The BSA A7-A10 Forum

Technical => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 18:09

Title: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 18:09
i purchased a rather nice a10 that has had a full rebuild at some point but came with one rather persistant problem...i can fix that i thought....mmm...well i cant so i need the forums help, this bike is driving me nuts..i have a pile of hair on the floor next to me !
Here we go...are you all ready for this..the bike starts almost first kick and will cruise all day around 40mph..if i give the bike anything like a bit of prolonged higher speed running it
starts to miss then sometimes back fires and the cuts out..i the let the bike rest for 5 mins and it will then start...but its just the same scenario,magneto i thought_so i went and bought a thorspark electronic ignition..i spent a full day fitting it and guess what...the a10 has the same fault...i have checked the valve clearances and they are fine..it has new ht leads..caps..plugs..srm rebuilt head...rebuilt crank..bores pistons..new pushrods..rebuilt dyno..12v conversion...the list goes on...any ideas please.

cheers
andy
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: mike667 on 13.06. 2010 18:22
simple but  - restricted gas flow? have you checked the petcocks and  made sure the gas cap vent is working -  my old ducati did the same damn thing it turned out there was rust/debris in the carb float bowls that got sucked up at higher RPMs and  restricted top end

m
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 18:30
hi..there is good flow from the tank and i swapped petrol caps with another a10....it made not a hoot of difference  *sad2*
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: andy2565 on 13.06. 2010 18:50
if it runs all day at 1/2 throttle then i guess its a carb problem,is it a monobloc,never that keen on those for riding just try another carb maybe.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: LJ. on 13.06. 2010 19:30
Sounds exactly like my M21! and the problem there was that the needle had dropped out of its clip, has yours done the same? What's happening is that your running around on pilot jet... (I think!)
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: mike667 on 13.06. 2010 19:44
....is it a monobloc,never that keen on those for riding ......

thats crazy talk!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: groily on 13.06. 2010 19:48
Probably is a fuel problem/carb problem - but are you sure the ignition is set right and is giving enough advance?
Does it rev well in the lower gears or does the same thing happen as revs/throttle opening rise in any gear?
Whatever, it's not a big deal and it'll be fine when you've sussed it.
Check the air slide (choke) if it has one is not part-closed even when you think it's open; check the plugs are correct; but above all check the timing's right at full advance and that the needle and main jets and throttle slide are correct, ditto the needle (in the correct groove) and there are no blockages on the taps or at the carb. Btw, there's owt wrong with a Monobloc IMHO - excellent devices!
Hope you didn't spend all that money on all those bits just for this!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 20:02
Hi the needle is set perfect..choke is perfect...timing is spot on...engine purrs and revs out a treat...if i get on it and ride i can ride with gusto for about a mile...motor runs beautiful..revs out in every gear..no smoke ect... then its curtains...misfires then stops...just cuts out....argghhh   *sad2*
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 20:09
i should do a you tube video for you all
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: trickytree on 13.06. 2010 20:24
No offence meant at all but I have just had exactly that problem with my lawnmower *eek*

That turned out to be a blocked fuel pipe. It would run a bit, splutter to a halt...leave it (while carb filled up again) then off it would go again. I have no idea what it was but it took the air line to blow it out and whatever it was landed miles away...it went with a right pop.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 20:32
i have installed  new fuel pipes and fuel delivery to the carb is very good...i have also fitted a brand new battery..the bike is charging ok and the oil flow is very good..i did a test today...when it cut out i closed the taps and took the side cover of the float chamber on the monobloc to see if it had run dry...nope it was full of petrol... *conf*
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: coater87 on 13.06. 2010 20:36
 Hi,

 This sounds like a heat build-up problem. And after everything you have done its probably not going to be an easy to find one either.

 Like old Chevys, here is a couple of things I would look at first. Is the petrol pipe routed too close to the the engine and its picking up heat? Does the carb have a very good gasket at the head mount, and is it tight? (heat opening a gap where they meet after a short run).

 Another thing I would try before I tore everything apart again, is build some type of quick heat shield, (like a piece of tin) and slide/strap this between the carb and the head- try to protect as much of the fuel system as possible (underside of the tank and fuel pipes too). Then go for a ride and see if it makes any diff at all. This will eliminate an awful lot of things and its quick to do.

