The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Greybeard on 03.01. 2019 12:18
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RichardL has asked me for details of the retaining method for the rubber that goes between the headlamp shell and the front edge of the cowl, (on cowpat style cowls).
I've taken some photos and I post them here because other folks may need to see them.
The rubber strip has a stepped edge that engages with the cowl edge and a bull-nose edge that is slid through the retaining parts; they appear to have been spot welded to the inside of the cowl.
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COOL, just quick one, what's the best way to get the speedo in to that cowl, mate.
Cheers Thomas.
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Neil,
Thanks,. so much. Those pics do say a lot, but I thought I said "no disassembly." *smile* *good3* What I get from this is to make my clips for a moderate, unsprung, hold on the strip without requiring squishing the bead. Am I correct that there are five clips? Here's a couple of pics of the current state of the sheet metal. Please don't judge me too harshly for the dib-dab look of flux-wire welding, which won't matter at all under the bondo. Anyway, more grinding to come.
Richard L.
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COOL, just quick one, what's the best way to get the speedo in to that cowl, mate.
Cheers Thomas.
Thomas, I'll write it up and put it in its own topic. Keep an eye out for it.
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Thanks,. so much. Those pics do say a lot, but I thought I said "no disassembly." *smile* *good3*
My memory is not trustworthy. I needed to have a fresh look.
What I get from this is to make my clips for a moderate, unsprung, hold on the strip without requiring squishing the bead.
Indeed. They are not really clips; more like retainers; they don't exert any real pressure on the rubber, just hold it in place. Have you obtained the correct profiled rubber strip?
Am I correct that there are five clips?
Yes, five. I see you still have one on your cowl.
Here's a couple of pics of the current state of the sheet metal. Please don't judge me too harshly for the dib-dab look of flux-wire welding, which won't matter at all under the bondo. Anyway, more grinding to come.
Richard L.
It'll all be alright on the night! *smile*
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I thought there might be some interest in seeing the metal that got replaced. The strip at the edge replaces the rusted area and the square replaces the area where I blew through holes too big to weld up. I guess this would have been better with real MIG and argon gas shield, but I assume I'd start out bad at that, too.
GB,
I have yet to acquire any of the rubber bits yet. Thinking Draganfly might be the source. Comments?
Richard L.
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Yes, five. I see you still have one on your cowl.
Yep, but I didn't know if it had been distorted, so I was double-checking with you before replicating it as it is. It's a bit tricky to make the tight bends with a radius on such a small piece, and with only a bench vise and a few basic body dollies and hammers.
Richard L.
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Richard.. Before you get the bondo out, assemble the forks, cowl and headlamp shell. The yokes must lie in the same plane, in other words the stanchions must be parallel. If the yokes are not lined up, the cowl will be raised up at one side and the gap around the top of the headlamp will not be even. With everything as it will be finally positioned, now do your perfection panel work, then proceed to the final finish.
Years ago I bought a genuine cowl from C&D Autos when they were still in Birmingham. It was uneven around the top of the shell, so I took it back, got another, exactly the same. It was fine until the wheel was centred with the bars, then the uneven gap appeared. Turned out I had a bent fork leg, lining up the wheel moved the yokes out of plane, hence the gap. The rubber strip was unavailable then so I made a fake one with a piece of P section door draught excluder. Snag was it was only available in white.
The speedo sits in a big moulded rubber grommet, fit to the cowl first, then insert the speedp and work the internal lips of the grommet over the speedo bezel to secure it in place. Soap or washing up liquid helps lubricate the rubber.
Swarfy
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Swarfy,
That's good advice, even if it does put a damper on the joy of Bondo.
Richard L.
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Let's try and stay on topic.
Richard what about making the clips from copper or brass. Easier to make and they could be soft soldered to the cowl.
I cannot remember where I bought the rubber strip, probably Draganfly. Better see if it's available before you commit to recreating the original clips; you may need to modify the design.
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Let's try and stay on topic.
Richard what about making the clips from copper or brass. Easier to make and they could be soft soldered to the cowl.
I cannot remember where I bought the rubber strip, probably Draganfly. Better see if it's available before you commit to recreating the original clips; you may need to modify the design.
I think I'll be OK with the steel and I think waiting to have the strip is a good idea.
Richard L.
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Peter's classic bike parts has them. (67-5087)
They are good quality and good fit, I can confirm.
https://pcb.shopfactory.com/contents/en-us/d101.html
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Finally got around to replacing the missing rubber retaining clips on my cowpat cowl. Of course, the clips were formed from scrap in the garage and my brazing is the usual ugly, but I think it should work. I know they're not evenly spaced on the arc, but that was what was implied by the left-over broken clips. I'm a bit concerned abought the center clip possibly inhibiting the headlamp from aiming upright enough. Any comment in that regard, uhhh, GB or anyone?
Richard L.
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Finally got around to replacing the missing rubber retaining clips on my cowpat cowl. Of course, the clips were formed from scrap in the garage and my brazing is the usual ugly, but I think it should work. I know they're not evenly spaced on the arc, but that was what was implied by the left-over broken clips.
Good job.
Just to mention, you can soft solder steel and that be would plenty strong enough for that job. Soldering would have been cooler and safer than brazing.
I'm a bit concerned abought the center clip possibly inhibiting the headlamp from aiming upright enough. Any comment in that regard, uhhh, GB or anyone?
I have a feeling that there is no central retainer on mine. I'll have another look at the pictures of my cowl.
I'll check my bike tomorrow to give you a better answer.
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Thanks, GB. Nothing to damage on the other side. No paint or bondo, just a lot of welded and brazed patchwork. I'm anxious to spread the bondo on it, but decided I'd better test fit the rubber that's still on its way.
Richard L.
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Richard,
I remembered that I'd promised to check my headlamp cowl for you.
That screwdriver is 6mm diameter. It goes through the gap between headlamp and cowl rubber with a slight push.
I only see 4 clips today. I thought I had five last time I checked!
I marked their positions with some white tape. The clips are not fixed symmetricaly which is strange. The topmost clip is 15mm to the right of central. I do not remember working on those clips when I restored the bike apart from cleaning and painting.
If you need more, just ask.
Update:
I went back and double checked; there really are only four clips. I'm sorry if my previous post told you that there were five clips. 😕
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GB,
Thanks, very much. I didn't mean to cause you a bunch of disassembly, but I'm very grateful for the pictures. If five is over-crowded I should be able to easily de-braze or grind away the center one. If it's not in the way, well, the more the merrier. I can tell you that I don't think I will have the same headlight-shell-to-cowl gap. I think mine will be smaller even without the sort of rolled-in front lip, which I just realized is probably there for stiffening. Anyway, this saga of tediosity will continue when I receive the rubber strip.
Richard L.
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... I didn't mean to cause you a bunch of disassembly...
NP! It's a matter of about one minute to take out the two headlamp screws.