The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Sealandroader on 01.08. 2014 16:02
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is there any other method of paint removal other than thinners, i don't want to scratch the alloy under the paint
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Nitromors but not sure how it reacts to alloy, if you watch it carefully you can remove the softened paint before it gets softened all the way through, scrape off with a plastic scraper.
If you intend to polish the alloy maybe remove the last of the paint with 2500 0r 3000 grade wet and dry which would leave a fine matt finish prior to polishing
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Nitromors will not move automotive paint anymore as the active ingredient had to be removed under stupid eu green laws. I bought some a month or two back and it did nothing to the paint at all , just sat on the paint and after a few hours it had only softened the paint slightly. The only strippers i found that did work was rustins "Strypit" which works fine.
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where can this be acquired in the uk please
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Seal (SLR?),
Have you thought about soda blasting? http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodablasting
It seems our old friends at T&L Engineering in Chester might be set up for this process.
[Actually, I'm in Chicago, and don't know the T&L folks at all, but I think I would If I lived near Chester (been there once).] *smile*
Richard L.
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where can this be acquired in the uk please
The original paint stripper with dcm can still be used by professionals , but is banned from sale to diy users. You could try anywhere that sells paint to professional spray painters, or cabinet makers/french polishers. i think frosts sell it as aircraft stripper. But the rustins strypit should be available from any hardware, it says on the can dcm free, but it works as good as the old stuff.
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Nitromors will not move automotive paint anymore
Do you know this for a fact bonny. I have just stripped several layers of lacquer, top coat and primer from my Flash with Nitromors purchased from Halfords a few weeks ago and it worked ok, certainly didn't take it all off at once but that's no bad thing in Sealandroader's case.
The paint on the Flash was Cellulose (was done about 15 years ago)
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Nitromors will not move automotive paint anymore
Do you know this for a fact bonny. I have just stripped several layers of lacquer, top coat and primer from my Flash with Nitromors purchased from Halfords a few weeks ago and it worked ok, certainly didn't take it all off at once but that's no bad thing in Sealandroader's case.
The paint on the Flash was Cellulose (was done about 15 years ago)
The nitromors i used bill came in a green can, the stripper itself was a different colour (white) and a different smell to what i remember it. I tried it on both powder coat and paint, i daubed it on heavy and then covered the work with a refuse sack and left it for an hour. When i came back it had only slightly softened both and had not wrinkled it up as you would expect. Took the remains back to the shop for a refund and the owner told me he has had more compliants over nitromors than anything else in the shop. The ban on dcm in stripper only came in last summer afaik , so you might have been lucky and got some old pre ban stock.
I bought a litre of strypit on wednesday and was using it tonight, it shifts anything i have put it on so far, powder coat, acrylic , and cellulose paints. Its the one to go for if you want results.
http://www.paintsquare.com/news/?fuseaction=view&id=7328
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That's interesting bonnie, my stuff is green, I did buy some stuff (cause it was cheaper) at our local decorators, it was white and pretty useless.
I would think Halfords would have a quick turnover of stock and would have withdrawn anything that might come back to bite them.
Just wondering if there is fake stuff on the market, they fake everything else (did you get the safety gloves in the lid)@
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That's interesting bonnie, my stuff is green, I did buy some stuff (cause it was cheaper) at our local decorators, it was white and pretty useless.
I would think Halfords would have a quick turnover of stock and would have withdrawn anything that might come back to bite them.
Just wondering if there is fake stuff on the market, they fake everything else (did you get the safety gloves in the lid)@
yes got the cheapo gloves in the lid. Another possibility if you want a more potent paint remover is to buy a litre of dcm (its still sold for degreasing etc) off flea bay and mix it back into the paint stripper. A lot of lads are doing that.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dichloromethane-99-5-Pure-1-Litre-1L-/140574270571?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bae1246b
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As it happens, by coincidence, I am also in in the middle of stripping the paint from my C12 project. I have been using Nitromoors, and it has been OK sort of. It certainly does not seem to work as well as it used to, but then again this the first time that I have used paint stripper in a long time, so it could be that my recollections of its efficiency in the dim and distant past, might well be colouring my judgement. I have had to strip about 3 coats of paint. Top coat was a paint of unknown type and origin. It blistered and became soft quite quickly after applying the Nitromoors. The top paint layer could very well have been domestic household paint. It had been applied by brush, and in some areas the coat was quite thick. The second paint layer was the original factory applied BSA maroon (Devon Red). The first thing that I noticed was that the Nitromoors had penetrated through , and slightly softened the BSA paint in some, but not all areas from the initial application to the top coat. This can probably be explained by the variable thickness of the brushed on top coat. I do not know what the original BSA paint is/was, but it was noticeable that it did not blister. Under the BSA maroon, there was a creamy/yellow under coat. Both of the BSA applied paints were relatively easy to scrape off, but the task was tedious and protracted. There are several reasons why this was so. To be perfectly honest, the brazing left much to be desired. By that I mean there was quite a lot of excess braze residue comprised of odd spots of braze not just around the forged casting to tube joints, but in other less obvious places too. As a result of this the paint scraping was impeded by the scraper frequently hitting bits of odd braze residue. For this reason the frame tubes were far more difficult to strip than they should have been. The forged castings presented an altogether different problem. Because the castings have a rough (as cast) finish it proved to be very time consuming to remove the paint from them. In most areas the top coat came of without to much trouble, the primer was a different matter though. The primer just like the BSA Maroon did not blister. It just went soft. I found it necessary to use wire wool, pot scourers, and wire brushes to shift it. It clung very tenaciously to the rough surface of the castings. Hardly surprising really. The casting surface is probably the ideal key for paint to stick to. As for the Nitromoors itself? Well, it has done the job, but going by my experience, you need to apply several successive applications. Apply, scrape off as much as you can, then apply more, and scrape again. Repeat this cycle as necessary. I must be honest, it is hard work, and very tedious. Perseverance is most definatley the key. Incidentally I got my Nitromoors from Halfords. It came in a square tin with a big green lid. No safety gloves though. Clearly I was done!
