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Frame / Re: Swinging arm play
« Last post by CheeserBeezer on Today at 16:50 »
It is possible to convert to a traditional bush design but, obviously, you'd need to get your hands on a lathe and/or somebody who knows how to work one. I have converted at least 6 A10 swinging arms to bush design. One such A10 has just completed 10,000 miles with the bush conversion and shows no sign of wear.
When you examine the original silentbloc bush, particularly on the cross-over shaft models, there just doesn't seem to be enough rubber to accommodate the amount of movement the swinging arm requires to move its full travel.
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Frame / Re: Swinging arm play
« Last post by RichardL on Today at 13:53 »
In some fairness to the design, I don’t believe BSA was negligent in not recognizing that some old farts would be trying to keep their A7s and A10s on the road and in good condition some 70 years later.

Richard L.
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Frame / Re: Swinging arm play
« Last post by RichardL on Today at 13:34 »
Some thoughts on the washer idea. First, regarding my own bodgery, when I used a jack screw in an attempt to spread my A7 frame to accept the dynamo shroud, the frame fractured at the bottom crossmember. Then,  if you manage to install two washers, it seems they would be too thin to hold up to the pressure from the tube ends and you’re back where you started from, or the washers become the friction surfaces against the swingarm’s outer cross-tube. If you install just one thicker washer to withstand the force from the inner tube, the existing wear on the opposite side negates the solution or leads to outer-tube friction on that end.

Swarfy left out “ridiculously” in front of “flawed design.” So, here’s the solution, short of the needle bearings or reconditioning the frame ears and installing new silentblocs……………..(uuuuh, I dunno).

Richard L.
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Stephen, I have the same problem, as I usually work alone, so I set the rear chain at 1-1/2". Sofar OK.  Col
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G'day Fellas.
On Saturday I went to the Casper Rally at Abercrombie River. I rode the old girl a couple of years ago and won a trophy for oldest combined bike & rider. The weather looked like shite and I had to go down & back as I work Sunday. The rHonda got the nod. It's only 150Km each way but the wet back roads can be a challenge, especially at my speeds  *whistle*. I got there about midday and had a few beers with the Wobbly Boot Tourers. Not as cold as last year of MINUS 11C. My club turned up at about 3pm so had a couple with them before I had to head for the shed. I probably shouldn't have stopped for two more at Oberon so the last 20 minutes was in the dark (wallaby & wombat time). Note to self, needs more sparkles in the headlight.
So I survived another one. My clubs Winter Rally in two weeks (should be minus C by then) then the Hat rally two weeks after that at Araluen. This is the first winter I've had heated gloves, luv'em.
Cheers
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Frame / Re: Swinging arm play
« Last post by Swarfcut on Today at 09:07 »
 Sadly this is another aspect of this flawed design, where the inner sleeve of the silentbloc bearing is retained in place by the small area of the tube pressing on the frame cheek. Internal corrosion works better to anchor it to the through spindle, which is bolted to the frame. But then controlled destruction is required to dismantle the assembly.....
  For now use a homespun screw jack to spread the frame slightly to slip in a washer, the extra force from the frame cheeks when removed may be just enough to add extra grip to the bearing inner sleeves before the nut is tightened. Divergent
views on the position of the S/A for tightening, so have a read of previous posts and make a choice.

Swarfy.
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Many Thhanks Swarfy .
I struggled on My Own yesterday with the final drive chain ..on centre stand I left around 1 3/4" play ..not easy to tell through the rubber bung in the fully enclosed case ..gave it a good dowsing of chain lubricant also .

I dont know what the tension will be like off the stand with riders weight yet ?
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 The real primary chain tensioner is only found on the plunger engine. The item referred to here is better described as an adjustable gearbox anchor, and as in Col's note above is set to prevent the gearbox creeping backwards and tightening the primary chain under the influence of the final drive chain, Newton's Third Law an' all.

 Final drive chain best set with rider seated, feet off ground to mimic usual loaded ride height as chain tension varies with suspension travel. Too tight saps power, too loose gives lash on over run, so aim for something sensible in between rather than trying for ultimate workshop spec.

Swarfy. .
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Thank You .
Ive adjusted the chain this way ..I suppose it is obvious but I had never been certain how to measure the tension correctly .
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A7 & A10 Engine / MOVED: What's this?
« Last post by a10 gf on 21.06. 2026 20:14 »
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