Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 10
As we've had Monoblocs for many decades  if holding down the tickler was an issue then it would be widely known by now.
Newer versions of the Mono seem to have shorter tickler "shafts" than older ones, so it will appear that tickling takes longer.
Gearbox, Clutch, Primary / Re: Chain clearance
« Last post by TimK on Today at 05:30 »

I have checked the chain, it’s a standard chain, so no movement there.

Cheers Craig

Hi Craig
Although you say the chain is standard, modern standard chains are a lot wider than ones made 60+ years ago even if they're not fitted with O rings. Renolds make a Classic chain that is suited to the limited space available around the final drive sprocket on an A10. See if a local friendly shop will let you measure one which you can then compare with your current chain.
Frame / Re: Top Fork Yoke
« Last post by berger on Today at 04:25 »
i went out Oout yes to the pub  *countdown*, i had my stuff stoved then found out. so took the whole lot to work and benched it  then had to weld 3  3/8ths whit studs onto a 1inch plate then put good owd made in england thick spreader washers onto the top yoke and get it hotter than Mc hot and pull the nuts down on the studs and watch it say thankyou when it's cooled down. the downside was the black stove was toast so i got some red instead or is it orange ? don't know i'm stupid as well as colour blind  but the upside is i can let go of the bars and she behaves very well if i built her with the black stove on and took my hands off i would be toast. thankyou for listening have a nice day . *beer*
Frame / Re: Top Fork Yoke
« Last post by Jules on Today at 02:43 »
I agree with you Berger, my (basket case) bike had bent yokes and forks but I didn't realise about the yokes until I tried assembling the straightened legs - the problem will be be finding "good" yokes, if I put my old ones on Ebay you wouldn't know until you tried assembling everything!
At the time I picked up a pair of good yokes from the forum which were for late plunger, so I've had to modify the stop arrangement to suit the s/a model.....
What a plonker, having spent hours tracing my short, resoldering connections, finally discovered the problem, I had a pigy back connector on the earth terminal on the battery but mistakely reconnected the earth lead to the DV2R to power feed on the battery. No more sparks when connecting up the battery, everything now works fine, thanks to everybody who offered advice.
Another slight issue the tickler on my fairly new Amal Monobloc is very slow to exit fuel, seems to take ages holding the button down before fuel wets my finger?

Tickler doubles as a float chamber vent (air has to come out to let fuel in), just a thought but if you push the tickler all the way down, maybe the vent can’t do its job?
Frame / Re: Top Fork Yoke
« Last post by Russ on 14.06. 2024 23:58 »
Yes I will replace the yoke with a correct, unmolested, one. As suggested I will bolt up the stanchions and check alignment.
Yep Worty, 15 years but I feel much better now that MikPowl has taken 40 years.
Thanks for your help,
Cheers Russ
Forum Info, Rules & Help / Re: Unable to access forum via android
« Last post by Caretaker on 14.06. 2024 22:02 »
My suspicions were 'something' on the forum server side, blocking legitimate connections, happened during a few periods in the past, long time ago.

Seems all is well now, plain sailing ahead.
At least you found it.  I know how easy these things are, I hit a bump towing and one rear light went out.  Next day I found a bullet connector un-plugged (is a 60 year old Army trailer) so I plugged it back where "it obviously went".  Well it didn't and 2 hours later after downloading the whole wring diagram and lying under the trailer with a multi-meter I finally got it fixed.  I plugged one wire in wrong but when I "corrected" my mistake I actually moved a different wire so I had 2 faults, after that it was hopeless. *problem*
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: gaskets - make or buy?
« Last post by muskrat on 14.06. 2024 21:15 »
G'day Jules.
I buy rolls of the stuff 0.4 & 0.8mm 1m wide x ?m. Can't remember where I got it (lasts me years) but think it was AutoPro or Supercheap.
The large bits (primary etc) makes all the small bits (rocker covers etc). I use Permatex #3 Aviation Form a gasket on both sides and gaskets can be reused and clean up with carb clean. A bought kit is used as templates, well over 10 years since I bought one.
After marking out always punch holes first then the inner and outer last. Craft knife or scissors with a steady (at least 2 beers) hand!
If a template is not at hand I punch a hole, put on item with a bolt/screw and find a second hole and punch out and replace with another bolt/screw then ball peen hammer to get the inner and outer.
Gearbox, Clutch, Primary / Re: Chain clearance
« Last post by muskrat on 14.06. 2024 20:24 »
G'day Craig.
To get to the sprocket nut the primary has to come off (clutch, chain, outer & inner cover). While it's all off check the motor/gearbox alignment as when adjusting the primary chain the g/box can be twisted in the plates (the adjuster pulls on one side and can cock it off). Throw the clutch on and use a straight edge between engine sprocket and clutch chain wheel. To get it perfect you may need to loosen the engine mounts as well. Once it all lines up and mounting bolts are tight check it again with the straight edge. Once satisfied rip the clutch back off and install the inner primary. How is the clearance now?
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 10