 I could be way off base here, but I have seen this twice on different vehicles now. Its not that the engine is overheating at all, its just something very minor that heat effects.

 Lee
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: MG on 13.06. 2010 20:45
Andy,
It looks like you have a problem that is caused by high engine temp.
If it was a blocked fuel line the engine wouldn't run when cold.

After you have made sure that ignition and fuel supply/carb/carb-head-connection are okay (also at high engine temps!), a possible failure that comes to mind is a sticking (presumably exhaust) valve. The valve stem expands and once the engine temperature reaches a certain level the valve is stuck in the guide if there is insufficient play (or carbon deposits/corrosion in the guide).
Next time the bike stops take the inspection covers off and see if the valves move freely and close properly. If the backfiring and missing happens on just one cylinder, that is where you will have to look first.
If both cylinders are affected, it is more likely to be a carb problem I'd think.

Good luck, Markus
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 21:45
the problem is worse when the weather is hot...if its a  hot day the fault occurs quicker...i did wonder myself if it is a sticking  valve as we tried a carb of another a10,although it was off a 1960 model and the fault did not go away..i am just looking at some reciepts that came with the bike and the head was repaired by srm in 1995 and the bike has coverd 2000 miles since...it had a repair to the actual ..head and 4new valve guides ..2 rockers..valve seats...4 new valves with hard chrome stems and new valve springs..i wonder if when the bike cuts out the valve slackens off as the engine cools...cheers to everybody who is helping
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: bsa-bill on 13.06. 2010 21:52
Hi a10sausage
Have you tried a hotter plug
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 22:01
i will try a hotter set of plugs that may work,i still have this horrible feeling about the valves though!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: chaterlea25 on 13.06. 2010 22:09
Hi Andy
A frustrating problem indeed????
When the bike cuts out, try gently kicking it over and see if the compression is good
Also check the oil feed to the cylinder head, the holes in the feed bolts are easily blocked!!
It would seem that the bike has not been used much since the work was done on it, have you contact with the previous owner? did he have the same problems
If the bike was lying idle did you clean out the oiltank and sump filter before running it??
if there was sludge it might have blocked the head oil feed, leading to sticky valves

Check also the battery voltage the electronics are sensitive to high or low voltage???

HTH
John O R
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 13.06. 2010 22:20
hi..i bought the bike from a friend and i knew its history..i bought it knowing about the fault..i just liked the bike so much and wanted to sort it out..i will remove the rocker oil feed bolts tomorow,i have another high oil delivery set somewhere in the garage with enlarged holes...i will fit these if i can find them and see how we get on..thanks for the help..ps the bike runs an external oil filter and i do know that the oil has been changed very regular 
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: wilko on 14.06. 2010 02:43
Next time you test and it starts to cutout, immediately shut off fuel and remove the bowl cover Then see how much fuel is  in it. That way fuel can't leach into it in the time span it's taken to  remove it.You are checking the top banjo screen for filth aren't you?
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: wilko on 14.06. 2010 02:45
By the way, can i have your knackered maggy!!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: RichardL on 14.06. 2010 02:45
This sounds like a heat build-up problem. And after everything you have done its probably not going to be an easy to find one either....Is the petrol pipe routed too close to the the engine and its picking up heat?

I zoomed way in on your photo. Adding to what Lee said, it appears that your fuel line is running between the slide chamber of the carb and the cyclinder head. Is this correct? This is a hot location. Moreover, it appears that your fuel line is covered in stainless braid. The stainless will retain, transmit and spread heat much more efficiently than rubber. If rubber is near heat that doesn't actually melt it, it will not conduct or hold it well. Now, maybe a heated fuel line isn't the issue, but if it is a possibility, it seems that it would be encouraged by the apparent routing.

Richard L.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: Rocket Racer on 14.06. 2010 05:21
you mention running consistently above 40mph, does it actually rev out nicely in the lower gears or is the problem effectively limiting speed and revs even for a short sharp blast?

