The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: RichardL on 06.12. 2007 16:42
-
Hello Folks,
While rebuiling my bike (as seen at "Bikes & Pictures" as Richard's 55 A10), I made a lot of tools (rather than spend big money). Here are a couple of pictures of one of them. Just for laughs, can you guess (or do you know) what it's for?
-
It's a Universal Adjustable Dinosaur Egg Cup for a man who likes his breakfast big .. . when you've made the grill for the toasted soldiers to go with, I'd like a set too. Groily
-
I could be rude but I guess Erling would throw me off the forum! Ermmm, fraid I dont have the foggiest Idea. ???
How long are we going to have to wait for the answer as this is going to play on me all evening/week!
-
Looks to me like a bearing puller maybe drive side main??.If not definatley a egg holder.. Dave....
-
My guess - a bearing puller
All the best _ Bill
-
Surely it can't be a bearing puller, It doesn't look strong enough. It looks like it grips something and I can only think of an ampmeter, but I dont know why an ampmeter would need to be in this?? I am intrudged by the counter sunk screws... Maybe its a holder for polishing something??
Grrrrrrrrr *problem*
-
This is great *smile* , you got me trying to remember anything I found difficult while working on the bike, trying to guess when I would have needed your invention... no solution to the riddle yet.
-
Drum roll please....Dave is correct, drive-side main bearing puller. However, I will now, also, be using it as a dinosaur egg cup. Groily, thanks for the idea.
It's made from a door hinge, two bits of aluminum, a thick scrap of lexan, some all-thread, and miscellaneous screws and nuts. (No comments about which nut has the screw loose, please!)
Richard
P.S. Apologies if this is more photos than it's worth.
-
AAHAA!! Thought it was I have made a similiar item for my A10. I used it for setting end float for crankshaft to remove bearing inner race ,But now have a RHP inner race which has been ground slightly on the inside face so it is a push fit on crankshaft, once I establish the shims needed I just fit the inner bearing I,m going to use. I also have another home brew tool I have made for my A10 to make life easier. If I can sort out a photo I,ll post on this site. Maybe other owners have similar items in their toolkit & would like to share them with us ?. ....G/F DAVE
-
Thought that was what it would be having gone through the bearing removal process myself, might look a bit on the light side as has been said but the problem with that bearing is access without chewing up the roller cage.
Wish I'd made one , I bought a proper bearing separator but it still damaged the bearing, a better buy was a dial gauge ( and with a bit of luck I'm sure ) I was able to work out the shims I needed first time.
All the best - Bill
-
The good stuff about Richard's clever device is the contact area, the pressure gets distributed evenly to the whole bearing, and no damage to edges\rollers.
Yes, more homemade tools posts welcomed !
-
Thanks for noticing. I meant to mention the benifits of encircling the entire bearing and pulling by the cage. Also, if anyone wants to replicate this, be sure to notice the bevel on the edge of the circle. this allows grabbing the bearing without smashing the shims.
According the Bill, the official bearing puller damaged his bearing, I did not have that problem, however, it is important to try to adjust the four pulling nuts as evenly as possible because the bearing tends to walk off the shaft. I think this is not a problem, as long as the steps are small, therefore, not distorting the roundness of the inner race. This might be a point for comment by someone with more experience than myself.
-
Well it's rained all day today, so I got on with making a usefull tool! *smile* Something I have needed to make for a long time to cure the frustration of alighing front and back wheels. It was an easy job, the pictures tell the story but the biggest secret here is using some of those incredibly powerfull NEODYMIUM magnets, you'll find these quite cheaply on ebay. I must say that the tool worked instantly and showed me just how much the Red A10s back wheel was out of line, the blue one was fine!
-
Okay... I could not insult your inteligence with the wheel aligner tool as it was a bit obvious... But what is this? I made this very simple tool sometime ago and has prooved useful on occasions.
P.S. The dynamo end cap is only to show the size of the tool!
-
looks like a tool for screwing up or out a hub bearing retainer.
