The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: michael snellin on 23.07. 2012 17:43
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Hello, everyone, bit of a task on my hands,does any one know how to remove the oil plugs to clean out the oil gallies on the small bearing crankshaft on the a10.
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Michael,
I am not certain that the procedure for small bearing and large bearing is the same.
Here is a link to an article describing one approach that calls for drilling out the plugs and using a hex wrench for removal:
http://www.reocities.com/MotorCity/downs/9472/endplug.html
Also, here is some more discussion of the issue: http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,1172.msg8141.html#msg8141 . (The link above references the same article in the discussion thread. The link from Lannis does not work.)
Richard L.
P.S.
Lannis, are you out there?
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This is what I do....
Fortunately the plugs are made out of soft iron so drill straight through the centre of the plug with steadily increasing drill sizes until the hole almost reaches the threads then collapse the plug from the outside of the threads with a sharp punch. Finish by tidying up the threads with a tap. Sounds a bit crude but it does work.
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G'day Michael,
first you need to clean the punch marks, just touch them with a 1/8" - 3/16" drill. Usually a good hit with an impact driver (bit should be a good fit) moves the screw. If not then drill and use easyout (a big one #5). Still no good , use beezermacc's method.
Cheers
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Quicker to weld a bolt to the screw and remove it with a spanner.
Trev.
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Wow. You guys really hate the hex wrench method. As they say, "worked a treat" for me. Beezermac's method requires owning a tap. Muskie's counts on the impact driver actually working. Trev's requires you to have a good welding kit and fair welding skills. I don't doubt any of their knowledge. They all must have succeded with those approaches. I just know what worked for me with my limited kit of tools and knowledge. You could try Muskie's method, followed by mine, followed by Beezermac's. Hard to imagingine it would not be out by then, but Trev's would be ruled out.
Richard L.
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the good bit about Trevs' is that it may have initiated just enough isolated heat to crack the seal??? maybe
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And if your lucky it wont weld the plug to the crank. *eek* *smile*
Cheers
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Ok,guys,plenty of choices here let see what happens.??? Thanks to all.
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And if your lucky it wont weld the plug to the crank. *eek* *smile*
Cheers
That'd suck, but if the welding earth is attached to the bolt would be best?? and aim well-no guess work!
the good bit about Trevs' is that it may have initiated just enough isolated heat to crack the seal??? maybe
Obviously heating the plug is the wrong way round too, so would need to cool way down (nitrogen spray?)
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Dutch,
I'm guessin' you're just playing with the whole idea of it. It just seems to me that the welding approach would be the much more difficult and risky approach, perhaps to be attempted only by someone with the skills of Trev.
Richard L.
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Yo Richard, I guess it's not something that you'd have a go at unless you're confident, and am doing my best to point out(with musky's help) any pitfalls or benefits- don't like to entice anyone out of depth, but am always interested in a new technique, as they are a bitch.
I have an old rusty crank here,(on 40 under, still can get -60) that I may just have a go at when time allows.
Cheers for now
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Hi, all spent the best part of Sat removing the dreaded oil way plugs, rather be doing brain surgery !!!! one came out ok the second one wanted to stay there, had to do what beezermac said drill down to the edge, and remove the remains, am i right in thinkin it is 5/8 26tpi to clean up the threads, also is there any thing special regarding putting back new plugs, Loctite, etc, thanks to all you guys for your help.
adm edit: moved from 'Bikes, Pictures..' board.
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Thread spec is 5/8 x 20 t.p.i. which is a standard CEI20 size (CEI is cycle thread, normally 26 t.p.i. but CEI20 is 20 t.p.i). I make my plugs from sawn off bolts! Make sure you don't block the entry oilway by screwing the plug in too far. I wouldn't use loctite. Don't forget to punch / stake the edge to prevent self uncrewing. Blow through the oilway before fitting the rods. Get as much oil in the crank as you can before fitting the rods. Have fun!
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After years on the forum, I can still be surprised, amused and confusd by some of the recommended solutions. Presently confusing is, why one would make these crankshft plugs from old bolts when nice new hex-drive versions are readily available and cheap to ship? I bet there's a good reason
that I'm just missing.
Richard L.
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Hi Richard
Don't be surprised by any "because I can" answers, it's a man thing
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be very carefull if you use an easyout they break very easily then its time for spark eroding,my preference is to drop a washer over the plug then weld the centre building the weld up then i put a large nut over it and core weld it to the nut and unscrew it when it cools i have done this many times without fail............baz
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I forgot to add earlier that I did try Richards' Allen key method, but didn't succeed, so did the drill out/destruction method and managed to save enough thread to gauge it at 11tpi (LJx7/8"), which is same as BSF.(just for the record). I replaced with the U-beaut socket/allen plugs .
Cheers duTch
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After years on the forum, I can still be surprised, amused and confusd by some of the recommended solutions. Presently confusing is, why one would make these crankshft plugs from old bolts when nice new hex-drive versions are readily available and cheap to ship? I bet there's a good reason
that I'm just missing.
Richard L.
I made about ten of these, nicely parted off on the lathe, properly milled slots, superb fit. Took me about 45 minutes, cost £1. I shouldn't have used the expression 'sawn off' - sorry!
I see that most people resorted to my method for removal in the end.... needs must!
An important note to Michael Snellin - You are talking about the small journal crank, aren't you? The plugs have thread sizes as I stated previously. the large journal crank has a much bigger plug as stated in Dutch's post.
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Some people have better shops than others (here, I am others). At the same time, doesn't the use of a slot invite the same removal troubles, versus the hex variety?
Richard L.
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Deeper, broader slot makes for easier removal, also I'd be very surprised if many of us do enough miles to warrant doing this job more than once.
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What means "cei20"? Can anyone tell me, what thread is in -59 Super Rocket?
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I'm with you on this one Richard. And if the hex is rounded out by the use of ill fitting keys the start of the hole for easyout is there.
tv125, cycle thread comes in two types 26 tpi for most nuts & bolts and 20 tpi for the larger sizes http://www.motalia.com/Html/Charts/cycle_chart.html is a good chart.
Cheers