The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Shaun on 30.12. 2009 22:03
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Gentlemen i presume there is a spring on the n/s fitted to the brake pedal pivot area on 58 has any one a picture or could point me in the rite direction
i would also like an idea of what the corect brake switch should be
Many thanks Shaun
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Shaun,
The spring is part number 42-4355. It goes inboard of the pedal and clips to the lower edge of the pedal and around the frame above the sidecar lug.
The brake light switch is part number 19-1114. It mounts to a plate on the frame on the rear of the loop.
The switch is the standard rectangular shape used by most makers in those years. You have to watch that you get a "pull on" type.
These parts in pattern form are readily available.
Trev.
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Thanks trevor i will have a go again in the morning ,i have a new spring but couldnt figure it ,began to think it was one i had got for the m21
The switch i have a rectangular one but i see that on most frames i have managed to find photos of have what looks like a small bracket welded to the frame at the place you mention to accept the switch i do not have this on my frame i am perplexed and about to have a large whiskey
many thanks Shaun
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Shaun,
Have the whiskey then check your frame number.
The GA7 frames do not have the plate as the switch is mounted on the toolbox.
Your frame should be FA7 if it is '58.
The plate is easy enough to make and tack to the frame.
Shown is the switch and mount on my '58 and the brake pedal spring set-up on my '62. Note the switch position on the '62.
Trev.
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Blimey trevor i must be mad its cold out there !yes the frame is GA7 does it still use the same switch ?
I have the wrong spring it starts of ok at the pedal but has a straight bit instead of the curved part to wrap around the frame i have the old one or think i have but this is way out of shape !
Thanks again, looks like you have cleaned it
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Shaun,
Have a look again at the brake pedal picture, it is on a GA7 frame.
The switch is the "D" shaped object above the pedal with the arm projecting.
Not cold here. Raining and 27 degrees.
I haven't cleaned either bike. The '58 is a long way from finished and the '62 is waiting for my mate to paint the tank.
I can then finish it. They are both covered in dust!
Trev.
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I see the switch now didnt recognise it as one none of the parts books shows anything like that got a jumble coming up so will be able to get both i hope,put some oil in the tank today tempting to start it in the next few days .
Many thanks again Trevor *smile*
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Shaun,
Another thing. Check your brake pedal. The '58 will have a hole for the switch spring and the later will have a dowel for the lever in the same place.
Good luck finding a switch for the later frame. They were complete garbage and didn't last.
Also they come in several different forms. The one I have isn't original but a different type that I modified.
There is also a rubber boot to protect the works from the weather.
Trev.
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The new spring i was looking at was a kicksart spring der !in the cold light of day ,all be it a few days later, its so bloomin obvious,i have checked the frame no- firstly i dug out the log book the frame no is CA7153--- listed as 57 in the log book i have looked at bsa dating site but am not getting it ? help ! the engine no seems correct ,the brake pedal has a stud on top this i believe is the later one i think my solution is to make a back bracket for the earlier one but why is the welded one missing? this brings me back to the identity of the frame i have powder coated the frame and gave it a 2nd hot coat this has made it extra thick and can barely make out the letters the c could be a g but i dont think this would be sending me in the right direction for identifying and i am reluctant to remove the powder coating thus far
I bought the machine because it has a Blacknell 2 man sidecar this was great for us to holiday around france in as a familly and was sold as a gold flash so ?!
Happy new year to all
Shaun :!
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Shaun,
If your frame is CA7 153, that would make it early 1954.
CA7 frames didn't have the sidecar mount in the rear loop as shown above.
A frame that early would not have any cast front engine mount lugs on the front down tube, only 4 tubular lugs.
All frames except GA7 have the switch mounting plate welded to the loop.
A '58 frame should have an FA7 prefix. The Flash engine number prefix became DA10 for 1958, CA10 before.
Does your rear brake lever on the brake plate point up or down?
Up with the cable adjuster in the casting on FA7, down with the cable adjuster in a fitting on the torque arm anchor point on GA7.
After all this time and probably many disasters, you could have anything.
Trev.