Speaking of which did you know front and rear are different.
All the best - Bill
-
looks like a tool for screwing up or out a hub bearing retainer
Speaking of which did you know front and rear are differentj
Correct! Now you got me wondering if I last used it for front or rear! Thanks! That means I gotta make another one now.... *lol*
-
I don't know that the tool would not fit front and rear, maybe the holes are the same distance apart, I do know that the front and rear retainers are different as I bought a new one from C&D Autos and with their usual efficiency they pointed out the retainers had different part numbers.
This might account for the fact I could not get one of them to tighten, looked like it was wrong threaded ( which was the reason for the purchase of a new one)
Don't know what happened to my smilies in my last mail *sad2*
-
Some plunger hub stuff here http://www.a7a10.net/BSA/rearwheel.htm & http://www.a7a10.net/BSA/techpics/wbfront.jpg , I seem to remember I battled with the rear until discovering the LH threads... *red*
-
I wonder if BSA made such a tool for pushing on the front wheel hub? I found it to be a bit of a pig to do today so an ingenuity had to be thought of... A good look around the workshop shed and I come across a filter that had been used in my sandblast cabinette. Resting the wheel on a kitchen washing up bowl and a good blow onto a mallet ensures the perfect job done! *clap*
-
Yep! Indeed perfect, the rubber rubber seal saved the paint from getting damaged. The mallet although not home made was used as a flat block to save the filter from getting damaged when one hefty blow from the engineers hammer struck. The mallet is an old time tool for wooden ended chisels. Probably now-a-days a rubber hammer is used in stead.
-
(http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4144/raceremoverlp4.gif)
for removing the rear wheel bearing, I think this was to hold the bearing to remove it from the spindle/spacer
and the end of the bar is ground to use to pound on just the outer race thru the hub
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4897/outerracevq1.gif)
just about everything in my toolkit is homemade so far...
-
Well, I never found my lost pushrod comb (mentioned under "Spending Money" in chat). Again, being too impatient and too cheap (especially when I know there is one lying around here), I made my own by copying a photo from eBay, pasting it to AutoCad (drafting program), scaling it using the known dimension between rockerbox studs, printing it, gluing it to a piece of sheet metal and cutting it out on my band saw. After a small amount of filing, it worked and here it is.
Richard
-
I've got long,skinny fingers. After spending about 10 minutes faffing about with the comb I discovered I didnt need it.
I have a fork puller upper made from an old top nut and some threaded rod and nuts.
I've also got a fork seal holder remover like Beezalex's. A friend knocked it up whilst watching me fail to remove one with my usual trick of using a big jubilee clip around a bit of old inner tube and a pair of stilsens.
Cheers,
Tombeau
-
I removed the blind camshaft bush in the drive side crankcase tonight.
The head of a 1/4" X 2 1/2" mushroom head (or cup head) bolt just fits in the bore and can be hooked under the back of the bush. lay a piece of metal with a hole over the thread, add a nut and wind her out.
It was all over before the first beer was opened.
hmmm.. that doesn't seem to make much sense. should have stopped after the first beer.
-
To revive this topic, my latest invention (version 0.9). Anybody spots what it does ?
(spanner not used or related, size ref only)
-
I'd say its for plug hole to mark top dead center and timing before TDC
-
Yes, timing.
90 deg to piston. The bottom clip (11\32 width) on to mark TDC, 2nd clip goes on, removing 1st clip, rotating crank, bar slides freely following piston, carefully watching for 2nd clip to bottom out.
Presto 11\32 advance.
Just another twist to the piece of wire 'tool'. Took some time though to find some parts that could be used.
-
Erling,
Perhaps you recall my own home-made version shown at http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=156.msg5969#msg5969
Your's seems a bit less tedious in the usage but a bit more complicated in the fabrication.
Richard L.
-
Just looking through some old posts and read the technique of removing the blind camshaft bush using a modified bolt arrangement.
The trick way to remove blind bushes is to obtain a dowel / shaft close to the internal diameter (smaller)of the bush, fill the bush with heavy duty grease then insert the dowel into the bush and strike the end with a hammer.
