The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => A7 & A10 Engine => Topic started by: BMFBMF on 02.02. 2014 22:02
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Hi folks,
I am new around here, I have a 58 trumph but this is my first peek at the possibility of owning a BSA.
I have been offered a 61 A10 basket case for 1500 $.
I went to look at it yesterday. The frame looks good, very little rust, wheels are a bit rusty but all true. Gearbox has been redone and is back in the frame. Oil and tool kit tanks are present.
The engine looks tired (as one would expect) but does not look bashed and abused. The con rods side to side movement means that there is a LOT of play on the main bearings.
The pistons are buggered and are already +.04" oversize. The cylinder has a piece broken off below the skirts (see photo)
All seems to be there for the frame and engine.
However my questions are:
1. With the +.04" pistons am I at max oversize ? With the broken skirt should I buy a new barrel, are they available? or can I use it and just rebore further?
2. All tinwork (tank, mudgaurds, rear light /numberplate holder) was destroyed when the painter divorced his wife (she called the junkers!!!!!!!) Are these available and do you have any leads on where to procure these?
3. The speedo and ammeter were also stolen or sold off at some point. I imagine the ammeter is easy to replace but the speedo I am sure is not. Any advice?
4. The handleber is missing along with all levers and controls. I imagine these are fairly easy to source copies, any advice as to where?
4. How available are general items (valve guides, valves, Clutch parts, etc?)
Generally, should I dive in? I have pretty much decided but would like some input from the specialists.
Thanks a million Brett
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52863271/IMG_0419.jpg)
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Hi Brett, lets see if we can answer a couple of your questions.
1. You can go larger than +.040". There are +.060" readily available plus larger sizes again if you can source pistons. The barrel can be re-sleeved back to std if necessary. The damaged part is no great disaster, a bit of carefull grinding to smooth off the jagged part and it will be ok.
2. Depends on if you want to go original or are prepared to be flexible. Original tinware is available but it could take some time searching dealers online etc. If you are not intending on going original Goldie type chrome guards are available. Being a 61' it would have had a full nacelle type headlight set up but once again if originality isnt your thing then thats no great problem.
3. Speedo's are available off the internet (e-bay) but are expensive.
4. Handlebars and levers are all available, originals if you spend the time searching or replica's are readily available.
5. Just about all mechanical parts are readily available, there are specialist companies like SRM in the UK that specialise in A10's.
$1500 is not a lot of money but it will cost a lot to complete and restore the bike, probably cheaper to buy a restored one but not as much fun and at least if you do it yourself you will have a bike you know intimately.
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Basket cases generally do not make financial sense versus buying a working bike as brian says......often the price reflects the value of the parts rather a complete bike.
Wheels can be expensive eg new rims bearings spokes and labour to do the job. Upwards of 400 usd per wheel?
A mag rebuild is expensive and will most be reqd. Over 400usd maybe?
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G'day Brett.
I agree with Brian and KiwiGF. You'd probably need to throw another $4K at it which would bring it up to about what it's worth. But it is doable. See if you can screw him down to $1K.
Cheers
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Need to make your case? Here is the link to a 1957 A7 sold for US$1,000. I happen to know the buyer paid $400 to get it transported 820 miles from the seller located in The-Middle-Of-Nowhere, NY to just outside Chicago, IL. This bike is in much more complete and original condition than what you've described.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111181724455?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D111181724455%26_rdc%3D1
Richard L.