Recent Posts

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Amazing bike. I absolutely love it! Wondering how you get to the storage in the panniers.

Same front hub as my '55 including the chrome. Some may not go for it but I think it adds a lot. One thing I see while looking at that hub is the angle of the brake arm. Seems to be at the fully engaged angle rather than at rest. Could be the fit of the shoes in the drum or the indexing of the lever on the fulcrum pin. 

Never rode a plunger, so, jealous of the experience.

Richard L.
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Introductions, Stories & Pictures / Re: Finally getting started
« Last post by trevinoz on 10.08. 2020 23:43 »
It would be a much nicer engine with dynamic balancing but it is your choice.
On the rod weight, if you are going to correct the difference, you have to determine which end is heavy.
Suspend the rod and weigh each end and you should get a result.
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Introductions, Stories & Pictures / Finally getting started
« Last post by Superflash on 10.08. 2020 23:16 »
Well after 12 months of collecting parts and some semblance of knowing what I’m doing, it’s time to start getting into it.
So far, I’ve had the cylinders bored to 0.060 over with new JP piston set. I have, on advice received on the forum here, discarded the JP rings and replaced them with Hamilton’s.
Next up, got the cases, crank and cam back from the machinist’s who’ve done a pretty good job of line-boring all the new bushes. So, big shout out to Wynnum Engine Reconditioner’s here in Brisbane. While they were at it, the crank was ground to 0.20” under, so still a bit of life left in it yet.
The head has had a bit of a tickle up with new valves, guides, springs and hardware. All lapped in and ready to go. This time I even managed to get the right valves in the right holes….didn’t know about the magnetic inlet valve thing…so again, much knowledge learnt via the forum here. Amazingly, the rocker box and all the internals were in pretty good nick, so just a cleanup required.
Today I set the end float on the crank. The method used might be a bit primitive, but I’m hoping the result is more or less in line with what you’d expect using a dial gauge etc. All I did was hose clamp a small angle onto the cush spline. Through the angle is a bolt and 2 nuts. Push crank all the way over to the timing side. Offer up the bolt to touch the inside of the primary case and lock it. Then push the crank back over to the drive side and measure the gap between primary case and bolt with feeler gauge. The gap I got was 0.00787”. So by my reckoning, a 0.005” shim ought to get me into the zone…..yes?
While I was busy congratulating myself, I had a thought about a fairly long thread here discussing the joys of balancing cranks, rods and pistons etc. So out of mild interest, I chucked the rods onto the wife’s kitchen scales, and discovered that the RH rod is 7g heavier than the LH one. Given I won’t be racing the old girl, or even going for long meandering rides through the outback, is this difference likely to be a major drama further down the line?
I guess depending on opinions, thoughts, and warnings received, I’ll hold off attaching the rods to the crank.
One other thing that has been bugging me….what’s the best cement or similar to seal in the oil pick up pipe that goes to the sump?
Will post pictures once I sort my stupid camera out…
Cheers,
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Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Last post by RDfella on 10.08. 2020 22:01 »
Yup, I understand science. Does anyone have the data and test figures to back up this power increase assertion?
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Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Last post by KeithJ on 10.08. 2020 21:16 »
I would doubt a cluster of sparks would increase power by a measurable amount, never mind significantly. Might ensure more complete combustion with today's weak mixtures (which I believe was the purpose) but unless the combustion chamber is an awful design, can't see what difference it'd make with normal fuel / air ratio. As for reduced spark gap for magnetos, it may slightly reduce performance, but then if you can't start it there's zero performance. Again, I believe the purpose was to ensure a more reliable start, given a magneto's weak spark, especially at kick-starting revs.

Just going on from what  BSA_54A10 said on an earlier post:

A customer fitted one to his T100 and found it to be overheating due to running lean.
HE also found a big increase in Hp to the point that the clutch could not cope.
Now this was not a std bike as he was into Vintage Moto Cross & Trials so lots of revs with little cooling breeze
HE converted about a dozen more and the singles did not seem to have the same problem but he went up a jet size or two right from the start.

So still don't understand?


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G'day Fellas.
After going to the dentist and getting my last 3 bottom teef dug out I needed something to take my mind off it.
I made up an adjustable fuel tank stand to be able to run a bike without the tank on. A lot better than a piece of hose and funnel. Just an old plastic tank off a Chinese mini bike. Height adjustable for a bike on the ground or up on the bench and portable. Also a brass fitting to attach either 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8 hose depending on the bike.
The wife got a new blender so everything I eat for the next 4 to 6 weeks will go through that before I get a bottom plate. Good job I luv porridge in the morning.
Cheers
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Nothing prevented me from working on my bike today!!!!  *smile* *whistle* All cleaned, oils checked, tyres pumped up, ready for the road!!  Let's hope nothing else comes along to thwart my good humour. *pull hair out* *pull hair out*
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Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: Possible short circuit
« Last post by Swarfcut on 10.08. 2020 19:56 »
Quite correct GB.  With the battery disconnected and everything turned off there should be no continuity into the loom. If there is, something is conducting when it shouldn't. The multimeter is reading a circuit through the  loom, via a faulty component, to earth.

 B B  With the horn disconnected, continuity across the battery terminals is not what you are measuring. You are measuring battery voltage. If reconnecting the horn drops this reading  then the horn is taking power when it should not and you have found your problem.

 Swarfy.
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Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: BSA A10 ignition
« Last post by RDfella on 10.08. 2020 19:34 »
I would doubt a cluster of sparks would increase power by a measurable amount, never mind significantly. Might ensure more complete combustion with today's weak mixtures (which I believe was the purpose) but unless the combustion chamber is an awful design, can't see what difference it'd make with normal fuel / air ratio. As for reduced spark gap for magnetos, it may slightly reduce performance, but then if you can't start it there's zero performance. Again, I believe the purpose was to ensure a more reliable start, given a magneto's weak spark, especially at kick-starting revs.
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Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: Possible short circuit
« Last post by Greybeard on 10.08. 2020 19:30 »
I don't know if we are dealing with semantics or misreading the multimeter but measuring into the bike wiring, (battery disconnected) there should be no continuity; meaning, we do not want to see a circuit. A circuit when nothing is turned on will drain the battery.

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