The dowel acts hydraulicly on the grease which forces the bush out of its blind cavity.
-
Borrowing a page from LJ's book, I bodged together (his wasn't bodged) this pump for sucking oil out of the tank. The piston is an old scrap from someone trying to turn a bed knob, or something, on the wood lathe in the shop attached to my office. I turned an electric hand drill into a lathe of my own to cut the groove for the o-ring. I think, all together, parts around $10, plus some junk in the garage. It worked well, except when I stuffed a stiff wire up the tube (as shown). I'm going to try lashing the stiff wire to the outside of the tube.
Hope this isn't too boring.
Richard L.
Edit: Oh, no! Sloppy work area showing. I am devastated.
-
This is cool, so I took the liberty of copying some of MikeN's text plus the picture of the lever tool here at Home-Made Tools. I trust this is not a policy breach.
From: MikeN
"Ive been running a Tony hayward belt drive kit on my "A" for the last 5 years....I use the nice SRM crankshaft nut that they sell ( I might have had to modify it a bit on a lathe, I cant remember now). I also made up a long lever type tool that I bandsawed from a bit of 1/4" alloy plate about 450mm long. I unscrewed the belt retaining flange from the crankshaft pulley and screwed my lever on in its place. By pulling on this lever and the ring spanner that fits the SRM nut and making a sort of grrrnnnfff noise I was able to do it up extremely tight with no risk of anything slipping or getting damaged.bI used Loctite thread locker for the nut."
"Here is a pic of the tool I made for tightening up the crankshaft nut. I remove the screwed-on flange from the pulley and bolt on the lever/tool. The small puller is for removing my dynamo pulley. The larger puller is for extracting the crankshaft pulley."
-
Heres another tool I made to remove the fork seal holders. When I made my first one, the tommy bar handle was too feeble and bent when I tried to undo the extremely tight chrome holders.So i made this stronger one which did the job.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/356/001jah.jpg
The secoond pic shows a box of tools that ive fabricated over the years.Some for bikes so long gone i cant remember what they do now. I usually give them away with a bike when I sell it.
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1096/002t.jpg
Mike
-
Wow! That's a great collection, can we just reach in and borrow what we need?
I think I am correct in noticing the steam engine in one photo. I can't name the type, but I bet Lee (coater87) could. He is a model ship enthusiast in deep (though I'm prettry sure that one is not from a boat or ship).
Richard L.
-
Yes, Richard thats the boiler and cylinder block for a 6" to the foot scale steam tractor that im building . Its now about 90% complete now and I will start painting it shortly. When its done i hope to register it for road use.
heres another tool:
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/1240/013dq.jpg
Its a slide hammer I made for front forks. You can use it for assemling and diassembly depending which way you work the slide. Different attatchments for different forks screw on the end.
MN
-
It's nice to carry a select pouch of tools in the toolbox, but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket. I came up with this, no biggie, but it has been handy and out of the way (stashed at the headstock). I just wish I had wiped the bike down before taking these embarassing closeups.
Richard L.
P.S. That's not the right belt color for on the tank sticker for a '55, is it?
-
Nice to see this thread resuscitated.
Does anyone have the dimensions for the fork oil seal holder tool? Looks as though they start off with a bit of scaffold tube.
-
The fork seal tool that I made is 1 7/16" ID, 1 5/8" OD and the two spigots are 1/2" wide and protrude out 5/32".
-
I don't know if this is more technique than tool, but it worked a treat (as some would say). Basically, about $2.00 of 3/32" aircraft cable and clamps from the hardware store. Notice that the cable is wrapped around two chain links, just in case it mattered for distributing the force. Also, notice the wood wedges in the cush spring that keep the cush drive from riding over the lobes while tightening the nut.
I hope others might find this handy.
Richard L.
-
hi guys/Richard L, the catch on my toolbox has a neat extra bit that does not need a special tool to undue it, don`t know if it is the original catch but maybe it should have been,cheers
-
Now that is a very good little modification, something I am definitely going to do to mine.
