The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Bikes, Pictures, Stories & more => Introductions, Stories, Meetings & Pictures => Topic started by: Rocket Racer on 09.03. 2020 01:45
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I was recently pondering restarting my (social grade) race career with Bender my 1955 road rocket sidecar now it has finally come out of a storage unit having last run two years ago in May. Well it struck me I should build (or buy) a solo classic racer and after looking online at numerous things that didnt float my boat realised an A7ss racer might be just the ticket!
As luck would have it a tatty 1955 twin frame came up and I bought it. I have engine plates/triple clamps/hubs/gearboxes to build in (as I find them), so will start by getting the frame repaired (appears to have been repaired with liquid nails *help* ), hopefully the bottom rails are dented rather than rotten, but we'll see. Then I'll start dummying bits together while I sort Bender in time for the HAGD on 30th May at Taupo. I have a lead on an ex race A7 engine but that's a deal not yet done. I think I have an oil tank. Will need to see what I can turn up.
Attached is a picture of the prospective project...I still have my 54 road rocket to rebuild too!
Tim
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G'day RR.
You'll luv it mate. Bikes are supposed to lean into corners. LOL
Cheers
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just in time Tim. with that plan of yours to sell some motorcycles, i thought you needed another project ;)
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just in time Tim. with that plan of yours to sell some motorcycles, i thought you needed another project ;)
Mike
you know me too well, my new garage and loft has yet to have a workspace organised and all the bikes bar the odd black v twin from stevenage have been sitting in storage so are all in need of minor recommissioning once I can find tools and clear space...
I'm trying to clear a garage corner so I can tear the top off bender, will shift a further 3 bikes up into the loft to allow me to temporarily work in the garage. have moved one up there already. I think I've got most of the main bits to build up another bike around this frame but engine wise only have 650 spares while will want to run in 500 class.
Am thinking it may be worth running an a50 crank and sleeving to a50 pistons so I can run large journal.
Look forward to hearing about the BSA annual rally, which I didnt have a BSA available for *problem*
Tim
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seem to be having difficulties uploading files at present but have a nice set of wheels built. QD rear and half sided knock out holes front, both on 19" alloys *smile*
thinking about an Avon GP rear and a SM mk2 on the front both in A25 compound *conf2*
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have a set of '60 a7ss cases and a daggy head with exhaust stubs added... needs work
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G'day RR.
Fair bit of porting there. I ran a pair of 32's on mine.
Bugga, I HAD two of them on the shelf *sad*
Cheers
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To get more traction with the 50's machines have sold the rocket three and the lightning, which has cleared a bit of space and will assist funding the A7ss. Have lined up an a65 10 under crank, but still need a useful barrel. So still some big dots to join before I can start mocking up what I have of a bike.
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wow must have given that some thought selling rocket 3, although I sold my trident 32 years ago tripped on acid *countdown* I wish I still had it now *bash*
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wow must have given that some thought selling rocket 3, although I sold my trident 32 years ago tripped on acid *countdown* I wish I still had it now *bash*
Cant complain, there's a black shadow in my garage and with my 55 race road rocket and the 54 road rocket (sitting right next to me in my office) am pretty blessed by the motorcycle gods. *respect*
Have some goodies lined up, hopefully this wont jinx them including: a fibreglass race tank, CR box, a 10 under a65 crank, loan of an a50 flat tracker crank (to modify the a65 crank to similar spec) and a barrel ... eta next wednesday night all going to plan. This should give me all the big bits and a plan.
Did finally track down an intermittent fault on my B33, the horn wasnt tight and could earth when the bike hit a bump and pop the fuse. very pleased to have found that. took me a while and fair few popped fuses while I searched for the cause. *doh*
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lockdown making things slow, but hoping to get my frame back next week (repairs) and have also just got a set of tapered rollers for the headstock and this bit of bling turned up
*smile*
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G'day RR.
Does that TD top triple require shorter stanchions to keep the same geometry?
Cheers
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G'day RR.
Does that TD top triple require shorter stanchions to keep the same geometry?
Cheers
Must do some reading on this. I recall the TD kits have longer fork bushes than original and the damper rod lengths differ from the lengths used by original triple clamps. the stanchion clamp rather than being parallel is an 1 1/4" lower. Let me think about this at rest the bushes meet, so if they are 1 1/4" longer then they would be the same?.. but then the spring preload would still be different... stiffer so might need to adjust my pie and beer consumption to tune the forks ;)
It does look good on the bench next to me, mind you so does the road rockets reco'd head fresh from the shop.
