The BSA A7-A10 Forum

Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Lucas, Ignition, Charging, Electrical => Topic started by: tiggy on 12.08. 2014 12:06

Title: E3L - re-wind original armature or replace with new unit?
Post by: tiggy on 12.08. 2014 12:06

Is there a consensus of opinion on which is the best option?
If you have an original armature core is it better to get this re-wound or to buy a complete new armature, or in other words are the new units made to a high standard?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Thanks

Title: Re: E3L - re-wind original armature or replace with new unit?
Post by: a10 gf on 12.08. 2014 17:16

In a rewind price quote, do they replace a worn commutator if needed? I'd say rewind if the commutator and all else is fine, and get a new one (from a reputable seller offering warranty) if there is wear in addition to the need for rewind. But the price difference seems not that big. Others here may have experience with replacement parts.

Title: Re: E3L - re-wind original armature or replace with new unit?
Post by: morris on 12.08. 2014 21:26

I bought a new one about 2 years ago because the thread on the taper end was knackered. Paid about 65£ for it. Still going great even on 12V.

Title: Re: E3L - re-wind original armature or replace with new unit?
Post by: muskrat on 13.08. 2014 11:40

I did the dynamo on the cafe about 4 years ago with a full kit like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lucas-E3L-dynamo-rebuild-kit-Taper-BSA-A7-A10-/120919990359?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1c2764a057
Took about 1 hour ride in ride out and no special tools needed.
Cheers

Title: Re: E3L - re-wind original armature or replace with new unit?
Post by: beezermacc on 16.08. 2014 07:16

There are two types of new ones available. The ones made in China can be identified by their slots which are filled with a red plastic substance and the wires to the commutator have a clear moulded plastic substance covering them. These should be quite cheap, maybe £35 retail. I've used quite a few of them and never had any problems except the threads on the shaft where the bearing collar screws on aren't very good - you need to file them with a triangular file to get the screwed collar to fit. Once felltled, theyre fine (in my experience). The other type are made in the UK and can be identified by their wires to the commutator which are exposed. These will retail for about £80 and don't need fettling. If you buy a new armature make sure you don't pay UK price for a Chinese product. There are a few rascals out there in ebayland ripping us off. Having said all that the supply of Chinese ones has dried up recently but some traders will have old stock. If you click on Muskrat's link in the above post you'll see a UK made armature.