The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Housewiz on 03.11. 2012 21:51
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My SR came with what looks to be a 19" A65 rear wheel (19" A65 front wheel also) - the brake rod goes straight back to the brake hub pivot lever and the brake anchor is also on the left side of the swing arm. The hub is a quick release. Looking through several Spare Parts manuals and Service Sheets manuals I notice quick release hubs and full width hubs for the A10 models. All the restored and unrestored SRs I have seen in photos have the cross-over brake shaft, arm, and cable.
Not only did the PO change the rear wheel, but the swing arm had to be changed also. Now I am in the hunt for a swing arm - recommendations? I wish the PO was still with us, I have so many questions for that guy.
Thanks for any comments guys,
Steve
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Steve,
Post some photos.
1954/5 had the brake as described. RGS also.
What is the front wheel? Full width or half width brake drum type?
Trev.
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Steve where are you, in OZ ?
Some South Aust police bikes also came with that rear wheel set up.
On the left side of the frame there is a loop that holds the pillon footpeg, where the bottom of that loop attaches to the main frame is there a hole through the main frame ?
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Sorry it took so long to post these photos - 1st time at it. We shall see if it happens when I post this.
Both front and rear wheels appear to be A65 vintage. Neither are full-width, cast hubs. Swing arm at the left side has lug w/hole for the brake stay. No cross shaft from left to right side with cable, etc to rear hub on right side.
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Here is a photo of my '58 SR project. What is the double hole on the nacelle? One for a bulb and one for the switch?
Thanks guys,
Steve
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A65 nacelle, lighting and ignition switches.
Trev.
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Well you have done better than me with the pictures. I have tried and tried to post an introduction of myself with pictures. Failed every time!
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G'dat Steve, with Trev picking the headlight nacelle as A65, the rear wheel looks to be a later A65 (or may be B series) with speedo drive.
Cheers
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Hi Steve,
It looks as if the PO was a serious rider ???? ????
The QD rear wheel and rod brake gives a much better brake than the crossover shaft and cable
This type of wheel is also lot lighter than the full width iron hub
The solid swing arm pin is a smaller dia than the hollow one ! so has the frame has been modded to take the smaller pin??
The 8 inch single sided front brake is regarded as the best that BSA made and yours appears to be the iron hub with the vent holes , much sought after *ex* *ex*
If you were to revert to the standard A10 setup you would also need different fork bottom legs
The parts fitted to your bike are very sought after by those building RGS lookalikes
So why not dump the nacelle and fit chrome shrouds and headlamp, or even gold star type headlamp mounts?? *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile*
The bikes modifications form part of its history !!!! and thats to be commeneded in my opinion
Regards
John
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Excellent feedback from everyone. It just astounds me that someone would swap out so many A10 parts for A65 stuff. Why not buy an A65 to begin with? And where are all the missing A10 parts? The PO is deceased and his wife has no info. This guy (now his wife) own's one of the biggest Indian used parts shops in the US and built a lot of hill-climbing Indians. Maybe that was his plan for the SR.
I like original parts on my stuff, or at least NOS or parts that were bolted on at the factory or by dealers. Optional stuff is good too. I am definitely keeping eBay busy. It's tough for me to build a half A10, half A65 bike. Doesn't the original stuff have more value?
That's what was confusing me about the headlight. All the SR photos I have seen have the typical headlight with speedo and tach on a separate bracket which to me looks way better than the nacelle. I thought it was an imported bike to the US.
Thanks guys,
Steve
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Bit of a dilemma Steve, everthing they have done to your bike is actually an improvement over what was originally on it.
The rear wheel is definitely A65, the speedo drive and detachable sprocket denote that.
The front wheel is actually a genuine RGS or Gold Star one, the small holes in the back of the hub plus the finning on the drum show that.
I would be inclined to go with John's suggestion, it would make a very nice bike even though not original.
If you really want to make it original you are going to have to find a lot of parts, swingarm, both wheels and front forks, complete nacelle assembly etc. Might be a better option to sell what you have and look for a more original one.
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I also go with those opinions re the rear wheel. It's almost the same as a '54/'55 which I had on my plunger till I knew better, with same chainwheel as yours , but I think difference is maybe a external L/H(?) thread, or notches(?) to hold the speedo drive?
Problem was the chainwheel has a different outer bearing which the plunger sleeve(67-6060),didn't fit, and the chain didn't run true(different spacers, or bent frame).
Also may not matter with yours, but the sprocket size was way wrong 47(?) instead of 42, looks like yours is made for hillclimbs.
cheers, duTch
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More great feedback - you guys are excellent. My interpretation of what I have and how to repair/rebuild keeps getting more cloudy. With all these off-model parts, parts books and A10 manuals don't hold 100% useable info.
Will the swing arm be functional/safe at the frame connection? How do identify it and locate the correct bushings, etc?
Is the front end completely A65? Again, how do I identify it for rebuilding?
Although I have purchased used full-width cast iron f & r hubs, I may put them back on eBay. Better brakes BSA are a good thing.
Does the gas tank appear to be A10 or A65? Looks large to me - 4 gal?
The seat does not fit the frame - to me at least. No seat mounting hardware came with the bike.
