G'day Brandis.
To add to that. Even though the crank is captive with the drive side bearing an thus no end float, the gap between the crank and timing side bush should still be kept to 1.5-3 thou". Any larger oil will escape that way instead of going to the big ends.
An old d/s bearing with the id ground out a few thou (so it slides on the crank) can be used to measure the end float and corrected with shims.
Cheers
The bearing inner grinding out might sound tricky, but I managed it using emery cloth, spinning the bearing in the lathe, very little metal needs to be removed. I cant remember if I fitted the new or old bearing outer ring in the case before doing the end float job, probably the new one?
It’s surprising how much of a clunk you get moving the crank sideways, even with the correct end float.