I always carry a "stubby" screwdriver in my pocket.
-
I believe the catch on Kiwipom's tool box is a modern piece from Dzus.
-
hi guys/ Richard it looks like you are right, well done. Might be a worthwhile upgrade,cheers
-
I have a feeling some Notruns used something like that..?
-
These catches are used on Harley Davidson FLH models to hold the saddle bags on the bike
-
These catches are used on Harley Davidson FLH models to hold the saddle bags on the bike
I have just ordered a couple, will see how good they fit when they arrive.
-
A friend in his eighties rang recently and offered me a collection of whitworth bolts and nuts he had accumulated over a lifetime of riding and maintaining (british) motorcycles.
He was the frailest I have seen him, and had dispersed all of his bikes except two; one of which was the plunger Gold Star which he proudly started.
He also gave me this little funnel he probably made in 1950; very ingenious - made filling the BSA gearbox a breeze!
I hope to be using it for the next 25 years or so, but will make sure I pass it on to the next generation when the time comes.
Here's to you, Mr Crocker!
-
What a really useful funnel ,he must have been ***** off spilling oil as we all do with other methods .Reminds me of a good friend and neighbour who always nattered to me about my A10 as he'd had one back in his day , he gave me a tuneup meter for checking fuel mixture ,after a " bit of a tidy up" then next week a few whitworth spanners and finally two brand new old stock valve sealers made in stainless ,he'd had 'em for yrs . Turned out He'd been diagnosed with cancer caused by asbestos and just wanted something of his to remain in use after he was gone ,so his wife told me after He'd died .I still use the tune up and won't go anywhere without the valve caps fitted , (thank you Jack) , so keep an eye on your mate Richard ,you never know , cheers Bob.
-
20 years ago I gave him a couple of frames from 1920's Indian Scout; I didn't ask for any payment.
This is the Karma coming through!
-
What a really useful funnel ,he must have been ***** off spilling oil as we all do with other methods.
I use a plastic bottle of gearbox oil that has a handy tube.
finally two brand new old stock valve sealers
Do mean tyre/tire valves?
-
but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket.
Here's mine - it cost 2 pence - so I splashed out and got 3, 1 in the shed, 1 in the garage, 1 in my pocket ;)
-
but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket.
Here's mine - it cost 2 pence - so I splashed out and got 3, 1 in the shed, 1 in the garage, 1 in my pocket ;)
and if it slips, there goes your paint.
-
but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket.
Here's mine - it cost 2 pence - so I splashed out and got 3, 1 in the shed, 1 in the garage, 1 in my pocket ;)
and if it slips, there goes your paint.
I dare it to slip, it'll get a good Kicking!
-
Not exactly homemade, well not by me anyway. I got this yesterday for pulling the crankshaft pinion off.
and it works brilliantly here is the link.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bsa-twins-A7-10-crank-pinion-puller/263428014723?hash=item3d55888283:g:T1cAAOSw0exaAC-T
oh yeah it only works on 67/339 that's the one with the machined flats on it.
-
My new timing stick. Graticule created and printed using AutoCad (1/32" incements) glued to 3/16" D. aluminum tube and covered with clear packing tape. A screw inserted on the right (top) end makes it heavy enough. Ball bearing on the left (bottom) end makes it ride properly on top of the piston. BTW, used many times (before the old graticule wore off) without losing the ball.
Richard L.
-
G'day Richard.
Wouldn't a pushrod do?
This is my timing tool. (think I've mentioned it before) Smash the porcelain out of an old plug and tap the body 3/8 cyc. Get the piston to the desired height using verniers down the plug hole. Insert plug into head then screw a 3/8 cyc stud in (with red loctite) till it just touches the piston. Lower piston and remove plug. Once loctite has set you have a tool to set timing the same every time.
Also used to find TDC in conjunction with a degree wheel on the crank. Turn crank so piston is down the bore. Insert plug and turn crank till piston just touches the plug. Mark degree wheel then turn the crank back till it touches again and mark. Exactly half way between the marks is TDC.
