The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Gearbox, Clutch, Primary => Topic started by: Greybeard on 16.08. 2019 13:30
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The drive chain adjusters on my machine have come to the end of their threads. I guess I need a new chain, (or can I remove a link?). The current chain is not very old but I guess it may be poor quality. Where do you recommend I go for the best quality chain for our bikes?
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Hi Neil. SRM sell Regina chain, which they rate as good quality
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I am using Regina chain and have no concerns I bought it on ebay there are dealers selling Renold and Regina chain. If your present chain has not lasted very long maybe it was not the correct specification for motorcycles, When I was at work 25 years ago we stocked various sizes and quality of Renold chain in the stores and they stocked the correct size chain for my then A10 it was good quality chain but not suitable for motorcycles the links were made from thinner material maybe your present chain is of that sort,when you get a new chain check to see the thickness of the links. The chain on my A7 has been on for about 2 years and has not needed any adjustment, the chain on my A65 has been on for 6 years and I can only recollect adjusting it once. I don't know what happens now but in those days Renold made the same size chain but different specifications depending on what it was intended for
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The drive chain adjusters on my machine have come to the end of their threads. I guess I need a new chain, (or can I remove a link?). The current chain is not very old but I guess it may be poor quality. Where do you recommend I go for the best quality chain for our bikes?
The chainman every time. - https://the-chain-man.co.uk/
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Where do you recommend I go for the best quality chain for our bikes?
I bought Regina chains for both primary and final drive from Andrew at P.M., that's if you can wait until he opens again in Sept.
His site gives the chain sizes etc. for all our different models and he sells either Regina or Elite.
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Neil, good rule of thumb for wear in a chain is how much it bends sideways when off the bike. Is it tending to ride high on the outer teeth (where the chain is about to enter / leave) the sprocket? If so, new chain before you need new sprockets as well.
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I rode over to Stourport to pick up a new chain from Jason, The Chain Man. The chain is German, made by Iwis. I also bought a can of chain lube from him, the sort you heat up on the stove when wifey is not home.
https://the-chain-man.co.uk/
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He does know about chains.
I got the same chain from him and boiled it in chain wax prior to fitting it.
I used a camping stove down the garden.
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Hi Greybeard, The method I have always used to check chain wear is firstly to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket and if it comes away more than about 1/16" I remove it and lay it down straight, compress it together keeping it straight, mark the ends on the floor or where ever it is, then stretch it and see how much it increases in length. This tells you how worn the links are as a total. Works for me. Cheers. Gerry
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Gerry,
My chain adjusters have bottomed. This chain has needed frequent adjustments since it was fitted a couple of years ago. The chain I bought yesterday cost twice the price of the one currently on the bike. I'm expecting good quality.
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Gerry I use same method after washing it in paraffin and petrol *wink2*
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A good clean, just like bergs, then its a soak in the nice hot chain lube. After heating it up and letting the hot chain drip the excess goo back into the tin, I write the date and miles in the solidified lubricant. Then instead of trying to remember last time I did it, just open up the tin. Camping stove outside is safer, but less steady. Indoors if thing go wrong you will in deep !!!! You are faced with walking the melted tin and chain outside, or removing the dripping chain. Both have DISASTER writ BIG.
Swarfy,
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Gerry,
My chain adjusters have bottomed. This chain has needed frequent adjustments since it was fitted a couple of years ago. The chain I bought yesterday cost twice the price of the one currently on the bike. I'm expecting good quality.
Have IWIS from The Chain Man on both plunger and SA.
Tensioned the one on the SA last week for the first time since installation and after 2000 miles . Needed about 3/4 of a turn on the tensioners.
Plunger still good (did a bit less miles)
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I remember when everyone here wanted Diamond chain.
Lee
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I also use chain oil, but the last time i used it in the Greenhouse on a camping stove burner. (because it was windy). Went in the house for a brew 15 minuets later thought i had better check on the chain. Too late i couldn't even see anything inside the Greenhouse because of the smoke.(must remember to keep an eye on it)
ELLIS
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I also use chain oil, but the last time i used it in the Greenhouse on a camping stove burner. (because it was windy). Went in the house for a brew 15 minuets later thought i had better check on the chain. Too late i couldn't even see anything inside the Greenhouse because of the smoke.(must remember to keep an eye on it)
ELLIS
It's normal to have smoke bombs in greenhouses. ;)
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Can remember back in 54 when I was 16 and had bought my brothers 1933 Ariel Red Hunter from him as he was called up and needed the cash,
Went for a holiday down to Dymchurch with a friend on a James Captain. On the way home heard a funny noise and thought it was the shock absorber on the crank shaft. But when I checked that wasn't possible as the spring was coil bound before the cams on the sprocket could pass each other. Turned out after much head scratching and frustration, to be the rear chain sprocket's teeth were just a load of bumps lol. Got another sprocket and all came good. Don't think I changed the chain though. Couldn't afford it anyway. At that time you could buy a brand new 350cc ex WD Ariel, still in the crate for 10 pounds from Pride and Sharks. My brother told me that the Ariel had been raced by a bloke called Hartley long before he got it but don't know how true that was. Open speed limit on the A20 London to Dover yoohoo. Cheers Gerry
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My A10 is cumming up 11,000 miles from rebuild with a new chain from my local bearing service, I have only adjusted it twice in that time, about half a turn each time. I have never had the chain off, to much trouble! I'm lazy! but I keep the chain well lubricate with Pentrite Chain Lube, applied after a ride when chain is worm, if needed.
