The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: alanp on 13.10. 2011 17:07
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Just thought I'd post up a photo of the valve I've fitted on the line from the oil tank to the engine.
It's a manual valve since I didn't want to risk an auto valve. I know some of you use autos, but I couldn't bring myself to fit one.
I run with 20W 50 oil so the oil gets through to the crank when not in use somewhat quicker than your average 40 or 50 grade.
I always have to switch off my ignition isolator switch before starting and will now include a check that the valve is open.
Hope this helps someone.
PS Just looked at the photo and realised that I need to give the bike a good clean after its 3000 miles or so.
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My mate put one on his late 1940s Norton International.
Guess what happened.
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I found this neat contraption on the internet recently:
When the valve is closed, the magneto cut-out contact is earthed via the push button. The bracket could be mounted using one of the hose adaptors that screws into the valve housing?
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In industry, we assume switches like that won't work when you need them.
Think I've said it before on here. Make the lever of the tap long enough to interfere with the kickstart, when closed and you might get off with it.
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It comes down to whether you have more faith in a non return valve or your memory, much as it hurts pridewise to say so I know my memory comes a poor second. *whistle*
The switch is a good idea but the more failsafe bits you incorporate the more bits there are to fail - catch 22 *doh*
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I found a new SRM oil pump solved the problem, also improved the oil pressure. Never liked death valves, I have had one blown engine through oil starvation - what a bloody mess and expense.
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Just bought a valve with kill switch combined from A W Dove for £40 inc UK postage. Used extensively on AMC machines which are notorious for wet sumping.
I am going to get in the habit of killing the engine with the oil switch rather than the handlebar switch - that way I know the switch works after every run.
I need to find a good supplier of oil line with the armoured spring round the outside. Any ideas?
The PO used straight 40 - now I know why! When I changed to 20/50 it filled the sump in a few weeks.
Jim
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Good work Alan, now all you need is a new clutch cable. One strand gone!
Cheers
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I agree with nigeldtr a new SRM oil pump solves the problem, and as these bikes require great care and attention a new oil pump not only solves the problem but as said, gives that all important oil delivery to the engine. Fitting anti sump valves is just a problem waiting to happen and as bill says you cannot rely on you memory. Ok so a new pump is £225 but that is a very small percentage of the motorcycles value and will give year of trouble free service.
All the best Goldy