Going back to your fuel flow did you do a decent test of a litre or so. A blocked fuel cap breather can flow well initially then quietly pressurises the tank. When you stop this can then equalise back to normal and at lower revs the issue doesnt arise.



Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: Brian on 14.06. 2010 06:42
Afternoon Andy,

Firstly there is nothing wrong with magneto's or monobloc carbies.

Now to your problem, it is sounding like a sticky valve. You have tried two different ignitions, maggy and electronic and it made no difference. You have tried two different carbies and that made no difference.

I gather this bike has had this problem since it was asembled. If it was starving for fuel then you would expect it to just die, not backfire etc. The fact that it starts to miss and then backfires and stops makes me think it could well be a a valve, the only small doubt here is that I would expect it to let a pushrod jump out but yours does not seem to do that.

The next step is to take the head off, at least this doesnt cost much. If its a solid headgasket then re-anneal it and use it again so a couple of rocker box gaskets is all that is needed. So take the head off and drop the valves out and see how much clearance they have. As to the right clearance its hard with valves to quote any figure but lift the valves off their seats and they should move side to side about .020". If they are a nice slide fit with no sideways movement then they are too tight.

Once this is sorted you will have a very nice bike, it looks good.   PS. Do not fit oil feed bolts with larger holes, stick with the correct ones that only have the small hole in them. The ones with big holes are drain bolts from the B series BSA's.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 14.06. 2010 11:53
thanks all for your help...heres just confirm...it has run two different carbs...two different fuel caps...two ignition systems...two sets of fuel lines...filter is clean on to monobloc..the bike runs great for first few miles..revs out in all gears...lovely and smooth..loads of power...then when it gets hot after you give a good load of throttle it misfires and sometimes backfires...and just cuts out, just like somebody had flicked a switch..as quick as that....i think brian might and a few more of the helpful forum with the valve problem..one thing i did not mention is that the bike was pinking when the previous owner bought it,we solved this by setting the timing correct.

i am just wondering...would a run through of slick 50 coat the valve stem and guides as this product sells it self on reducing heat.....see below.just to save removing the head

Slick 50® Advanced Formula Engine Treatment

Slick 50® Advanced Formula Engine Treatment combines Slick 50® Protection Chemistry with a fully formulated 10W-30 motor oil to provide protection against friction and heat. Slick 50® Advanced Formula Engine Treatment is compatible with all types of motor oil, safe for all automotive gasoline engines and will not void manufacturers' warranties.

Overall, Slick 50® Advanced Formula Engine Treatment:

Contains unique and proprietary Slick 50® Protection Chemistry
Protects against friction and heat
Will not cause corrosion of engine components
Comes with a 50,000 Mile Engine Limited Warranty
Available Size: 32 fl. oz. bottle

cheers andy

Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: andy2565 on 14.06. 2010 12:09
i didnt mean to offend the monoblock users sorry !
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: MG on 14.06. 2010 12:10
Andy,

Your description sounds very much like a sticking valve indeed.
If it turns out to be so, you should definitely take the head off and cure the cause, instead of treating the symptoms with some "miracle stuff".
A sticking valve could have caused damage to the pushrods or rockers, even the surface of the camshaft and/or follower COULD have suffered. I personally would even pull the barrels off and check the cams and followers.
A quite common cause for sticking valves can be a leaky valve seat, allowing the hot exhaust gas to heat the valve stem, which will finally lead to a burnt valve any way.
If the oil supply to the rockerbox has been cut off, the rocker arms and shafts should be inspected either.
In case the valve guides have been made too tight, giving them a little hone will cure the problem for ever, and nothing else will.

However, I'd rather invest one or two days of work and some gaskets now to sort it out and finally get it right than taking the risk of serious subsequent damage.

Just my 2p worth.

Cheers, Markus
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: mike667 on 14.06. 2010 12:15
i think the guy that invented that stuff is pretty "slick" how he can get $50 for his product that is of very questionable utility.

