The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: RoadRunner on 14.08. 2010 10:55
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*conf*
Hi, I'm still puzzeld and having problems with finishing the oil pipe connections (feed/return) from oil tank to the oil union pipes that locate behind the timing cover. Muskrat kindly provided some info and pics previously about this issue which has sort of helped but I'm now not sure whether I have the correct oil tank or fittings?
The oil union pipes from the crankcase that come up between the rear of the timing cover and gear box just don't align at all - to get a pipe on that at present is impossible even if I bent the pipes further over.
The oil return pipe fittings (with rocker banjo feed) from the oil tank comes down as such an accute angle to gearbox it just doesn't seem correct?
Answers to the following that may help me:
1) Are there different oil tanks for A7/A10 plunger's and/or are the oil feed/return fittings different?
2) Can the oil union pipes be removed with the engine in the frame and complete (ie without taking the engine out and removing the gearbox)?
Photo of the problem is attached although it doesn't show the accute angle too well.
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You can remove the oil pipes easily, just take the bolt out that holds the union to the engine and it will come out.
The tanks and pipes are all the same as far as I know.
Its night over here now but tomorrow I will take a photo of one of mine so you can compare it.
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G'day RR,
here's another pic. From memory I did bend the pipes from the motor a tad and use fuel hose to join them up.
Cheers
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I forgot to mention it's a early '51 (eng # AA7 154) so it has the rigid tool box, but the oil tank is right. Don't look too hard *eek* it's got a '57 SS top end.
Cheers
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Hi RoadRunner,
Theres not much room to fiddle those pipes into shape *ex* *ex*
I had a similar job recently on a plunger single, It took quite a while *ex* *ex*
I replaced the copper pipes from the crankcase as the old ones were gone hard and didnt bend into shape easily
Muskrat, what flavour jam do you have stashed away under the oiltank ???? ???? *smile* *smile*
Cheers
John O R
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Ha, it's Golden Syrup ! I didn't think the chain needed that much oil, it gets enough from the gearbox !!
Cheers
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Here's a couple of photos RR, I'm sure its just a matter of some carefull bending.
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*smile* *smile*
Hi & thanks to all who replied to date - espesically for Brian and the close up photos; I think my pipes will go if bent further towards the centre and the return pipe angle seems similar to mine. As you may have guessed I'm no engineer and didn't want to try and remove the oil union pipes from the completed engine in situ only to find they cannot be removed totally - then I'd be in a right quandary!
The pipes and fitting are chromed so does anyone know if this poses a problem with sealing (ie leaks)?
Again cheers for the info and help - I'll post a pic once I get a little closer to getting her road worthy - she should look fairly pretty.
Regards
RR
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Hi Brian,
Thanks for the photos but you may created another problem for me - on closer inspection of your photos (2nd pic) I noticed that you have a fibre washer either side of the rocker banjo where it connects to the bottom of the oil tank?
Having just connected the pipes after much cussing I took another look at your pics (oh hindsight is a wonderful gift if only...) - since the parts manual makes no mention of these little beauties!
Please tell they're not necessary... but I have a feeling they will be *ex*
Cheers
RoadRunner
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Rest easy RR, the fibre washers shouldnt be there. Mine was missing all the connections so I made up the current set up. The correct fittings have tapers on either side and dont need washers.
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RR... That angle looks really awkward... I'm wondering if you might have a 'B' seris oil tank fitted? (Although I'm not 100% sure if A & B models are the same or not.) Any chance we might see another photo zoomed out just a little? I also have just fitted my pipes (on B33) from oil tank to engine and was easy peasy with no horrid angles that you are facing.
Just a thought...
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Thanks Brian & LJ,
That is a relief - having enough problems with the 4 wheeled device (don't buy a Vauxhall!!) anyway I got the pipes on but took me ages, embarrassed to say how long really (I do tend to be gifted at times I know but...).
The large oil filter banjo fitting is an OEM part which should have the end down turned slightly which would help matters but the gap between the rocker banjo fitting and end of the twin pipes that bolt to the crankcases it not large and very difficult bend braided pipe across such a small gap. Didn't want to cut the twin pipes any shorter since it would be impossible to attach the retaining clips (which may be un-necessary - being a belts and braces kinda person).
