The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: roadrocket.chris on 06.07. 2013 18:48
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I have found the answer to the wet sumping problem. It's cheap and effective .
check out my video and you'll see how it works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPhvJn3witc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPhvJn3witc)
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That would be a handy item on my forever wet sumping 51 A7. After 1 week she has over a pint in the sump. After a few weeks it's all in there and a lot has found it's way into the primary *eek*.
My only concern is if it gets knocked going over a gutter. In their blurb they say.
"Safety:
Drive carefully at all times, and if you run over any foreign object on the road pull over and check the valve for any damage or leak."
Ha, I'd be stopping every 500 yards.
But still I might try one.
Thanks for posting.
Cheers
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hi musky they do a clip that they say will stop that happening give it a try.
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Chaps
I cannot get sound on my Computer, where are these valves on sale ? Curious ? I still get a small bit of oil even with the SRM pump ( I know why, that is on another long thread )
Colin
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i bought it on line you can see the address on the pamphlet on the video.
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No sound? Still using that old 1920's computer.
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Hi, I have a RGS with an SRM sump plate. Does anyone know the thread size for their drain plug?
Thanks,
Ron
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srm say its 1/2 inch bsf or m12 1.5 depending on age.hope this helps.
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Thanks. Their web site is down so I can't check it myself. I bought it last summer so I guess it is new. I use a 17 mm socket to remove it.
Thanks,
Ron
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sorry to be thick but it is not also as easy just to take the drain plug out of the srm plate ? plus the srm drain plug has a magnet it it as well ?
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Hi Nick.
I have always checked my SRM sump with a handy spanner and using a small plastic Tupperware, put the surplus in the tank. A very good point about the magnet. Mine has only done 28 miles since rebuild and do get very small deposits.
Regards Colin
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Nick, you are right. I spoke with Gary at SRM and he thinks I should use 50 Wt oil instead of 40 Wt. (RGS). I have their new version oil pump yet it still wet sumps. I had mixed feelings about exchanging the magnet for the ease of draining the sump from the start, so will carry on with removing the drain. Quickvalve is a nice idea though.
Ron
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I was in a hurry on Sunday. Took the cafe out to go up to club meeting only to see very low oil pressure about 5 miles from home. Returned home and jumped on the '51. A few mates (modern bike riders) were watching as I fired her up. Their eyes nearly popped out when they saw the puddle forming under the bike. I said she'll be right, she's only wet sumped. I could here the oily BSA jokes as I rode off. Only lost about 500ml.
Cheers
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i think gary srm would say the best cure is to use the bike and not give it time to wet sump , I was using my plunger a10 for commuting in central london every day and wet sumping never a problem
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Ron Lillygunny.
I too have this years new SRM oil pump. My rebuilt A10 is still wet sumping too much considering SRM's advert. Is their Gary at SRM saying that changing from 40 WT to 50 WT oil will cure this. Don't get me wrong SRM are great so is the pump, great return when running. I splashed out for their pump to save the problem. I do know about the small valve behind the pump.
Thanks Colin *conf*
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I have bought products from SRM, and I have been happy with the quality of those products, but I would not necessarily accept what SRM says as being always strictly correct. SRM are good at what they do, but they are not infallible. This is especially relevant on the subject of oil and lubrication. I stand to be corrected if it is no longer the case, but it certainly used to be the case that if you had a crank end feed conversion done, or an engine rebuilt by SRM they stated that if you used anything other than mono grade oil in your newly built engine, or fitted an in line oil filter then the warranty will be invalidated. I find this bizarre in the extreme. Oil technology has advanced considerably since mono grade oils were the norm. Indeed in the final years BSA were recommending the use of multi grade oil in their motorcycles. BSA were also fitting external oil filters I have an external oil filter fitted to my RGS that uses the filter element from the Rocket 3. I fail to understand the logic of why they would make such a stipulation. I also have an SRM sump plate. It is a nice piece of kit, but it comes supplied with a set of Allen screws that are intended to hold it in place. I substituted the screws for studs (the BSA method of fixing into place) because continuous screwing and unscrewing the screws to gain access to the mesh filter for cleaning purposes would eventually degrade the crank case threads. Like I said SRM are good, but they do not always know best.
John
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Hi Colin. I live in NC, USA where summer temps are mostly low 90s, so Gary said to run 50 wt in the summer and stay with the 40 wt in the winter. I had put an SRM oil pump in my RGS last summer, and just sent it back for their anti-wet sumping update, but sadly this did not cure the wet sumping. Gary was surprised. I will try the oil change-I use 50 wt in my Gold Star but it does not wet sump at all. Mind, these are the recommended oils in the owner's manuals.
I wish I could ride this bike daily as has been suggested. Would not be practical with my job.
I ride weekends unless it rains, then it might be 2 weeks and the sump will have about 12 ozs.
Ron
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G'day Ron.
My '51 wet sumps a little more than yours. If it gets any worse I'll bite the bullet and split the cases to replace the ball and spring. I just live with the fact and drain her before rides. If I'm in a rush (last Sunday) there's a 5oz puddle to mop up when I get home.
Next time I'll do the mod to put the ball and spring behind the pump (A65 type).
Cheers
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A ball and spring won't do shit. The oil can still leak past the oilpump gears and spindle.
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Hi Colin. I live in NC, USA where summer temps are mostly low 90s, so Gary said to run 50 wt in the summer and stay with the 40 wt in the winter. I had put an SRM oil pump in my RGS last summer, and just sent it back for their anti-wet sumping update, but sadly this did not cure the wet sumping. Gary was surprised. I will try the oil change-I use 50 wt in my Gold Star but it does not wet sump at all. Mind, these are the recommended oils in the owner's manuals.
I wish I could ride this bike daily as has been suggested. Would not be practical with my job.
I ride weekends unless it rains, then it might be 2 weeks and the sump will have about 12 ozs.
Ron
50 weight is perfect for a beesa single like a goldie with narrow load roller big ends, the heavy oil really helps their big end bearing life. However in the milder climates I wouldnt put a 50 into a plain bush motor like an A10 and definitely not as a cure for wet sumping.
My race A10 runs on straight 40 castor right through what passes for summer in NZ ;)
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Hey you fellas having trouble with wet sumping , try parking the motor on the compression stroke when you are done riding for the day, it covers the crank oil holes with the rod bearing shell, it will cut your sumping by half at least, unless the wear in your oil pump gears, and shaft are really bad, then not much will help, except a tear down, and conversion to the A-65 type heavier spring set up. I am not a fan of any shut off valves at all, NILL, NADA, NO WAY, it only takes once, to ROAST a motor ! ! ! ! As far as using 50 weight mono grade oil, you have to be in a really warm climate, so the oil never gets really thick. The problem I was told with 50 wt. mono grade oil is that it can be so heavy, it can wash out the white metal bush, if you still have one, instead of the roller conversion. I do not know if this is true, but some of the racers here on the forum, would know if thick 50 wt. mono would wash out the timing side white metal bushing. I was told this by a mechanic here in the Seattle area, that specializes in BSA's, we also have cooler weather conditions than average of 90* summer time, like in North Carolina .The weather here is more like the UK climate, with a bit more winter time rain. Most of my riding is in temperatures in the low to middle 70's, and I will use 40 wt mono, but not 50 wt.
BILL
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Hi Chaps.
Just got the quick tap today, what a helpful company, five star. Fitted in seconds, job done. Impressive engineering.
regards Colin
Southend