I like the idea of looking at the compression when the bike conks out -  if it is indeed a sticky valve  one would expect the compression to be off in the offending cylinder - have you check'd it out-

 markus idea of the heading coming off might tell you a lot for only a few hrs of work too

no doubt it its going to be a small matterv - once remedied you have a great bike
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: RichardL on 14.06. 2010 13:00
As to the right clearance its hard with valves to quote any figure but lift the valves off their seats and they should move side to side about .020". If they are a nice slide fit with no sideways movement then they are too tight.

First, let me say that I am trying to learn as much about this as Andy, or anybody else, is. It's an interesting and important topic.  

My question is, should the clearance test suggested by Brian be applied to either steel or bronze guides. I'm sure the bronze guides have a greated coefficient of expansion. Would that not make them looser as heat builds?

EDIT: Ah! but the valve stem probably gets a lot hotter than the guide. Correct?

Richard L.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: muskrat on 14.06. 2010 13:21
G'day all.
               the problem sounds just like one I had when first got the cafe on the road. It too was pinging and getting very hot and would play up and cut out after 5-10 miles. Let it cool for a while and go again.
Turned out it got that hot that the valve clearances closed up enough to prop open the ex valves. Increased clearances to racing spec, solved. Richen mixture (a lot) and hotter plugs, pinging solved.
Andy try opening up the valve clearances a few thou and try that. If that helps then try to cool things down by richening up the carb and advancing the timing back to about 34 degrees.
Cheers
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: MG on 14.06. 2010 14:15
Quote
Turned out it got that hot that the valve clearances closed up enough to prop open the ex valves. Increased clearances to racing spec.

That would explain why the push rod didn't jump out.
For a Flash in standard tune (I assume it is?) with the valve clearance set correctly this would mean that the carb setup must be on the extremely lean side (or ignition still is too far advanced).

Andy, can you tell us what your carb setup (main jet, needle jet, needle position) and ignition timing is?


Quote
My question is, should the clearance test suggested by Brian be applied to either steel or bronze guides. I'm sure the bronze guides have a greated coefficient of expansion. Would that not make them looser as heat builds?

First of all, valve guides are made from cast iron by centrifugal casting. Steel doesn't have the necessary emergency running properties (the carbon in the cast iron acts as a solid lubricant, especially important when used with valve stem seals)
You are right, the bronze guide will expand more than a cast iron one, so if fitted to an alloy head it might become looser, depending on head temp. But not if it is fitted to an iron head. The surrounding material of the head will constrict radial expansion, so due to the difference in thermal expansion the inner diameter might even decrease relatively with higher temperatures, leading to sticking valves.
That's why in iron heads only iron guides are used usually.
In today's modern engines even special cast iron alloys with the same (or very similar) thermal expansion coefficient as aluminium cast alloys are used, so that they can be fitted in alloy heads as well.
General consensus (although some engine experts disagree here) says that cast iron is the superior material for making valve guides due to the excellent fretting and wear properties, which is what I tend to belive, too.
I am also using custom made cast iron guides in the A7 SS alloy head without any problems. You just got to make sure they are a good shrink fit in the head.

Quote
EDIT: Ah! but the valve stem probably gets a lot hotter than the guide. Correct?

Yep. Part of the problem is the temperature gradient between valve stem, guide and head.

Cheers, Markus



Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: lawnmowerman on 14.06. 2010 14:23
Hi Andy
I had a similar problem on my SR which was rebuilt by the PO. It would run for a few miles and cut, miss and sometimes backfire. I tried new plugs and leads, cleaned fuel filters but the problem persisted. In desperation I tried turning both fuel taps on and it never missed a beat. I checked the taps and the rubbers have spread after use and were severly restricting fuel flow. I will fit some better taps soon - possibly central heating oil full flow ball types.

Just a thought but a run with both taps on if you have not already tried it is an easy check before you pull it apart.

Jim
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: RichardL on 14.06. 2010 14:41
Markus,

I suppose I could have hidden my ignorance by saying "iron-based". That would have covered it. Now, you force me to go to the web to try to see the machinery used in centrifugal casting. Danged information superhighway! If it turns out to be a way to find actors to fill roles as astronauts I'm going to be very disappointed.

Richard L.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: A10Boy on 14.06. 2010 16:01
I cant see thats its poor oiling to the valves. but what do i know. One thing you can do is remove the oil tank cap and put your finger over the oil return jet for a few seconds, that should oil the valves up.

