tried to 'pop' round the race to retain it better, or if it has at some point spun in the housing. But it probably hasn't.

If all is solid but the race is sitting proud, then you need to investigate further, which can be a tricky one depending on how well fixed the bearing race is. Sometimes heat and a bit of pressure on the oil seal will get it out without hassle. Other times it won't - and excess force will destroy the seal for sure. In that case, either a one-off tool - we use the thing shown here - www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/workshop/BitsAndBobs/index.htm which is quite simple to make if you felt adventurous. Or, a bent instrument with a sharp edge to lever at the race to see if it will start to budge (fiddly though as hard to get in there). Worst case, folk have been known to drill 2 tiny holes from the outside to bear on the race and knock it out with a hardened pin  . . . at your own risk! Heat, though, in all cases  . . . a good dunking in boiling water can be good, or a heat gun applied carefully. Blow lamps  . . .  hmm! Last resort and only if you have a new seal available!

There should be nothing behind the race except the insulating paper washer and the seal, and the race should go fully home as stated. The race should have a depth of 9mm if it's an 18mm id bearing (post about 1951) or 8mm if it's a 15mm bearing (early K series only). It's highly unlikely there'll be anything funny about the bearing itself but if there are any shims behind it packing it out, then questions questions  . . .  Shimming should normally only be done  between the slipring outer face and the inner race of the bearing at that end, with possibly some large shims between mag body and cb end housing.  Typically on a K2F, there'd be approx 0.5mm next to the slipring. Sometimes there's nothing, sometimes there's a bit more - but the shims come in all thicknesses and it is usually possible to get the end float controlled to a 1/1000th of an inch without trouble.

The worst thing would be if there is a weirdo aspect to the armature itself. The drive end steel shaft should be absolutely solid in its brass end piece, and no signs of damage or repairs for choice. The coil in there will be the one that was fitted before you had it rewound, and ditto the other brass end piece - they live together, and are always best kept together unless there has been a mechanical disaster which has forced a mix 'n match approach.

Mechanical disasters happen when the drive end axle goes sloppy. When the coil has been so messed up it can't be rewound (rare but it happens). When the earth brush track on the drive end has worn such a groove or dimple in the brass it can't be trued without actually going through the brass (that happens too). When a mag has seized due to insulation leakage gluing it solid and things have got busted or bent. In all such instances, mix 'n match may be necessary, or a complete replacement armature in better condition needs sourcing. That is usually possible, but harder with the early 15mm shafts than the later 18s. In all such cases, it makes life harder for the repairer, and the result may not be quite as good as when the thing left the factory. But there are always answer  . . . just a Q of figuring out where your 3mm got to.
 
(If only all problems of length were just 3mm ones - Audible Sigh! - but that would be for the 'ealth and 'apenis part of the forum!)
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 31.10. 2018 21:11
Bill, a lot of helpfull details, thanks for your effort.
At first I get in touch with Mr. Lindsley, I payed quite a lot and I think there should not be any problem. The circumstance which I do not like is the permanent waiting of parts which I have to send back because of the faulty quality. Always two steps forward and one back.
If there occure further problems with the part, I will use your instructions and fix it by myself.


Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: morris on 31.10. 2018 21:15
Measured a magneto I have laying around. Shaft sticks out by 22mm
Then tried a known good combination and this is the outcome;
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 01.11. 2018 09:45
 Nice War and piece (sic) epic groily *eek*- serious good info...