Looking forward to assembling the RR head and next week mocking up some of these A7 bits. We go back to level 2 covid restrictions from Monday so might be able to collect some other bits I have lined up including a fuel tank, a better barrel & a CR box
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am still on fence whether to build it as a clubmans class bike or for open modified. the latter requires more "investment" to go faster.
currently erring towards clubmans where I'd have to use a stock 4 speed and SL front brake. I'm thinking initially clubmans class to see how competitive we are.
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Yes it's the old saying "how fast do you want to spend"
Cheers
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If all goes to plan I hope to have the frame back repaired, source the petrol tank, a CR box and a suitable barrel this sunday. may then be able to start offering bits together into a preliminary mock up.
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Hi RR,
I posted some pictures of the TD fork bushes , I think in my post about the dampers?
An issue with fitting the TD top yoke is that it moves the stanchions down so where the bottom yoke clamps can have moved to the non parallel part of the leg
Some time ago Autocycle Eng. Had stanchions that are parallel all the way at the top end, which also helps with fixing clip on bars
John
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Hi RR,
I posted some pictures of the TD fork bushes , I think in my post about the dampers?
An issue with fitting the TD top yoke is that it moves the stanchions down so where the bottom yoke clamps can have moved to the non parallel part of the leg
Some time ago Autocycle Eng. Had stanchions that are parallel all the way at the top end, which also helps with fixing clip on bars
John
John,
yes thats been on my mind and something I havent sourced yet. the sliders I have are mid sixties A65 half sided type so should have damper rods which I dont have. So do need to start progressing pulling together the missing front end bits. I'll investigate autocycle eng.
appreciate that. While I have what resembles a complete front end, in practice the stanchions, bushes and damping are all still required.
Thanks
Tim
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Hi RR,
I posted some pictures of the TD fork bushes , I think in my post about the dampers?
An issue with fitting the TD top yoke is that it moves the stanchions down so where the bottom yoke clamps can have moved to the non parallel part of the leg
Some time ago Autocycle Eng. Had stanchions that are parallel all the way at the top end, which also helps with fixing clip on bars
John
I've emailed them
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Interestingly had a contact back from the stanchion supplier John put me onto, they typically recommend shortening the stanchions so they stay the same height.
However more news and it had me recounting monty python; "ye seek the graile" as I have now sourced the biggest missing part I wanted as well as some petrol tanks and some new CR gears for a box.
I have in my possession now a slightly battered (needs a fin and resleeving) genuine small fin Daytona barrel *dribble*, it makes my thick flange a10 barrel look quite flimsy.
Just shows what BSA were up to in the states to do what they did! Will include pictures showing side by side with stock A7 barrel
Yes BSA made small fin super thick flange a7 barrels! (5/8")
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G'day RR.
You found the pot of gold there mate.
Wish I had those barrels on my racer, and tank too.
Cheers
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Nice one RR, those A7 barrels look to be well bored out though, mine were @ 80 thou over.
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Nice one RR, those A7 barrels look to be well bored out though, mine were @ 80 thou over.
Mine would count as 80 thou over... on an a10 *eek*
Looks like it got taken out as far as possible, also has several helicoils so hardly mint. Does need TLC.
Certainly some way off looking as pristine as yours and too big to take an a7 std cylinder sleeve. I hadnt realised how common they are, every other forum members got one ;D
But I think I can do something with it. The answers usually money *shh*.
The brand new 1st and 2nd gears I've got will convert a STD box to the ratio's 1.932, 1.46,1.1 & 1 which gives me a 50+ mph first once I actually fix all my knackered bits (on the bike) and build it ;)
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This is the one you want, A10 version as used by Gene Theisen
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Hi RR,
I just saw these TD long fork bushes on ebay (nothing to do with me)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-GOLD-STAR-DOW-FORK-BUSHES/293756167339
John
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Thanks John, I'm going to get some hard chromed gold star type stanchions and shorten the tops and recut the threads given the stanchions will be visible having clip ons fitted.
I seem to have a sufficient decent pile of largely shagged parts now to claim there might be a motorcycle, so will start cleaning them up and getting them repaired.
