The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: craigb on 11.04. 2011 01:02
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I did a search and read a number of comments re tanks but thought I would start a fresh thread if that is ok that is a bit more specific for me.
I have seen worse tanks than the one on mine but given that the plating alone will be in excess of AU$500 and with a bit of dent knocking and paint and liner kit possibly needed, final price should take me well over $1000. And if you recall from my intro post I am on a solemn promise to not pull it apart into a pile of immobile bits! If a new tank arrives and sent off to be painted and just a couple of bolts and its on will be a lot more palatable than it sitting there tankless for 6 months or so while it is being dent knocked etc and I always have the old tank if a new one is not spot on but will do the trick for a while.
So this has taken me down the road of looking at replacement tanks, but with caution given the comments I have read about poor fit and quality. The exchange rate is great for us here right now but freight as ever is a significant factor. I do have a contact in the states that whereby i can get good freight prices, but I haven't been able to find any there yet- any US guys know of suppliers?
But my best quotes so far are:
Vintage Auto World in Delhi at AU$ 235 + 126 freight = 461
and
Rob Reaney in the UK for 280 quid all up = 435
So for a number of reasons I am leaning Robs way. Anyone dealt with him or know the quality of the tanks?
My only other thought is that there are a number of other big freight items I intend on getting and a combination thing might help there: rear shocks, rims and spokes, exhaust (whichever way I go there) and possibly seat but need to check out the police bike possibility and if the low wide one on there isnt related to that - looks a bit out of place to me but even just a cover might do - will do a separate post on that. There are other bits and pieces, like fork seal holders that are battered, new fuel taps I thought etc but imagine freight wont be a big factor in those.
Any thoughts or experience greatly appreciated.
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Hi Craig... I had a B33 tank off of Reany and was not really impressed with the tank, it was different and I know I'd have not been happy riding with it on. Quality was good, sale was quick and all that so I've left it on the shelf in shed, am stuck with it actually. Not so long afterwards an original B33 tank turns up on ebay and I won it for only £49. All the threads etc are in very good condition. I reckon knowing how it turned out for me, that you would be best to look around for a good replacement tank, they are about, the A10 is a common classic bike, it is only just playing the waiting game and I think you would get a lot more satisfaction in hunting one down and maybe spending a little on any minor repairs it has.
Just to edit my post and to be a bit fairer on Reaney... The problem with me is that I cast a critical eye over his tank when I got it, I pay a lot of money and I like things right! I placed the original one next to his repro one. If I had no tank to compare with then I dont think that I'd have known the difference.
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I have to disagree with LJ. These tanks are only thin sheet steel and now that they are 50 years old with corrosion and errosion they are even thinner. It,s a big gamble to spend a lot of money on painting and plating only to find later that it leaks. I have an Indian made tank ok it,s not completly identical but it,s been in use over 2 years now with no problems and I am happy with it.
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Thanks guys, appreciate the comments. Not being identical wouldn't kill me knowing I still have the other one that could be repaired. I am mainly concerned if it was a major fit problem that I can't exactly pop around the corner and take it back. If it is close and enables me to keep it mobile then it could be worth the effort. But given all the comments I might still see if I can strip the paint off and get a solid quote on a repair. If once the paint comes off it doesn't need a lot of knocking and it turns out only being say $750 then for a few hundred difference might be the way to go. So even if there are slightly different opinions, it all adds up to helping with my decision and that is appreciated.
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Its a very fair comment from Goldy and I respect that... *smile* I guess the thing here with finding old tanks in good condition is.. Luck! I must admit I've had a fair share of that. With a reproduction tank or anything for that matter, my problem is that I'm too much of a rivet counter and originalist, perhaps that's a bad thing? but I'm happy and I believe the next person to own my bikes will be happy too. *smile* The main thing is what works best for you.
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Hi Craigb,
Don't know where you are, I'm in Victoria, and have had my tank rebuilt and chromed for $685. Still have to have the panels painted so haven't finished spending yet but will end up with an original tank in as new condition. It was repaired by John Bennet in King Lake West, who is excellent, cost $350 and chromed by Classic chrome in Geelong at $385. John recomended Classic chrome.
Hope this info helps.
Russ
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Hello Craig,
not sure if you have seen this or not but there is a rechromed one on evil-bay at the moment in Adelaide. You could always contact him and see if he will sell it privately if you are interested, remember he will have to pay fees if he sells it on evil-bay. If you bought it you could sell your one and recoup some of the cost.