  FWIW, I retrieved mine from the magneto hospital today, and the taper and thread are much the same as the new swappie acquisition ~23.9 mm o/a, more or less equal thread and taper..(~11.85mm/~11.8mm)... looking at the pics, it seems there's not much between the mag bodies and ATD , of both morris and Hans.....whereas I have  gaps ranging from ~0.035" to ~0.050" (3/4mm - 1,1/4mm)....depending which spare gear I try...
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Greybeard on 01.11. 2018 10:10
Groily, I have so much respect for your posts! May I suggest that you submit some articles to the BSAOC magazine; The Star. I'm sure many BSA owners would enjoy sharing your knowledge.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 06.11. 2018 18:07
Hello again,
meanwhile I had contact with Mr. Lindsley. He said that it couldn't be his work which causes the problem, but I can when i wish send it back and he will take it on the schedule. That means for me that he is not interested in doing any warranty work, and if he have a look it will cost me something, also I will have to wait if he is ready.
Therefore I decided to have a look by myself and I put the magneto apart. I noticed no obvious fault, checked the bearing seating at the driveside. I measured the distance of the flange of the inner race of the drive side bearing to the A/R Unit (see pic). Eventually there is someone who can verify if the distance is correct or the A/R Unit is too deep onto the taper. In this case it is wether the Unit or the armature which is faulty and I'will measure some more if possible after instruction how to do.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 06.11. 2018 18:10
I want to replenish that its measured when the Unit grabed the conus.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: morris on 06.11. 2018 19:31
Hi Hans, this is a real head scratcher...
Was that ATD fitted on that magneto originally? A difference of virtually nothing on a taper diameter can make a huge difference in distance. Ideally you should get another ATD to compare. Anyway I do have the impression that the unit sits to far on the shaft. For me it’s either the taper from the shaft or the taper from the ATD which is incorrect
BTW, don’t trust anyone who says it can’t be his fault. *angry*
Any decent person would at least have a second look free of charge certainly if you would offer to pay the sending costs.
Did you ask him to rewind the coil? If so, maybe he took a “pre-refurbished” other shaft to replace your original.  *dunno*
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: kiwipom on 06.11. 2018 19:56
hi guys, Happy Hans ( maybe he took a “pre-refurbished” other shaft to replace your original ) that would be my guess as nothing should have changed apart from the new work i dont think Mr. Lindsay has done himself any flavors with anyone who has read these posts,  good luck, cheers
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Klaus on 06.11. 2018 20:20
Hello Hans,

I have messured 3 ATD on one tapper. 6.7mm, 6.37mm and  6.04 mm.
Sorry I have no other armature to compare.


cheers Klaus
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 06.11. 2018 20:22
 I agree with above- Hans unless I missed something, you haven't said that you were actually using this magneto and/or ATD before....is either a new addition ?

 To me, that ATD definitely looks too close to the bearing, given the outer ring, casing and a seal still needs to be in there *conf2*

 **edit I'd also send a photo of it to Dave Lindsey
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 06.11. 2018 21:03
The magneto I send to him was not complete, only the housing and the armature,with other small parts existed, so that he had to complete it. The magneto was not in action at the bike before because the bike is built from bits and the mag was part of them. Also the A/R Unit was not used before from me, I bought it on fleebay. The two components were not been used together before. If I would have an idea which of the two parts is incorrect that would be a prospect. I think sending Mr. Lindsley this picture is also a chance.

Thanks guys.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 06.11. 2018 21:22
Yes he did rewind the armature, and like I can see it looks the same as the original one I send him because it has the same scratches I noticed on it before.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 06.11. 2018 21:42

 hmmm, then it seems to be a bad situation. I guess you didn't try it for fit before sending it away? That would be ideal....If you told D.L what machine it would be used for, maybe he incorrectly assumed it had been in use...if you didn't tell, he should maybe have asked....I wonder how many different armatures there are that would fit K2F *dunno* - I guess the gurus can answer that....previous owner/seller may or may not have clues *bash*.....

 Maybe as mentioned earlier, the taper may have been ground..... *idea*  in that case, if all else fails, you could try what I did and make a conical shim and so how that goes; not ideal but worked for me for ~ 2,000 miles until the maggie died a natural death anyway....I'll dig the cone out, I know it's not far away...

  Stay Happy Hans   *smile*

Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: groily on 07.11. 2018 08:20
Hmm.
 
Klaus' measurements seem dead right to me, on several armatures and with several ATDs. Always 6mm plus by way of gap.

The tapered section on a K2F (yours has the 18mm bearing at the drive end by the look of it, and if it is a 1954 it should) will be - in round numbers -
*15mm long from narrow end at base of thread to shoulder at the fatter end
*tapr diameter goes from 11mm to 14mm - again in round numbers.
*The threaded section is 11mm long.
*The overall length from face of the brass end cheek to the end of the threaded section is 38.5mm give or take.
(Earlier 15mm armatures are probably exactly the same, but haven't got one to hand to measure.)
If those dimensions are incorrect, then there's a problem with the armature.

I don't think Dave Lindsley has 'done anything' - he'll have worked on what he was presented with and the coil and parts will 99.9% for sure be the ones you sent. He'd have said if not, and there'd have been a discussion about the need for replacement parts.
Had he had the flea-bay ATD you wanted to use with the magneto, he'd probably have been able to point out the problem. If by any chance he did a trial fit of a known-good ATD, I wonder if that threw up any problem? If he did and there wasn't, then the ATD would be the likely area of difficulty. Worth asking the Q maybe.

