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Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Last post by tomkilde on 14.06. 2021 21:55 »
Thanks Bill.  I will try refurbishing my brass assembly first.  I found a source here in the US with NOS Lucas replacement points for a reasonable cost.  My biggest concern right now is getting the old parts out without damaging the backer plate - most of the tiny steel fasteners are completely seized and are not responding to penetrating oil.
Other BSAs, Other Bikes, Machinery & Tools / Re: Egli Vincent
« Last post by muskrat on 14.06. 2021 21:26 »
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Iron Head Plunger Engine Specs
« Last post by MidlandsA10 on 14.06. 2021 21:14 »
Thanks for that Swarfy - very informative.

I have a 356 I bought in a job-lot so I'll put that aside for this engine.  It's my first 'big' British bike (after having a Bantam D7 and some japanese bikes) and I'm a mere 25 years old so not too worried about something a little sporty - however more interested in reliability and the ability to cover long distances so a 356 is probably the best compromise.

As another stroke of luck, the crankshaft, cylinders, pistons and top end have all come out of a post DA10 7801 engine so it is thick flanged.  Useful to know about the studs though.

Unfortunately, there's a broken fin, and being pedantic I'm planning on getting this welded up and the barrels/head powdercoated before I put the new engine together.  I'll also put in new bearings and bushes where appropriate, but hoping I can get away without having to get it balanced.

On the plunger back in the days, after beeing sure all parts were in good shape (replacing whatever was needed) I spent quite some time fine tuning the springs for a completely even lift all around + finding out the right pressure slip vs easy to operate. ...& don't mind a dose of normal clutch assembly wooble.

At the end the old 6 spring system became perfect in every way. imo it's a good piece of engineering, just needs it's tlc. One of the absolutely best behaving parts on my bike.
Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Last post by groily on 14.06. 2021 20:01 »
Even the later so-called low-inertia steel ones are getting harder for parts, and the quality of replica bits has been up and down. I don't like them as much as the earlier style for the reasons I repeat below  . . . originally under Minto's post about 'Points, does this look right? (qv

If in your travels you come across a decent brass type, of the earlier generation, I'd grab it.
They are in many people's view 'better' for four reasons:
first, the opening point and spring are the LT earth side so a kiss (of the spring blade againt the cam-ring) doesn't kill the spark;
secondly, the double spring blade of the brass types is gentler in operation than the steel equivalent;
thirdly the points gap stays in adjustment longer (as a rule) for not relying on friction on sliding bits.
Fourthly, quite often, the contacts mate a lot more squarely too.
And a fifth plus point is that you get the option of an auxiliary earth brush on the back face, which can help reduce the dimpling at the firing points of the mag that is caused on the armature drive end brass piece by return current through the main earth brush.

 . . .

 It's also worth knowing that if you come across a decent BTH anti-clockwise backplate off, say, a KC2, that'll work very nicely too. Main dimensions are the same, the integral keyway that sets the internal timing is in the same place and the design is better too. New complete BTH assemblies can be had (Lindsley again) - but you need a mortgage. A Bosch set will also serve and is well made - but the keyway will probably need suppressing and reforming in the right place, or the camring repositioning.

I can't think of anything that makes me think differently this evening. The thing with the brass item is the state of the pivot post for the opening point, and the hole it goes through. The original pillar was supposed to be 0.185" (memory, which can fade so don't kill me if wrong!) but they're often pretty worn. Kits usd to be available to replace them, which is a fiddly business. Haven't seen the kits for a bit, but a replacement can be made if it must be, a fraction oversize if necessary to reclaim the opening point.
Contacts can be grafted onto the fixed and opening sides if necessary too. Silver solder job. Thus rebuilt, the brass ones can have their life extended indefinitely.

So, I'd try to keep what you have. Dave Lindsley Magnetos in the UK may have some points, certainly worth asking as his stuff usually is decent.

If going 'steel', it is apparently the case that Grove Classics, the UK Velo specialists, have taken on the production and supply of parts and replica points etc. If so, and if the QC is OK, could be an OK option.

In terms of performance, the steel assemblies will often provide a snappier opening and closing of the points which is helpful at very low rpm (due to the heavier spring rate), but overall I prefer the brass version on all the counts mentioned. For what it isn't worth!

Other BSAs, Other Bikes, Machinery & Tools / Re: Egli Vincent
« Last post by groily on 14.06. 2021 19:37 »
dunno about 'we' GB, but I do!
Other BSAs, Other Bikes, Machinery & Tools / Egli Vincent
« Last post by Greybeard on 14.06. 2021 19:29 »
On Sunday morning I attended a VMCC meeting. One of the bikes in the car park was this Egli Vincent. Do we like it?
Lucas, Electrical, Ignition / Re: Which EasyCap do I need?
« Last post by tomkilde on 14.06. 2021 19:20 »
Replacement parts for the "early" brass plate contact breaker assemblies are available but somewhat rare.  It seems like parts for the "late" steel plate assemblies are much easier to find, and I've also read that they are easier to adjust.  Rather than trying to restore it, I'm wondering if it might be worth the extra cost to replace my worn out, corroded old brass contact breaker assembly with a shiny new steel one.  Has anyone had experience with both and have a clear preference?
Clutch, Primary, Gearbox / Re: Is there a conversion for plunger clutch
« Last post by Rex on 14.06. 2021 18:59 »
After a lot of plate tweaking etc the clutch on my plunger is pretty sweet now. Nice feel and little/no crunching into gear.
Not as good as the Ariel or Scott, but pretty good for a BSA... ;)
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Iron Head Plunger Engine Specs
« Last post by Swarfcut on 14.06. 2021 17:46 »
 Tom.   356 Cam gives a good all round performance with flat top pistons. Hooligans choose the 357 cam with higher compressions, but this is maybe to be a bit too wild for a leisure ride and perhaps not such a good choice for the plunger frame's handling. I'd be more concerned about the stresses on old alloy conrods and prefer the smoother running 334 cam with dished top LC pistons. Higher compressions and that Spitfire/Rocket Cam certainly gives the performance but at the expense of smoothness and going down the full balance route will add to the costs. All depends on what you want.

 As ever, dismantle and clean out that big journal sludge trap, the centre tube comes out revealing even more filth. Bad cases may require the destruction of the tube, it can be a tenacious little devil.

 If your lucky enough to have found a thick flange barrel the crankcase studs will need to be changed for longer ones......

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