I can also recommend Classic Chrome in Geelong, they did the tank on my Star Twin and its a good job.
If your tank is sound and doesnt have too many dents I would seriously consider repairing it and getting it chromed. The Indian tanks are quite good and very useable if you dont have a tank but they are not up to the standard of an original tank. It all depends on just how original and what quality of finish you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PETROL-TANK-BSA-A10-B33-1960-UP-/120713705677?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1b18f8cd
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The Delhi dealer sells them for $295!
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There is a bod in Melbourne I believe he calls himself "Tanks by Trev "
A few of the BSAOA Vic riders have his tanks and reckon he dose a really good job.
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Thanks guys and sorry I missed the responses. You have to check these forums because if you just rely on the "show posts since past visits" you always seem to miss some.
From the earlier comments I had already started down the road of repairing mine. found a highly recommended dent knocker in the Barossa and need to get it off to have the chrome stripped first. Then it is just the challenge of finding a good plater. I have had more crap work done over the years than good and the best of them has retired now. Might be time to give some of the older ones I wrote off in the past another chance...... with all those comments I have made in the past like " i am a picky bastard and just want a good job and promise I wont grizzle about price - just want a good job" . I might try A Class metal finishers again after about 20 years of not being able to face them after taking the wheel locking nuts off my Amilcar to them and specifically saying that I don't mind about the few pits in them, just dont buff off the french writing on them for left and right and the arrow. "yeah, yeah the guys says laughing, we wouldn't do something like that" I say "Could you write it in your book with the job" - guy laughs at me -"No, sorry to be a pain but have had bad experiences, want to prove that I have told you this and do everything I can to get the message through to the metal polisher to not buff the writing out, it is an important visible part of the car, basically irreplacable, and the car is not concourse, just want the writing left in!" Guy gives in, writes it down with extra guidance from me the major PITA........ fast forward several weeks........ writing buffed off and some pits still in it......... speechless but ask quietly to speak to the owner........ his response "it wont be easy but we can do them again with lots of copper and get those pits out !!!!!! Hence why I haven't been back.
Might be worth a drive to Geelong (8 hours or so) if I could guarantee to get a good job.
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G'day Craig,
I hear what your saying, it's no different up here in nthn, NSW, I had finally found a good chromer in Bris. but
has since changed hands & gone to the dogs. I was about where you are, I had a good original 4g tank with a few
small dents. I lead wiped the dents & had the tank ready for chroming, but wasn't confident on getting a good job
after talking with a few chromers that started winging about plating over lead. I found a new tank on ebay at APC
motorcycles in Bris., was about $490.00, they stated it was English made (Jury still out on that one!), but I'm happy
with it, the gap between the two sides is wider ie. doesn't touch on the rubbers on the anti roll bracket, but that's about it.
Ended up selling my old tank. Did the electrolysis set-up from the forum to clean it out "worked a treat".
egards, Cus
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Had to look up "Amilcar". Very cool. I would have been out of my mind, basically telling them they were paying for the first set I could find, but I know such things often go nowhere.
Richard L
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Unfortunately Craig your experience with the platers is pretty much normal, its almost impossible to get one to do what you want. This is what pushed me to making almost everything myself out of stainless and what is pushing me to try home plating for my next project. (A 1929 BSA, lots of nickel)
I used to use Metal Finishers in Brompton and then went to A Class at Lonsdale but the same problem, nuts came back rounded off etc. I have used Classic chrome in Geelong a couple of time and have been happy with the results but that was only on straight forward stuff, I havent used them where stamped numbers or writing has been involved. I could only suggest you give them a few items first as a sort of "test case".
Glad you have been able to track down what your bike is. It was a copper on a BSA that got me started on bikes when I was young back in the early sixties.
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Craig, I have just had a tank done by Classic Chrome in Geelong and am more than happy with the result. It cost me $440 as it ended up with 3 coats of copper and nickel before he was happy with it. It was also panel beated by John Bennet who did a fantastic job on a beaten up tank. I can give contact details if needed.
Mark
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, the gap between the two sides is wider ie. doesn't touch on the rubbers on the anti roll bracket
Hi Cus
I have an Indian made tank, that has the same problem !!, it is actually a Goldie tank and I have always wondered if there is some difference, Goldie owners might like to say
Easy to get over with a bit of rubber surgery though, other than that the tanks not to bad at all, the chrome can be criticized with a critical eye but looks fine when the bikes moving as it should be.