Cheers
-
Well, I showed it without the guide/indicator (now pictured with the magnet that holds it to a head bolt). I'm a little uncomfortable with bumping the piston up against a stop. Not sure I could do it gently enough when turning over the engine with the rear wheel. I think of the stick as a vernier that moves with the piston and is accurate to about 1/64". I don't have a timing disk, but even if I did, I'd rather not open the primary just to set timing. It's bad enough that the timing cover has to come off. (Insert Orabanda's picture of magneto flange slots here.) I suppose you don't like to remove the timing cover either, which, I also suppose, is why you made the device. I have kinda settled on 11/32" as the target, but like the idea of trying other values if I want. That would be a bit tricky with red Loctite (unless you made a set, of course).
This should, appropriately, be followed by "I'm probably wrong."
Richard L.
-
G'day Richard.
I'm a little uncomfortable with bumping the piston up against a stop. Not sure I could do it gently enough when turning over the engine with the rear wheel.
I know what you mean mate. 99% of the time I have one or both covers off.
Cheers
-
Plugs out, bike in fourth, turn back wheel, engine turns slowly.
-
It's still a bump, but suppose one would soon get the feel. Still, not giving up my timing stick.
Richard L.
-
Good onya mate. We all have our favorite way of doing things. I learnt the hard way, the next model will have a nylon stud *rant*.
Cheers
-
Cush drive and mainshaft nut loosening/tightening tools:
-
Good ones. I believe I'm gonna make me one of them bars.
Richard L.
-
I made this for the Timing Side Pinion in 1969 for my 1957 A7. Worked quite well.
-
Tools what I have made:
1) Engine bench mount; bolts onto gearbox mounting holes. Single long bolt goes through bench allowing rotation.
2) Fork seal tool. Made from an old bit of tube and strengthened with a piece of exhaust pipe.
3) Plunger spring compressor. Method now superceded.
4) Fork stanchion puller-upper. Threaded rod with an old stanchion nut welded on and then ground down to fit through the yoke hole.
5) BTDC stop. When cylinder head is off this is bolted straight to block using head bolts with spacers. Engine is reversed then slowly brought forward to the stop screw which is set to stop the piston at correct BTDC.
6) Dynamo blanking piece, (quickly made) so I could ride the bike to the dynamo repair man, (chain removed of course) without getting too much muck in the chamber.
7) Cylinder head gasket locating studs, made from old head bolts. Just stops the gasket moving while I get the head back on.
8) Petrol pipe ferrule crimper, made out of a large nut cut in half. Use vice to squeeze together.
ITHANKYOU!
-
Speedo Needle Tool made in 1969. Just found it in a clean-up.
-
Well, this could have gone in the continuing story of trying to get my forks to slide freely in the legs from my A7, but that is such old news now. Winter here was really cold a lot of the time, so the garage was not that much fun.
Anyway, I came up with this idea for a fork-leg hone that would reach past the pin at the bottom of the leg. It's an old stantion with a notch cut for emery paper and driven with a drill motor using the nut from my homemade stantion installation tool.
Here is a link to a video of it getting used. https://youtu.be/zo-11td_uB4 . Been busy, so I haven't even tested the leg since running the hone. I'll let you know if it worked, helped, or is the destroyer of worlds.
Richard L.
-
Here's an important tool when adjusting points.
Richard L.
-
That's a very versatile tool Richard. I have 4 to hold the rockers up when putting the rockerbox on.
Cheers
-
I hope the next time I need to use Richards and muskys type tool/s it/they have bio degraded *shh*
-
G'day bergs.
I "make" a new one each time!
One of the safest "tools" in the box. If it drops in it will get chomped up in no time, not causing any damage.
Cheers
-
Maybe I should add, "Not intended for use with a thread-on end cover."
Richard L.
-
Used this rig to service many types of rear shocks
-
Oh, that's a good one.
