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got into the garage today got the crankcase split 3 spacer shims on the drive side breaking up all have concaved as some of you have said the drive sprocket not tight created end float .how tight should the drive side main bearing be on the crank bearing pulled out of the outer other issues found but will change the camshaft to worn for me to put back has a 357 cam fitted will fitting a 356 cam affect performance as I want bottom end grunt and easy starting more than top end .that's probably why two head gaskets were fitted .the cam followers have no where at all will they be ok with the new cam thanks
Frame / Re: Wheel and chain alignment
« Last post by BSAmoto on 26.02. 2020 12:29 »
When I check new (to me) bikes for proper alignment, I take timing- and primary cover off. The bike is pulled up with my chain lift so that the wheels still just touch the ground. With a spirit level I check both sides of engine for being dead vertical, if they are, I can check the rear wheel. If it is, I can check front wheel. If it is dead vertical, it must point straight forward. So now I put the straight edge on wooden blocks and check wheel alignment. Should be parallel and the same distance both sides.
The reality is quite different as many swingarms are bent a little, engines hanging croocked in the frame and wheels respoked with the wrong offset. Not to talk about bent frames/headstocks.
So where to start?
I check that the engine/gearbox is fitted correctly to the frame and not crooked in any direction, then get the chainline correct and have engine and rear wheel dead vertical, wheel parallel to the engine covers - thus the rear end should be fine.
When front wheel is in the middle of the forks, dead vertical, it must be pointing straight ahead - the straight edge will verify this when wheel is compared to the engine cases. If front wheel is vertical and parallel but offset to the rear wheel, the rear wheel is off the centerline. If front wheel is parallel but not vertical, frame/headstock/fork/yokes are bent.
Make sure you turn the wheels 180 degrees and do every measurement twice, write down your findings, add up and half them - this will be the correct measurement if the wheels were dead true.
Lots of fun bending frames back in shape - once I hung a featherbed on a tree stump and pulled with my chain lift locked to my van. Sometimes the framework needs time to get back in shape so I have to leave it overnight under tension. A stubborn Commando needed two nights...
Wanted & For Sale / Re: For sale, fork stanctions
« Last post by Billybream on 25.02. 2020 20:23 »
Just awaiting contact from another forum member, will give him first refusal, will contact you if it does not materialise
Nice that things are coming together. Post some photos of nice, new, shiny tools (or whatever important\useful the donations helped aquiring) :O)

ps, am seeing parts of UK under water, hoping no member is hit, if so let us know.
Services, Parts Suppliers, Manufacturers / Re: chroming
« Last post by Flashgreubon on 25.02. 2020 19:57 »
Hi to All,
I have been using Chomefix in Birmingham for both Chrome and Nickel, very good work for a very reasonable cost, they are excellent ar fixing/ preparing parts for plating.
For example: 17 parts for a 1948 modelU harley, some of them very big(primary cover, handlebars, air filter, speedo housing and many intricate parts for £750 incl vat and postage.
G'day Fellas.
Thanks again. It really does help.
Every day (100 times) I say "I used to have one of those"! With your help I am starting to get a few things back.
Deb and I just put a deposit on a house in Lithgow and should be in, in a few months. Looking forward to setting up the shed.
Wanted & For Sale / Re: For sale, fork stanctions
« Last post by nimrod650 on 25.02. 2020 19:35 »
hi are a10 stanchions still for sale would you post thanks
The latest donations, 88 usd transfered to Muskrat. Hoping all goes well down there !

Edit, found 30 $ more.

The Heavy Horses - Murder Ballads & Other Love Songs
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