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frames still being retubed, waiting on some parts to consider, forks are also with engineer. Hoping to have enough bits to at least start mocking up and get excited about. I think realistically this bikes going to take a little while to figure out my options.
I did recently source a good 2nd hand a65 cam and some followers to add to the options list
the combination timing side bearings turned up.
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rearset footrests... are these std or homemade?
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G'day RR.
At first glance they look like plunger type but the mounting hole looks much smaller. Have the holes been sleeved?
Cheers
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G'day RR.
At first glance they look like plunger type but the mounting hole looks much smaller. Have the holes been sleeved?
Cheers
anythings possible, perhaps welded up?
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G'day RR.
Looks like they are for rear sets. The weld on lugs have a hex hole.
Cheers
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Hi RR, here are some rear sets I have for my Goldy when I eventually get to it.
The plates and tube is what I made for my LSR A10.
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Hi RR
I think those solid footrests are C 10/11/12, they use a 7/16 hexagon fitting, can you see a part number on them
Would you believe there are several variants and some are well sought after
John
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Hi RR
I think those solid footrests are C 10/11/12, they use a 7/16 hexagon fitting, can you see a part number on them
Would you believe there are several variants and some are well sought after
John
I think your right, they look just like the ones on the C12 (a project I'll probably never get to) in the corner. They should do as a starting point
Thanks guys
Tim
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Tim, I think those pegs will present a problem, the off set is much greater than what the Goldys run with, also the length from mount hole to peg is much greater as well. Also them pegs have only 6 radial positions to choose from, (the Goldy rear sets have 12) and lastly, if you intend to run a kicker “you can’t”.
I have no doubt you will make it work though.
Best of luck mate.
Thomas.
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Tim, I think those pegs will present a problem, the off set is much greater than what the Goldys run with, also the length from mount hole to peg is much greater as well. Also them pegs have only 6 radial positions to choose from, (the Goldy rear sets have 12) and lastly, if you intend to run a kicker “you can’t”.
I have no doubt you will make it work though.
Best of luck mate.
Thomas.
Thomas, all good points! This month the focus is on racing the road rocket in early feb, then a road ride on my zb33 to Christchurch (over 2000km) eo Feb (subject to lockdowns). The A7 frames at my engineers still awaiting partial retubing (front down tube from the headstock) and rearset brackets, then forks and I'll start mocking up. I have a pile that could form an engine but havent decided bore and stroke. currently torn between from 67 to 70mm bores, but all options involve a custom crank to suit with a stroke from70mm (as per a75) to 64mm. I'd like to source an old a7 piston so I can ponder effect of altered gudgeons on rod length/stroke/deck height. I'm hoping I can have this bike built for next summer. I'm also still looking at my 54 road rocket engine that theoretically just needs assembly too. That keep getting put aside and deserves some time. The various maintenance tasks of the three old bikes I have going certainly impact time I can spend on the other two (first world problems) Once I get some large parts home I'll post some more pics and thoughts
Tim
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Thos footrests are C10 - C11 ones
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Thanks to Beeza, I have a pair of rearset footrest brackets for the frame which I hope to have back in the next month. Will be nice to start mocking up the rolling chassis. With two road rocket motor builds sitting ahead of the A7 motor I'm currently thinking I need to adopt KISS approach and build around the a65 crank I have. To keep the capacity I see I can get std A50 taiwanese FUH Jiunn pistons that look serviceable from steadfast cycles. I probably wont decide on a specific barrel until I pull down my sidecar motor as that is a shortened barrel that might be a contender to sleeve. Am thinking my small fin barrel might get a bit hot on petrol. I also have some unfinished alloy barrels courtesy of Zurferjoe to somehow fit into my builds. Being alloy they should shed heat better as well as some useful weight reduction.
Nothing happening immediately, have a ZB33 to fettle for a trip next week (subject to lockdown restrictions being lifted)
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progress glacial, at least wheels are built and plan forming. Aim is still to get the rolling chassis in place then throw money at the engine.
hopefully end up with something like Dick Klamfoth replica or at least in that vein.
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project is looking good.
are you going to bore out std a7 cases to fit a imperial a65 drive side bearing? i have a shooting star project very similar to yours and the only other option i can think off is hard chroming the crank bearing journal.