I think a bit of the problem with excessive chain wear is it is keep to tight, 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" free play in the middle of the chain on the back stand is fine for the A10 SA's.
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Can remember back in 54 when I was 16...
I was 4
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It may seem obvious but I always keep the old chain because if I need to take the chain off for any reason I attach the old chain to the existing one then it makes it very easy to replace I think it would be impossible with a fully enclosed chaincase.
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I attach the old chain to the existing one then it makes it very easy to replace..
Agreed
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Quote from: Gerry on Today at 11:12:41
Can remember back in 54 when I was 16...
I was 4
I just wasn't anything......
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Can remember back in 54 when I was 16...
I was 4
I was 10.
I have a fully enclosed chaincase so have to use the old chain to pull the new chain on.
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Quote from: Gerry on Today at 11:12:41
Can remember back in 54 when I was 16...
I was 4
I just wasn't anything......
Not even a twinkle in your father's eye?
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I've got the new chain on the bike but I'm going to take it off and use a half-link to enable shortening the chain a bit; the adjusters are well out. A whole link would shorten it too much.
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I had high chain wear on mine (I do thrash it a bit..) and have now fitted an O ring chain. Massive improvement, haven't needed to adjust it in the last 1000 miles. Many HD O ring chains are too wide to fit, but my local dealer (who has a 1930s Sunbeam) suggested I try one that he has in stock, and its been brilliant. I'll try and remember/find out what size it was and post it here.
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I've got the new chain on the bike but I'm going to take it off and use a half-link to enable shortening the chain a bit; the adjusters are well out. A whole link would shorten it too much.
Both mine need a half-link
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..... but my local dealer (who has a 1930s Sunbeam) suggested I try one that he has in stock, ............
I guess it didn't work so well on the S-beamer *eek*
..I've got the new chain on the bike but I'm going to take it off and use a half-link to enable shortening the chain a bit; the adjusters are well out. A whole link would shorten it too much.
I don't understand any of that...If it needs shortening, why add any, whether it be a link or a half.... *conf2*..... I bought (from memory), a 100 pitch chain (what I call 50 links) and dropped a link out, and that's been fine for about 10K miles..
If running a 20+T tranny sprocket will need a longer chain anyway..... *dunno*
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..I've got the new chain on the bike but I'm going to take it off and use a half-link to enable shortening the chain a bit; the adjusters are well out. A whole link would shorten it too much.
I don't understand any of that...If it needs shortening, why add any, whether it be a link or a half....
Currently, the adjusters are well extended. If I were to remove a whole link the axle would be too far forward and the large hub nut would be against the suspension shroud, (I tested this). If I remove a whole link and then use a half-link I hope to get the adjusters back to their start position without the axle nut problem.
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Not sure I understand this. ‘currently the adjusters are well extended’ – is that with the old chain? If so, they’ll be far less extended with a new one. If I’ve missed the point, why not use the new chain as is, and then remove a whole link later if necessary? Those half links are weak and prone to failure. Only ever use them as a very last resort.
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Not sure I understand this. ‘currently the adjusters are well extended’ – is that with the old chain? If so, they’ll be far less extended with a new one. If I’ve missed the point, why not use the new chain as is, and then remove a whole link later if necessary? Those half links are weak and prone to failure. Only ever use them as a very last resort.
With a new chain I'd like to see the axle a bit further forward.
I was unaware that half-links are weak. Mind you, the way I ride, the chain is unlikely to break!
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Those half links are weak and prone to failure. Only ever use them as a very last resort.
With a new chain I'd like to see the axle a bit further forward.
I was unaware that half-links are weak. Mind you, the way I ride, the chain is unlikely to break!
I can't see how they can be weak.
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G'day Roy.
As the plates are cranked (go from inner to outer) they have a tendency to be pulled straight and snap at the bends. A good quality one might withstand the massive power of an A10 but it will always be the weak link!
Bend a bit of wire into a Z then pull on the ends. It will straighten.
Cheers
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....With a new chain I'd like to see the axle a bit further forward.....
That's probably why I dropped a link to start with, but having thought it through, next time I'll leave it in and take it out later, that way in theory I'll have 1% less wear *wink2*, as suggested by RDt2
.......Currently, the adjusters are well extended. If I were to remove a whole link the axle would be too far forward and the large hub nut would be against the suspension shroud,.......
Ok- now I'm with the programme; I don't have shrouds, and after 10K miles still have only about 1/4" betwixt the nut and rebound spring -just enough for a spanner