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Just had a similar problem on my A65 missing on tickover turned out to be a blocked pilot jet removed the jet cleaned and replaced now tickover perfect.
yes, certainly to add my gratitude to the forum and the generosity of the information shared here.. My bike runs a lot more than not as a result of the forum and I enjoy it a lot more than not!
Just been reading through this post and it certainly highlights the value of this forum when with a combination of a lot of help and in this case especially of Musky's and Swarfy's expertise it eventually led to the answer of someone's problem so far away.
Frame / Re: Swinging arm sidecar mounting
« Last post by RogerSB on 23.08. 2019 09:46 »
Roger, I asked Ben to not fit indicators.
Look at this video and you will see what it was like (regarding lights) when I got it back from Watsonian.
It's a lot different now though, I have fitted a rear light to match the bike.

Thanks for the link Roy, smashing looking outfit.
The GP Manx I'm looking at has the same style of mudguard and wheel as yours.
Did you find a source for the different light lenses to fit the light mountings on the mudguard yourself?
The front one looks like the Lucas side lights that were fitted to cars such as Morris 1000, A35, etc.
I would treat the carb to a good clean, pilot circuit could be the culprit, not an easy task on an Amal, once throughly clean would be best to add an inline fuel filter. Theres plenty of useful video's showing best methods to clean a carb.
Well done, you have achieved the impossible by my reckoning. Been there, (didn't) done that. Mine is still  gathering dust in the" too good to throw away but useless" spares box.


After Swarfy's advice, I managed to drill out what remained of the original idle crew on the donated Monobloc 376 / 5 and tapped a 10mm bolt in that I filed the end down as much as possible to match the original end of the idle crew.. not ideal, but cost next to nothing...I've been running it for a couple of weeks now and the plugs are a nice tan colour for the first time since I've been riding the thing.. Admittedly, its harder to start - or I haven't mastered the technique yet.. although seems to run well and that super rich smell of unburnt fuel from the exhausts seems to have abated.. I'll do a few long runs before the DGR next month and hopefully the fuel economy will be closer to 40mpg than the previous low 20's ( I need to check the accuracy of the odometer - the speedometer does work)
More as I discover more...

Frame / Re: Progressive fork springs
« Last post by Swarfcut on 23.08. 2019 07:46 »
Jim, This clatter is a bit of a strange one. Reading your first post  I thought you had conventional shrouds, with or without headlamp ears. These are firmly tied to the lower yoke by the pinch bolts and there is usually enough slack in the mounting hole to lift them up against the  top yoke before a final tighten. So there should be no movement here.

 Then  it turns out you have gaiters and exposed stanchions between the yokes. Some folks simply cut away the shroud above the mounting holes, but again the remains of the shroud are tightened against the lower yoke by the pinch bolt. Again there should be no movement or rattle.
  A further possibility is the top of the spring is covered by a shroud similar to a plunger rear suspension spring cup or S/A damper spring cover. This should be clamped against bottom of the lower yoke by the spring exerting pressure between the fork slider and the yoke, a gap here, with the bike on the stand, means the springs are too short for the legs. Too short a spring means the ride height is lower and suspension movement from rest (off the stand) is also less, with a tendency to bottom. Reading the post mentions a spacer, but in use even a short spring will be under tension to carry the weight of the bike, so no shroud movement. but the suspension will bottom easily.  Sounds like legs and springs don't match.  Top fork bush movement is detailed in Roger's post on setting up his forks. Homespun spacers made from a crudely cut length of steel tube were what we used to restore ride height to tired, shortened springs.

 My thoughts are to compare the spring length with published specs and the old springs, and also check the forks contain the correct amount of oil....too little and they will clang and bang as the the bottom of the leg hits the bottom of the slider, without the hydraulic cushion. I do not think the problem is the shroud itself, more a too short spring hitting the shroud after a large suspension rebound. A picture  of the set up would help.

 You would think simply changing the springs would not require new oilseal holders....If the spring diameter was wrong, what chance of other manufacturing errors?

Frame / Re: Swinging arm sidecar mounting
« Last post by RoyC on 23.08. 2019 06:56 »
Roger, I asked Ben to not fit indicators.

Look at this video and you will see what it was like (regarding lights) when I got it back from Watsonian.

It's a lot different now though, I have fitted a rear light to match the bike.
Frame / Re: Progressive fork springs
« Last post by RogerSB on 23.08. 2019 06:25 »
Jamie, For me the widgets worked a treat. It simply occupies the gap between oil seal and top of bush, if a good fit it will keep the bush firmly down on its seat in the fork leg while at the same time prevents (especially a badly fitting) oil seal from being displaced in the holder by the up and down movement of the stanchion.  My main reason initially for trying them (and thanks to Julian mentioning it in reply 10) was to dispense with the 'awkward to fit' circlips who's only job was to keep the bush down on it's seat.  I bought mine from Feked but unfortunately they were not a very good fit without time spent filing. Whether these from Dragonfly will be a better fit  *dunno*:-

I'm not familiar with gaiter set up, so of no help to you there, but I'm sure others here will come to the rescue.
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