Recent Posts

1

Gearbox, Clutch, Primary / 4 spring clutch shroud (swinging arm)

« Last post by Craigy on Today at 06:34 »

Hi guys,

Sorry if this has been asked before.

The shroud that is spot welded onto the clutch has come adrift. Ive checked the parts book and it’s not listed.

Ive been told this part is not. Required but better for it to be in place.

It requires the clutch to be removed as it requires welding back in place - removal and welding are both beyond me.

Does anyone have any info on this? What job the shroud does and what are the implications of it not being in place.

I’ve provided pics for reference.

Many thanks

Craig

2

Introductions, Stories, Meetings & Pictures / Re: What have you done with your bike/s today?

« Last post by Joolstacho on Today at 03:28 »

Oh he who's name must ne're be uttered...."Frankenstein"? I must be the only one who doesn't get it.
(It's ALIVE!... It's ALIVE!)

3

Amal, Carburation / Re: Which carburettor

« Last post by Slymo on Today at 02:41 »

Monobloc is the right look and is generally an excellent carb. They are prone to wear but a hard anodized slide largely sorts that. Easy to tune all the parts are available.

4

A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Baffled, confused and covered in oil!!!!!!

« Last post by berger on Today at 02:33 »

i went to the pub  breather timing or cork not working , these engines running with one ring wouldn't chuck oil out of the breather as you describe it. send it to me down the river on a biscuit and hope it floats  now there's a thing a re lined bore with sleeves - maybe the problem , gaps and spacers hit and miss liners?  ok i am going to bed

5

Introductions, Stories, Meetings & Pictures / Re: What have you done with your bike/s today?

« Last post by Macbeth on 18.04. 2024 21:19 »

G'day Mac.
And it filmed it's own escape 
Cheers

Should see the Vid ! Pretty violent  I managed to resuscitate it 100% though. You can get lenses on Ebay but its now Frankenstein

6

Introductions, Stories, Meetings & Pictures / Re: What have you done with your bike/s today?

« Last post by muskrat on 18.04. 2024 20:36 »

G'day Mac.
And it filmed it's own escape 
Cheers

7

A7 & A10 Engine / Re: First service

« Last post by jhg1958 on 18.04. 2024 18:18 »

Well after reading the advice here I took the plunge and decided to tighten down the head even though there was sign of leaking.  I have an oil leak on one of the rocker spindle feeds.  The thread is dodgy as some ham fisted PO has over tightened it and damage the thread. I bought a spare rocker cover C/W spindles when I realised this, but too late to change it over so I just tightened it as much as possible - it leaked. Not sure I was too tempted to buy one form SRM at £70 each.

Anyway, I was looking for torque setting for the head bolts and of course BSA did not provide any (bless em). A quick internet search suggested 30 to 35 ft/lbs.  I paid someone I could rely on for the engine block to be refurbished and assembled, so I do not know what he used.  I decided to check the torque on one bolt raising the torque wrench settings until I got some movement.  This was at 22 ft/lbs.  I set to work on the rest tightening them down to 22ft/lbs. Three of the bolts were already at or higher than this torque, the rest moved no more than 1/8 turn.

Should I go back and tighten them down to a higher torque?  I am always concerned about stripping the bolts out of the block and what a disaster that would be.

Just waiting on a pushrod comb to help return the rocker box in the right place.

Would it be possible to helicoil the rocker box spindle? It is into steel so not an easy task.  If so any recommendations?  I was unhappy about the replacement spindle it has obviously been standing somewhere damp.

John
     

8

A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Baffled, confused and covered in oil!!!!!!

« Last post by bikerboy on 18.04. 2024 18:03 »

Poor sealing of the rings is a recipe for blow by and crankcase compression
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I agree and I am going to take the pistons and the bore in to be measured up but if the bores or rings were faulty I would expect the cylinder head to show signs of burning any oil that got past the rings. The inlet valves are the perfect straw colour with the exhaust valves being a fair bit darker which is exactly what a lovely cylinder head and valves should look like. I will add it does not smoke AT ALL even when oil is pumping out of the breather. Compression test is fine, new pistons and a relined bore. I do have a leakdown tester which I will put on it but I will be honest I find it hard to believe its the bore.

Thanks for your suggestion tho because sooner or later this fault will be exposed I am just gutted it has taken so damned long 

9

A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Baffled, confused and covered in oil!!!!!!

« Last post by Swarfcut on 18.04. 2024 17:29 »

 Somewhere in the previous posts mention was made of the pistons and bores. Poor sealing of the rings is a recipe for blow by and crankcase compression,(though whether this would cause a continuous flow of oil from the breather) and could be a contributing factor. My earlier thoughts on the pick up pipe hold true, it gave me the same symptoms. If the motor is built up again and still plays up, try it without the tappet covers. With no crankcase pressure (and normal oil return) that would point to the problem being related to the pistons rather than the lubrication system.

 Pass me another straw to clutch......

 Swarfy.

10

A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Baffled, confused and covered in oil!!!!!!

« Last post by bikerboy on 18.04. 2024 15:44 »

Right I resume the saga of the plunger A10 

Oil pumps back from testing (I sent two off) apparently they were both working absolutely fine.

Scavenge feed removed and checked out, blow one way and it seals blow the other and it is as clear as a bell. All oilways blown out and where possible something poked thru to check they are all clear. I did think of taking the sludge trap back out for a look but cant see the point. IMO the problem must be on the scavenge side so if any feed pipes were blocked then the sump would not fill up anyway.

Poked a bit of 14/030 cable up the scavenge pipes to see if there was any obstruction all seems clear.

I have extended the breather pipe from the crankcase so that at least I can get a tube on it and save myself coating the back end of the bike in oil again. I was thinking of putting a tube on the breather and taking it to a clear bottle of some type so that I can keep my eye on it while I try it.

Any other suggestions before I bolt it together AGAIN?

If it still pumps out oil I will put it back in the garage for a year or two as I have enough other projects that are not driving me insane to get on with. Meanwhile I will keep my eyes open at the jumbles for a set of plunger crankcases purely because I cannot think of anything else that it might be.