So, either the armature has a problem with its dimensions or with the state of its taper - I still can't quite figure out why it protrudes only 19mm from the case per your original photo as that is definitely short compared to what I see on mags here - or the centre bolt on the ATD has an enlarged female taper. A small oversize goes a long way on these things as has been said. New bolts are available though.

There will be a solution, there always is, but it needs some careful comparisons with known good bits to get the diagnosis right.

Don't suppose you have a plain pinion or sprocket  you could offer up to the armature to see if that goes on and sits about right? I'm thinking that something might have fitted OK, as otherwise it would have been difficult to conduct dynamic tests on the repaired magneto. You can use a couple of nuts to drive the things anti-clockwise, but most people use tapered drive pieces I think.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Swarfcut on 07.11. 2018 09:33
     Hans,  I can measure 7mm between the ATD  and the bearing inner race. My ATD grips with just hand pressure and the ATD taper is 12.9mm wide at collar. You should aim for something like these dimensions.

  Lots of good stuff for you to check, looks as if you have ended up with the worst of the worst. The magneto shaft /body dimension  needs sorting out.

  I reckon Mr Lindsley will have done a reasonable job, but has missed out on a bit of customer goodwill and confidence. I would continue to try and reach some agreeable compromise or dialogue with him.

   Thanks groily for your precision and sound reasoning.

   Swarfy.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 07.11. 2018 12:39
Thanks for the effort,

I measured the taper diameter of the armature, same as groily, goes from 11mm to 14mm.
The whole length of the threaded end of the shaft to brass end cheek also 38,5mm.
the length of the thread section of the taper also 11 mm.

ATD width at collar the same than swarfis 12,9 mm.

I suppose its not the armature, my suspision ist that the ATD is the part which is wrong. First I want to check the fitting with another ATD, for comparision, I try to organize that.

In this case its not Mr. Lindsleys fault because he hadn't the faulty ATD to recognize the problem.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: KiwiGF on 07.11. 2018 20:15
I’ve only just noticed this thread, it seems the required measurements have been provided but if there is anything else needing measuring let me know, I’ve “collected” a fair bit of mag stuff by buying my two basket cases!

Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: duTch on 07.11. 2018 22:19

 Well worded groily- I was doing my best to diplomatically *not* apportion blame or responsibility, but you did so much better... *wink2*

 The tapers on the bits I have (1 Mag unit, 1ATD, 1 man. gear) all equate to 7/16" small end / 1/2" large end, over 7/16" taper length- much the same as above
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: coater87 on 07.11. 2018 23:39
 If the taper was fooled with just a little bit (internal or external) the fit could be ridiculously far off from new.

 Probably one of the hardest manual machining jobs there is, cut a matching set of internal and external tapers. Now add the difficulty of getting the whole show to be an exact, certain length?  the difficulty just goes up and up.

 Everything is pretty much a one shot, and to get 80% contact you might not get too many seating opportunities with course grinding paste.

 Lee
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: groily on 08.11. 2018 13:18
Ain't that the truth Lee. OK with decent programmable machinery and a toolpost grinder maybe (but don't have either and probably couldn't work it if I did)  . . . but by hand and eye and  trial and error - seriously difficult work!

Luckily, in this case, a decent female component should be findable.

Hans: If you can't find one send a PM (or shout in public on here) and I'll lend you one, with an armature drive end piece to play with too if you want, so you can do some more measuring. Then at least you'll know what you are dealing with.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 08.11. 2018 18:16
Thanks groily for that kind offer,

but Klaus will do that for me, isn't that nice? I hope that the ATD is the guilty part. It would be harder to find and shurely much more expensive if I need another armature.

Regards, Hans.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: groily on 08.11. 2018 21:54
It is nice Hans, very nice. A10/A7 BSA people are good folk!
Let us know how you get on  . . . it will be good to hear the verdict.
Title: Re: auto advance mystery
Post by: Happy Hans on 04.12. 2018 15:36
Hello,

just a short update. Meanwhile Klaus kindly checked the parts. The result was a mixture of a worn armature shaft and a worn ATD inner conus. So we decided to remove so much material from the ATD conus flange, and the inner surface of the fibre gear as needed that the ATD could move freely on the armature , in mounted state. The ATD has now a tight fit on the shaft and works as it should.
I have not run the engine yet, and I hope the fibre gear of the ATD is still strong enough to resist the power at running condition.

Hans.