The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Jes-can on 26.06. 2012 04:47
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Did a search but haven't found an answer. I'm having trouble removing the centre nut for the clutch. The inside spins when the outside is held in place! Also what about the nut holding the spring for the crank? Is there a special tool for that one. It's got the 4 slots in it and I'm not sure what is used to remove it. Really want to get his engine out of the frame so I can start cleaning it all up to be resprayed.
Cheers,
Jes
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Hi Jes.
To remove he Clutch centre nut you need to lock the clutch basket outer with the inner, you can buy a tool or make one by clamping two clutch plates together (Drive plate and plain plate). Regarding the crank nut, first remove the split pin if fitted, you can buy a tool, which is a C type spanner, or use a soft metal drift, you will need to lock the engine, as these nuts can be tight.
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Hi, see picture for a suitable cush tool. If not using a tool, careful not to damage the slots (using a hammer & a drift).
As mentioned, you need to find out the ways to lock the different moving parts when trying to dismantle\tighten things.
(& edited the topic title to reflect both questions)
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If you have access to a rattle gun then buy a cush nut socket.
Next best thing is socket with 4 sections cut out ( using a Dremel Tool ) leaving 4 pins to engage with the slots in the nut.
You will have to buy a 3/4" drive socket to get one that big.
A rattle gun works well on the clutch nut you can usually hold it tight enough with your fingers or a car oil filter tool.
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I've the 4 spring clutch and all I do is engage top gear and apply the rear brake , jam pedal or develope an extra arm, and undo never had any problems and will be doing it this way in about 3 weeks when I replace the adjusting screws and bolts, regards BobH
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Hi Bob
That's the method I used until the rear brake cable (brand new) snapped *cry*, sudden exhilaration of my leg to places as yet undefined hitting assorted bits of bike on it's travel left me in no doubt that a locking tool was the way to go.
I used two of each (friction and plain) drilled and bolted together, and a long piece of steel as a handle (watch where you attach it you have to get a socket on the centre nut).
Make the handle long enough that it will reach the floor or foot peg, you can then put as much torque on the centre nut as you want, with confidence that legs and even more delicate bits are safe.
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i use an impact wrench to tighten or remove both.
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Or go traditional with hammer and chisel for that authentic retro look!
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Been a while since I did it but my two bobs worth is, if the chain is still connected to the wheel/sprocket, slip it into gear(top I think) and hold the brake on.
If the wheel isn't on(as I did last time) you can wrap chain round the sprocket and feed a screw driver/small podgie bar or similar through the links at either end and hold on.
Cheers,duTch
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I use a rattle gun on those two and the front sprocket nut. I have two rubber (timber would do) wedges i put between the tyer and swing arm in top gear.
Cheers
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Hi Bill, sounds painful, not had that happen yet to me but probably stored up for some cold morning to add to the pain. I've also used a similar way to Musky by just locking the rear wheel with I think a bolt in the rear sprocket and chain. wonder if I'm not tightening the nut enough? regards BobH.
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was painful at the time Bob and for a while after but lesson learnt, don't buy cheap brake cable (it actually broke in and pulled out of the soldered on clevis)
Rattle guns - I have one, a great and useful tool but I have reservations about using it on a fine thread, possibly ill-founded reservation but I have seen bolts and studs ruined with them (on farm machinery mind you), OTOH saves looking about for a six foot length of water pipe *smiley4*
All the best - Bill
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You are right in your caution Bill. The threads need to be in reasonable condition. I vary the air pressure to the gun. Turn it up bit by bit till it strips the thread then back it off a tad. *eek* *eek* *whistle*.
Cheers
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Hi all
Im in the process of dismantling my A10 and struggling with the clutch centre nut - haven't any tool that fit - what size socket will I need if I go the rattle gun way?
Another question - when I read the manual it says 4 + 4 clutch plates - or 5 + 5 plates - but mine had 6 + 6 plates - and the 4 springnuts were very far out on the bolts... did somebody put to many plates in and compensated by only just tigthening the spring nuts so they hang on ?
regards
Joergen
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G'day Joergen, you have a 4 spring clutch which should have 6 plain steel plates and 5 friction plates. Sorry can't remember the size of the nut. You might also have the wrong springs or/and spring cups.
Cheers