John
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Buy some rustins strypit john, it seems to be far more potent than the nitromors and it is the same price, roughly. I apply a good thick layer of stripper and let it sit for a while, when i am happy it has softened the paint i give the area a good scrub with some coarse steel wool or a scotch pad, making sure the work is kept wet with stripper. When i am happy with the work i use a clean piece of steel wool dipped in cellulose gunwash thinners and wipe the area clean. Obviously you need to be in a well ventilated area or you'll wind up high as a kite.
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tried the nitromors method, and found it very long winded, so after an hour or so one of my mates came around and brought some celly thinners, it just fell off, very messy though and no damage left underneath, should really have thought of it myself. anyway job done. thanks everyone for your input.
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what are you going to repaint with sealandroader ?
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I gave up stripping years ago.
there are scores of commercial paint removers down here, again because factories could not comply with the OH&S nazis.
However this has been a blessing for me.
Strip a tank for $ 25.00, full frame for $ 30.00.
The blokes know their stuff and it is actually cheaper than buying stripper, let alone being easier.
Just remember if you are not gong to start the painting within 24 hours give the parts a hit with some sort of product like WD 40 or Innox or get them to put a preserving coat on it or passivate the surface as it will be very clean and chemically active and rust from the moisture in your breath or a fingerprint.
In my case this is exactly what I want the parts to do as I always use POR 15 as a base coat on steel and POR 15 reacts and chemically bonds to surface rust.
If you go down the POR 15 route, then chemical stripping is ideal and actually a lot cheaper than paint stripper, followed by marine clean then surface activator then POR 15.
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BONNY i have decided to repaint in 2PK . all paint now stripped off.
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Buy some rustins strypit john
Bonny, I used Nitromoors because by default it was the only stripper that I could find on sale locally. Halfords, B&Q, Homebase, etc. After my experience with stripper, I think however, that I shall probably opt to have the mudguards and the other remaining bits and pieces sandblasted. What prompted me to strip the paint myself was the fact that I had bought this bike as a retirement project. As the main purpose of the project was to give me something to do, it would be defeating the object of the exercise if I farmed bits out that I could reasonably do myself.
John
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Gee- for what it's worth, I think I had intentions of just painting over the original paint, 'cos it seemed to want to stay there, so I figured it can stay-good solid sealer, so used a bit of caustic to just take the rough stuff off mine but left it too long, and everything came off...! *conf*
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BONNY i have decided to repaint in 2PK . all paint now stripped off.
I am doing the same thng myself at the moment, i have most of the crappy powder coat off and have primed the frame and a lot of the cycle parts in 2k epoxy primer (very tough stuff). Still haven't decided which colour to go for though, black or gold. I'd like to go with gold , but it means a bit more work.
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2 PK *eek*
Thought you had to have breathing gear and all sorts for that.
Busy spraying my Flash at the mo, with Cellulose , got the paint from a body shop , the guy got it in special (spirit paint they call it) as all they use now is water based
Anyway it was in two days later, it's a Toyota biege 465 (from memory) and its marked acrylic, he matched it to the Flash's tank colour as it's good and I'm not respraying it.
Anyway I thought as I can't recall a paint thread I'd share my experience and start one, so any experts or well practised in the art of colour can butt in and put me right and in doing so help us all along.
Watch this forum space as they say
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2 PK *eek*
Thought you had to have breathing gear and all sorts for that.