What exactly did the electronic ignition replace, was it a full system, you now have no mag or what?

When it stops does it seem over heated?

Are you using an air filter, if so remove it and try it without.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 14.06. 2010 16:17
wow thanks everybody for the help...muskrat your advice about opening the valve clearances a few thou more has got to be worth a go before i take the cylinder head off ..just to let the rest of the forum know that i am running ngk b6hs plugs and the carb is set up as standard via the book for a 58 a10..i have the valve clearances inlet 0.010 exhaust 0.013 hope this helps oh and pushrods have only done 2k from new..cheers andy
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 14.06. 2010 16:20
oh no...haynes manual says 0.016 for 58 flash is this correct
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 14.06. 2010 17:00
http://www.sussexmotorcycles.com/thorspark.html (http://www.sussexmotorcycles.com/thorspark.html)
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: A10Boy on 14.06. 2010 19:16
Dont worry, my iron A10 is 10 and 12, and no probs.

Bigger clearances were given for hard use but 10 / 12 is OK for normal use. That certainly wont stop the engine.  *conf*
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: MG on 14.06. 2010 19:41
Yep, I'm running mine on 10 thou exhaust and 8 thou inlet and it runs happily even when thrashed, although the engine is running on 9:1 CR.

The plot thickens, I'm afraid the sticking valve is the most likely culprit.


Quote
If it turns out to be a way to find actors to fill roles as astronauts I'm going to be very disappointed.

*lol*
The last one to barf gets to play Neil Armstrong.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: trevinoz on 14.06. 2010 23:12
.016" is for 334 camshaft.
    Trev.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: muskrat on 15.06. 2010 10:21
Dont worry, my iron A10 is 10 and 12, and no probs.

Bigger clearances were given for hard use but 10 / 12 is OK for normal use. That certainly wont stop the engine.  *conf*
It will if it gets hot enough.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: A10Boy on 15.06. 2010 11:43
10 / 12 is fine, I've had mine well hot on a long run. I wouldn't risk any damage. Some people use 8 / 10 without problems.

Thanks to Trev for the info table
Quote
The valve clearances are determined by the camshaft used.
67-334   .010/.016
67-356   .008/.008  Later changed to .008/.010
67-357   .008/.010,  Max power - .010/.012
Trev.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: olev on 15.06. 2010 13:13
I bought a reconditioned iron head with oversize toyota valves some time back.
The gent who sold it to me got in contact later saying he was having trouble on 2 other bikes due to the bronze or brass valve guides he was putting in. Apparently they stuck when the engine got hot.
He changed the guides and had no further trouble.
So I'm not sure whether a dud batch came out of England a couple of years ago.
This guy owns an engine reconditioning shop and has A10s so I assume he knows what he's about.
I'll be keeping a close eye on mine if I ever get the damned thing finished.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 15.06. 2010 21:09
hi folks i was talking the problem over with a friend and he put forward the idea that if it was a sticking exhaust valve the bike would continue to run on one cylinder..is this correct...sounds feasable to me!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: muskrat on 15.06. 2010 21:58
That is true, I recently bent both timing side valves and rode home (2 miles) on one lung. Seems unlikley, but not imposable, for both ex valves to stick. Have you tried larger clearances yet.
Cheers
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: brackenfel on 16.06. 2010 13:46
Not discounting the idea of a sticky valve I'll go with what Jim (lawnmowerman) suggested..

My Velo Viper has 2 fuel taps & both appear to work well when the tank is full. However when the level drops a little I get odd starvation problems if only one is open even when the fuel level is well above the "reserve" line, cured by opening both taps!.
It appears to be an odd vacuum type condition for some reason best known to the bike. I know which tap it is but no idea why...