-
Some very inventive gadgets there guys, I especially like the dynamo drive puller. I have used my pillar drill for compressing valve springs and rear shocks to good effect. But, has anybody devised a method for holding the points in position when tightening the mag pinion yet?.
-
mugwump, I have - it's a well trained six spring clutch pulling - brazil nut cracking- finger and thumb *lol*
-
Two things I wanted to do:
1. Surface grind my Ariel hub sprocket so it would be in balance. It was too thick for about 120 deg of arc. (Operation was successful. Balance now very close.)
2. Cleanup my Ariel hub with a turned finish look. (Photo shows partly done.)
Both of these needed a lathe, which I do not own. Wish I had named my daughter "Necessity" so I could hope for a grandson named "Invention."
Here are video Parts 1&2 for item #1, above.
https://youtu.be/ULWXOq2UegM
https://youtu.be/7v4jJ-DgU-I
Here is the video for item #2, above.
https://youtu.be/O9Ja9jETRuc
Photos show sprocket waiting for paint, the hub on its way to being done, and the hub turning motor.
Hope you find this amusing.
Richard L.
-
Brilliant!
Are you aware of the artist Heath Robinson?
In the UK, we might describe your setup as 'Heath Robinson'
-
Fair play Richard, good work. Though I'd definitely be wearing some heavy duty armoured gloves if Id got my fingers near it.
Jase
-
greybeard, exactly what my mate said when he looked at the screwdriver thing i made to try and adjust the yonda carb screws, "Heath Robinson" the lawn mower carb filter foam holds the brandy cork thing up into the slots on the screws, it sort of worked but you get burnt hands on the engine because space is very very limited ,so a special tool musky told me about has now been ordered. i'm glad i saved the cork though it gave us a laugh.
-
Something tells me those carb screws might be difficult to access.
Richard L
-
richard your methods are amazing, i think you should invest in a lathe they are very useful even if your not a real latherer like me. i was worried about it grabbing and taking your thumb. as for room under the yonda carbs there isn't much at all, hence a special tool that is long and has a bend at the bit end and you operate from the other end. musky has put me on the right path with getting one so i can hopefully get the yonda sorted.
-
Berger,
I suppose my lackadaisical reckless approach to hand protection reflects a bit of my dad in me. He was an electrician who often tested for hot power by flicking fingers across wires or terminals. My rigs for these tasks would fit his style. When I mention my dad I like to proudly throw in that he was a submariner in the '20s who served on Submarine S4. That sub is worth a Google.
Richard L.
-
....my dad...was a submariner in the '20s who served on Submarine S4. That sub is worth a Google.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_S-4_(SS-109)
-
Neil,
Thanks for posting the link. I was trying not to go overboard (uhh, accidentally, a nautical term) by pushing this topic to be too much about my dad, but I really appreciate your recognition of the story. Your link didn't work for me, so anyone interested might do better just Googling the sub number.
Richard L.
Edit: For the obvious record, he left the boat before the story ensued.
-
Top notch stuff Richard. Great efforts at improving your parts with minimum expense. Always enjoy your videos with entertaining commentaries. Keep it up. I do have a mini grinder but it probably best if i stick with my vice and big hammer!
*yeah* *beer* *bash* *good3*
-
....my dad...was a submariner in the '20s who served on Submarine S4. That sub is worth a Google.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_S-4_(SS-109)
http://pigboats.com/subs/jim-s4.html
-
That is a great story of the S-4 Richard.
And I chuckled at your Heath Robinson invention. Very much outside the square.
Col
-
That is a great story of the S-4 Richard.
And I chuckled at your Heath Robinson invention. Very much outside the square.
Col
Thanks, CB. My dad left the boat shortly before the incident. Having lost all his best friends affected him for the rest of his 92 years.
Back to topic, he actually had a lathe in his garage, but my mom cleared it out after he passed and while I was not around to glom it. A missed opportunity that still affects me.
Richard L.
