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91
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by Greybeard on 18.09. 2019 10:16 »
Has the magneto been serviced? A faulty condenser tends to fail when the bike is hot.
92
Clutch, Primary, Gearbox / Re: 4 or 6 spring clutch
« Last post by Bsareg on 18.09. 2019 09:58 »
I may be thick but still can't se where the relative motion is. Surely pressure plate and clutch centre are all on the driven side and,  even when the clutch is slipped, still locked together. Also the push rod is allowed to turn with the mainshaft by the bearing ball on the operating arm. I must be missing something somewhere. 
93
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by Klaus on 18.09. 2019 09:58 »
There is also a gacefilter in the top of the floatbowl, may be the is some dirt.

cheers Klaus
94
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: BSA A10 Breather Replacement - Advise
« Last post by ALPH1 on 18.09. 2019 09:33 »
Thanks Swarfy, John, Mustrat, duTch for all the great advise!

Swarfty --good sleuthing and think you have a very good point.
I may have been overly generous with cheap gasket seal due to the rocker cover oil leak and I was thinking some oil passage had become blocked and was contributing to or causing this issue. The oil was returning but did drop in level as it was loosing oil from the breather. The I topped it up a little.

So check list:
remove sump plate clean filter
I had the ball valve out but I'll check that again
place oil - verify quantity.. Was sure I had this right at 4 1/4 pints. will double check that for sure!
Blow out lines flow and return. I tipped this blue and red dots as never noted the marks before
Remove oil tank and clean all lines and filters.
Replace grease 1/2 LB is If im right.

Thanks Guys!

AL

   

   
95
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by Greybeard on 18.09. 2019 09:29 »
I once had a blocked tank cap vent. I was able to drive for a couple of k before the engine stopped. After a bit of fiddling the engine would start again and off I'd go for another short run. Rinse and repeat!
96
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by Swarfcut on 18.09. 2019 09:28 »
Ha....The curse of the A10 strikes again, frustrating your chance of stardom.

Ok, duTch is on the money here, anything that stops that fuel vapour getting to the inlet manifold is suspect, from a blocked tank breather, to a blocked main jet and anything in between. So start with the easy stuff, fuel taps, tank filters, float, needle. Establish fuel is getting to the carb, then move on to jets, internal drillings, sealing washers, correct assembly, air leaks. Good chance its the tank, recent enthusiastic riding has shaken up some sediment....taking the fuel taps out may reveal all! A couple of cheap in line fuel filters are worth fitting, and give visible indication of fuel supply.

Swarfy.















97
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by owain on 18.09. 2019 09:20 »
Possibly. I did remove the fuel cap to see if that remedied the problem whilst riding but no luck. Fuel lines also appear clear i.e. if I detached one and open the opposite fuel tap, petrol comes running out of the fuel lines. I'll give it a look...I'll also edit my grammar haha

I should also mention that I recently modified the exhaust with a mute, that would certainly increase exhaust back pressure but it's been running fine with it on for a week or so before this incident.
98
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by duTch on 18.09. 2019 09:07 »

 
Quote
...... I pulled over and checked the carbs, they looked pretty good, albeit a perhaps a tiny bit too lean.........

 
Quote
......... I pulled over, Tickled the carb until the float is flooded, engine starts straight away. Ride 800yds. Engine flutters and stops. Tickled the carb again, engine starts, ride another 800yds and repeat again.........

 How many carbs do you have, one, two or two into one *conf2* ?- I suspect  the first ^^quote^^ means two S-plugs....The first think that comes to mind is a blocked vent in the tank cap, and next that you're low on fuel or crap in the fuel lines/tank filter....other than that requires thought *dunno*
99
A7 & A10 Engine / Engine failure troubleshooting
« Last post by owain on 18.09. 2019 08:48 »
My A10 has been running well for the last few months and I've managed to put a lot of miles onto the newly built engine. However, yesterday it broke down on me in North Wales. To make matters worse it was whilst being filmed by ITV for a TV segment ;D. I ended up having to get my A10 loaded in the van and taken home.

Today I'm going to try and repair it but of course wondered whether anyone could shed some light on the symptoms to find the cause of the problem. In brief, I first started to notice the engine fluttering (i.e. not combusting) at when in top gear and at speed. I pulled over and checked the carb, they looked pretty good, albeit a perhaps a tiny bit too lean. Set off again. A few minutes later the motorcycle started fluttering but now at mid-speed (30-45mph). Dropped the speed and kept riding a little a few minutes longer but then the motorcycle fluttered and stopped combusting entirely. I pulled over, Tickled the carb until the float is flooded, engine starts straight away. Ride 800yds. Engine flutters and stops. Tickled the carb again, engine starts, ride another 800yds and repeat again.

My initial thought was that the engine is using fuel at a faster pace than it is replacing. So I knocked on a campsite receptions door and asked to borrow a socket set to remove the tank and get to the carb. I removed the carb it's float bowl, the main-jet holder had vibrated loose, so I tightened it back up, thinking I had found the problem but had the same symptoms. Eventually the distances I could travel after tickling the carb reduced more and more (600yds, then 400yds, then 200yds) until the engine wouldn't start at all.

Does anyone have any ideas about the possible cause of this problem? Thanks guys!
100
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: BSA A10 Breather Replacement - Advise
« Last post by Swarfcut on 18.09. 2019 08:43 »
Al, As a precaution I would remove the sump plate and clean the filter gauze, also check the little ball valve is free to move. Remove the oil tank and oil lines, clean and blow through. Be careful to reconnect the pipes correctly, the crankcase is marked F...Flow and R ....Return. Refill with the correct recommended quantity of fresh oil. Reading your first post would indicate to me that the scavenge side of the oil system is not working properly, or that the system is overfull. The first sign of this is a smoky exhaust, and oil being dumped through the breather. When running, the oil level in the tank should stay the same, or even rise slightly as the pump returns oil which accumulates in the engine sump. As mentioned, the dynamo chain is tensioned by slackening the dynamo strap and rotating the body. Pull the dynamo towards you to trap the cork sealing washer between the inner timing cover and dynamo, replace the grease as this is the only lubrication the chain gets.


Swarfy.
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