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Thanks all very much for your thoughts on this. When I get some time and a dry day, I have a few things to try.  I’m pretty sure that these bits of carbon have been the source of the problem, so a good proper clean out is next on the list, as well as undoing the carb adjustment, to put it back to how it was previously.
Thanks again, I’ll keep you posted.
My 1963 BSA model A65 left the factory on 23rd October 1962 dispatched to a dealer in Bristol Kings Motors but was not first registered until 24th June 1963.
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: More problems starting.
« Last post by lawnmowerman on 13.11. 2019 16:24 »
Now we are getting somewhere!
Before you remove the head it may be worth squirting a little thick oil down the faulty plug hole then try it again. If it improves then you know you may be looking at faulty rings / bore. If it does not improve then it points towards valves (bent?), head gasket and rocker clearances.
Valve timing should be ok if you are getting good compression on one cylinder.

A7 & A10 Engine / Re: More problems starting.
« Last post by AdrianJ on 13.11. 2019 16:06 »
Starting to get somewhere. Compression tester arrived.
LH cylinder 100psi, RH cylinder 20psi.
Got to find time now to get the head off and see what's happening.
I lost the nipple off the throttle cable a while ago, thought it came out the bell.
I'll find out early next week.
Welcome Owen

Nice looking rig you have there

Hours of fun

have always loved the look of the engines
Yes !
Welcome aboard.
Service Literature, Scans, Links, Documents / Re: What year is it?
« Last post by berger on 13.11. 2019 13:31 »
you only have to see the millions of cars and vans parked up in fields and storage compounds to disbelieve your getting a brand new one. you just get a brand new registration plate. some I have seen on a walk to the pub *beer* have been there over two years with thistles growing round them and bird droppings plus tree sap eating into the paint. this is a perfect example of production being turned into profit---- not
Hi All!

new to the forum and also new to A7/A10's although have always loved the look of the engines.

I am currently building a little A10 rigid chopper and need some help with sorting out my engine and gearbox parts, the bike is entered in a "build off" of sorts and I am rapidly running out of time.

Anyhow here's a pic of the mock up. It's an original rigid frame with semi unit A10 motor in bad shape. I have an alloy head I want to run (ideally if a complete A10 engine appeared in good condition in WA that would save some heart ache for me here)

anyhow thanks for letting me join and expect a fair few questions coming from me as I dive deep into the abyss.

Despite "nitpickers" and the small fact the "the kickstart cotter pin is on the wrong side" the gentleman who purchased it wasn't concerned.  Obviously not one of those 'for the greater good' kind of guys with more time on their hands enjoying their pension while we workers are still contributing and funding it! Not that it narked me you have to understand. ;-)
All Other Bikes (and machinery) / Re: Batteries
« Last post by KiwiGF on 13.11. 2019 11:23 »
I had an early series 2 diesel Land Rover for 12 years. It would start fine from cold but was a right dratsab when hot. The starter just refused to turn the engine over fast enough. The car had two huge 6v batteries, one under the passenger seat and one under the bonnet, (hood). I think the battery connecting leads and their connections were absorbing current. After I changed to one 12v battery starting was good.

I’d have a series Land Rover like a shot, but the wife hates them from when she was young and towed horse floats around with em as part of her job.

My impression of the early discovery like mine is that Land Rover seriously over stretched themselves when designing the wiring for abs, air bags aircon etc, the number of wires in the harnesses defies belief  *eek*

It doesn’t get used much nowadays and the battery drain issues are completely solved by disconnecting the battery when in its in the garage  *work*
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