-
Hi All,
Getting back to home made tools here are two I recently made
First of all I will not use wire circlip's with "ears" as they tend to be easily dislodged, plain wire clips should be used with gudgeon pins with a small chamfer at the ends, if the pin slides over to the clip the chamfer will push the clips harder into the groove, circlips with "ears" prevent this ,
On a recent build the wire clips supplied were really stiff and after retrieving them from the furthest corner a few times I made this gadget,
The circlip is pushed into the sleeve at 90 degrees then turned to compress fully (some will need a mm trimmed from one end to prevent butting up)
The tapered end of the sleeve is placed carefully up against the pin hole in the piston and the "pusher" gets a confident push, with a bit of luck the clip will pop straight into the pistons groove *wink2*
John
-
part 2
The next gadget is for testing the pressure relief valves
A piece of alloy from the odds box is drilled from one end and threaded to accept the PRV
The opposite end is drilled through and the valve from an old inner tube fitted through with a rubber washer and nut on the outside.. a hole is drilled to intercept the gap between the threaded sections of the prv to allow the leak off from the PRV
I connect the tyre inflater to the valve with the pressure regulator turned all the way down then increase the pressure with the regulator until the PRV opens (farting sound) reading the pressure on the airline gauge
*bright idea*
John
-
Both of those are cool. Did you resist radiusing the clip fitter because of the variety of bikes you work on?
Richard L.
-
I made this tool yesterday. My son, who is into off-road cycling asked me if I could copy this tool:
https://www.btr-fabrications.com/products/trail-tool/
I used an old forged garden spade. The steel was extremely tough to cut. I just hope my welding is up to the job. 🤞
-
With a few modifications he could tow this behind the bike, a sort of mini agricultural scarifier.
-
With a few modifications he could tow this behind the bike, a sort of mini agricultural scarifier.
I reckon that tool would be great in the garden; it provides an adze, a rake and a tamper, all in one.
-
I thiught it was a back scratcher.
-
Some Itch, some Back!
-
I made this tool yesterday. My son, who is into off-road cycling asked me if I could copy this tool:
https://www.btr-fabrications.com/products/trail-tool/
I used an old forged garden spade. The steel was extremely tough to cut. I just hope my welding is up to the job. 🤞
I recently saw this tool in the shed. It's done lots of hard work but it's still in one piece 👍
-
I asw an old tool in the shed then realised it was the bathroom mirror I have been going to make a frame for in 2010
-
Bloody hell GB that looks something used by our granddads in the WW1 trenches !
-
TD, here is the original post.
I made this tool yesterday. My son, who is into off-road cycling asked me if I could copy this tool:
https://www.btr-fabrications.com/products/trail-tool/
I used an old forged garden spade. The steel was extremely tough to cut. I just hope my welding is up to the job. 🤞
Turns out to be a really useful tool on our allotment 👌
-
I may have flashed my tool on here before😉
I made this tool to be a dolly inside the petrol tank so I could tapitty tap tap to get the shallow dent out that I found when I removed the Bondo from the tank of my A10. The main bar was a broken Britool knuckle/power/swivel bar. I was able to get the bar hot enough with my large plumbers torch, using Propane, to bend the bar. The rounded head on the end I sawed off an old ball pein hammer and welded it on with MIG. Is anyone interested in having this tool for their very own?
-
GB if you like you could shove it in with the spanners it may well be useful to get betsy beezers dent out of her HONDA tank , an apology to purists and rivet counters. .
-
GB if you like you could shove it in with the spanners it may well be useful to get betsy beezers dent out of her HONDA tank , an apology to purists and rivet counters. .
It shall be yours. I'll make it so 👌
-
G'day Fellas.
Yesterday I got new rubber fitted to the front of the HD. I needed to balance it.
I found my old wheel truing rig I rescued after the fire. A little out of shape but with 4 new wheels it worked well. Now I'll press it back into shape and give it a lick of paint.
Cheers
-
G'day Fellas.
Yesterday I got new rubber fitted to the front of the HD. I needed to balance it.