Do you guys have a good source for speedos & rev counters?
Recommendations on motor, head, & gearbox tear down & rebuild? I can ask these off-swing arm questions in
a more appropriate post if it's recommended.
Thanks for any info you guys post!!!
Steve
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HI Steve
I hope my highlighting works???
Will the swing arm be functional/safe at the frame connection? How do identify it and locate the correct bushings, etc?
Have a close look at the frame plates where the pivot is, and look for signs of modification
if it's solid then I think it will be ok, if reducing bushes have bee fitted and the job is well done it it should also be ok
Is the front end completely A65? Again, how do I identify it for rebuilding?
Look at the bottom of the fork lower legs there may be a hole in line with the centre of the leg (like on japanese bikes) if this is there then the forks could be A65, This is where the A65 damper unit is bolted. I dont know if all the early A65 legs were like this or not, again an improvement over the A10 dampers.
Other than that the fork internals are the same as A or B series that use the single sided hub
Although I have purchased used full-width cast iron f & r hubs, I may put them back on eBay. Better brakes BSA are a good thing.
Always *smile*
Does the gas tank appear to be A10 or A65? Looks large to me - 4 gal?
UK and most other places had 4 gallon tanks, what diamater are the tank badges? 3in. round would be correct for 58 I think all A65's had pear shaped badges
The seat does not fit the frame - to me at least. No seat mounting hardware came with the bike.
Its not an A10 seat !! photos are too smal to get a proper look
Do you guys have a good source for speedos & rev counters?
There are several good people who supply reconditioned speedos /rev counters in the UK
I think Ebay prices are OTT
HTH
John
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Hey John and everyone else,
For whatever reason, trying to post a reply with photos is denied - "file too large". Even with just one photo??
The swingarm install appears tidy and tight - it stays up (level with floor) by itself. Is that cool or should it's own weight cause it to fall to the floor?
The tank badge diameter is 3".
I can't post photos of the bottoms of the fork legs. *sad2* There is a main axle that threads into the bottom of the opposite side fork leg. There are clamp bolts at the bottom of each fork bottom. Does the entire front end appear to be from an A65 or are there parts of an A10 also. Need to have some idea when I want to order fork seals, springs, etc.
Does anyone have contact info for those who rebuild tachos and speedos?
Thanks,
Steve
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I have also noted the same swingarm on my SR can be seen in photos of GF and RGS models where those bikes have the same brake rod set-up on the left side as well as the left side hub - no full width hub. In terms of finding a chain guard, what BSA models sported the swingarm that I have to help sorting which 'guard to buy?
Thanks,
Steve
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There is a limit on the size of photo files.
O[en the image on your screen then use the "save for the web" option.
If you do not have that then try to email the photos to yourself. most email applications will automatically down size the image.
If you have image editing application then open the image, and resize it to 6" x 4" @ 72 dpi.
The swing arm should drop to the floor under it's own weight, but very few do due to hardening of the rubber.
Quick & nasty test is to remove the shocks with the wheel in the frame.
\If the rear of the bike drops down onto the wheel it is useable provided there is no side play.
If it stays where it was it is cactus & I have had some that stayed up even with 2 people sitting on the bike.
Bike Beesa
Trevor
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Hi Trevor /Steve
I have to disagree with your point on the swingarm dropping under its own weight !!
The silentbloc (inner) bushes should be clamped in place by the tightening of the pin nut
The swing arm should be springy , when moved and return to centre,
the pivoting is achieved by the rubber in torsion
When setting up the bike the swing arm nut should only be tightened when the bike is resting on its wheels with a riders weight onboard
The chainguard should be the 54/55 type or "goldie / rgs type"
A quick google on chrono speedos
http://www.chronometrics.co.uk/
http://www.chronometricspeedos.co.uk/index.html
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/
Ian Bartram 01502 476612 Beccles Suffolk
HTH
John
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John,
My swing arm looks real close to a red A65 swingarm that is on eBay right now. The brake stay is on the left side along with two mounts for what I am assuming would be the c-guard look just like what's on mine.
Still should be the 54/55 or RGS Goldie type?? I started searching eBay for A65 parts to see if anything looks familiar. I saw an A65 nacelle that Trev & Muskrat correctly ID'd. Still don't know if the entire fork assembly is A65 or some combination of A10 & A65 parts.
So many switched parts on this Magical Mystery Tour bike. Craaazy!!
Thanks guys!!!
Steve
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Steve,
Have a look at the bottom of your fork sliders.
If there is a hole and an Allen socket screw visible, they are A65.
Measure the depth of the front brake drum.
A65 is wider than A10, post about 1965.
Trev.
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Hey Trev,
I had photos of the fork bottoms ready to post but was shut down by the "file size". Odd due to being able to post several at the same time earlier in the thread.
Anyway, no allenhead screws nor holes - just axle clamp bolts and fender strap bolt tabs. The axle slips through the left fork bottom and threads into the right fork bottom - if that helps w/identifying things. So that begs (another) mystery question - why put an A65 nacelle on A10 forks??
Saw another SR ('61) with a nacelle so it looks like it's going to stay after all. Buy a separate rev counter and mount it centrally in a bracket bolted to something over the top yoke is the plan.
Thanks,
Steve