Just a thought......
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 16.06. 2010 15:01
I have made some changes today..i have put a larger oil feed bolt to the exhaust rockers...and i have used a product called extralube zx1 http://www.team-zx1.com/What-is-ZX1 (http://www.team-zx1.com/What-is-ZX1) this can be used in the oil for a large redction of friction and in the petrol for help with the top end friction of valves ect of the motor...well what can i say..bloodyhell the bike goes like a rocket,the instruction state that the product needs around twenty mins running to coat all friction surfaces of the engine..so lid and leathers on.. me and the previous owner of the bike went off for some spirited running of the bezza...in fact some very spirited running shall we say..there was a slight misfire at first as the lube went round but the bike did not die so i just rolled the throttle on,this had to a proper test...the bike just started to run better and better at the end off an hours proper hard use the bike was running astounding 70mph up a steep hill and speed increasing...i really hope this the end of my woes with the bike..but the bsa didnt let get get away with it scott free the ameter decided to try and escape from the headlight..tee he...we have took some video footage of todays events and my friend is going to upload it to you tube for you all have an assesment of the bikes running,i will post a link here soon to the vid....cheers andy

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_219011_langId_-1_categoryId_165750#BVRRWidgetID (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_219011_langId_-1_categoryId_165750#BVRRWidgetID)
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 17.06. 2010 09:41
as promised in high def video...the flash is up and running as a flash should thanks to all who helped with this prob http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PTisWbIne4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PTisWbIne4)
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: Brian on 17.06. 2010 09:55
Thats really good that its running well, I have to admit I didnt think a addative would have helped but there you go. It does look like the problem was valves. Whatever it was at least now you can enjoy your bike. Good outcome.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: bsa-bill on 17.06. 2010 09:58
Well done, nice video, nice weather and mine is a 99 thanks
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: MG on 17.06. 2010 10:26
Congratulations, looks and sounds like she's running properly now.
I guess those additives aren't as useless as I thought...  *smile*

Give here some time to run in and then try without that stuff. I suppose it should be okay once whatever has caused the problem has made a good number of working strokes and has bedded in.

Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: muskrat on 17.06. 2010 10:39
Nothing wrong there. Sounds perfect.
I have used an additive called Nulon for 30 years in everything. I swear by it.
Cheers
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 17.06. 2010 10:52
Well done, nice video, nice weather and mine is a 99 thanks
bsa bill..would you like chocolate sauce and hundreds and thousands on that 99 !
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: mike667 on 17.06. 2010 11:18
great! - but they're all driving on the wrong side of the street - b-careful!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: mike667 on 17.06. 2010 11:28
Nothing wrong there. Sounds perfect.
I have used an additive called Nulon for 30 years in everything. I swear by it.
Cheers

 I've seen those Nulon girls muskrat - say no more!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: bsa-bill on 17.06. 2010 13:19
Quote
bsa bill..would you like chocolate sauce and hundreds and thousands on that 99 !

Oh thanks but being type 2 means moderation in all things, maybe just chocolate and ten and hundreds
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: lawnmowerman on 17.06. 2010 13:23
Well done Andy - sounds great. What a result - first time I have heard of an instant fix with addatives. Just goes to show that some of them "do what it says on the tin".
BTW I hope that was not Officer Dibble with a radar gun in that yellow and red stripy van on your video? *whistle*

Jim
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: mikethebrush on 17.06. 2010 15:17
sounds great and runs well

I want to ride mine..............................cant wait *smile*
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 17.06. 2010 16:15
Well done Andy - sounds great. What a result - first time I have heard of an instant fix with addatives. Just goes to show that some of them "do what it says on the tin".
BTW I hope that was not Officer Dibble with a radar gun in that yellow and red stripy van on your video? *whistle*

Jim
its ok it was a dibble free zone and its a national speed limit...great for testing the flash
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: bonny on 17.06. 2010 21:16
you'll have to stick up some more videos of the flash , it looks and sounds fantastic !
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 18.06. 2010 15:12
you'll have to stick up some more videos of the flash , it looks and sounds fantastic !
i sure will.....watch this space.
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: melvyn on 18.06. 2010 16:47
Glad the problem is sorted,nice bike & great video cheers!
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: a10sausage on 19.06. 2010 16:32
thanks melvyn...that machine of yours looks tasty as well !
Title: Re: bsa a10 650..the problem child !
Post by: Hubie on 29.06. 2010 01:12
After reading through your posts, I have ordered some of that extralube stuff and will see how it goes.  You sparked my interest!