Recent Posts

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31
Clutch, Primary, Gearbox / Re: Primary Chain/Sprocket Wear
« Last post by BagONails on 15.06. 2021 15:07 »
That capscrew is a spurious part. Original grubscrew is slotted Whitworth Thread Stud with a tit on the end to engage in a radial stop groove in the selector support rod.

 Good news about the casting, reassembly will get easier from now on. Reckon the hard part is over.

 Swarfy.
I'm pretty sure I can find a grubscrew that will be neater and suit/ stand modification. I'm loath to disturb anything there in case something moves tho...

I do hope you are right mate, the interesting bit will be how comparable all these replacement parts turn out to be, could be a whole new set of issues but I will try to not bother you too much!   *thanks*

Ian
32
Clutch, Primary, Gearbox / Re: Primary Chain/Sprocket Wear
« Last post by Swarfcut on 15.06. 2021 13:59 »
Ian. Lots on the Forum about the seal and their variance in quality and accuracy of manufacture. Once the snap ring comes off the seal can be levered out, and a new one can be replaced with a  smear of silicone or jointing compound.  The snap ring holds it all in place and as already  noted the ring needs to well seated in its groove. This is where a sealed bearing would offer a belt and braces solution to an annoying and hard to get to (without major dismantling) oil leak. All gearbox sprockets used with a seal interchange allowing a choice of final drive ratio. Downside is that the speedo will be no longer accurate, always assuming it was the right one to start with.

 That capscrew is a spurious part. Original grubscrew is slotted Whitworth Thread Stud with a tit on the end to engage in a radial stop groove in the selector support rod.

 Good news about the casting, reassembly will get easier from now on. Reckon the hard part is over.

 Swarfy.
33
Introductions, Member's Stories & Pictures / Re: MidlandsA10
« Last post by Greybeard on 15.06. 2021 13:26 »
Hi,  *welcome*
I presume you are located in the UK Midlands. So am I.
34
Introductions, Member's Stories & Pictures / MidlandsA10
« Last post by MidlandsA10 on 15.06. 2021 13:17 »
Gents (and ladies?),

Thought I ought to take the chance to introduce myself as I'm spending an increasing amount of time on here!

I cut my teeth on Bantams, and did a short 'weekend' apprenticeship with Rex Caunt around 2010.  I've since had and rebuilt a couple of japanese bikes (FZR600, ZXR750's etc).

During lockdown, I thought I'd tick off a British twin from the bucket list, so bought a '54 Plunger frame.  I've been slowly gathering parts, and along the way accidentally ended up with a '58 A10 Super Rocket frame and engine, which I have given to my Grandfather as a joint project.

The latest on the Plunger is as follows:

The frame/forks/plungers are away being painted.  The big end is being upgraded with thick flange cylinders and 8.5:1 pistons.  I plan to use a 356 camshaft with this.

We probably have a Rocket Gold Star project planned with the Road Rocket (sacrilege!) - but in my eyes, the top of the pyramid for styling.

Looking forward to sharing my progress.

Tom
35
Other BSAs, Other Bikes, Machinery & Tools / Re: Egli Vincent
« Last post by RDfella on 15.06. 2021 13:09 »
Original Vincents looked good (in my opinion) but not this one. Tank, stays, seat ........
36
Frame / Re: fork shroud gap
« Last post by RDfella on 15.06. 2021 13:04 »
When I fitted a Suzuki 750 front end to the project ('62 A10 S/A frame) I used the suzuki shrouds as well. Naturally, length did no co-operate and so I turned up a couple of spacers from black nylon. Hardly see them.
37
Amal, Carburation / Re: Odd running on a closed throttle
« Last post by BSA500 on 15.06. 2021 12:46 »
Update-pulled the carb and found the needle was bent at the tip(prob my fault) had a spare, also removed the washer that they supply with new gasket sets from under the petrol feed. Now she stumbles from idle and low speed running is lumpy, never used to do that. So I will put them back on(bent needle as well) and see what happens. Raised the needle and no improvement
38
Clutch, Primary, Gearbox / Re: Primary Chain/Sprocket Wear
« Last post by BagONails on 15.06. 2021 12:36 »
Swarfy, I am very grateful to you, there are many threads relating to various kickstart pinion/quadrant queries but nowhere have I found it laid out so succinctly, thank you and I'm sure this information will be useful to many of us in the future. (although it is possible I am the only Klutz on here who doesn't have all this down pat yet!)

My quadrant looks very much like an earlier (incorrect for my bike) flat topped tooth model and has the splined connection so 67-3178 per your table and therefore I should be able to fit the earlier pinion 67-3168 if I can find one. Photo attached shows the quadrant is in amazingly good nick considering the pinion it has been chewing through all this time, even more amazing is the fact I was blissfully unaware until opening the cover as the kick start was functioning very well!

You had me going there with that 'crack'. I have cleaned up the area in question now and donned my best "seeing glasses" and am relieved to report there is no crack present.  The line which had me worried I will grant you appears to be a pattern or moulding joint from original manufacture, I've attached another photo to set your mind at ease *smile*

The snap ring however has lost its snap and is well past its best (it virtually fell out when I started winkling with my screwdriver) I will try and find a replacement, also I guess I should renew the seal if it is possible to insert one from the back. I have resisted pulling the existing one out as it is offering resistance and I don't want to damage it until I know I can put a new one in from this side, it looks like I should be able to.

Once again very grateful for all the help from you guys on here it really is invaluable especially to a newb like me.
Cheers Ian
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Scotty ----------  annnnd all sing----------hold it flash bang wallop what a picture, what a picture what a photograph! 
40
Frame / Re: fork shroud gap
« Last post by RichardL on 15.06. 2021 11:59 »
I suspect they may close up a little more once the forks are installed and tightened up. 

I'm not envisioning a non-destructive mechanism by which the gap is closed when tightening the forks at the top yoke. With that small gap, you might be in the realm where you could elongate the pinch-bolt holes and relieve the bottom yoke slots to move up a bit (according to your own best judgement, of course). On the order of the O-ring recalled by Jules, maybe custom-turned washers with close-fit ID and OD would look pretty decent.

Richard L.
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