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Frame / Re: A10 polychromatic beige paint
« Last post by Sluggo on Today at 09:04 »
Just my 2 centavo here, But its pointless to try and replicate the factory original finish.  First of all we are talking paint products that are no longer in production, and very outdated ones at that. I cant speak for the rest of the world, But here in the MAGA USA, In many jurisdictions, Using old lacquer products will get you a sizable fine and selling those paint products is very illegal.  EPA-Environmental Protection Agency, DEQ- Dept of Environmental Quality as well as regional agencies investigate and prosecute.

Not to mention those old products are very polluting, they are also substandard to whats availible today.  I used to shoot old paint products like Lacquers and catalyzed Enamels.  They were very tempermental. Poor adhesion, Humidity, temp and air pressure all could result in Varying finish color, texture and quality.  Never mind the batch variables.   Not to mention not very durable, quick fading from UV rays, Poor resistance to fuels, oils and chemicals like brake fluids if juice brakes.

Very labor intensive as well.

My procedure is color match with a modern paint to a comparable color. (Be sure to check under different lighting)  Color match by chemistry and a skilled paint tech. ( I used to do collision repairs and paid for pro color matches by a technician that resembles a mad scientist in a lab.).  Or approximate a color that pleases you and purists and rivet counters be damned.

For example, My wifes 2004 Toyota Corolla SL is a pretty decent, although muted gold-beige color that I think is pretty decent match.

But,, Just had this conversation with several others on the topic of Matchless/Norton Candy apple reds.  (I have a Matchless G80CS, And several N15Cs & G15CS that all use this color, Painted a few BSAs- Unit A65 and B44 a darker Brandywine version.

I am a big fan of the US paint companies products called House of Kolor, Formerly owned by John Kosmoski.

They have a wide range of products, But if you want a color that has extreme depth and pizazz to it..The I recommend House of Kolor.  (I use a Valspar Poly clear thats extremely durable, incredible deep wet look to it)  HOK was bought out and is under Valspar now... but its a quality paint.

They make a base coat in colors,, but the true deep and rich stuff uses a tintable primer, and what color you pick can affect the final colors,, then a base coat,, often Gold, silver or select from the chart. Pick big flake/sparkle or small-fine flake then follow with the semi translucent color tint coat, Whether Candy Apple red,, Gold, Green, Blue or whatever you choose.

See: https://www.houseofkolor.com/homepage/
https://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/?ref=topnav

All the technical instruction you could ever hope for,, I have taken seminars and classes from the master himself.

https://www.houseofkolor.com/how-to/?ref=topnav
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A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Breather pipe
« Last post by Swarfcut on Today at 08:58 »
   Nice one, Trev, an even more versatile idea with plastic. Yup, that oil gets everywhere.

 Regards

 Swarfy.
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Frame / Re: A10 polychromatic beige paint
« Last post by BSA_54A10 on Today at 08:16 »

   You will never replicate the true factory colour, in fact the colour shade in production was rumoured to change by the day as successive differing batches were added to the paint storage vessels. Polycolours of this early type were in the hands of the sprayers, and because the final shade depended on the opacity of the top coat, two different sprayers would produce two different shades, depending on how heavy they were laying it on.

 
 Swarfy.

Only know 1 person who has owned an A10 from new.
Of the first batch of 20 that came into Burlings & Simmons showroom Ken told me there was only 2 bikes that were the same colour from the front to the rear.
One was in their window and the other Ken rode out the door after the tried to fob him off with a brand new bike that had 4 different shades of "Golden Beige".
The only 2 parts that were the same exact colour were the front & back guards but they were different to all of the other painted parts.
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A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Breather pipe
« Last post by BSA_54A10 on Today at 08:08 »
Hi Trevor,
That means that the OD of the copper tube must be exact. What diameter is the tube.? I have read somewhere on the Forum that it is "about" 8mm. Did you need to machine down the tube end.? I am re-assembling my Flash and want to fit a tube also.
Col

Long long time ago but I made up a nipple to fit into the hole very tight then used cheap pvc tube pushed over the nipple.
Had a copper tube fall out at near a ton, not pretty & took a month to get the stains out of the undies.
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A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Breather pipe
« Last post by Swarfcut on Today at 08:01 »
Col. Its just a copper tube in a hole. How they did it in the factory does not matter, all it needs to do is stay in the hole. So, on plunger engines sometimes the pipe ran down the back of the crankcase, secured by a P clip on the through crankcase stud. This meant all the  oil drips from the sump plate joined those from the breather. Some Plunger engines have a very small pipe which leads back, secured under the the part of the casting covering the chain, effectively dropping the drips on the chain to do some good. Originally the pipe was were sealed in, probably with some sort of varnish.  Dip in the glue, knock it in, bend, bolt, next....

 You just need some thin wall tube which fits nice and snug in the hole, sealing and securing with modern Loctite, even epoxy or cyanoacrylate glue will also be fine, if you want true perfection.

   Where it goes is up to you, but leading it down to the rear of the gearbox sprocket, to oil the inner side of the chain, is a good plan. Make sure it is well supported.

 The  excellent pictures above show attention to detail that I can only envy, so aim for something like that.

 Thinking about S/A motors I reckon most are just a hole....at least it stops the chain guard joint squeaking, and prevents rust....another masterpiece of cr*p design.

 Swarfy.
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I've not been on a long run for a while so I think a lot of the running is the short run use... I'll look around around for a 105 and carry it with and swap it out the return of the next long trip I do. I'll probably be dropping 2000ft in altitudes so no guarantee I'll get it right..whichever way, always a good excuse for a ride!
Many thanks
Guy
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A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Breather pipe
« Last post by Colsbeeza on Today at 07:39 »
Hi Trevor,
That means that the OD of the copper tube must be exact. What diameter is the tube.? I have read somewhere on the Forum that it is "about" 8mm. Did you need to machine down the tube end.? I am re-assembling my Flash and want to fit a tube also.
Col
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good to see you here Steve... finally!!!
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Hi Wazza, Yes doing the repairs yourself can leave you with a few $ to spend on goodies. My repairs were quite extensive. Tank, forks, toolbox, guards, rear shocks, exhausts and mufflers, headlight ears and more I can't think of at this time, got a brand new old stock genuine BSA tank. Oh yes I also replaced the wiring loom with a genuine cloth bound Lucas one. At my age I find I can't spend as much time in one go as I used to plus other things take up my time so the repairs were a long drawn out process. Over a year. The guards repairs alone cost $700 with out the cost of the tin bashing.
Cheers  Gerry
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Introductions, Stories & Pictures / Re: introduction
« Last post by WozzA on Today at 03:08 »
Quick reply...
The mag gears can go anywhere...  you'll adjust the timing on the mag from the other end..   https://www.britishonly.com/pdf/bsa/sectionA_BSAservicesheetno203.pdf
Welcome aboard..
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