I found my old wheel truing rig I rescued after the fire. A little out of shape but with 4 new wheels it worked well. Now I'll press it back into shape and give it a lick of paint.
Cheers
Musky
With the GFs front wheel being well out of true I can feel a bit of gadget making coming on based on your example.
Cheers
Tim K
-
I've built lots of wheels over the years. This started out of necessity; as an ex moto-cross rider bent wheels were commonplace. I would advise using the wheel's own spindle, clamped down in a simple U-shaped bracket, so that the wheel spins on its own bearings. If you allow the spindle to turn, any imperfections in the spindle will transfer to the rim and make it look as though the rim is out of true. If you then true the rim and fit the wheel back in the bike the rim will be out of true again!
-
G'day Tim.
The rollers are the ones for sliding doors from Bunnings. Make it high enough to do a 23" wheel and I made mine so I can adjust the width.
I use the wheels spindle (after making sure it's true) but find the wheel bearings aren't as free as the rollers for balancing.
It's paid for itself 1000 times over. I charge $100 to lace and true a wheel (takes 4-6 hours).
Cheers
-
Hi Muskrat, I have built several wheels including the A10. Pleased to hear that you spend 5-6 hours. I spent about that and thought I was glad not to be a motorcycle mechanic on hourly rates - no body would pay me. *lol*
Col
-
Seeing the parallel thread about forks and fork swaps, thought I'd put up my damper tube holder, to allow the allen screw on the boittom of the sliders of my XJR's legs to be undone. (Spring tension alone hasn't been adequate on the two occasions I've wished it would be.)
Just a solid bar, with a modded Beesa fork top nut slightly milled off on the hexes so it sits snugly in the funny socket-like thing down inside. With a rod nicked from some or other car hub puller screwed on to get to the required length.
Probably would work for any number of japanese bikes with trad telescopics I suppose - subject to dimensions of the recess in the top of the damper rod.
Was quite pleased with it actually, as it makes fork stripping a complete doddle.
-
(https://i.postimg.cc/2j4JFJBq/IMG-8937.jpg)
-
First-rate job making those slip-joint pliers.
Richard L.
-
First-rate job making those slip-joint pliers.
Richard L.
They’re not that good!
Relegated to chain wrench duties.
-
I wish my home-made tools were elegant, like John’s, but this is what I have for today. Basically this is part of a tool. For laughs, any guesses? One reasonable answer might be that I made it to channel my father.
(Yeah, yeah, I know, it’s a micrometer. Very funny.)
Richard L.
-
It looks like a bracket. Is it part of a tool to put the centre/center stand spring on?
-
GB, thanks for trying. Not much interest in this diversion, it seems. Even if there was, I think there is no chance this one can be guessed, maybe because no one would think of wasting time this way. Nevertheless, the wasting of time is still to be proved, I’ve yet to put it to work due to the time used to make it last night. I hope the picture tells the story.
Richard L.
-
G'day Richard.
Well done mate, not very pretty but functional.
Cheers
-
Ah yes, that'll do Pig, that'll do 👍
-
Ah yes, that'll do Pig, that'll do 👍
Yes, I do know the reference, so, no offense taken. *smile*
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQWeaWor5cIku7VO3u22c-zjl0eFD0bOrRIF_XXTQ4Dtc9AQQxFztz_oXZTgmRLdETY6io&usqp=CAU
Ricahrd L.
-
Check the oil level Richard the bike looks dry *smile* *smile* it works, thats good enough !!
-
Ah yes, that'll do Pig, that'll do 👍
Yes, I do know the reference, so, no offense taken. *smile*
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQWeaWor5cIku7VO3u22c-zjl0eFD0bOrRIF_XXTQ4Dtc9AQQxFztz_oXZTgmRLdETY6io&usqp=CAU
Ricahrd L.
That film is set in Britain but it's so obviously an American made movie. It's as fake as Dick Van Dyke's Cockerny accent in Mary Poppins.
-
Well, the lead actor has a well-known British name in James “Cromwell.” He’s 1st cousin to a former coworker here in the states.