The BSA A7-A10 Forum

Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: rocket man on 25.11. 2009 19:32

Title: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: rocket man on 25.11. 2009 19:32
this is a gasket srm do which i think is a good idea
as it does away with the washer
Title: Re: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: muskrat on 26.11. 2009 11:54
Good idea. I have seen many pumps distorted due to the wrong thickness washer. It's on my next SRM shopping list.
Cheers
Title: Re: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: Desburnett on 26.11. 2009 15:46
I used this type as it was included in the gasket set from SRM. I belive it was derived from the later A50 A65 engines but is retro fit for our A7s and A10s
Title: Re: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: DazSeaton on 06.03. 2013 20:32
Good idea. I have seen many pumps distorted due to the wrong thickness washer. It's on my next SRM shopping list.
Cheers
worried now. when i reassemled my pump after replacing the worm drive i put a m6 metal washer behind the front bolt to bring the drive forward as the rev counter spindle seemed to be dragging on the rear of the exit hole in the timing case (although this was before bolting the cover on. think will strip down and remove it. perhaps will expand the hole in the timing case instead.

Title: Re: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: muskrat on 07.03. 2013 00:47
Would be better to make a gasket like the A50/65 the thickness required to get the rev counter spindle right. Once that hole is opened up it's not std anymore, and may cause problems further down the track,
Cheers
PS, the thickness of the inner timing cover to crankcase gasket can also be a factor.
Title: Re: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: nagrod on 07.03. 2013 00:57
I left the front bolt washer/gasket out by mistake, what happened to me was that it put just enough stress on the tach drive spindle to break the ears off it. I didn't discover it until the tach quit.

Rick '60 A10
Title: Re: bsa a10 oil pump gasket
Post by: A10Boy on 07.03. 2013 13:45
The pump face is machined to a flat plane, so is the crankcase so in theory the gasket washer on the stud needs to be the same thinckness as the gasket. I always check the pump with a straight edge and when I put them back together I cut out a washer sized piece of the old gasket and use that on the front fixing instead of a hard washer. I do this on all A10s and it works well. I guess that's what the SRM gasket is doing.