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project is looking good.
are you going to bore out std a7 cases to fit a imperial a65 drive side bearing? i have a shooting star project very similar to yours and the only other option i can think off is hard chroming the crank bearing journal.
more good points, sadly havent got that far. I ran into a similar issue with rear brake hubs where the later unit ones have different bearing sizes - machining / spacers needed. I'm planning to use the finned bolt on sprocket type and run 520 chain also so I can easily gear for circuits. As planning on using a BNR primary ratio is 1:2 and not variable.
My engineer who does all my frame repairs and way more is having a hard time, his teenage son (15) is dealing with cancer treatment, poor kid being unable to walk and needed surgery and now doing all the other nasty treatment, chemo and radiotherapy. I have some empathy as my 1st wife dealt with cancer for over 12 years before she passed and it was pretty brutal on everyone. So all my works on a go slow as it should while people deal with real problems.
On a more positive note I had a useful conversation with the classic racing technical rep, I wasnt sure if I could run the glass goldie type tank I'd been given but apparently a fair number of people still use f/glass tanks for racing, so that saves me some dough for the immediate future and looks the part *wink2*.
Planning to keep the oil tank color green and fork sliders and frame black. The front wheel hubs been swapped over to a wider half sided A65 front brake for the wider shoes.
Looking for suitable compression (and drilled rather than slotted oil hole) A50 pistons is posing problems. I made a couple of UK inquiries about getting some made without much success as I dont want 20. So for the time being focusing on rolling chassis and then gearbox.
Still undecided about seat direction, perhaps a wooden base?
To answer an earlier question this bike won't run a kicker. It'll be run and bump - track use only
Several other bikes also competing for my limited time and money (another first world problem to bear) Did finally flick off a couple of complete basket case bikes I was never going to get to, a C11 and a C12. So I'm down to five bikes I love and three are BSA pre unit twins.
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I was chatting to a BSAOC member who has a collection of goldies, oh the hardships. Anyway was interested to see if he could lend me a dogleg rearset bracket so I could get some recast to make a set. He did one better and called around on one of his bikes and gave me an old pair that had been chromed and one repaired. Very worth while *wink2*
Was also discussing seats and he suggested a fibreglass base, possibly with an alloy tail. The one on his goldie was home made but you wouldnt know. It was nicely done.
Lastly he was quite interested in my fork bushes, suggested I shortened them to reduce stiction. I've always considered the longer they are the more supported the slider is at full extension. The ones I have look just like the ones Eddie Dow used to sell. Not something I had considered and still a little dubious of (shortening them).
Spend some of the weekend bogging up my oil tank. Its been in the wars but should scrub up and fine for a track bike. Unfortunately found a split in a seam so its being welded up.
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I'd initially planned to keep the oil tank green, but a preliminary spray has changed my mind. To keep the theme with my sidecar Bender and because the fibreglass tank is silver; the oiltank will go silver too.
I think I've finally found a useful piston manufacturer who can make me a pair of custom pistons so will be keeping this motor 1/2mm undersize initially to keep it under 500cc with the A50/65 stroke. So its probably also time to start collecting other engine parts like some 6" map rods.
My master plan is to have all three of my twin port preunit twin beesa's built and running this year.
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Its been a funny couple of weeks, getting the sidecar engine ready for easter happened and its hung together so have been progressing the 54 road bike and thats coming together *smile*, the solo had run into some delays: a new shortened fork stanchion had gone walkies, but has turned up so am also progressing the bearing spacer for the rear drum to fit a later finned qd with removeable sprocket so I can readily gear to specific circuits (assuming fixed belt drive ratio).
My racing on the sidecar was a bit underwealming with minor issues messing up qualifying (so gridded at the back) only to be followed by an accident in front of us holding us up sufficiently to lose the pack and end up circulating on our own, ending with a lost rocket spindle bolt which curtailed the weekend. This did have me pondering if I really want to keep racing but this did push through my mental haze that the solo chassis is the correct year for my sidecar engine so I can always potentially build a clubmans road bike if I dont follow through building as a 500.
I suspect the oil tanks about to get painted black...
fairings off the sidecar at present couldnt resist offering it up to the solo
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still making glacial progress, the sliders didnt want to go through the bottom triple clamp so need easing out and the rear unit QD hub now has a modified ground bearing to fit with preunit peripherals. the brake plates still needs modification to have clearance. So the rolling chassis still not on its feet.
Did have an interesting conversation with a g45 owner, pistons look comparable and the right size and similar combustion details. also larger a10 equivelent gudgeon unlike most bsa 250/500 twin pistons...