Recent Posts

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21
Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Peculiar charging issue
« Last post by bikerbob on 22.05. 2019 15:42 »
I have a 1956 swinging arm A7 6volt system, dynamo overhauled about 18 months ago it has a toothed belt drive with DVR2 regulator and a Cyclon battery.   The last couple of times that I have been out the ammeter has been showing abnormal charging, regardless of wether the head lights are on or off or what speed you are doing 55mph or 5mph the ammeter will suddenly go from a slight charge to about 5-7 amp charge then seconds later go back to normal this happens suddenly the needle does not move gradually up or down but instantly. This is not normal and as I say it has just started recently up until then everything was normal riding with the lights on at anything over tickover you were charging slightly and on tickover with the headlight on you got a slight discharge. So anybody got any ideas as what is the cause of this sudden change.
22
Frame / Re: Frame numbers
« Last post by JulianS on 21.05. 2019 22:34 »
The factory supplied unstamped frames to dealers to replace damaged ones. The dealer was supposed to stamp the new frame with the origial number.

If he did stamp it he would use whatever stamps were in his tool kit and they might not have been the same size and font as the ones as used in the factory.
23
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Mystery (to me anyway) rocker box 45-2595
« Last post by Swarfcut on 21.05. 2019 21:34 »
Yes, it is from a FH Ariel Huntmaster, which is basically a standard A10 internally, with  different  outer castings to disguise the engine's BSA origin. A clever bit of corporate badge engineering to save the development costs on another in house brand. The timing covers fool a lot of folks, looking like A10, but being just slightly different enough not to fit an A10 crankcase. The rocker box is well worth using, saves a lot of anguish settling those pushrods.

 Swarfy.
24
Frame / Re: removing rear wheel bearings
« Last post by a10gf on 21.05. 2019 21:18 »
Read the section under the retainer picture, about heat\cold :O)

https://www.a7a10.net/BSA/rearwheel.htm
25
Frame / Re: removing rear wheel bearings
« Last post by Swarfcut on 21.05. 2019 21:10 »
Jon.. You just need a big hammer and a drift. The outer races are a press fit, and require a bit of a smack. Removing the wheel bearings usually involves destroying the bearing shell cover, so bear this in mind.

 The hub has a bearing retaining ring on each side. From memory these are identical and have a left hand thread, so first try the one within the splined end, undo with a bar across the slots, or in a bad case, two folks hammering in unison  on opposite sides  of the retainer slot will break the seal. The next problem is removing the bearing shell cover without damage. It just pushes on, but can be difficult to remove, so try a bit of heat, but once this is off, along with a felt washer and a small spacer, the bearing retainer is revealed. This will unscrew as before.

  The splined drive side bearing sits on a locating ring which positions this bearing positively within the hub. The other bearing outer race floats, so without the retaining rings, in theory pushing this bearing into the hub will push the drive side bearing out. With one bearing removed, the centre spacer will jiggle free, then the remaining bearing will knock out.

 Assemble the hub with your new bearings, spacer and the drive side bearing retainer tightened, put  the wheel into the frame and add the rear spindle, with all the spacers etc. Tighten the spindle as normal, check for free rotation. This will settle the other bearing. Remove the wheel and add the remaining retainer and the shell cover.

 If getting access to the bearings is difficult, or they refuse to come out, try an expanding masonry wall bolt through the bearing centre or weld a bar across the inner race, they are scrap anyway, to allow purchase by the drift.

 Early Swing Arm and Plunger hubs have the same bearings, so I am wondering why your other wheel did not fit.

 These bearings are not adjustable and even when brand new will have some play at the rim, a characteristic often not understood by a youthful vehicle tester. The original bearings were open, these days sealed bearings are a better choice.

 Swarfy.
26
Frame / Re: Frame numbers
« Last post by Rich on 21.05. 2019 21:09 »
Thanks that is where they are but only about 5mm
27
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Mystery (to me anyway) rocker box 45-2595
« Last post by TT John on 21.05. 2019 20:30 »
A lot of these were fitted by the lads, to make it easier to get the push rods in place, they were considered better than the BSA  rocker box for that reason.
28
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Breather pipe
« Last post by TT John on 21.05. 2019 20:25 »
Yes found it, it is the breather pipe, I managed to salvage one from another engine, just a push fit. curls round the crank case secure with a P clip at the bottom, with a very small hole in it which is intended to lubricate the chain. Thanks for the help lads.
Anyone going to the Open day at Mkt Harborough this weekend? If so I will see you there.


Regards TTJohn
29
Frame / removing rear wheel bearings
« Last post by jonny web on 21.05. 2019 20:02 »
Hi all,
i am wrestling with the crinkle hub at the mo, as the wheel supplied with the project was a later one with raised rivits and didnt fit. i have now got hold of a plunger crinkle hub and need to get the bearings out, i have it in mind to make up an expanding extractor but thought i d ask if anyone has a simple way of doing it ? Why BSA didnt make the inner spacer free floating so one could slip it to one side slightly i dont know.
best
JW
30
Frame / Re: unidentified bracket
« Last post by jonny web on 21.05. 2019 19:59 »
Thanks for the info, still no idea what it is, but if its left over when i ve finished, then i don t need it !. I will dry build on the bench then strip down again and give it a coat of paint, then let cure for a while and rebuild in the garage
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