Busy spraying my Flash at the mo, with Cellulose , got the paint from a body shop , the guy got it in special (spirit paint they call it) as all they use now is water based
Anyway it was in two days later, it's a Toyota biege 465 (from memory) and its marked acrylic, he matched it to the Flash's tank colour as it's good and I'm not respraying it.
Anyway I thought as I can't recall a paint thread I'd share my experience and start one, so any experts or well practised in the art of colour can butt in and put me right and in doing so help us all along.
Watch this forum space as they say
The problem with celly or acrylic is the ethanol in the petrol will react with it and lift it. Afaik only 2k is tough enough to withstand it. We've all had spills or overfilled the petrol tank, if you do that now your paint could be destroyed.
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celly or acrylic is the ethanol in the petrol will react with it
I've heard that but never experienced it even with the odd spill the paint on my tank is just as it was when done 15 years ago , a mate of mine did though and found that you can get fuel resistant clear lacquer which cured his problem.
I have a can but haven't used it yet
Actually (correct me if I'm wrong) but isn't 2 PK an Acrylic with a hardener
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The problem is Bill, ethanol resistant is not good enough. The paint must be ethanol proof. It might be OK for a while. One spill may not cause an instant reaction, but over a period of time ethanol resistant paint will break down. My RGS filler cap tends to be incontinent therefore I never fill the tank right up. Even so if I encounter a bump in the road when the tank has been recently filled, the petrol can splash up, and leak past either the filler cap or the tank top breather. I am quite paranoid and I am meticulous about wiping petrol off of the outside of the tank. My tank was professionally painted by Lewis Templeton some years ago, but I take no chances.
John
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The nitromors i used bill came in a green can, the stripper itself was a different colour (white) and a different smell to what i remember it. I tried it on both powder coat and paint, i daubed it on heavy and then covered the work with a refuse sack and left it for an hour. When i came back it had only slightly softened both and had not wrinkled it up as you would expect.
I also had this experience with Nitromors; or should we now call it Notremove! I seem to remember that the small print on the can says something about it not removing automotive paints.
While restoring my BSA I used caustic soda to remove most of the grease and paint. CS is cheap from DIY stores. I made up a mixture in a large plastic garden tub. It works well but not instantly.
WARNING 1: DO NOT PUT CAUSTIC SODA ON ALUMINIUM!
WARNING 2: DO NOT PUT WATER ONTO CS GRANULES; ALWAYS ADD CS TO WATER.
WARNING 3: DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES OR GET THE MIXTURE ON YOUR SKIN.
PS.
This bloke doesn't seem to mind putting an aluminIum lever in CS:
http://youtu.be/gTbE316-Dow
I also used CS to remove rust on my iron head and barrels; like this.
http://youtu.be/AQNvhUYqCkw
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celly or acrylic is the ethanol in the petrol will react with it
I've heard that but never experienced it even with the odd spill the paint on my tank is just as it was when done 15 years ago , a mate of mine did though and found that you can get fuel resistant clear lacquer which cured his problem.
I have a can but haven't used it yet
Actually (correct me if I'm wrong) but isn't 2 PK an Acrylic with a hardener
Thing is bill i don't think there was ethanol in the petrol this side of the atlantic 15 years ago, so the paint would probably have been ok. It would be a pity to pay out for paint and the labour involved in getting a nice job done only to have it washed away with a simple petrol spill.
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Thing is bill i don't think there was ethanol in the petrol this side of the atlantic 15 years ago,
ahem - I don't run on fifteen year old petrol bonny :D
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Thing is bill i don't think there was ethanol in the petrol this side of the atlantic 15 years ago,
ahem - I don't run on fifteen year old petrol bonny :D
Its like wine, its better with age ....not. I had a lot of trouble with ethanol when i put my triumph 500 back on the road after it had been off the road for a few years. The petseal in the tank broke up causing blockages in the carb, the fuel line turned to jelly one day causing a huge leak, and of course when i spilled some petrol on the tank the paint was destroyed. My point was though paint 15 years ago wasn't designed to cope with this muck.
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The Nimbus I have listed in my footer had I presume only been used on static display since it's refurbishment. Even within a week or two of a test run I found the paint bubbling under the filler cap. Upon recommendation I went with this stuff:
http://kustomcanz.com/product/2k-clear-coat-custom-aerosol-can
It's horrible money (to my mind) and being a two pack you need to use it in one sitting so to speak. I can report that it sprays on an absolute treat. Following a very protracted battle firstly with NOVA and the DVLA I have only just received my registration papers for this bike, so somewhat uselessly here I cannot yet report on just how impervious this coating will be to the ravishes of the ghastly Ethanol.
Should have my new number plate and the fuel tank fitted next week for a proper foray out onto the highways and byways this coming weekend. (Yee Haa).