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The groom has a a pensive look on his face.
 I reckon he's thinking, "crap, did I centre-pop the sludge trap plugs before I buttoned up the cases on the A10?"  ;)
I didn't have my A10 yet. I was riding my wife's Vespa 125cc.
A couple of years later I bought a non running 1939 Ariel Square 4. Eventually I got fed up with trying to get it running. I took 50 quid plus a running 1955 Plunger A10 for the Squariel.
Frame / Re: 7" front brake plate issue.
« Last post by Minto on Today at 19:17 »
Well got it apart again this morning to check further, I'm not sure how Musky and RDfella spotted it but they're both right, the plate is bent. Not across the face, that's straight enough checked with a straight edge in a multitude of different planes, but the central boss section is out, and not by much either, but the .25 mm (or whatever) in the centre is multiplied at the outer edge, and doubled again from one side to the other ( raise one side, the other lowers by an equal amount so a big discrepancy.
Anyway, what I've done is, file a tiny bit off the high side of the centre of the back plate then bias filed a washer, and placed the washer filed side to the plate between the central bearing collar and the brake plate, all of this remains static and just gets clamped together when the brake plate centre securing nut is done up.
It took a bit of trial and file on/off faffing but the brake plate now sits pretty much evenly on the drum and no longer locks up when the nuts are tightened properly.
The third pic is the washer in place on the hub.
The last two pics are for comparison, after and before.
So again, thank you all for the help, advice and eagle-eyed detective work.
Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: Poor starting when hot
« Last post by wortluck on Today at 18:38 »
Just to pick up this thread.

My Flash has become a pig to start when hot.  Fine when cold with no issues, but doesn't take too long to start spitting and backfiring on right hand pot.  Took 40 mins to get it started when I filled up, but then ran ok for the next 100m with a few spitting and hesitancy moments.  Was one moment when I thought it might pack up altogether, but it ran through it and I got home fine (didn't stop).  Am I in for a maggy rebuild (hasn't been done since I owned it and I don't know if it's ever been done)?  Earth brush looks fine, plugs and leads are fine - what do you all reckon?

One other quick question, what size are the front spindle clamp bolts and the mudguard studs on the lower fork leg.

Cheers all.
A7 46-50 Long Stroke / Re: Parts Needed
« Last post by Swarfcut on Today at 18:06 »
 Fido. A few thoughts about crank shims.

     Longstroke Crank has a drive side ball race BSA Part 67-1240. This is an Imperial size bearing,  Shaft 1 1/8", OD 2 13/16"  Width 13/16" The later roller type bearing is a different size, 30x62x16 mm. They are different shaft sizes but if considered necessary the shims from the later engine would just about do.  Longstroke shaft is 28.575mm, very slightly smaller than the later cranks and I can't see crank shims listed in the BSA  Longstoke parts section.
     Tightening the cush drive on a Longstroke locks the bearing against the crank as usual and as the bearing is a deep ball type, there is no float other than that manufactured tolerance within the bearing. So looks as if crank shimming is not required to the precision of the later design, featuring a single lipped roller bearing allowing float. Suggested limit before tightening everything up is 5-10 Thou (0.1-0.3mm) for the Longstroke crank.

 BSA missed a trick with the ball race design here, as there is nothing to hold the outer race into the crankcase other than the press fit. In other words friction and luck...The later design does not put sideways (axial) load on the outer race.

 Ball Race 67 1240 is omitted from BSA Service Sheets, so not readily cross referenced to commercial brands but from the size shown a replacement can be found if required.. C3 Grade usually used in this operating situation if a choice is offered.

 The pistons you have with a BSA stamp should also have reference number. There is a piston chart in the Longstroke Parts book, 1949, in the Forum Literature section and the piston can be identified. Thanks to JulianS for originally posting this valuable reference.

 Old stock  original rings are a better choice than their more modern copies.  Original Hepolite, COVMO  or Milemaster were the favoured brands when the bikes were in daily use and will fit straight from the pack. Ebay is a good source.

The groom has a a pensive look on his face.
 I reckon he's thinking, "crap, did I centre-pop the sludge trap plugs before I buttoned up the cases on the A10?"  ;)
Sorry took a while to write up the report either start with the FB here (you dont need an account) or read the full report here
Spelling and grammar errors are to be ignored  *fight*
I'll try to overcome my technical limitations and post more images this weekend.  I'll try this as a test run.
Chat, Offtopic, Meetings & Everything Else / Grandad Ives
« Last post by Greybeard on Today at 14:11 »
My paternal grandfather, Arthur Justin Ives. He was born to an unmarried mother in a workhouse in about 1880. His mother married a widower who already had older children. Arthur was bullied by these kids. Remember, to be illegitimate then was pretty dreadful. Arthur ran away from home and never returned. He joined the Royal Navy as a barefoot Able Seaman rating on a sailing ship. He set to work to improve himself; he learnt to read and then started studying and taking any courses he was offered. By 21 he had made the rank of Petty officer. To become an officer from a rating was very rare then; the normal route for officers was to buy a commission and go straight into that rank. Arthur served on many ships, I have his navy record here. He survived both World Wars and was invalided out in the late 1940s with supposedly Tuberculosis having reached the rank of Lt. Commander. He lived to be 99 years.
A7 46-50 Long Stroke / Re: Parts Needed
« Last post by Greybeard on Today at 12:50 »
Thanks for the replies. It looks like Draganfly sell gasket sets and rings. Not sure if I should buy any crankshaft shims as I won't know if I need them until I put it back together. Draganfly say something about the oil rings needing a modification to the piston to deepen the grooves. I'm wondering if these rings were used by the previous owner as they were seized in the grooves. The pistons have the piled arms punched in them so they are genuine BSA.
I'd buy the shims, they cannot cost very much. If you have them you will not need them. If you do not have them..... guess the next part. 😁
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