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I was wondering about these indian made tanks and had a similar post on here well into last year , my main worry was the quality of the chrome plating , are the indian tanks triple plated ? Or is it chrome directly onto the steel ? I haven't been able to get a definite answer.
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Hi Craig, can't help much re tank my only experience was from a british dealer ,tank was fine but it had been curupted/comtaminated by some substance that took the paint guy 3 weeks to sort ,paint wouldn't set so when it did turn up I just gave aprayer up and fitted it ,been fine since so if I need another I'd have a go at an indian one simply on the grounds of they couldn't be any worse !!. Anyway real reason for post you mentioned taps well I've just got some from Paul Goff here in the UK really good quality ethanol resistant innards and only cost £19 for 2, He also does LED lights and indicators and finally rear shocks ,which again are excellent and very well priced @ £69.95 and thats inc uk postage Could be worth a look His company e-mail is www.norbsa02.freeuk.com also a nice guy.Not associated with him other than as a happy customer, Best wishes Bob Hebdon.
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I bought one from Bantam John, Dronfield. It was allegedly a rebuilt one and came painted and ready to fit.
On the first outing it split at the edge of the mounting bolt hole with petrol seeping out.
To give him his due, he replaced it with a new one, again painted and ready to fit. I thought I'd been told it was Chinese but probably it's of Indian origin. It looks great and has been on the bike now for maybe 5 years with no trouble but the gap for the rubbers was a bit bigger than the original and one of the threads for the taps is at a slight angle both faults which didn't bother me but would probably offend the purists.
Funnily enough I had the bike at a Triumph Owners Club concours last night and a couple of guys commented on how well the tank was looking. At the same time I had the oil tank and toolbox painted by John's man to match the tank.
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Might be worth a drive to Geelong (8 hours or so) if I could guarantee to get a good job.
Albury electroplaters.
They normally do no do motorcycle parts due to troubles with cheapskate motorcyclists and morons who take them tissue paper tanks then sue when the tank falls apart.
They are just about the only place RR owners take their parts to be replated and the only place in Oz that dose triple plate properly.
Other than that grab a copy of a local classic car or hot rod magazine and try the platers who advertise there knowing that the target market are very fussy.
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The Company that I use for plating tell me that they get new Indian tanks in for people who want the chrome stipping off and then they triple plate, so I would suggest they are not triple plated. My Indian tank is about 2 years old now and have not had any problems with the tank or the chrome.
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close inspection of my Indian tank will reveal patches of the chrome that appear slightly more coppery than the rest, would maybe suggest they are triple plated but not very evenly.
However even if you want the tank re chromed when you get it or at a later date you probably won't be that much out of pocket if at all.
I had my Flash tank (original equipment) re chromed and painted some eleven years ago and it cost a bit over £500 to do then, I'll live with the very slight imperfection of the Indian tank until it needs any attention
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I think you are very brave Bill to spend that amount of money on an original tank. I know people who have done that only to find at a later date pins holes developing in the tank. All the best Goldy
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It's a good solid tank Goldie, had a slight depression on the top which he took out also welded a crack (just in front of the seat, a result of it having no tank strap)
He also sealed the bottom of the tank (that might be a problem but nothing has happened yet - it's pink stuff?) also painted and lined.
Chrome is perfect to this day, no he did a damn good job, unfortunately went bust shortly after (was The Original Tank Doctor)
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i had a tank re plated and he made a real mess of it the chrome was peeling off and you could see the copper underneath it i got my tank from c and d auto and its very well made been on bike for 4 years now no probes with it and an old tank i wouldn't trust if its been re-chromed a few times the steel will be very thin and as for the tank lining it might be dissolved with this petrol additive we have to put up with now ethanol
dave
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Hi Dave - don't know if your "he" is referring to the same bloke I had "Original Tank Doctor", as he went bust and another guy using the name "Tank Doctor" appeared, don't think it was the same bloke, just an opportunist maybe , who knows given the way bankruptcy get a rounds go.
yes I'm keeping an eye on the tank lining, nothing seems to be happening so far, I use Castrol valvemaster plus (has octane booster in it) so maybe it neutralises the Ethanol effect. or it could be a lining that is resistant, as I said it's pink, would appreciate anyone knowing what it is
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I'm using Tapox to seal my tanks, it is a 2pack system and 100% ethanol proof.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TAPOX-PETROL-FUEL-TANK-SEALANT-ETHANOL-FUEL-MBIKES-CARS-/120736274373?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c1c7157c5 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TAPOX-PETROL-FUEL-TANK-SEALANT-ETHANOL-FUEL-MBIKES-CARS-/120736274373?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c1c7157c5)
It is much cheaper here and in Germany though (aorund 22-24Euros). But that is more of a reddish brown than pink?
