The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Gearbox, Clutch, Primary => Topic started by: muskrat on 26.05. 2011 11:18
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G'day all,
as I had the clutch out to rid it of the petrol that filled the crankcase and primary (left the fuel tap on) I did the usual check on things. The tensioner was getting 1mm gouges from chain wear and the chain plates were wearing as well.
I thought as modern bikes have nylon chain guides why not ours. I cut a strip off a nylon cutting board and attached it with 4 countersunk screws. The tensioner is very hard steel so had to use a masonry bit to drill it.
Will check it's wear at next oil change and report back.
Bugga, just looked at pics, forgot to lockwire the nuts. Back to the shed!
Cheers
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Steady on Muskrat, your shaming us here - a degree wheel incorporated, I'm impressed *respect*
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She's got Boyer so strobe to time. 5 degree markings.
Still trying to make everything go faster *smile*
Cheers
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Hi Muskrat,
Nice mod *smile*
Be prepared for some nylon shavings in the primary until the chain side plates cut their own grooves
and the rollers will then run on the nylon
I dont know how Mrs M will react when she finds a lump gone from the chopping board *eek* *eek*
Like the degree wheel *smile*
Regards
John O R
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nice mod muskrat hide the rolling-pin *lol*
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Pity they didn't incorporate this system onto the swingingarm models.
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I have a heap of worn chain adjusters so I will be interested how it goes Muskrat. I have thought of getting some of them metal spayed and build up has anyone done this before ?
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Looks a great idea as new ones are imposible to find. It also gives you a bit more adjustment. Mine's screwed all the way in, and there still a wee bit more play in the chain than I'd like. Suppose the real solution would be to get a new chain, but I've been holding off as the adjuster has groves perfectly aligned with the existing old chain.
I'd also need new sprockets, and as the clutch housing is integral with the large sprocket, and is also as rare as hen's teeth, that was a major hold up.
We'll watch this developmant with interest.
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Great mods *smile* , thanks for the ideas.
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Terry,
If you go that way you will probably have to get them hard chromed as they appear to be originally.
Another solution may be a neoprene strip glued to the face if you can find a suitable adhesive.
I reckon the nylon or neoprene would result in a bit of a reduction in noise.
Trev.
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Your right Trev, I can nearly hear myself think now (not that I do much of that while riding). First test ride very pleasing.
I thought about adhesive but was worried what would happen if it came off *eek*. Drilling hard steel is easy with a carbide masonry bit sharpened like a normal drill bit. Lots of RED loctite on the nuts plus a center punch for good measure.
Cheers
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Keep us posted Muskrat how it goes mate. You might be the forerunner of a new mod we will all have to do. Trend setter.
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How did it go ?
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G'day e,
Might get around to inspect this week. I think it's done about 600 miles. Been busy with a new project '64 A65.
Cheers.
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steady onMuskrat. That could constitute crossing over to the dark side *smile*
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Been there before, doesn't scare me. It's a BSA, it's an A model. Now I feel complete, 1 semi unit, 1 pre unit and a unit. Wife recons I'm not the full unit. *smile*
I'll be doing the same mod to it too.
Cheers
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G'day all,
very happy to report all good with mod. After 785 miles no wear at all on the slipper so would guess it will be quite a few thousand before it wears to the rollers. Could at least double the life of a chain.
Cheers
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Musky,
How has your primary tensioner mod held up over two years?
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Good work Musky!
For those who might not have noticed, you can see a date stamped to the upper left of the vertical arm of the slipper.
I assume this was the engine assembly date.
My semi unit A10's also have date(s) stamped in the same spot.
Richard
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Muskrat
As the original adjuster plate is "very hard steel" do you think it possible to make one successfully from a mild steel with the nylon block attached, or would this be flirting with danger.
Russ
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G'day fellas, it's just like the day I put it in and haven't had to adjust the chain at all.
Russ, my only concern with using mild steel is the rigidity of the curvature and right angle bend. As mentioned in another topic I sharpen a masonry drill bit the same as a normal drill bit, cuts no worries. *wink2*
Cheers
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Muskrat and others,
I can get a tensioner made at work from stainless with nylon attached as per Muskrat's. Is this a safe option?
Russ
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If you use steel about twice the thickness it should be fine,
Worst thing it could do is to bend into a tighter curve and that will not give you much grief.
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Or the 90 degree bend become 180 degrees.
Trev.
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That's the one that would be of most concern Trev.
Cheers
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Musky a great idea, read it a few times but I may have hit on a solution to the problem :-
Cut the piece you need from the chopping board from the other end from the existing handle, then you can say it can be used left or right handed or both, or, it's R&D invention for ambidextrous users (you can be on easy street)....?
Sorry couldn't help it..duTch
Oh yeah , if there's still slack in the chain at full adjust, best go for a new chain