The BSA A7-A10 Forum

Technical => Clutch, Primary, Gearbox => Topic started by: Hubie on 30.06. 2011 06:40

Title: Spring tension
Post by: Hubie on 30.06. 2011 06:40
G'day all,

Still doing little bits of fettling with the bike (she's oil tight though and going really well),
I get some time delay on acceleration for the speed to catch up with the revs, I cant' remember, clutch springs too tight, or too loose?  Sometimes when kicking it over, it slips a little too.

Cheers,
Hubie.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: Brian on 30.06. 2011 07:16
Too loose Hubie. As a general rule the threads are usually about level with the face of the screws.

Also depends on your clutch plates, a lot of the cheap ones available on evil bay are rubbish. Personally I will only use Surflex plates. Also the oil in the case can have an affect, some use ATF and some, including me, use engine oil. If you use engine oil make sure it is a motorcycle specific oil, car oils have friction modifiers in them which can cause the clutch to slip.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: Hubie on 07.07. 2011 09:28
Think I have the clutch sorted now.  Screwed the springs all the way home then let them out ¼ of a turn at a time until I could pull the lever in freely and without effort.  Clutch fully disengages and after a short run, there?s no slip (a big hint on mine was it was slipping at times when I was trying to kick it over too), even from fourth gear when I open the throttle so all I have to do is make a new gasket and put it back together and then it?s just a re weld for the centre stand mount and she?s fully fettled until It?s time to re tension then head.

Looking forward to a day without rain, hope you boys across the pond are enjoying your summer.  Bloody rain....I just want to ride!  *rant*
Cheers,
Hubie.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: trevinoz on 07.07. 2011 22:14
Hubie,
                 I guess that your centre stand holes in the frame are flogged out as is usual.
What I have done to stop the frame from wearing in the future is drill and tap the sides of the mounts and fit allen head grub screws to hold the pin from moving in the frame.
The pin is easily replaced if it wears, being, from memory, 1/2" bright shafting.
Better the pin wears than the frame!

  Trev.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: Hubie on 07.07. 2011 23:52
Sounds like a great idea Trev,

are you able to post a photo so I know what your setup is?

Cheers,
Dave.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: trevinoz on 09.07. 2011 00:35
I'll try to get in there with the camera later.
  Trev.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: trevinoz on 09.07. 2011 01:17
Dave,
              Have a look at the pictures.
Not very clear but you should be able to see the grub screws near the grease nipples but in the rounded part of the frame bracket.

  Trev.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: Hubie on 09.07. 2011 01:23
That's a much better setup Trev,

Thanks for the pics.  I have far less meat on the frame loop if you know what I mean on the timing side (about 3mm thick) which is why I think it has broken twice.
I'm going to build that up and go for the same kind of setup.

Thanks for you help,

Dave.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: wilko on 10.07. 2011 00:42
Watch out for the concourse police Trev!
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: chaterlea25 on 10.07. 2011 22:31
Hi All,
Way back when I was sorting out the frame on my SR, I despaired at the poxy design and resolved to try and improve it
Both the stand and frame pivots were totally fkd!!
My solution was to make a tubular bush by drilling and reaming a solid bar 3/4OD with a 1/2 hole
I welded this in position between the worn frame lugs, I drilled it in the centre to take a grease nipple
I built up the stand holes with weld then drillled out the pivot holes to 1/2in. I welded extra thickness around the outside of  the pivots to strengthen them!
I made a new pivot pin with a threaded end and bolted this through the stand/frame
This setup results in the stand bearing on the long tube rather than the narrow lugs on the frame /stand!!

I looked at my RGS project the other day and the pivots on the frame are also very worn, even though they are the heavier type than the SR *sad2* *sad2*
HTH
John O R
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: Hubie on 13.07. 2011 07:26
I've put a few miles under the A10 after putting the clutch back together, no slip, no drag can snick it into neutral at idle and it pulls very cleanly and smoothly now.  Bike will be in fine fettle after sorting the centre stand.   *smile*

Cheers,
Hubie
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: Hubie on 22.07. 2011 07:24
Was at a mate's place today, we got the oxy out and a washer fashioned to the same shape as the stand mount on the frame and added it to the frame and strengthened it.  All is well now and the bike is going fantastic.  Need a new cork seal for one of the fuel taps and I have a throttle cable on the way.  Other than that, she's tip top.

Cheers,
Hubie.
Title: Re: Spring tension
Post by: muskrat on 22.07. 2011 08:38
Good to hear Dave.
What I like about these old bikes is there is always something to give you an excuse to go to the shed.
Cheers