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Hi Shaun,
You could always mount a universal switch as LJ has done here
http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,2160.0.html
My 61 SR should have the D shaped switch, beware there are several variations if you can find one
It took me a long time to get the correct one, up till then I used a flat plate bolted to the hole in the toolbox
on this I mounted an industerial micro switch with lever,
HTH
John O R
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The engine no is DA1071-- and the lever on the brke plate points down the lug for side car is not in the hole s per your pic Trevor
I do have a universal switch i could maybe fudge up John
just a thought should i run bike in without the sidecar on
many thanks shaun
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Thought i best add some pictures Trevor to see what your thoghts are on the frame there is a bracket on the tube under the tank would this be another head steady do you think
thanks Shaun
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sorry didnt get them all first time
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just a thought should i run bike in without the sidecar on
Hi Shaun...
If your considering running in the engine while bike is solo, Do be extremely careful while riding with those Avon Triple Duty tyres! They are not cornering tyres and I almost guarantee you'll be off, especially in wet weather and or snow/ice. Probably also the front fork springs will be of heavy duty and you'll know about it when going over bumps and holes. If you are able to ride bike with sidecar and not with lots of ballast, and sidecar is reasonably light, then I suppose it might be okay to run the engine this way. *Experts correct me If I am wrong about this*
Cheers!
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In truth i was thinking of just changing the front tyre if i had to run it in solo so thanks for that, the sidecar is two man so bit on the heavy side as for ballast i wasnt going to include her indoors for the initial runs !
shaun
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Just a few thoughts, Shaun.
I would guess that your frame is a GA7 and the rear wheel belongs to it.
The extra bracket on the frame top tube could be anything, but a head steady seems to be a logical guess. I have never seen anything like that before.
Your primary cover is post 1960.
Possibly the bike has had a disastrous crash in the past and has been repaired with a donor bike.
If you open your toolbox and find a hole drilled through the inner below the mounting studs, this will indicate a late box.
The regulator mounting changed during 1960 also.
Is your rear chain guard missing?
Does your frame have a full gusset or half gusset wrapped around the head stock?
Your gearbox is pre 1960.
Which fuel tank do you have? Pear shaped or round badges?
The generator is pre 1958. 1958 onward has a pressed metal end cover.
Regarding running in. These bikes must have been available new with a sidecar. Surely the owners didn't remove the sidecar to run in the bike.
If you keep your engine spinning freely and don't load it heavily, change gears and work it through the rev range, it should be OK.
I would like to see others opinions on this.
It looks like you have a nice machine, whatever it's origins enjoy it. After all, it is all BSA!
When you get it all together, post a picture.
Trev.
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On the running in subject I guess everyone has their own ideas, for me by the time I get to the end of the street its run in I reckon. The thing is its like Trev says, no extremes. Dont rev the bike hard and dont let it work, just ride it normally for the first 1,000 miles or so until you start thrashing it.
I dont use any special running in oils or anything like that.
My basic procedure for a new motor (or complete restoration) is,
1. I put the oil in that the bike will use, for me thats a 20/50 multigrade (Valvoline XLD Premium)
2. Start the engine and have a quick look to make sure no obvious oil leaks or anything like that.
3. Go for a ride but stop after about 20 miles and once again have a quick look for anything obvious, continue and do about 100 miles.
4. Change oil and check bike over.
5. At 500 miles change oil again and do tappets, check chain tension etc.
6. Change oil again at 1,000 miles and every 1,000 miles thereafter, ride however you want from now on.
It works for me.
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Brian,
Like you, I tend to run them in to the end of the street.
I was horrified a few years ago when my mate didn't even run his in that far.
Fifteen years and thousands of miles later, it is still going great.
Trev.
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I do have a chain guard but it is not the fully enclosed one i am unsure that i would want it enclosed and have not been tempted by locating one so far,the tank is pear shape badge ,atatched is a pic of the frame as unsure on you question Trevor ,i have found an advert for the Blacknell side car its the san remo and it does date from 57 !the primary cover i wondered if it had been changed for ease of adjustement given the sidecar , i heve the four spring fitted with srm alloy plate ,the gear box i purchased from a guy who rebuilds em the old one being a bit slack he is encouraging me to put the five speed in he said he would fit it in box for nowt but i have to do some miles before i can spend that !
So gents run it in with side car it looks at mo !
Thanks Shaun
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Shaun,
That is definitely a GA7 frame. It has the full gusset around the headstock. Your tank is also a GA7 one.
Trev.