Cheers, Markus
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Thanks Marcus, might be the same stuff, had no problems so far, time will tell.
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Thought I would report back on the tank saga - interesting to note that in late April I decided to go the resto of my old one road and here we are with me picking the tank up from the platers on 24/12. It's OK but from reading here my advice to anyone in australia is to take the transport risk and send it to Geelong as Mark recommended. A class metal finishers in Adelaide did a barely acceptable job at $420 and after 2 goes. There are pits and linnish marks if you look closely but not bad from a distance. And I missed the bit when I said to him when dropping off the tank that did he see any problems with the tank that had been dent knocked, and not that money isnt important but I just want a good job and if it costs more thats fine but he said it will be $350 and "it will be that" I seem to recall him saying. I said i was picky, and had seen work with linish marks in it and was prepared to pay more if it meant going down to extra fine grades etc and there was absolutely no rush. Time taken was much longer than estimated and included monthly calls just to check things OK but still told him i was patient and just wanted a good job. My December call he said that they had trouble and had to do it again but still hoped to get it to me by xmas - I thanked him for taking the time to see it is right. Picked it up and it was better than some of the rubbish i have got back from other local platers but I asked him about the pits and he said there was nothing they could do about it, it was an old tank etc. Now I don't know why that isn't what he told me when I dropped it off, said i was a picky bastard and did he see any problems. I did point out to him that I had the option of getting a new indian tank and potentially getting it re worked and plated. I asked couldn't they put more copper on and work it and he looked shocked and said, "no way, this is a tank and can only be chromed straight onto steel" I said - are you sure, i'm sure ive heard of people doing that - he said yes they are doing this on a very rare tank and they had to make up special plugs etc and was going to cost megadollars. Then I read the posts on here and realise the guy is full of s***! Sounds like it is not an issue for Geelong and they charged the same sort of money to do the job right.
But sometimes you have to just have to write it off to experience and get on with life. My conclusion is there is nobody in Adelaide that can do decent chrome - is it that bigger ask? I suppose in future if I sent the tanks to Geelong in bubble wrap and then took the 16 hour round trip drive to pick it up, catch up with a mate or two, maybe line it up with something at Phillip Island........ think positive!!
And now for paint - very tempted to do it myself so I only have myself to blame but I wonder if 2 pack is a good idea for durability and fuel resistance - any opinions? Otherwise it will be acrylic with a clear coat.
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Definitely two pack Craig, modern fuel will take acyrilic off easily. You need to mask the tank up and then use a fine emery paper to rough up the chrome, then use a good quality etch primer. Put your colour on and then remove the masking. Then you have to put the lining on, there are several ways to do that but I use tape. If you buy a good quality lining tape like 3M its almost indistingishable from a painted line. Once you have put the lining on mask the tank again just outside the lining and give it a coat of clear over the lot.
I did mine this way and have spilt fuel on it a couple of times and it is fine although even with two pack I would still be careful not to get fuel on it and if you do wipe it off straight away.
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I was in at MODAK the other day... they have a round emblem chrome tank in the window...$700. no paint.
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The fun is getting the paint line in the correct position, (or incorrect position) people seem to expect to find templates for this but it,s just a line of sight.
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What I do is look at as many other tanks and pictures as you can until you are reasonably sure how you want it to look and then mask one side up by hand. When you are happy with it make a paper template of that side and transfer it to the other side.
One thing to be careful of is to make sure you have the same amount of chrome above and below the badges, they look lousy if the badge is too high or low in the chrome panel
You cant see both sides of the tank at the same time so a minor difference will not be noticed, as long as when you look down from the top it looks the same it will be ok.
These tanks were originally all hand painted so there is no absolute "correct" way.
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Excellent - thanks guys! Helped make up my mind to just get them done in 2-pack - probably a smart move too since i only have another 4 weeks off and a zillion jobs to fit in so painting something will only add to that and I know a good painter. I like painting but it is a lot of work and never ventured into the 2 pack arena at home.