The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: Rgs-Bill on 23.04. 2013 17:48
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Hi fellas, any one out there have any opinions on soldering a new 3/16's outside diameter oil pipe onto the Banjo fitting on the return side of the oil, on the back of the oil tank. This feeds the return oil to the rocker box. I have had 2 different schools of thought on this, one Brit fella that now lives here in the U S , and works at an Ace Hardware Store, rode nothing but BSA's in his youth growing up in the U K. He told me soldering this oil pipe into the banjo fitting can be done with regular plumbers solder, 50% tin 50% lead. He also said unless this fitting gets over 300* degrees F. that this solder is just fine. I have used it for 40 years when making up my cable ends. Now some have said I need to use Map Gas (hotter) and silver solder here because of the heat. I would like to hear from anyone who has done this either way, and had success or failure, and why it failed, or worked.
THANKS MUCH
RGS-BILL
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Bill,
I use silver solder as I have found in the past that soft solder can crack and leak.
I know that it shouldn't if done properly but it has.
Trev.
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I agree with Trev. I tried soft solder on the rocker feed tee piece for years. Didn't stop the leak till I did it proper with silver solder.
Cheers
PS at least at the top it makes a mess. Down there it's all over your back tyre *eek*.
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Mapp gas and silver solder did it for me.
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Minority report: soft solder (but 60/40 not 50/50) should be fine as long as it's a proper job. If it works for control cable nipples (which it does) then it's strong enough here. IMO of course.
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I agree, Ian, it SHOULD be strong enough but I have had some that weren't.
I know that the tube and fitting should be tinned and then sweated together and have done so but the silver solder is a much better job.
Trev.
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"If in doubt" *smile*
Julian
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Silver solder for me, soft solder would probably be ok if it were not for the vibration. In an emergency soft solder but for a long term proper fix silver solder every time IMO
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Looks like you need to dig deep into your pockets Bill, last time I priced solder it was 18 UK pounds for a stick ( stick about about 10 - 12 " thickness of your pinkie).
Anybody (plumber maybe) know what kind of solder is in those pre-soldered copper pipe fitting, could be sweated out and reused or is that not a good idea.
Also as I'm scribbling no-one's mentioned flux and bright metal parts to join - both a big help
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Anybody (plumber maybe) know what kind of solder is in those pre-soldered copper pipe fitting, could be sweated out and reused or is that not a good idea.
It is that horrible lead free stuff. *warn*
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It is that horrible lead free stuff.
no idea Fido, but it works just fine for water pipes, I replaced some dodgy copper pipe when fitting our kitchen ( better now than next winter after the things burst) and I used the pre-soldered fittings for the first time, I was impressed not a single leak (unlike my experience using compression joints), a plumber told me to first wire wool the pipes and internal of fittings which I did.
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Yes, it does work but the old fashioned Lead/Tin solder was easier to use as it flowed better. They do not have the Yorkshire fittings or compression in Hungary, just the simple end feed solder type. I ran out of flux and the only stuff I could get was a grey paste with powdered solder mixed with flux. That proved to be hopeless and all the joints leaked initially until I re-did them with a reel of solder.