Author Topic: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket  (Read 1902 times)

Offline Harvey_Mushman

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Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« on: 01.05. 2025 18:15 »
Hello,
I hope someone can help me. I've just bought a BSA A10 Super Rocket and after only a very short ride it pumped all its oil out onto the ground.

I've found a small circular hole behind the primary drive case below the magneto that looks like it should have some sort of bolt or grommet in it but I can't find any information.

I've managed to take a photo of it as view from underneath from the left side of the bike.

I hope someone can help identify what is missing.

Thank you in advance.
60 A10 SR

Online Billybream

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #1 on: 01.05. 2025 19:15 »
It's the crankcase breather vent hole, some have a length of pipe to direct away from the engine, certainly do not blank off. Could be the timed breather cork not being compressed sufficiently, or the dreaded wet sump.
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Offline Harvey_Mushman

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #2 on: 01.05. 2025 19:41 »
Thank you very much for that.

I’m completely new to vintage bikes so please forgive me.

Where is the timed breather cork and what do I do to remedy the wet sump?

It wasn’t a trickle of oil, but managed to empty the full tank.
60 A10 SR

Offline a10 gf

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #3 on: 01.05. 2025 19:52 »
Welcome, a story & some pictures in the Introduction board ?

Diagrams of engine's 'inside' and much, much more > https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?board=17.0

The breather \ cork, see attachment.


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Online berger

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #4 on: 01.05. 2025 20:00 »
loads of these engines wet sump and throw oil out if they have been left standing for a while maybe yours is one of them.

Offline jhg1958

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #5 on: 01.05. 2025 20:42 »
It happened to me just a week ago.

See recent thread > https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=19559

John
1961 Golden Flash S/Arm

Online muskrat

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #6 on: 01.05. 2025 20:50 »
G'day HM  *welcome*
I thought that name was familiar, harvey mushman joined in 2016. Obviously not you.

A common mistake by newbys is looking in the oil tank an adding oil to bring it up to correct level. The problem is it has wet sumped and the extra oil is pumped in on top of the sump full. The scavenge side of the pump can't get rid of the excess quick enough so it's pumped out the breather.
Drop the sump plate to empty the sump (normally only a cup full remains in the sump), replace the plate and fill the tank. All should be good.
An easy way to check for wet sumping is to remove the sump plate and let drain for 15 minutes. Put an empty container under it and come back in a week. Report back.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Muskys Plunger A7

Offline RichardL

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #7 on: 01.05. 2025 20:51 »
Edit. Musky gave a good descriiption just before I posted this. As Berger noted, oil will be thown out of that hole (pretty agressivily)  if a substantial amount has drained down into the crackcase past a worn oil pump and leaky oil retaining ball, the condition known as "wet Sumping," exhaustively discussed in this forum. I assume you did not look into your oil tank before starting the engine. Had you, you might have discoverd no oil in it because it was all in the sump. Did you happen to notice any oil back in the tank after the oil-fountain event.? This said, I'm not throwing out the idea of the compressed or missing cork gasket, but wet sumping is the more common casue for this.

Richard L.


Online Colsbeeza

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #8 on: 02.05. 2025 00:24 »
Harvey,
 *welcome*
I would take Muskys advice first. Then if it continues, I would fit a drain plug in the sump plate (if not already there) to allow you to regularly drain the sump without removing the plate. You can purchase aftermarket sump plates with plug (magnetic preferred) installed. Long term fixes would be to strip the crankcase and reseat the non-return anti-drain ball, and then a new expensive oil pump if that doesn't stop wet sumping.
In the short term ride routine would be:
1. Check oil level in tank.
2. If below normal level, drain sump and return it to the oil tank if not contaminated. I drain mine through a rag over the funnel.
3. After starting, check oil is returning to the oil tank. If wetsumping is minimal, then after a short time the return oil flow should be intermittent because the pump return side is larger capacity than the supply side.
Cheers Col
1961 Golden Flash
1966 Lilac R92 500cc Magnum - (Sorry Japanese)
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Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Oil leak and hole BSA Super Rocket
« Reply #9 on: 02.05. 2025 08:35 »
  These old engines differ from modern designs in that they have a "dry sump", in other words unlike engines where the oil is in the sump, it constantly circulates  into the engine and back to the oil tank and there should be only a minimum of oil in the crankcase.

 But on standing for a while, there is a tendency for oil to drain down into the sump from the tank, so called wet sumping, and you are blessed indeed to have a motor which does not do this. Used daily the system can cope. Left for weeks, the tank will be empty, the oil now hiding in the sump. You top it up, next thing oil everwhere.

 Think of the system as two distinct parts...a conventional pressure side supplying the plain bearings, but also a "scavenge side" returning oil back from the sump to the oil tank. The clever bit is that the scavenge side has greater pumping capacity, so the sump in effect should always be more or less empty.

 The problems arise when the balance between these elements is upset, and on the Forum there is enough to read for weeks on how this has affected the health and well being of our esteemed members.

 To add to Musky's advice, while the sump plate is off you will see a small ball valve below the engine flywheel, which fits through the gauze in the sump plate. This valve is the start of the return side "Scavenge" system.

 Check that the ball is not stuck, is free to move up and down and treat it to a good dose of carb cleaner. A stuck ball  means the return side is effectively blocked, and the first thing to check  with no return to the tank. Common on engines left standing for a good while.

 The gauze obviously needs to be nice and clean, and with a new purchase I hope you don't find any assorted bits of metallic debris...the first sign of trouble. Failure to scavenge is another cause of "Baffled, confused and covered in oil", another topic to search on the Forum.

 With the engine running and good oil return to the tank, that's a sign that all is well, and a check that most of us make on every start up, a sort of good luck ritual. See Cols' post above, the flow does vary depending on the balance of the flow and return systems.

 You may also notice none of your modern spanners fit, neither do any modern metric fasteners. BSA use good old Whitworth, BSF and Cycle threads (CEI)

 Welcome along, your troubles are only just starting....

 Swarfy.