Anyway the pipes are on - hopefully never to come off in a hurry, well not road side *conf*.
New pics below - and hopefully the feed and return are connected correctly, otherwise some inanimate object may suffer. *smile*
Not sure about oil tanks from other models - but I think mine is correct as I've an old friend with and A7 and his is the same - of course both colud be wrong knowing my luck at the moment (just been given 90 days notice!).
Thanks guys for your interest and suggestions/advice again - where would us novices be without it......
Cheers
RoadRunner
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Looks a very neat job! I don't think you'll have any problems with that. (http://www.ljswain.btinternet.co.uk/pictures/icons/wink2.gif)
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Well done RoadRunner, I love the look of braided lines.
Cheers
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Thanks for the encouraging comments guys, I only like doing most things once and ideally, properly hence me some posting of 'novice' type questions (probably some more come no doubt!)
Will get some more pics uploaded when nearer the road which is getting nearer but trying not to rush the remaining tasks.
My knowledge base is growing thanks to the forum members - up it up ;)
Cheers
RoadRunner
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RoadRunner,
For someone claiming limited knowledge, it sure looks from the photos like you know quite well what you're doing. I think the term I want to use for the photos is "deep". You look deep into them and everything you see looks great. I wouldn't say the same for my own.
Richard L.
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Thanks Richard,
I find it enjoyable & easy to get the look I want but its only taken 20yrs +; I think the fun may arise when I try to get it running judging by recent threads ;) which I remain slightly nervous of! I had the engine re-built due my lack of engineering prowess, tools, time and not wanting to getting it wrong (but yet to prove it works!). However, I'm getting more encouraged and knowledgeable through the forum (a big thanks) and amazed at members determination & patience resolving issues which I hope I don't encounter too soon.
Cheers
RoadRunner
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Hi, I am Belgian and I purchased my BSA A7 plunger model 1953 last year from England. Three months ago I decided to restore some parts of the engine.
I renewed all gaskets and washers without putting any jointing compound. I also replaced the 2 old pistons/rings with 2 new ones.
I completed this work one week ago. I started the engine which was very well running but I got 2 leaks : a small leak at the outer primary chain cover and a strong one at the oil pipe union (feed/return oil from oil tank) connection at the crankcase. The part number of the oil pipe union with 2 copper pipes is : 67-1461. The washer is new but I didn't put any compound... that's may be the reason ???
Regarding the leak at the primary chain outer cover I didn't put any joint washer but only some compound (HYLOMAR).
Please can any one help me ? Many thanks for that.
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G'day Michmjf, *welcome*
Do you have the locating bush 67-1463 ? A little Hylomar on the gasket may help. Are you sure the pipes are not leaking from the union ?
Cheers.
Now get over to Intros and give us your story. https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?board=13.0
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Also worth checking that the bush is not holding the pipe union away from the crankcase. If a new part, the locating hole may be too tight for the bush, (common on newly plated parts). If an old part it may have previous jointing compound blocking full entry of the bush. The bush may also be too long or not fully seated into the crankcase. The retaining bolt needs a washer and must not bottom in the blind hole, so also check this blind hole for old jointing compound. If the bolt tightens down fully with no gasket in place you can be sure the union will seal against the crankcase with a gasket and a smear of Hylomar.
My parts book for 1949/1953 (Printed November 1953) shows the bush in the exploded view, but it is not listed on Page 15. Later parts book (1954/57) amends this omission.
Chaincase joint width is very narrow, and for a good oil tight seal you need a gasket. Check all the bolt holes for old jointing compacted at the bottom, holding the bolts off the cover. Bad examples require Silicone on the gasket to effect a seal, and as usual check for damaged faces and hairline cracks in the castings. Another source of leaks is the chain slipper adjuster thread. This can be sealed with Loctite but makes the easy primary chain adjustment a little more difficult.
It will be good to hear your story.
Swarfy.
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Hi Michmjf,
I had a leak from the primary chain cover caused by my omission of the fibre washers on the drain and level screws. Putting the correct washers and a dab of Hylomar on the thread cured it.
Adrian.